Clamps Reviews

Just bought two of the 98 inch k bodies on March 22, 2006, received on May 5, 2006 and was worried about them flexing, no problem at all. Anybody that ever clamped with any Bessey k body, knows how heavy duty they are and the great price from Toolcrib, plus a free 24 inch k body. The clamps are now shipping from Amazon warehouses, instead of Toolcrib's, so don't expect to have them in good shape the first time. When I first ordered them, I received two 82 inch k bodies instead, wrapped pretty good in four sheets of cardboard. Second time received two 98 inch k bodies well damaged, one in a 12 x 12 inch bubble wrap bag covering one end torn open, damage on the red end, missing the black plastic end piece and the other packaged what looks like a cereal box, crushed red end and also missing the black plastic end. The third time ordered, I was told I would be placed on the top of the order list, when the inventory for the Bessey 98 k bodies came in, not. Last ones received were ok, still had to use some parts from the other ones to make two good ones. By the way, the free 24 inch Bessey k body clamp was wrapped very well and was received on March 28, 2006 in excellent shape. When Amazon told me free shipping, they forgot to mention bad shipping.

I finally decided to invest in some good clamps so I checked the price at Lowes and was dismayed at the price. Then I found this set and that I could get all four clamps for less than the price of just the two large ones so I ordered the set. I had never had any really good clamps and figured there really couldn't be much difference between the cheap bar clamps that I had been using and the Besseys. Boy, was I wrong!. I have gotten so that I don't want to use the old clamps and will wait overnight to glue up doors or drawers so that these clamps are available.

I don't know how they compare to the other premium parallel jaw clamps, but I do know that I am saving up so that I can buy some more of these.

The Bessey K-Body clamps are superior for multi-board and cabinet door glue-ups by keeping the pieces flat. Wish I could have purchased the K-Body clamps instead of all the pipe clamps I own.

I've never encounted a tool that worked better or easier right out of the box with no experience required to start producing quality work. I've been involved in woodworking for over 35 years and never tried pocket screw joinery before. I'm sorry I waited so long.

This is a great tool even for a first time user. I made perfect strong joints fast and easy. The bit is good quality. I bought the tool after seeing it used in project in a recent Handyman Magazine. After using it(62 pocket screws)to build a bench with a shelf for boots & shoes I would highly recommend it.

I have read about several projects using this jig in The Family Handyman. Well, I finally found one that I wanted to build, so I bought the Pockethole jig. I drilled over fifty holes to join a few dozen joints and the jig performed as expected. I have never used a biscuit joiner or dowels (or any other joint technique, for that matter) so I really don't have anything else to compare to. It has seemed like a good purchase so far.

I have owned this saw for over 3 years now. It is a shame that I had paid the full introductory price when it had come out, but I wouldn't trade this saw for anything. I also own the complete 24V cordless line by Bosch. I own a small contractor buisness doing everything from kitchens, baths, additions, full house construction, to concrete work and everything in between. Not only is this saw worth it's weight in gold, but the entire 24V Bosch is worth the same. I can not write a good enough review for this item. It is so handy to set up and cut a few pieces of trim with such accuracy as my 12" Bosch Sliding Compound miter saw. In fact, I have found myself using this saw for just about every job, since I already have the case with my other cordless tools. I have trimmed out $750k houses with this saw, just set it up in every room that needs trimwork, hook it up to my shop vac and away I go with accurate miters. The only thing that I had wished this saw had was the dual compound feature, but I am used to turning crown over and cutting it the other way. The saw holds an accurate fence and the positive miter detents are right on! Again, it takes only 5 min. to pull the saw out, set it down, and begin cutting with no cords to drag around. It is the nearest replacement to a quality cordes miter saw you can ever have. I am truely convinced to forever puchase the old blue and red over the yellow and black any day. Bravo Bosch!

L. Long, L Squared Building and Excavating

well ive had this saw for a month now. i couldnt be happier i install kitchens and bath cabinets everyday and use it everyday, the battery lasted longer than i thought it would before i had to recharge it. its so light my helper dosent complain anymore about dragging the saw around. between this and the bosch cordless jigsaw and the nail gun i hardly have to plug in anything anymore i read some of the reviews before i bought this last saw most were favorable some wernt but for what i do its great i guess if i did trim all day i would want 2 batteries but thats the only down side

First let me say I am not a contractor I am a weekend warrior but I do like doing my own project work.
I bought this saw about 2 months ago because I had a project to build a double set of outside stairs. The nearest power was 1/4 mile away and I don't own a generator.
This saw is very good. I was suprised by it power. The stairs I built were completely made from green treated lumber. I was able to cut 2x12 stair treads with no problem. Yes I had to flip the wood over and yes the wood was still wet. I was amazed. I also bought the 24 volt circular saw. It too exceeded my expectation. I also own the Corded Dewalt 12 inch compound miter. This saw can't do everything the Dewalt can do but you can't expect it to. For what it is worth I have not found a job it can't do yet.
I would highly recommend this saw to any one.

Let me first say that like the K3 idea and I've had a K2000 for years and loved it. I like the idea of a single tool being utilized in two holders for both benchtop and portable work. It's also great that you can choose board thickness by just by a simple adjustment without having to remove or add parts.

Now, what I didn't care for was that the new benchtop system doesn't hold stock near as firmly as the K2000. This is true because I still have a 2000 and I've tested it because I thought it was odd that I could rock the material in the new K3 system benchtop system. The same stock (especially 1/2" material) was rock solid in the K2000. It's not enough to make the K3 unworkable, however it is enough that I noticed it right away. I wrote Kreg and they admitted that it doesn't hold the stock as firm but feel the other benefits outweight it. I'm glad I kept the old K2000 for benchtop work and use the K3 system like I did my old Rocket. In looking at the system, it became obvious to me why it doesn't hold stock quite as well - there is no lower support for the board and the face of the jig is now a polished aluminum instead of the glass re-inforced plastic which provides more friction. Additionally, the K2000 has a single ram which doesn't allow the clamp portion to move from side to side, where the K3 system does give a little.

I'm not down on the new tool, however this is a review of my experience and it defeats the purpose if I don't call it like I see it. If I had it to do again, I'd have remained perfectly happy with the K2000 and then just bought the K3 standard pack.

This is a great product, and you can get it, along with any other products on Amazon up to $500 Free! Participate in this special promotion and get a free $500 Amazon Gift Card at this web site: nocoststuff.biz/amazon

Drilling pilot holes is very easy with this jig. Now I need to find some clamps that will hold tightly enough the work to be attached.

I use a small 5-1/2" saw for my panel cutting and I purchased a 4' version a few years back and found it works great for cutting strait line. I have not used it for a clamp, but when building cabinet it has come in very useful, I would suggest also getting the Attachment guide for mounting the saw on. A good craftsman could build one, but the plastic one works great and has a good snug fit.

Made in USA makes a difference. This is not junk. It is a beautifully built piece of equipment that is very nice to work with. I think that says it all.

I needed to make 3/4 in dado cuts with my router along 8 feet of plywood. My 2 part straight edge deflected under this strain. This one part unit with the router base was a joy to work with. Each dado as straight as could be with no struggling at all. The router base unit needed some work, but the straight edge was great.

I ordered the 4-ft and 8-ft Tru-Grips to use as plywood cutting guides. I almost didn't order the 24" variety, thinking I wouldn't use it very much. But, I decided it might come in handy, so I ordered it.

My initial hesitation was well founded--I don't often reach for the 24" guide when I'm cutting plywood, as the 48" variety can handle smaller boards, and it's usually already out.

But I found an unexpected use for the 24" clamp: it is an excellent cutting guide for my Bandsaw. I have a 14" Ridgid, but I suspect if would work on any bandsaw table 24" and smaller. Clamps on and off in seconds, and has a grip that won't waver. I have no need for a fancy (expensive) fence system--this clamp works great.

I should also say that I love all my Tru-Grip clamps. I don't know how I would ever cut a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood without my 8-ft clamp.

Great job Tru-Grip!

This it a good straight edge, although it is hard to clamp down all the way to prevent a little movement. I called the company, and they sent me an extension to the handle which makes it easier to clamp down. They were quick with their response.

These clamps are great. I got this one, the 24 inch clamp and tool guide, and I also purchased the 48 inch (total 50 some inches) Pro guide with T Slots. I first saw the 24 inch clamp and tool on Norm Abrams New Yankee workshop, and he used them for a router edge guide. Then I saw him make a quick mortising jig, out of two of them for the router. These Griset clamps are a dream. They meet the criteria of being easy, quick, and accurate to set up and use. The list of possible uses is enourmous.
For example, I needed to trim the ends of some MDF. I used one of these clamps, with a square, grabbed the rear attaching brace, snugged it up to the rear of the piece, and then gave the front lever a push, and it easily clamped firmly to the piece. I took out my Bosch Jig Saw, and the guide was so accurate, that it enabled me to make a smooth cut. Finally I used a long board, with some medium grit, gave it a light sanding, and it was indistinguishable from the factory cut.
I find these to be so accurate, and easy to use, I could see a contractor using the 4 foot and 8 foot models to cut 4x8 sheets of plywood on the job.
I plan on buying more of these. I want to get another of the clamp and tool guide, so I can mate two of these up, for different operations, and I defintely want a pair of the back to back clamps for a quick way to secure pieces of sanding, and even gluing up.
It sounds expensive, for clamp and edge guides, when you think of buying several of them. Once you buy one or two, and start to use them, you will definitely be back for more.

I originally purchased the 4ft. Tru-Grip Pro to build a router table carcass and top. Once I mastered the efficient use of the tool, I found making deadon accurate square cuts quick and painless. I do not have the bases, but I don't really need them. I just use the edge of the tool for a fence, check square and offset for the operation and either saw off edges or route dados and rabbet cuts. It's a bit more of a pain to set up than my table saw, but the accuracy is spot on and for large pieces and panel crosscuts, this absolutely provides maximum utility for the cost.

The Tru Grip Pro FTR series is a first class product. The thing that is very important is that they grip well (you can adjust it) and they are very true and accurate when using the Stop, or Router Guide, or Saw guide. No wobble, no play, just tight, smooth, snag free accuracy.
When you consider the tools they replace, they are also a bargain. With a 4 foot and an 8 foot model, you can cut 4 x 8 sheets of plywood, without having to shell out twenty times the money for a panel cutter. If I was cutting plywood sheets all day long, of course the panel cutter has some setup advantages. For example you don't have to bother to use a square when cutting with a panel cutter. But for portability, and accurate use, the Tru Grip system can't be beat.
The pro series is a lot wider than their regular guide clamps, that is to allow for the mitre T slots on both sides. That way the accessories can ride along those tracks. Their regular guide clamps are great for doing dadoes with a router for example. Use two of them, and you have an instant routing guide.
The circular saw accessory is very accurate. You just drill holes in the plate, which is phenolic plastic, and mount your saw. Then you drop your saw down through the plate, giving you an extremely tight fit, which prevents tear out, when cutting through finish work. So you wind up dedicating a circular saw to it.
The stop piece is great for all sorts of uses, like when routing blind dadoes, or for making repeated cuts at a certain depth.
Having the 4' and the 8 foot model is convenient. Using an 8' for everything is not advised. The long overhang left by an 8' on a short piece of work is not easy to deal with.
I use the 8' when trimming door edges. How else can you run an 80 inch door through a machine in order to get an adjusted edge?
The router plate is already machined out with a circle in the middle that is oversize, so as to keep the bit at a maximum clearance for plunging. Once again, you drill it yourself to accomodate your specific router.
The router , saw, and stop accessories are premade to fit into the specific configuration on the edge of the guide, as well as the T slot, creating a very snug fit, with no play, yet not binding.
The days of finding a left over edge of a plywood sheet, then figuring out how to clamp it down, in order to cut larger sheets are over. This system is lightweight, made out of thick aluminum, which makes it substantial, yet a breeze to carry around.

The equipment it replaces, and the accurracy it creates in your work, make it well worth the price. Highly recommended.

Really helps cross cutting operations in a small shop, and when combined with one of the bases also available helps deliver repeatable, accurate results. What more do you need?

The big benefit to these is that you get true mobility out of them. While holding a piece of work, lined up, in one hand, you use these quick grips in the other hand to secure the work. If it slips while clamping, it is still a one handed tool to release it, and reclamp it again. Enables you to maintain a professional flow to your work. I feel awkward when using regular clamps in comparison. They require two hands. You could use a spring clamp to hold it together, then get another clamp to give it a final hold, but the quick grip saves you from having to do that.
Having these clamps in a few different sizes is beneficial as well. Small ones are more frequently used, and don't get in the way. The 33 1/2" is great when you need to hold larger projects together, and you can't effectively use two smaller ones to substitute. Additionally the macro clamps give you deeper jaws for a farther reach, enabling you to use them for securing work, to your radial arm saw table for example. They are fast enough to be used for almost any application. Sometimes I use them to secure work when sanding with a power sander. A couple squeezes and they are on, and one squeeze and they pop off.
After getting the smaller ones, and using them, I immediately order two of the 33 1/2" for larger projects, and for tie downs on equipment, including the drill press, and occasionally the radial arm saw.
Their is a small rubber stopper, which you can readily remove, in order to reverse the end, and make it a spreader as well. Something not needed very often, but difficult to achieve without one of these.
One note is that these have built in rubber pads, that completely cover the metal internal end. That is an advantage when you do not want to mar the wood. That and the fact that you can squeeze these with one hand, creates a mechanism that is easy to use, but not something that you would want to use for strength clamping. As a safety measure, these clamp sufficiently for most operations, but a threaded bar clamp, is stronger. So for those operations where extreme strength is needed, these are not the clamps to use. You sacrifice mountain holding strength for the ease of use. For example if I was using a large bit on the drill press, and drilling into metal, I would clamp it with something more. Even the slightest movement in an operation like that, could cause a snag, sending the piece into movement. If you are using just one of them, at the end of a 24" board, and decide to rout the other end, it will move on you. Securing it with two of them, and it is super tied down. You get my drift.
The big advantage of quick grip clamps, is that they handle wood beautifully, even for glue up operations. Hold workpieces more than securely to do the job in most applications, and are so handy that they deserve more than 5 stars. I would feel lost without them. It is another tool in the must have category.

This Quick-Grip Clamp exceeded my expectations with its ease of use, durability, and gripping power. A must for the workshop.

I use this to hold down an advanced watercooling system on my Geforce4. Bet ya never knew you could put it in a computer did ya! Highly recommended! These things ROCK!

These pads work great on Rockler "Surefoot" pipe clamps as well as the Pony clamps. One less thing to worry about during glue-ups.

I built a shed recently with a wide door to accomodate big tools. I made this door out of 2x6 tongue-and-groove decking boards, which I needed to clamp together to attach 2x4 bracing. So a pair of "Pony" clamp fixtures and a couple lengths of black pipe was just the ticket -- or almost. The decking boards needed a bit of persuasion to get all 9 planks together, and I didn't want to gouge the nice oak. Some cedar shims against the clamp pads promptly crumpled when I tightened the clamps. So I left the door until the next weekend and ordered these clamp pads.

Now I have a nice shed with a sturdy, attractive door on it. And no clamp marks!

Strongly recommended.

There is not much criteria one could comment on clamp pads. I have installed these on all my Jorgenson I-Bar clamps, and they (1) are non-marring and, (2) stay on the clamps very well. What more can one ask for?

while this jig may look a little complicated and unerving, don't be afraid of it. its really easy after you get it set up properly. its very precise so your table, router, fence, and mounting board must be as close to square as you can get. a lot of the templates deal with 1/4" material which is a little thin for me, but there are enough requiring 3/8-1/2" material to keep you occupied. have fun

If you are really, really serious about using a router table for dovetails, finger joints, and all the other milling operations that require high precision, you will want to own one of the Incra woodworking systems. My personal choice was the 'Super' system, which is an Ultra system like this in combination with the Incra Wonder Fence. The advantage to that model is the split fence, but it you aren't into turning your router table into a miniature joiner than this version will suit you fine for considerably less.

The heart of the system is the LS Positioner, which controls the fence from a rock solid center rather than from the ends as do most fence systems. The LS position locks into 1/32" increments, which can then be adjusted by 1000th's of an inch. This is more precision than a woodworker might ever need, but it is nice to have available. Also included as the Incra stop and the right angle fixture. With all of this mounted on the 28" fence you have a milling machine capable of exotic work.

The LS Positioner holds what Incra calls templets. These are plastic strips that come market with all the positions to cut a particular joint pattern. Something like sophisticated story sticks. There are places to keep five of these active on the Positioner - this is to minimize switching. I suppose the idea seems a bit corny, but Incra has bet their reputation on these templets, and they really do work.

Two notes of warning - Incra calls this a 16" jig, but the truth is that is takes nearly 30" of machine to give you that 16" cutting width. In all likelihood you will have to build an extension to your routing table. In my case I wound up adding 12 inches of draw. And you want this to be a solid extension, since the jig and fence weigh an appreciable amount. And the learning curve for a jig with this many adjustments is pretty steep (this isn't helped by a terse manual). Expect to do a bit of experimenting before you are getting the best results possible.

I have owned this fence / jig for about three weeks now and have used it to make several boxes and one case. It is simply great. Everything written about it is true - it is very stable and repeatable. I did purchase the new metal installation bracket that holds the system off of the back end of the router table (in order to free up additional room on the table and not give it up to the tool - download the owner's manual and look at the installation versus your router table to see what I'm talking about). In addition to reading through the manual, I also suggest that you purchase the intro video, which more simply walks you through the setup and usage of the tool. In short, well done Incra!