Clamps Reviews

Bessey clamps are great. They came undamaged. (It's hard to damage such a sturdy product anyway.) Packaging was pathetic, to say the least. It was "wrapped" and scotch taped in several small-disassembled Amazon.com boxes. Some Mickey Mouse work! Never seen anything like it. I love these clamps, though.

When I first saw these in clamps in use on Norm Abram's Yankee Workshop, they looked really nice, but you know he always has the newest, most expensive tools. I was hesitant to try them because of the price and the fact that I already had LOTS of clamps. I went to a local store and saw them and that was that.

Well, now that I have them, I don't even look for anything else. I just bought another set because I'm doing a whole kitchen and need more to save time. All my other stuff is now relegated to "last resort" status.

These clamps hold very well and hold square. They are easy to set up and dried glue peals right off. These are very important features in a clamp. They are worth the extra money especially for panel glue-ups which I do frequently. Most clamps tend to bow the panel....not these....it's easy to get a nice straight panel.

The recent purchase of the 12" K body clamp was an addition to approx 30 Bessey K body clamps I have in my workshop. After many years of using the traditional pipe clamp, the Bessey clamp makes the pipe clamp almost obsolete. Needless to say, I am totally pleased with the flexibility and performance of the Bessey clamp. Truly the best clamp on the market in my mind.

Had used the item in the past and finally decided to buy one of my own. Indispensible for any serious cabinet maker!

DOn't waste your mopney on the more expensive versions of this. The Kreg Rocket does all most will ever need. Well designed and well made, the Kreg jig is perfect time saving tool for both pro and occasional cabinetmakers.

Like DJ said, the ProPack is nice, but this is the kit that you will mainly use. Spend the money instead on this kit and one or two right angle clamps, maybe a bench clamp too. The Kreg clamps have yet to make a mark in the wood that I have used (mainly oak). The key to making this system work well is TIGHT clamping when the screw is passing from the drilled piece into the second piece. Hand clamps don't always do the job well and you can get movement, resulting in suboptimal alignment. Also be careful with MDF & melamine - these can split easily with this system. Get both the fine and coarse thread screws that are self tapping.
Bottom line is that when done right, this is much faster, cheaper, less messy, and more precise than biscuit joinery.

I use a small 5-1/2" saw for my panel cutting and I purchased a 4' version a few years back and found it works great for cutting strait line. I have not used it for a clamp, but when building cabinet it has come in very useful, I would suggest also getting the Attachment guide for mounting the saw on. A good craftsman could build one, but the plastic one works great and has a good snug fit.

Made in USA makes a difference. This is not junk. It is a beautifully built piece of equipment that is very nice to work with. I think that says it all.

I needed to make 3/4 in dado cuts with my router along 8 feet of plywood. My 2 part straight edge deflected under this strain. This one part unit with the router base was a joy to work with. Each dado as straight as could be with no struggling at all. The router base unit needed some work, but the straight edge was great.

This it a good straight edge, although it is hard to clamp down all the way to prevent a little movement. I called the company, and they sent me an extension to the handle which makes it easier to clamp down. They were quick with their response.

These clamps are great. I got this one, the 24 inch clamp and tool guide, and I also purchased the 48 inch (total 50 some inches) Pro guide with T Slots. I first saw the 24 inch clamp and tool on Norm Abrams New Yankee workshop, and he used them for a router edge guide. Then I saw him make a quick mortising jig, out of two of them for the router. These Griset clamps are a dream. They meet the criteria of being easy, quick, and accurate to set up and use. The list of possible uses is enourmous.
For example, I needed to trim the ends of some MDF. I used one of these clamps, with a square, grabbed the rear attaching brace, snugged it up to the rear of the piece, and then gave the front lever a push, and it easily clamped firmly to the piece. I took out my Bosch Jig Saw, and the guide was so accurate, that it enabled me to make a smooth cut. Finally I used a long board, with some medium grit, gave it a light sanding, and it was indistinguishable from the factory cut.
I find these to be so accurate, and easy to use, I could see a contractor using the 4 foot and 8 foot models to cut 4x8 sheets of plywood on the job.
I plan on buying more of these. I want to get another of the clamp and tool guide, so I can mate two of these up, for different operations, and I defintely want a pair of the back to back clamps for a quick way to secure pieces of sanding, and even gluing up.
It sounds expensive, for clamp and edge guides, when you think of buying several of them. Once you buy one or two, and start to use them, you will definitely be back for more.

After fumbling about with C-clamps combined with other straight edges for routing tasks, cutoff operations, etc., there is simply no comparison. The clamp-n-tool guide is one of those tools you will kick yourself for not buying sooner. The 24" model is compact and light yet very rigid and it will not move once clamped in place. It always clamps square to the edges. The clamping foot slides smoothly with little effort.

There are two "stages" to the clamping mechanism. In the first stage, the handle is nearly parallel to the body of the straight edge. I've found that in this mode the straight edge will tend to wiggle slightly. In the second stage, the handle is about a quarter of a revolution closer to the floor. In this mode the straight edge remains tightly in place and square. It takes a fair amount of pressure to clamp it tight. However, it tends to get easier after some use.

Given the many uses(straight edge guide, band saw or drill press fence, an extra edge clamp for glue-ups and others)and ease and quickness of use, I think its a great buy for the price of a decent router bit.

I originally purchased the 4ft. Tru-Grip Pro to build a router table carcass and top. Once I mastered the efficient use of the tool, I found making deadon accurate square cuts quick and painless. I do not have the bases, but I don't really need them. I just use the edge of the tool for a fence, check square and offset for the operation and either saw off edges or route dados and rabbet cuts. It's a bit more of a pain to set up than my table saw, but the accuracy is spot on and for large pieces and panel crosscuts, this absolutely provides maximum utility for the cost.

The Tru Grip Pro FTR series is a first class product. The thing that is very important is that they grip well (you can adjust it) and they are very true and accurate when using the Stop, or Router Guide, or Saw guide. No wobble, no play, just tight, smooth, snag free accuracy.
When you consider the tools they replace, they are also a bargain. With a 4 foot and an 8 foot model, you can cut 4 x 8 sheets of plywood, without having to shell out twenty times the money for a panel cutter. If I was cutting plywood sheets all day long, of course the panel cutter has some setup advantages. For example you don't have to bother to use a square when cutting with a panel cutter. But for portability, and accurate use, the Tru Grip system can't be beat.
The pro series is a lot wider than their regular guide clamps, that is to allow for the mitre T slots on both sides. That way the accessories can ride along those tracks. Their regular guide clamps are great for doing dadoes with a router for example. Use two of them, and you have an instant routing guide.
The circular saw accessory is very accurate. You just drill holes in the plate, which is phenolic plastic, and mount your saw. Then you drop your saw down through the plate, giving you an extremely tight fit, which prevents tear out, when cutting through finish work. So you wind up dedicating a circular saw to it.
The stop piece is great for all sorts of uses, like when routing blind dadoes, or for making repeated cuts at a certain depth.
Having the 4' and the 8 foot model is convenient. Using an 8' for everything is not advised. The long overhang left by an 8' on a short piece of work is not easy to deal with.
I use the 8' when trimming door edges. How else can you run an 80 inch door through a machine in order to get an adjusted edge?
The router plate is already machined out with a circle in the middle that is oversize, so as to keep the bit at a maximum clearance for plunging. Once again, you drill it yourself to accomodate your specific router.
The router , saw, and stop accessories are premade to fit into the specific configuration on the edge of the guide, as well as the T slot, creating a very snug fit, with no play, yet not binding.
The days of finding a left over edge of a plywood sheet, then figuring out how to clamp it down, in order to cut larger sheets are over. This system is lightweight, made out of thick aluminum, which makes it substantial, yet a breeze to carry around.

The equipment it replaces, and the accurracy it creates in your work, make it well worth the price. Highly recommended.

Really helps cross cutting operations in a small shop, and when combined with one of the bases also available helps deliver repeatable, accurate results. What more do you need?

The big benefit to these is that you get true mobility out of them. While holding a piece of work, lined up, in one hand, you use these quick grips in the other hand to secure the work. If it slips while clamping, it is still a one handed tool to release it, and reclamp it again. Enables you to maintain a professional flow to your work. I feel awkward when using regular clamps in comparison. They require two hands. You could use a spring clamp to hold it together, then get another clamp to give it a final hold, but the quick grip saves you from having to do that.
Having these clamps in a few different sizes is beneficial as well. Small ones are more frequently used, and don't get in the way. The 33 1/2" is great when you need to hold larger projects together, and you can't effectively use two smaller ones to substitute. Additionally the macro clamps give you deeper jaws for a farther reach, enabling you to use them for securing work, to your radial arm saw table for example. They are fast enough to be used for almost any application. Sometimes I use them to secure work when sanding with a power sander. A couple squeezes and they are on, and one squeeze and they pop off.
After getting the smaller ones, and using them, I immediately order two of the 33 1/2" for larger projects, and for tie downs on equipment, including the drill press, and occasionally the radial arm saw.
Their is a small rubber stopper, which you can readily remove, in order to reverse the end, and make it a spreader as well. Something not needed very often, but difficult to achieve without one of these.
One note is that these have built in rubber pads, that completely cover the metal internal end. That is an advantage when you do not want to mar the wood. That and the fact that you can squeeze these with one hand, creates a mechanism that is easy to use, but not something that you would want to use for strength clamping. As a safety measure, these clamp sufficiently for most operations, but a threaded bar clamp, is stronger. So for those operations where extreme strength is needed, these are not the clamps to use. You sacrifice mountain holding strength for the ease of use. For example if I was using a large bit on the drill press, and drilling into metal, I would clamp it with something more. Even the slightest movement in an operation like that, could cause a snag, sending the piece into movement. If you are using just one of them, at the end of a 24" board, and decide to rout the other end, it will move on you. Securing it with two of them, and it is super tied down. You get my drift.
The big advantage of quick grip clamps, is that they handle wood beautifully, even for glue up operations. Hold workpieces more than securely to do the job in most applications, and are so handy that they deserve more than 5 stars. I would feel lost without them. It is another tool in the must have category.

This Quick-Grip Clamp exceeded my expectations with its ease of use, durability, and gripping power. A must for the workshop.

I use this to hold down an advanced watercooling system on my Geforce4. Bet ya never knew you could put it in a computer did ya! Highly recommended! These things ROCK!

I built a shed recently with a wide door to accomodate big tools. I made this door out of 2x6 tongue-and-groove decking boards, which I needed to clamp together to attach 2x4 bracing. So a pair of "Pony" clamp fixtures and a couple lengths of black pipe was just the ticket -- or almost. The decking boards needed a bit of persuasion to get all 9 planks together, and I didn't want to gouge the nice oak. Some cedar shims against the clamp pads promptly crumpled when I tightened the clamps. So I left the door until the next weekend and ordered these clamp pads.

Now I have a nice shed with a sturdy, attractive door on it. And no clamp marks!

Strongly recommended.

There is not much criteria one could comment on clamp pads. I have installed these on all my Jorgenson I-Bar clamps, and they (1) are non-marring and, (2) stay on the clamps very well. What more can one ask for?

Purchased several sets for my extensive clamp collection, and have been very satisified. These pads are tough, and will not stick to the work. At the same time, they eliminate slippage and twisting as the clamp is being tightened. In addition, they fit the less costly Pittsburg brand pipe clamps like a glove. I have found that these clamps are every bit as good as the Jorgensen clamp for about 1/3 the price! These pads make them even better.

I bought the Kreg pocket hole kit and love it. It comes with a few dozen 1 1/4 screws, and I bought these thinking they are the same. These are the Pan Head, which are nice, but the ones in the kit are washer heads that have more purchase on the bottom of the pocket. The pan heads will sink into the wood, even using walnut and cherry. I have not had one fail yet, but I worry that they sink about 3/16" deeper into the joint than the other screws. Visit the Kreg site to find the whole assortment of screws and plugs.

I have just built an entire set of kitchen cabinets using hickory, which is very hard in case you haven't worked with it before. I did not have one twist-off or spin-out with these screws. Excellent screws.

I bought these with the Kreg Pro Pack Pocket Hole Kit. They do the job well. Other sizes are available as well. It is a good idea to stock up on this 1 1/4" size, since they are intended for use in the most popular wood size of 3/4". That way you get 1/2" bite into the joining wood. These fine threaded screws are made for hardwoods. The point is so sharp that they will go into Red Oak without having to drill a pilot hole. Even though the Kreg jig comes with a drill bit with a tip on it, that bit does not even penetrate the first piece of wood, let alone the joining piece. They depend on the sharpness of these pocket hole screws to make their way through even the hardwoods. The shaft is narrow enough so as to not cause a split.
A coarse thread is available for soft woods as well.
These Kreg screws are well made, and do the job well. Hope this helps.

I own just about every 19.2v PC tool. This is a stout product line and the Tiger Saw (I always just called them "sawzalls") from PC can cut through anything with the right blade.

You will need more than one battery, as has already been stated, but if you want lots of power, you are going to sacrifice battery life. That's just physics. This tool has lots of power, so I make sure I've got backup batteries. I have a multitude of them since I own so many 19.2 devices, so keeping a fleet of batteries charged is a non-issue for me. PC's newer chargers and batteries are better than they were three years ago, so anyone who had bad experiences with the older chargers really should contact PC for a replacement.

One recommendation: when you get the saw, it will come with a very basic blade. Keep it, but go and order yourself a couple of other blades, because the one it ships with will not impress you. I would suggest a long, combination blade for general use, a carbide blade for cutting metals, and a fine-tooth blade for more precision work.

Nothing beats a good sawzall, and this is a great one.

As a professional plumber, the sawzall is my primary tool. Almost every time I do a job, its one of the first tools to come off the truck. The only trouble was when I do renovation work. It was always such a pain to drag out the old PC Tigersaw to make a couple of cuts. Draging it in, finding a plug, pulling an extension cord, all made me think of using a hacksaw. Not really liking any of the red or yellow corded saws, I was thrilled when PC came out with the cordless saw last year. I ordered myself one for christmas and took it to work. Needless to say, I was very happy with it. It works almost as well as its corded brother with the exception of the short charge. But if you are cutting more than two batteries worth(I have the drill and saw set too), then you should have pulled out the corded version.

This is the first cordless recip saw I ever owned, and it turned out to be a great pick. I got it with the hammer/drill/driver in a combo kit. After considering what the competition offers, I bought the PorterCable 19.2V line partly because of brand loyalty, but also because of the saw's compact design and 2,900 spm speed. This saw is heavier than the Milwaukee, Dewalt, and Makita models, but it is shorter in length and easier to manage with one hand despite its weight, and has more power. It gets into tighter spaces than the others, and its speed is faster, too. Now, I cannot do without this tool. Using the right blade, it literally cuts anything, from plywood and studs, to drywall, to sheet metal and pipe, or old tires, or bricks. I have used it doing renovation work in the attic and under the house where cordless convienience and power is needed. I like to reverse the blade and turn it upside down to use like a sabre saw, pivoting on its foot to do plunge cuts. Believe me, life got easier real fast after buying this. One thing though, the saw can sap a battery quickly when doing long extended cuts in tough material, like for door and window openings. But its performance and conveinience makes up for that. I can't wait to try this saw with an aggressive wood blade for trimming trees and cutting limbs on my property. Look for more of my reviews on the PorterCable 19.2V line and recip saw blades.

Buy this one, quickly, while you still can get a gen-yoo-wine, made-by-Brits-in-Sheffield vise for a Taiwanese price. The Record 52-1/2 is a far better device than expected for a little over a hundred bucks. It has tremendous capacity, is heckforstrong, and is fast-acting without mystical half-turn gymnastics. It has a nice, long-lasting blue paint finish, and decent metal finishes as well. You can tighten it up with a whomping mallet mash if you care to, and it will take it and smile back at you. The quick-release lever is a pure gem in operation.

This champion of a vise deserves a big, heavy bench to support it in the fashion in which it would like to become accustomed. Be aware that mounting procedures will affect your long-term enjoyment greatly. If your bench is edged, mounting Big Blue behind the edging gives you a seamless inside face; this is superior to recessing it into the bench side. You also should fabricate an outside jaw pad of hardwood. Magnetic pads are available for this vise, but they look crummy on a nice bench, can't be made from scraps and won't last as long as maple ones. A useful, plain-English installation guide is included.

Waxing the screw and guides is recommended. Don't use oil, grease or WD40, all of which will accumulate crud rapidly.

Drawbacks are few: you won't get the full jaw width after facing the jaws (you don't need it anyway); it weighs about an Imperial ton (only a disadvantage if your bench is lightish); and it will torque its works a bit if you rachet down hard with a piece of stock held vertically in one side. This last peccadillo is curable by the expedient of shimming the opposite side with a board of equal thickness. Final drawback is the dog, which is good hard steel -- just the thing to punch divots in your workpieces. Make a new one out of hardwood (takes 15 minutes or so if you're slow like me), and your troubles are over. Alternatively, you can use cauls between the dog and your workpieces.

The ONLY reason I'll never buy another Record 52-1/2 is that a guy really only needs one -- and I'll never wear this one out. Nice to see well-made gear out there.

As with the majority of equipment manufactured by Record, you will find attention to detail and excellent quality. The 52-1/2 does not disappoint. The thread design on the clamp is very beefy and will withstand as much pressure as you can muster without the possibility of striping out. This is something you want find on the Taiwanese copycats. The ratio of handle turn to clamp movement is excellent allowing for incremental adjustment of clamping pressure without the fear of "over doing it". The adjustable top "dog" is great when used in conjunction with bench "dogs" resulting in even great clamping width capacities. The quick release feature is very helpful in quickly adjusting the jaw width without having to crank your arm off.

As mentioned in an earlier review, careful attention should be paid to adequately mount the vice. I anchored the vise in a 2" x 4" laminated workbench by rabbiting the rear vice clamp into the bottom of the workbench and then secured it with ¼" x 2 ½" lag bolts. I also attached a 12" long 2" x 4" to the front vice clamp. This gives me a wood-on-wood clamping surface to protect the surface of my projects.

This should be the first (and it will probably be the last) vise you consider or purchase.

This is a good, strong vise that is easy to tighten and loosen. The lever swivels very smoothly and is large enough to give you a good grip. The overall design is excellent. The way the mounting holes are positioned, you can mount the vise on the edge of your workbench so it has a fairly low profile. This means that the vise is very unobtrusive, staying out of the way, yet providing access when you need it. The inside of the mouth is smooth. However, I taped some padding on it to make sure it doesn't damage wood. If you're a woodworker, this is the best kind of vise to get.