Hammers Reviews

First the good news: this is a good value considering all you get for the money. Each of the tools is a decent tool in its own right. I'm glad I bought this and would recommend it to the occassional home improvement enthusiast.

Now the bad news: the blower is nigh useless. As with all multi-pack tools, there is a little skimping here and there on the tools. If you need any of these tools for anything more than occassional use, you might want to buy them separately. When you get a combo deal like this, you get what you pay for.

I will try not to bore you, or to "plug" the Makita brand. I am giving you my personal opinion as per my experience over the past 2 years.
A little background...I am a carpenter/remodeler and work with a friend of mine. We have alot of Makita in our trailer, as well as other brands, like Dewalt, Porter Cable, Craftsman, Bosch, David White, etc. As you can see, we are not partial to one brand. We try to buy the best we can find, at a price we are willing to pay. Being professionals, we are less inclined to worry about price, and more concerned in quality and ease of use features.

As with all tools...do your homework. Ask valuable questions and answer them honestly. Do YOU really need 18 volts, or are you trying to better your neighbor? Do you NEED a cordless hammer drill?

Me..? Yes I do. If you read my review on the DK1052DL kit (here in Amazon) you will get alot of info on the 6347 M-Force drill, 5620 Circ saw (my favorite), and the JR180 Recip saw. I love that kit and stand by it. The reason I bought this kit is simple to me. After having great experiences with the DK1052, I wanted a hammer drill but really needed the jig saw. The best price I could find was $270 and $299 respectivly. Buying the complete kit is really the only choice. Granted, 2 batteries aren't always enough for me (which before is why I bought a 6347D drill kit in addition), but for a homeowner/enthusiast it's a great kit.

The recip-saw that came with this DK1032 has a different, updated blade holder than my other one. This one has a "knob/collar" that you turn to release the blade, which stays in the "released" position after the blade "pops" out. All you do is stick another blade in, and the collar rotates to the lock position. Nice feature. We'll see how it holds up. The older one I have has a "slide" lever, which works fine, even though it has been loaded up with drywall dust.

The Circ saw is excellent (see my review of the DK1052). Another person had commented on not being able to make great miter cuts when building a deck. Don't try to do it freehand. This is a circular saw, not a miter saw. By the time you set up a jig in order to get a clean, straight line, you can have the cut done on a miter saw. This saw is like any other circ saw...it will cut where you point it...it will get off line when you do. When you have a sharp blade in it, it will cut until the battery dies.

The drill impressed me when I first saw it. Same weight as my 6347. Basically the same type of clutch torque setting too. I like this drill better than some others, because of the 2 rings by the chuck. One is the torque ring, and the other is the drive/drill/hammer ring, which can be changed independantly of the torque ring. Some other drills, you have to rotate the torque ring all the way from a torque number to drill then to hammer. With the 8443, you can go right to hammer from the torque setting you want to use for that fastener. It doesn't spin as fast as a corded drill, but it's a cordless, it's not going to.

The jig saw is great too. I've used it to cut steel studs, sink openings, fiber cement board, etc. The Ridgid cordless jig saw we have on board has a better tool-less blade change than the Makita. It has a springed lever (much nicer) where Makita has a clamp style. The Makita has a knob on top, you have to slide into the "activate" position, turn to open the jaws, insert the blade, turn to tighten, and then slide the knob into the "deactive" position. It does hold the blade tight, and the knob doesn't get in the way when done correctly, but the Ridgid can be change in about 5 seconds, and the Makita takes a little longer. But the Makita has tool-less base plate positioning, and can be moved back to allow a closer cut to an edge (ie...cutting a floor up close to a wall).

Next..the blower. Yes it seems a little goofy to have, but it's there...might as well use it. I don't use it often, but it does come in handy. Example is when we finished a deck recently, we used it to blow the saw dust off before the customer saw the deck. It was easier than dragging the shop-vac out. I've also used it when doing a filter service/clean on a furnace.

Lastly...I don't think there is any skimping going on with the tools. These are the exact same things you get if you buy them separatly. The only difference is you don't get a case for each individual tool, or additional batteries and chargers.
If you want a great all around kit...Definatly consider this one. The price is right for all the tools you get. And they are excellent tools. Remember, these are cordless tools. They cannot, and should not be expected to, do jobs that require a heavy duty corded tool. VERY few cordless tools can. Do your homework.

This toolkit is absolutely wonderful. I'm especially impressed with the drill and the jigsaw. I use the drill all of the time. The blower isn't good for much, but other than that this toolset is the kit to have. However, it only comes with two batteries, i've bought more since, because 5 tools with 2 batteries doesn't go very far, even though the batteries last longer than any i've ever seen.

If you want a durable, high-power, aggressive sander, then this is the right one for you. I bought this sander because of Milwaukee's reputation for tough & powerful tools, and it sure has lived up to the name. However, I do have a few minor complaints... (1) The motor shaft has a fan and vent for keeping the motor cool, but unfortunately, this fan/vent blows the sanding dust almost directly upward into my face (so wear goggles/dust-mask); a dust bag would be nice (if it worked right) (2) The power trigger is on the underside of the body which circumscribes the motor, but the body diameter is a little too big to get a comfortable grip when using the sander for a long time. It'd be better if the grip was shaped like a gas pump handle (like the Makita, Bosch, and Metabo sanders) (3) The sander should (but doesn't) come with a hook & loop pad for easy application and removal of sanding discs (instead the discs have to be stuck on). (4) the sander comes with a handle that can be screwed into right/left/top side of sander for two-handed use, but I think the sander would be a lot easier to use for long periods of time if this handle would screw onto the FRONT of the sander, so that your two hands would be on opposite sides of the pad for balance (like on the Makita BO5021KX and Bosch 3725DVS, although the handle is fixed on these models). Aside from these ergonomic drawbacks, the sander is just what Milwaukee tools are supposed to be: very durable, aggressive, and high-power... this is what your money pays for. I've gotten excellent results when using this sander on wood floors and furniture, and would be reluctant to trade it in for anything but another Milwaukee.

I have 3 porter cable, 2 Makita, and 1 Fein random orbit sanders. Only the fein comes close as far as agressiveness. The only drawback is that there is no vacuum provision.

I use this sander every day all day all week long it is the best sander on the market We have tryed them all and this one is hands down the best we use it for rough sanding and fine sanding jobs and it does have a vac set up

If you really are going to drill alot of 1/2 holes and larger get a drill with more amperage. This drill looks like the big ones, but it's a pussy cat.

This tool does everything right; it's relatively light and small, yet packs a serious punch! I've used it to accurately knock out cracked bathroom tile fixtures in the hammer-only mode to hammer-drilling holes for gas lines for gas fireplaces. It comes with a very nice carrying case that holds practically everything I need for most jobs; safety glasses, earplugs, a large assortment of drill bits and demo tools. Although I have an assortment of rotary hammers large and small, this one is my favorite for medium size holes and chipping. I highly recommend this tool for anyone in the market for a lightweight 3 mode rotary hammer.

I had a competitor's rotary hammer which I did not really care for. I was looking for a tool such as this from Porter-Cable for some time. It finally became available. The other tool was working, so no real good justification for buying a new Porter-Cable SDS. Well The 'other' tool ended up missing. I needed a tool right away.

This tool is balanced a lot better than the competitors, works fine, and all our power tools are being replaced with Porter-Cable as they are needed and become available.

I bought this tool several months ago, and I'm really disappointed with its performance. This tool is for light weight wussy work. Has no durability whatsoever. I was working with heavy duty concrete and after 2 months the performance was getting weaker and after 1 more month the engine burned. No technical service and I got no responses from my e-mails.
I just got a Hilti Rotary hammer and this tool is kicking hard. I pay double of the price, but with this tool I can work for years without worry.
Do Not Buy dewalt

At no point in my life have i felt so complete as that first day that I picked up my DeWalt Hammer drill. I cannot describe the utter quality and sheer genius that this fine tool radiates. if you are going to buy one rotary hammer drill kit this year, make it the DeWalt DW004K 24 Volt Heavy Duty 7/8"SDS rotary hammer drill kit.

I bought this particular drill just over a year ago now, i cant find 1 single fault with it. it has taken the knocks and blows, and i am as yet to find ANY drill of its size to rival it, either corded or cordless. I paid £550 for mine, and it is the best value for money of ANY object i've bought EVER !! I have been asked several times "was it worth it", as to which i have replied on every occasion - "every single penny".

I bought this rotary hammer for drilling in grout holes for rebar and anchor bolts and some other misc. holes in concrete. It is a very good tool for someone who has a lot of varied tasks but dosen't work the tool everyday. The clutch is a wrist saver, the bits are harder to find than SDS Max and the price is right. But the tool went down in a matter of hours, and given Hitachi's impossible to locate parts, I'm shopping for a SDS Max Hilti or Bosch. No tool is a good deal if it shuts your job down.

Like most Hitachi tools , this is very well engineered. It stands up to all kinds of abuse. Mine ran for years drilling all sizes of holes in old hard concrete. I also used it for chipping which is hard on roto hammers. They don't have a lot of power for breaking concrete as this is not their intended primary use. So when you do use them for breaking , they have to run a lot longer than a demolition hammer would. It has pretty good power for drilling though. I bought mine used and had it for five years before replacing it recently. I went to SDS max which is currently replacing spline drive in the large rotary hammer market. It is a tighter mechanism which transfers more of the hammering power to the bit , resulting in faster drilling performance. If you have a lot of spline bits , this would be a good tool to buy. If you are starting from scratch , I would recommend the SDS max hammers from Hilti , Bosch or milwaukee

I bought mine a few months ago, and I love it. I use it for breaking up granite boulders by drilling a line of holes and splitting the rock with stonemasons' 'feathers and pins'. The thing weighs quite a bit so it's not the best for small holes in masonry walls. It seems to work best when held vertically or close to it. ... I've not had any problems with it, and it does as good a job as my friend's Hilti which cost him more than twice as much. The spline-shaft bits aren't always easy to find. My local Home Depot has a few, but mail-ordering is usually necessary to find a specific size. I haven't tried to use it as a jack-hammer yet, so I cannot confirm or refute toolpig's evaluation of when it's used as such. In any case, I think I got good value on this tool.

I recently re-ordered this hammer (my first one rode home with someone I don't know). I liked that one so much, I had to get another. I am a west coast Union carpenter, and Ti hammers are seen more and more often on job sites these days. I had to go back to an old 25 oz. hammer after my last Stilletto was stolen, and WOW, what a difference! I chose this hammer for many reasons, but here are a few you might consider: 1) it's light weight will save your body from wear and tear, 2) the smooth face, combined with the weight allow this hammer to be used for finish work, as well as framing (and it won't mash your fingers), 3) that magnetic nail holder comes in very handy and 4)I mean, come on, Titanium...it's just so cool. The only drawback to this hammer is it's tendency to ring like a tuning fork. You might find yourself reaching for earplugs if you don't already wear them. Other than that, it's simply a shame to think that you'll be using this beautiful tool in a manner that will (hopefully after many, many years) leave it worn and scarred. But when that time comes, at least you'll still be able to move your arm without pain.

My husband has been swinging a hammer as a residential carpenter for almost 20 years. He builds them from the ground up - no weekend warrior here. He had heard about this light weight hammer and wanted to try it out. After giving it a go at work, he won't ever go back to the "other" kind. When you're swinging a hammer all day long, you don't want heavy. He bought it several years ago, and while he's gone through a couple of the wood handles, the hammer head is still going strong. Many of the guys my husband works with have converted to this hammer as a result of using his a couple times. These are guys who use a hammer for a living, so I think that's a reasonable endorsement.

i have used this hammer for over a year now . it is the best hammer i have ever used . after a long day of driving 16d sinkers my hands don't ack all night long . i have the poly/fiberglass handle on my big nail driver.

Using it to break through 6 feet of rock.... did ok but the handle feels cheap like its going to fall off and the darn thing just doesnt have the power i would like

I highly recommend this hammer. It's tough and has never let me down, works like a steel horse!

This ahmmer is really a life saver. I used it to crush a 30' x 30' slab 4" thich and it only took 2 days. The only downfall is that its taller than pueumatic demolition hammers and im not that tall so it was a little hard to pull iy back up when crushing the concrete. I still highly recomend it

Dont send a boy to do a mans job..Dissapointed in Milwakee's product for the first time. problems with chuck bearings. can not screw or drill much load. maybe a 12V drill should be called a screw gun not a drill

If you need a good all around cordless, this drill is highly recommended. Milwaukee has done a great job incorporating "Heavy Duty" toughness without the weight of an 18 volt bruiser! This drill is not only light but compact, nearly the size of my older Panasonic. The plastic housing is the best I have seen among cordless drills. Looks like it's built to last! The rubberized trigger and soft grip handle just adds to the balanced comfort. This drill also included a cool Clip-Lok system eliminating the need for a holster or one of those awkward lug hooks.

The power is more than adequate for most jobs. I was able to drill quite a few holes with my hole-saw during door installations. The drill does pack a pretty hefty kick with all the torque generated at 1400rpm. Luckily, there is a two speed feature to tame this beast! For me, a good 12 volt drill is perfect for most woodworking projects, the weight and extra bulk of anything greater is just not worth the fatique. Maybe I just don't have the ego for a hefty 18 or 24 volter! To me, the whole point of using cordless tools is to get away from the excess weight!

The only complaint I have on this drill is the trigger. Although, I love the rubberized feel, my finger got pinched quite a few times when I pulled the trigger. The fleshy part of my trigger finger got caught between the tacky rubber switch and the housing...Ouch! Then again, it may just be me and not the tool. All in all, this is another excellent product from Milwaukee! And a big mahalo to Larry at the Amazon/Tool-Crib for assisting with my purchase. No where on the islands was this beauty available!

I bought this drill on december 15 and have used it several times. the clip for the belt works great much better than the big lug hook. it goes on the clip easy and comes off easy. the drill is great for drilling or screwing. if you are looking for a drill to clip on and carry with you. the batteries seem to come off easier than on the older style of milwaukee. i recommend this drill.

I ordered the 18 oz stainless hammer direct from themanufacturer, and used it daily for less than a month. The claws would no longer pull nails using a sideways motion. The manufacturer cheerfully traded it out for their 16 oz carbon steel model (they did not make an 18 oz carbon at the time). The carbon steel held up twice as long before it too would not pull nails correctly. If you pull nails incorrectly, in line with the head, one of two things will happen. Because the hammer is flat across the top, you will wiggle the handle out of the head, or, on a cold day, you snap that nylon handle right off! Also, having the nail starter on the side makes it difficult to start nails exactly where you want to. On the plus side, the "golf ball" texture on the face provides good traction when driving nails, and it won't rip open your thumb if you miss. If you really want the nail starter, look at the Death Stick or the Stilletto, in good old fasioned carbon steel.

This is a great hammer with great features. But stainless it is not. One of the main reasons I got it was the stainless head, but mine started to rust within days.

I was thoroughly impressed by this hammer. The nail starter is on the side rather than the front, which worked great when sheeting and siding a house I was working on. The poly handle is very durable, and makes this hammer very light to use (for Women who want a burly hammer that is not too heavy, this is it). I also liked the design of the face. Rather than having the typical square pitted face (which can leave quite a mark in finishing) this one had a round pitted face with smooth edges, providing both grip and protection from wood damage when you pound a little too hard. A great hammer and the price was great too.

My Milwaukee hammer-drill was fine for green concrete and concrete block, but I had to get something less frustrating when I had to drill granite fieldstone. I got fed up with the Jacobs chuck loosening even when I tightened it with 10" visegrips locked on the chuck key. I ran down to Home Depot to get this, and I must say it was a big improvement if only for the SDS+ chuck. The SDS+ bits cost more but they seem to be better made. Also the rotary hammer puts more impact force into the bit. This model of the Hitachi has only drill and hammer-drill; no chipping mode. Despite the rating of 15/16", the maximum hole is less than 1/2" in hardened concrete or granite. Otherwise, it does as good of a job as any of the other brands and costs less. I have some jobs coming up that will require a bigger beast, and I plan to get one of the spline-drive big Hitachis for that.

We currently own 12 Hitachi rotary hammers and have been very pleased with them. We have tried all other brands and we now choose Hitachi exclusively.We really like the price /performance of the DH38YE and the DH24PB.