Power Supplies Reviews

This Bosch mini driver is exactly as portrayed. An excellent buy with a long battery life and high torque to boot.
I use this in a commercial environment and it meets all of my needs. Fits well in a tool belt and can loosen tight screws as well as drive them in tightly. I am very pleased.

I have had my drill now for a few weeks and man, it never seizes to amaze me. It is so small it fits nicely in my electrician belt bag, including the spare battery. It charges very fast and it runs forever. I don't bring my 18v drill to work anymore coz' my pocket driver is very handy and powerful enough. My co-workers are convinced, they too are thinking of getting one.

This screwdriver fits a nice niche between a full size electric driver and a hand screwdriver. Small, light but still powerfull enough for most around the house jobs. I won't try to build a house with it, but for 80% of what most homeowners need, this tool will work great.

I first tried the new Skil palm-size Lithium-Ion screwdriver, but without variable speed it was worthless so I returned it. The Bosch is a much better tool - variable speed, 10 position clutch and good ergonomics. To be fair, the Bosch costs 3X more, but it is worth it.

My only nit is that the two bits that come with it are very short, making it tough to get into tight spaces. This is easily fixed with an inexpensive bit set. However, for this price it should have come with something more.

I purchaced the dw222 of a clearance rack for 50.00. I find that it is a fine drill,I really like the drills push button spindle lock. It is simple, but it works great. The chuck is simple (does not ratchet)but it holds bits tight. I think the trigger is a bit too sensitive(on mine).
Its torque is good,but for big bits I find that I must watch the rpms,this drill does stall.My Milwaukee magnum 302 has never stalled in the 3 years I have owned it. The DW 222 excells in drilling small to medium bits.
For bigger stuff I use my magnum or one of my three 18v drills.
I find that the 18v drill have better low end torque in low gear
(as long as the batteries are charged) The cordlesses will be useful only as long as the batteries last and can be replaced.
The dw222 will most likely out live me.
Overall: a fine drill

For those times when your cordless just won't do it, or when you just have hours worth of holes to drill, here's your ticket.
I've had this drill for about a year and have used it much more than I expected. It has never failed to perform, even under heavy loads.
I've read a few reviews that say that DeWalt motors fail fairly quickly. I haven't had a problem with any of my DeWalt motors cordless or corded. I can certainly recommend this drill.

My only two "complaints" are that it doesn't have a 1/2" chuck and that it doesn't come with a side handle, which it could certainly use.

I can't believe the torque on this thing! I'm not sure if an extra handle is available for this, but if it is, get it. The single sleeve keyless chuck takes away any disadvantages of a keyless chuck. It's got a spindle lock so you can use your whole hand to wrench on the chuck to make sure it's tight. In addition, it's geared low so it gets really tight. The rear grip is figured just right to fit your hand "carpenter's style" That is, squeeze the trigger with your ring and pinky finger while putting the pushing force from behind with your palm and first two fingers. The yellow color makes it hard to lose or leave behind. If you're getting a drill for woodworking, you might want more speed instead of this much torque. If it's going to be used all around, (metal included) either this or a 1/2" Milwaukee is the one to get.

I've found the flex-shaft to be one of the most useful Dremel tool accessories. It's great for those remote, hard-to-reach areas of my work pieces where the width of the tool itself would hinder my efforts, ot it just can't reach. It took a while for me to get the hang of using it, since it required a bit more hand control than I originally anticipated. Just make sure to keep it as straight as possible, and don't bend it too much- it heats up pretty quickly, especially at the bends. And heat's the big killer of this accessory. Also, be sure to have a bit of the flex-shaft grease handy for occasional lubrication.

The only thing that annoys me about the flex-shaft is that it won't accept a chuck to secure the bits, just collets. This can be a major frustration when I'm doing work that requires constant bit changes, with different bit diameters. Just when I thought I was rid of those pesky collets forever...

`Late

They have the MultiSaw, they have the Chuck, even the magnet-powered Dremelite, but nothing comes close to the Flexshaft. This baby is THE essential attachment for a Dremel. It comes with easy-to-read instructions on How to put it on, and it even has a diagram showing the different parts and the part numbers. (in case something gets broken, as in my case). This thing is incredible. I polish silver Quite a bit with my Dremel, and this thing makes it easy to get into those ultra-hard-to-reach areas. (my current project is a silver clarinet of my grandmother's). If you only get one attachment for Your Dremel, This one is way out in front for the choice. (just don't put it past 30000 RPM unless you have the flex-shaft tool holder, not that anything bad will happen, it just makes this annoying chattering noise).

5 out of 5

This tool is the most important attachment in Dremel's Inventory. All Users should get one

I had mixed results and can only recommend to proceed with informed caution. There are unique positives to be considered as well.

First, the unit has a 7W minimum load, which is quite low compared to some competing brands that require a 40W minimum load. So if you have compact flourescents, this is one of a few that will work on such a small load. Others don't actualy cut off all the power and rely on the "load" to supply the resistence. My lights flickered even when off with competing brands. A single compact flourescent worked fine on this time with the tiny minimum load. However, I recommend that if you have any problems, throw a 40W incandescent bulb in and see if the problem goes away.

Second, the wires stick out the the right-side, which can be very difficult to work with compared to competing brands that stick out the back. If you have a tight box, planning on placing it on the right-side, or if you have other bulky switches (like other timers or dimmers) to the right of this, you might have signficiant trouble. If you have to force it, that could cause it to malfunction. I really wish the wires came out the back.

Third, Swylite's customer service is oustanding, responsive, and helpful if you have any technical problems. Unfortunately I did have trouble with two units I had purchased. At the first sign of faulty behavior on one of the two units (just a few days after installation) I had contacted Swylite through email. They promptly replied as we exchanged a few emails and quickly offered to sent out a replacement at no cost. Eventually the specific unit quicky deteriorated and significantly misbehaved, but since they did quickly replace that, let's consider that nicely resolved. The replacement unit is functioning perfectly for about two weeks now.

I said I purchased two units. Both failed to operate every now and then (every other week or so) and would start working again if you flipped the timer off and on once. I bet Swylite would replace the other if I asked, but instead bought a competing brand's timer that I am trying out for now.

Final thoughs: So again, the one replaced Swylite timer that I am still using has been functioning great. The company certainly backed it up promptly when I had a problem. My other timer from a competitor is absolutely outstanding, but it uses batteries for backup (provided) and has a 40W minimum load.

I bought one of these to replace another brand (I have had three of them and they all failed!) and it works flawlessly!

Great product, works as intended, simple to program and operate and also has on-board surge protection against power outages. Never needs batteries, never looses memory or settings!

The unit also fits flush in my wall plate which is very nice.

These guys did a great job and made a great product. Just as advertised as seen on TV!

I installed this timer switch 6 months ago and it has worked without any problems. With this switch, I automatically control two compact flourescent bulbs for outdoor night lighting of my patio. This Swylite wall switch timer is far superior to the Intermatic Digital wall switch timer (model SS7C) which I previously used. The Intermatic switch uses a AAA battery to operate a solenoid switch that eventually sticks in the "on" position with no way of turning off except removing from the wall. (Side note - not sure why some reviewers do not mention competing companies like I just did. This would help us consumers more quickly identify good products and bad products. Please let us know all the company names of similar products tried if you review - thanks! :^)

Pros
* Simple single event programming (allows 1 "on" time and 1 "off" time for daily operation)
* Easy to read LCD panel
* Big, easy to use manual override switch
* No battery needed for operation or program memory
* Program memory is not lost during power outage

Cons
* Simple single event programming (does not allow for multiple on/off times each day or different on/off times for unique weekend operation)
* Wiring exits from side of unit instead of back of unit for somewhat tougher installations when space in electrical box is an issue.

nice solid unit...unique handle allows variations in holding the unit up.

I had a body shop for twenty years. Spent more time behind a polisher than would be believed if I stated it. Polishers for automotive use were all 2400 RPM. It was either on or off, and no variable speed. When trying to feather in an area, I used to feather the switch on and off intermittently. This polisher by Makita takes it to the next level. The moment I took it out of the box and plugged it in, it was preset at one on the speed dial. I squeezed the trigger, and it crawled around so slow I couldn't believe it. Then when setting it at a higher number it gave you variable speed on the trigger. That way you had the option of adjusting by the trigger, any speed up to the preset number. Additionally, you could press in the lock on, and it would remain at a constant speed. In plain words, every option was considered, well thought out, and integrated into the tool. Leave it to Makita to make another dead on accurate tool. Add to that the built in smart electronics, which gives you just the right amount of power to keep it running at the preset speed, even when it encounters more resistance. That keeps the speed constant.
I do woodworking projects now, and was looking for a solution to give me a polished finish. The problem was that my old polishers had two speeds. Flat out 2400 or stop. Additionally they had only one option for bonnets, or cutting wheels: Large!
The Makita 9227C comes with a hook and loop 7" backing pad, and an included centering spline. Their are nice polishing wool bonnets that work with the hook and loop pad. Their are also hook and loop lambswool polishing pads that are close napped, and make for a very tight clean edge. Great for getting into those otherwise inaccessable areas. With woodwork, you may be polishing a 3 inch apron for example, right up against the underside of the table top. That requires a hook and loop backing pad, with a tight nap hook and loop pad.
Makita also has available as an option, the side handles that we have all come to know, the standard throughout the years. Those side handles are my personal choice for automotive. The handle that this 9227c comes with does not feel intuitively comfortable in my opinion. At first I thought that handle would grow on me after awhile. NOT, it is uncomfortable. I had bought the Makita 4 1/2" grinder at an earlier time from Home Depot, when they run their tool sale, just about giving it away. That side handle works perfectly on the polisher as well. So for the super cheap price, it is nice to have the handle, and the grinder.
Additionally, this polisher is available at the Makitatools.com site with the side handle only instead of the wrap around handle. The part number on that one is 9227CY. Since the side handle is available as an option, I chose to go with this one, and pick up the handle, to keep all options open.
Makita also had the standard rubber backing pad with the hex nut for the center, so you can use the standard bolt on cutting wheels, and be able to use the tie on bonnets on top of it.
If you are planning on doing the mile deep gloss level of polishing, you will need the 2400 speed range that this Makita gives you. (As well as the other speeds) The polishers that only go to 1750 is not what you want for truly incredible gloss. Especially when using high build finishes like urethanes, and well cured lacquers.
With all that in mind, that makes this Makita the top of the heap. It does share that position with the Milwaukee 5540, but that is another review. I like the Makita because it is 6 pounds instead of 9 like the 5540, and has 99 percent of the power, and 25% better price tag. The Milwaukee comes with the side handle instead of the wrap around.
All in all I am glad I bought the Makita although I must admit the Milwaukee is tugging at me as well. Highly recommended.

I recently took delivery of this machine and just can't put it down. The electronic speed control does exactly what they claim. It maintains speed even running an eight inch soft pad with sixty grit on the slowest speed setting of 300 rpm! The handle is another great bonus with a much greater combination of postions than a regular side grip. This polisher/sander maintains Makita's rep as having the lightest...but strongest polisher/sanders around, this one's a feather. It also has the standard goodies like the spindle lock and trigger hold. It's definitely the favorite in my shop.

What an awesome review! Actually I was looking for a tool that did something else, however I ALMOST bought your saw just because you gave such a great description of what this could do. I had no idea of the complexity and techniques to cut pipe --- clear, practical advice. Thanks!!

You've probably seen one of these Milwaukee portable band saws around on various job sites for years. The 6232-6 is Milwaukee's kit number for the 6230 variable-speed, deep-cut band saw with a blow molded plastic storage case.
I bought the 6230 band saw for the same reasons that everbody else does, to cut steel strut, pipe and conduit. Although it doesn't cut nearly as fast as a chop saw, this tool does have certain advantages over and above even the best chop saws. The most obvious being that you can bring this tool to the work as opposed to bringing the work to the tool. It also doesn't require dedicated space and the ampere draw is much lower for generator-powered job sites.
It has the capacity to handle up to 4" heavy-wall rigid conduit or black iron pipe and it's heck of a lot faster than a hacksaw or pipe cutter. It also makes a much cleaner, straighter cut. The variable-speed switch makes it easier to start a cut and to control the saw throughout the entire cut than with the older style two-speed models, especially when cutting thin wall material like EMT or softer materials like brass.
The 44-7/8" X �" X .020 blade runs at up to 350 FPM, and good quality bi-metal blades are relatively inexpensive at a little under six dollars apiece. They do last a fairly long time when cutting mild steel, but for cutting thicker material, stainless steel or hardened tool steel, it makes sense to spend a little extra and get a true cobalt blade such as the Morse cobalt varied-pitch 10-14 TPI or else you'll be replacing bi-metal blades every few minutes. The saw comes with one 14 TPI bi-metal blade installed. I wouldn't recommend buying regular carbon steel blades because they don't last very long at all and the better bi-metal blades are usually only a few cents more in price anyway.
A good dark cutting oil will help keep blades alive when cutting steel, but you probably don't want to use a wax based stick lubricant on the edges of the blade if you can avoid it because the build up can cause the tools rubber edged drive wheel to loose it's grip, letting the blade slip off right in the middle of a cut. This usually causes the blade to become kinked, requiring it to be discarded. You won't find any reference to this in the owners manual, but it has happened to me a few times over the years.
Blade changes are fast and easy, just release the tensioning lever, remove the old blade, feed the new blade through the guide and rollers, then move the tensioning lever back to the lock position. There is also a storage space for a few spare blades in the tools plastic storage case. I'm not sure why, but for some reason Milwaukee hasn't added the quick-lock cord to their portable band saws.
Overall, the 6230 is very well made and has always proven to be very durable. If you have a need to cut various metal materials in the field frequently, I would say that this tool pretty much recommends itself.

My experience with portable band saws started with an earlier version of the Milwaukee 6230 (the 6230 and the 6232-6 are the same model) and it was the two speed model. That two speed model worked very well in cutting Uni-Strut and rigid conduit. My only problem with the saw was that it had two speeds, low and high. The low speed was ok, but you could not "ease" into the cut or switch into high while cutting.

When my electrical job was done I sold that saw and used an abrasive chop saw for a long time for cutting conduit and Uni-Strut. While at a job site I saw a guy with a Milwaukee 6230 Deep Cut Band Saw. It was a variable speed saw and what appeared to be a slightly larger capacity cut. I tried it and it would start at a crawl and go to full speed (and any speed in between) by pulling the trigger. I was hooked! I had to get one.

The chop saw was fine except that it was loud, threw sparks everywhere and the cut often left a large sharp burr that had to be filed or ground down. The portable band saw could do everything I needed to do and then some. It was also quiet, did not pull a lot of power (current out of an electrical outlet) when cutting, did not leave a large burr after cutting, and it sliced through Uni-Strut, conduit, re-bar, all thread rod, and anything else metal, like a hot knife through butter.

The Milwaukee 6230 quickly became my favorite cut off tool. The name plate on the tool says 6230. The kit I bought was called the 6232-6 and the saw came with a 14 TPI (teeth per inch) bi-metal blade and a plastic carry case. The cutting capacity for round stock is 4-3/4" and square stock of 4-3/4" x 4-3/4". It operates on 120 volts AC only and has a range of 0-350 feet per minute (no load speed) on the blade and the motor draws 6 amps. This saw uses a 44-7/8" x 0.020" x �" blade.

Blades: A discussion about them is in order. In general you should try to have 6 to 12 teeth in contact with the material when using a bi-metal blade and cutting metal. More teeth per inch is required for thin, hard or if the finish is important. Blades with more teeth per inch are required when cutting soft or thick material. These are rules of thumb and you'll have to experiment a little to see what works best in your job.

A variable pitch blade has teeth that vary from (let's use a 14-18 TPI blade) 14 teeth per inch to 18 teeth per inch. The varying tooth sizes and gullet depth changes over a predetermined distance and then repeats. Teeth are set left and right with a single straight tooth called a "raker" tooth used to help maintain a straight cut. The design of the variable tooth pitch cuts down (no pun intended) on the "harmonic" frequency of the cut. In other words, the variable tooth blade design does not vibrate or chatter as much (or at all) while cutting when compared to a fixed pitch blade. Since a variable tooth blade has teeth at 14, 15, 16, 17 and 18 TPI, it can handle a larger range of material thicknesses without having to change blades.

Milwaukee makes several fine blades and the one I use the most is a variable tooth blade 14-18 TPI bi-metal blade. This blade will handle just about any sort of sawing job around whether it may be a solid or hollow stock, or a combination material such as bonded electrical conduit with a plastic outer jacket and a steel/copper spiral wound tube in the middle.

Using the saw is a breeze. Align the blade where you want to make your cut, taking care to put the saw rest against the work and then squeeze the trigger. As the cuts progresses you can increase the saw speed. Changing blades is about a one minute job. You unplug the saw, flip the tension handle, remove the old blade, install the new blade with the teeth pointed to the back of the saw, guide the blade into the grooves and then flip the tension lever back. It's as easy as that.

While this saw is meant to be used free hand, it's not a scroll saw to cut out intricate patterns. It's also not nearly powerful enough to cut through some of the heavy wall materials but... it does have a place at your home or the jobsite. If you are cutting �" and smaller re-bar, Uni-strut, conduit, copper or steel tubing or shapes, and the like, this is the saw. I have only made a few cuts on 3" solid steel and it cut through it pretty quickly all things considered. Would I want to do that all day long? No. You'll need a bigger saw. But this is the saw I'll reach for when I need to made overhead cuts as it is light enough to do that. I did not weight the saw but I'll guess it weighs around 15 pounds.

The speed control is a small knob located on the trigger of the saw. Turning it will make the saw run from the slowest speed to the maximum speed of that setting. This saw does not have a "lock-on" switch. It would be handy for the longer cuts but it is not much of an issue for me.

Also, Milwaukee makes a stand for this saw with a clamp to make precise cuts and it works very well.

Warranty. Milwaukee is offering a 5 year warranty on the saw so ownership costs should be very low.

What would I change? I wish Milwaukee would go back to the "Quick Loc" cord they have used on their many other corded tools such as their Sawzall or Right Angle Drills. My cord has become damaged and you have to take the handle apart to change out the cord. Again a minor gripe on my part.

Would I buy another 6230 again? Yes!

The worm drive saw is geared (no pun intended) to a very specific customer, the pro. I've used several different worm drives, including Black & Decker (now DeWalt), Skil, and of course Milwaukee. This model, while a very good model, has a few flaws. I've never used one that didn't leak a little around the spindle lock button. This is ok as long as you remember to check the oil level, but that doesn't happen often enough in the real world. The start-up torque is excessive, compared to other models. And the shoe does not run parallel to the blade, making it difficult to use an edge guide for straight rips. With proper care, it is a very good saw. The 15 amp motor gives you more than enough power to cut through almost anything. But I would not buy this one again, I'd go with the Skil HD77M.

Just pick this bad boy up and you know you've got something heavy duty. Even the cord is huge! Easily twice as thick as any other saw I've used. At fifteen amps we are maxed out on power input. All this beef comes at a price. It's pretty heavy. But some times the extra weight comes in handy , like when you are cutting off rafter tails from above.Or stand a 2x12 on edge and cut down through it. The saw just walks itself across the board. The tough fiberglass reinforced nylon body really takes the abuse . The warranty is like no other. LIFETIME baby! If you run over it, you pay for the repair. If it ever fails due to parts or workmanship , Milwaukee pays. No body stands behind their power tools like that. No body. Now to be fair I have to say that warranty aside ,I prefer the Skil mag 77. First, it's a few pounds lighter. The worm gear is a little smoother. At 13 amps it is rated at less power. BUT! In toolpigs tool test The skil Whooped everything else in time trial ripping in 2x douglas fir by a couple of seconds.(Tools tested; This Milwaukee ,Skil mag 77 13A , Dewalts 378g hypoid framing saw 15A, Porter Cable 843 blade left framers saw 15A, Makita 5277B hypoid saw 14A We used brand new Marathon blades in all saws. At the time we were sure that the Milwaukee would take top honors. We were disappointed. Time after time the skil came out on top. Even after changing blades around and changing operators. What's a second or two ? We just had to know. Still this is a mean saw. If you need something that is over built this is your saw. You will never wear this tool out. Sure you might drop it off a roof or smash it with a fork lift but you're not going to wear it out.

WHEN YOU SEE A TOOL THAT'S RED AND GRAY YOU AUTOMATICALLY KNOW IT'S THE BEST, IT'S A MILWAUKEE. THE MILWAUKEE TOOL WILL REGULARLY HAVE MORE POWER, BE MORE EVENLY BALANCED WHICH MAKES THE JOB EASIER, AND LAST LONGER THAN OTHER COMPARABLE TOOLS MADE BY OTHER COMPANIES. THE THING I LIKE THE MOST ABOUT THE MILWAUKEE WORM DRIVE CIRCULAR SAW, COMPARED TO OTHER BRAND NAMES, IS THAT IT DOESN'T JERK WHEN YOU FIRST START CUTTING. IT HAS GREAT BALANCE AND MECHANICAL ENGINEERING. IT MAKES A SMOOTHER, MORE EVEN STARTING CUT. THE MILWALKEE WORM DRIVE CIRCULAR SAW IS ALSO MORE DEPENDABLE. WE AVERAGE BUILDING 12 - 14 HOUSES A YEAR. WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT BUYING A NEW SAW EVERY TWO OR THREE HOUSES WITH THIS ONE. BUYING DEPENDABILITY SEEMS A LITTLE HIGHER AT FIRST BUT REALLY ADDS UP TO BIG SAVINGS OVER THE YEAR. I'VE WORKED IN CONSTRUCTION FROM AGE 17 TO 57. IN THESE 40 YEARS I'VE FOUND MOST UNION AND NON UNION WORKERS USE THE RED AND GRAY BECAUSE THEY KNOW IT'S THE BEST.

Once again, Milwaukee delivers a quality tool. This gun is a vast improvement over their older, less balanced screw guns. It fits the hand well, is not overly heavy, and runs screws into either wood or metal studs without hesitation. The only complaint I have about this one versus the older models is the trigger lock. It's now a recessed button, which is very awkward to operate with one hand. But even the DeWalt's isn't that convenient, so this is my screw gun of choice. Plus, it has a 5 year limited warranty, which none of the competition can touch.

This is a plain, bare bones screw gun for drywall installation.

It has a soft start feature that helps the motor last longer since some people rather pull the trigger for every screw they shoot.
People who do tons of drywall just lock the trigger and keep driving one screw after the other.

It's designed to shoot screws in all day. Nothing fancy, no clutch, just a depth stop.

I actually use my clutched cordless drill for most drilling and general screwing. I only break this out for drywall. It has the advantage of being lighter weight with pretty decent balance.

If you're going to screw into something that's maybe questionable in strength might benefit from a clutched drill or a clutched screw gun or just going slow with this. These screw guns are really fast and since they're foremost intent is screwing into wood or steel studs having that type of adjustability really isn't required.

This is about the least expensive, no frills way to go for a screwgun and a brand that's been making these for a very long time. It's a good dedicated drywall screw gun.

For decks I might use a clutched gun or just one of the slower rpm screw guns that are geared for more torque to drive longer, fatter screws.

The Milwaukee drywall screwdriver is a priceless tool if you've got a job bigger than 1 sheet. The depth settings are convienient and have good granularity of adjustment. You may have to try a couple of brands of bits however. I've found that the bits with ridges on the blade faces work best. They allow you to be slightly off 90 degress (perp. to the wall surface) without camming out. The rubber finger grips on the top of the Milwaukee make it comfortable to handle. It's well balanced and powerful. It takes a few practice screws to get the hang of it but it's by all means worth the (money). You'll use it every chance you get!

I owned a 10 year old Black and Decker 1/4 sheet palm sander that was very loud, very dusty, and very prone to vibration. I mainly only use my belt sander and random orbital sander anyway, but there are those times when a 1/4 sheet sander is still the best tool for the job. So, I bought the B&D FS600G (which is the same as this unit, except it has a gel grip and no case) as a replacement. First I will start with the good stuff:

1. This sander is a bit quieter than my old one, but not much.

2. The vibration on this unit is minimal, but I like the model FS600G with the gel grip better!

3. The dust collection works decently, and is of course a vast improvement for me since my old sander had no dust collection.

4. It is very affordable!

5. A case is always nice to have!

I guess what I am saying is that for what it is, this is not a bad sander at all.

Now for the few drawbacks...

1. This sander came with a separate plastic jig to use for punching the dust collecting holes into your sandpaper. I really wish there were another way to accomplish this since the jig never seems to be handy and/or where the sander is.

2. Although it IS quieter than my last palm sander, this thing is still uncomfortably loud.

3. The on/off switch is located in a perfect spot, but I wish it were not so recessed. Sometimes I have to fiddle around trying to get the thing on or off.

Overall, I am pleased with the quality of this tool. There are of course nicer sanders on the market but for the price this one cannot be beat!

I received one of these as a Christmas present and liked it so much I bought one for a friend as a gift. Runs smooth, is easy to use and just all around excellent. Great value for the money.

I bought this because with three cats and a baby, I don't want to be hauling out the big vacuum all the time. It works on carpets as well as bare floors. (I use it to get cat litter and pet hair out of the carpet and off the kitchen floor.) After about a year of use, the rotor brush started to die, so yesterday I bought an Oreck Cord-Free Electrikbroom Quick Stick thinking that might work better and last longer. I returned it today. The debris that it pulls up gets spit right back onto the floor you just cleaned. I am sticking with my Eureka The Boss and will buy a new one when the rotor brush goes for good.

I have owned two of these. The vac itself lasts several years even when used everyday. The battery only lasts about one year if used everyday. I recommend buying an extra battery to have on hand or alternating the use of each battery. The beater brush is the first part to break in the vac. I really do love this little vac. Would be lost without one.
More powerful than any other cordless vac on the market.