Lubricants Reviews

This is one of the best sander I've used.

I own fabrication shop and use many sanders like makita and porter-cable. If you are planning to use the sander more than 8 hours a day, then it is it.

the only downside is (1) it is 30 percent heavier than the other (2) a lot of noise (3) some of the accessories are made in plastic. Older model were made with ALL metal.

It's a sad day for the trusty ole Porter Cable 504 Locomotive Sander. I just heard that Black & Decker/Dewalt bought Porter Cable, and as part of the restructuring, discontinued the 504 worm drive belt sander. Folks this was the best belt sander ever made. The design goes back decades, and was made in Jackson, TN. Dewalt's president John Schiech said in an interview "...Porter Cable/Delta showed that while these brands are strong and highly respected, their product lines were suffering from lack of investment and specifically innovation, which is a strong suit of our company." I guess Dewalt/B&D's idea of "investment & innovation" is to import more junk from China. It looks like the legendary 725 worm drive Porta Band Saw may be next on the chopping block, most dealers are currently out of stock. Call or write Black and Decker and voice you opinion to keep Porter Cable as we know it and these great old tools alive.

I have been a woodworker and finish carpenter for thirty years.There is simply no comparison between this sander and all of the lesser pieces on the market.The weight of this sander is an asset when sanding flat work.The belts can be changed quickly.I have never seen one break.If there is any drawback,it may be the lack of a dust collection system.So,wear a respirator.This sander makes it worth it.

I have been using mostly to keep my miter slots and table saw fence well lubricated. It does an excellent job.

It looks like a denser version of petroleum jelly and a little goes a long way. This one quart will last me most of the year, if not longer.

You should be able to use it in most any application that requires lubrication. Its also touted as a rust protectant, but I've been using the Boeshield Rust Prevention product for that.

A little dab will do ya. Go ahead and try it.

It has been a constant uphill battle to keep the cast iton surfaces of my tools (my table saw, band saw, sander, scrollsaw and jointer) from rust. It is just too humid down here in Houston, Texas.

To use this product, I did a thorough surface preparation (sanding and buffing), then wiped a coat of the Slipit on the cleaned surface, and voila, I have no rust for the months. I still keep my fingers crossed, but it seems that now and then by wiping on a very thin coat, I manage to keep the cast iron surface of my tools slick and free of rust. It is also economical since the quart of Slipit does go a long way. Give it a try.

This is slick stuff. It applies like a thin car wax, and looks kind of like petrolium jelly. It does not seem to leave any residue, and also seems to remove some of the oxidation on iron surfaces. It applies very easy, and once it's wiped dry, the surface stays slick for quite a while. I find it makes jointing easier, since I can concentrate on holding the piece against the fence and not be struggling to slide it forward. I haven't noticed it leaving anything on the wood. It would probably work well on saw blades too, but I havn't tried that.

I bought this stuff with some doubts. I don't usually believe in chemicals, but I'm sold on this stuff now.

I used this stuff on a Jet table saw, minor surface rust, and wood glides across it like an air-hockey puck. In fact, it's so easy to push the wood I actually have to be careful when I'm setting larger pieces up on the table to cut, they slide toward the blade if you're not watching.

Some featherboards are essential for this, especially if you're used to the friction of the table "helping" you control your cut.

After hearing about the Top Saver from a friend I decided to try the sample pack. All of the products are well worth more then what you pay for them. The top saver removed discolored rings and gave my table saw a lubricated top. What a difference especially when running a sheet of Plywood. The blade saver removed all the pitch from my dado set. The dry lube is great for the mitre gage slide. The opticut works well on several levels keeping the blades cool and lubricated. The kit comes with cleaning pads and is fool proof.

I have to say I am very happy with the TopSaver,I used it 6 months ago to clean up my 14" band saw. And today it still looks like the day I cleaned it. I saw this Toolsaver kit with the small sample size bottles from the same company, the more I looked at it the more it made sice to try it.

I used the BladeSaver product to clean my 10" table saw blade;It worked like nothing I have ever seen before! the build up just melted and ran off the blade almost instantly with no smell. I then tried the Dri-Tool Lubricant;I sprayed it on the fence guides and miter track on my bandsaw table, they now move alot easier!
I then tried the OptiCut-XL cutting Lubricant? I sprayed it on the band saw blade while running.I don't know what makes this work but it really made a diffrence when cutting a piece of particle board with plexie glass plastic on it. You could hear the saw cut quieter and it was easier to feed. I then tried it on piece of old hardend hickory; I was amazed at how it cooland well the blade cut! for the first time there was no burn smell or black marks on my turning stock. OptiCut really works!
As for the Router Bit Lubricant, I have been using the RBL for a few years now, It is a fantastic product! With RBL my router makes less noise and produces a nice smooth finish, with less fuzz and no burn marks on my wood. I like that the RBL now has a finger spray top. Over the smaller glue like tip on my other RBL bottle, it is now easier to spray the bit while using my router table.

Over the years I have tried many products and home mixtures to lubricate and clean my tools. I have to admit none worked as well as the products in ToolSaver sampler. If you are serious about your woodworking tools ToolSaver is for you.*****!

Cuts aluminum like wood. Be careful though. Your miter saw instructions will generally give you precautions to follow so that a given blade doesn't catch the metal (the piece that is cut off) and shoot it like a bullet off the back side of the saw. I didn't read/follow my saw's instructions (so learned this the hard way).

Cuts nice and clean with no vibration or gouging. I do custom shower and glass barrier system installations. I like this 72 tooth blade because with care I can use it to cut both thin and thick extrusions and you don't need a large powerful miter saw which means I can save space on the truck.

The Freud LU89M series is a great blade. Period. If you've ever cut aluminum with your table or miter saw using a blade designed for wood you know how scary it is. The teeth are not designed for metal and it's very touchy. At any moment the metal can bind, overhead, kick back or throw a tooth. Wood blades are too aggressive for aluminum.

I needed to cut some thick aluminum stock (1/4" and 1-1/2") so I picked up a 10" LU89. Cuts like a dream. Very smooth, very safe. I did install a zero-clearance throat plate on the table saw and clamped the metal to the sliding miter so it wouldn't move, but what excellent cuts! Be sure to wear good eye and ear protection: chips fly. Lubricate the blade with WD-40 or other liquid metal lube (they say the blade won't clear chips if you use a wax lube) and it will just sing. It's like working with a mill.

I look forward to having this quality on my compound miter saw to cut aluminum extrusion for closet door hardware, shower doors and door thresholds.

I recently saw this product recommended on "Ask This Old House." I've been very impressed! I've used it on everything from the rollers on my garage door to the drawers on my antique dressers. It has a number of benefits, it stays where you put it, it's non-toxic, and made in the US. On the downside I had trouble finding it in the retail stores.

I recently saw this product recommended on "Ask This Old House." I ordered a sampler pack from the company's webite, slipit.com. I've been very impressed! I've used it on everything from the rollers on my garage door to the drawers on my antique dressers. It has a number of benefits, it stays where you put it, it's non-toxic, and made in the US. On the downside I had trouble finding it in the retail stores.

I tried Slip it for a release agent on a paper mache project and it worked great! Left no greasy film like other products I have tried.
I am sure I will find more uses for this product.
I like that Slip It is non toxic and I can feel comfortble using it.
THANKS!

This system is truely the best auxillary power tool I have ever owned. It has literly made my blades, chisels, gouges and scrapers razor sharp and absolutely consistent. Hand sharpening is for the birds or masochists. Now I can touch up a dull gouge in less han a minute and have a perfectly contoured, razor sharp tool and get right back to work. Although it's great for chisels the Tormek system really shines for Lathe tools and planer/jointer blades. Best investment I ever made.

As an amateur woodworker, chef, and handyman around the house, the value I place on sharp tools can not be understated. That being said, there are few comprehensive options out there for sharpening all of your tools with one system. The Tormek SuperGrind is the solution. After unpacking the system, I proceded to sharpen all of my kitchen knives to a razor's edge, with ease. Previously I had to bring all of my knives to the sharpening center and pay $ dollars for the service. Those days are gone! I can now sharpen my wive's turning tools, my chisels and plane irons, even my jointer blades with one easy to use system. It makes experts out of novices, I can't praise this system enough. Buy the Tormek, expensive but worth it.

My tool sharpening career began 20 years ago when I bought a few Norton oilstones. Never could master them so I upgraded to Japaneese waterstones with fair results, but a messy chore I detested. Bought Diamond stones to flatten the backs, a lapping stone with dust, and next a bench grinder. I could sharpen a blade already ground to the correct angle but forget about re-edging an angle on the grinder, blue edges every time! Bought different wheels for the grinder, same results. Next went to the Makita flat circular grinding wheel but the wheel was so soft, hard to keep it flat. Next read about a jig for the grinder and another new softer stone that would not burn edges as well as an angle devise to hold the blades at correct angles on the handstones. Bought a few new handstones, synthetic, ant tried all of these with fair results. Over the past 20 yeats I figure I must have about $1000 invested in all of this equipment (let me know if you want to buy it) and I still detested the sharpening thing. Could do plane blades and chisels so-so.
I heard about the Tormek system and read the amazon reviews (which sold me)and decided to give it a try. I bought mine through Sharp Tools USA, a business that only sells this system. I splurged and got the deluxe package since buying the individual jigs I needed would have cost the same and I would be missing some jigs. Everything they say is true. [anyone] can become a professional sharpener. I beg friends to bring their tools and knives and scissors to me. Instead of detesting the job, I now love sharpening. The only bad thing about the system is that a few scratches on the bevel remain that I guess you could lap out on the leather wheel, but these do not make a difference to me. All of my blades are now razor sharp, and in fact I don't have any hair left on my left arm from test shaving after each sharpening.
I sure wish I knew about the Tormek system 20 years ago. Instead of spending over $1000 I would have spent several hundreds less and not had to go through the hours of frustration trying to sharpen my tools. Yes, the most expensive item is often the cheapest in the long run!

I have tried various products to protect my cast iron and steel tool table surfaces and this is by far the most effective. Spray liberally onto the surface, let it soak it for a few minutes and wipe the excess off. The Boeshield (invented by Boeing for aircraft use) has kept my power tools rust-free for two years now.

I have been using this oil for more than 20 years. I was extremely disappointed when Garrett Wade quit carrying it, and I was elated when my wife found it on Amazon. This is far and away the absolute best oil I have ever used. It is not only great for honing, cleaning, and keeping tools rust-free, it works incredibly well for getting off the inadvertent rust on bench and floor tool milled surfaces. A little camelia, a little 000 steel wool, and voila! Back in business. You can't go wrong with this stuff.

I got the coarse/x-fine combo because I needed the coarse side for cleaning up the stones I have, and the x-fine side for further honing after my 600-grit stone. Definitely worth it, and the large size makes it easy to handle chsiels, plane blades, other stones, and so forth.

Diamond stones cut a lot faster than oilstones, and the extra fine side puts an excellent edge on my planer and chisels. After flattening other stones, I used the coarse side to quickly lap the back of a couple blades I am tuning. Pricey for a sharpening stone, but they really work great.

I use this drill for jewelry making and am thrilled with it. I don't use the Dremel bits, as they don't suit my needs, but Dremel is an old company and they stand behind their product. Their bits are fine for standard drilling. Check around for the best price.