Cordless Tools Reviews

There was not enough of a description to say there was a battery charger included. As a result, I purchased a separate battery charger and ended up with 2 of them.
Love the drill however.

I was looking for a cordless with more power than my old one. This one has plenty of power for the around the house jobs that I'll be using it for. It fits comfortably in my hand and is well balanced. I can even set it down on its battery pack area and it doesn't fall down. I would recommend it to any home owner.

I have the earlier version of this drill and when the batteries went kaput, I found I could buy a new drill with two batteries and a charger for about the same price of just replacing the batteries(what a gimmick!) for my old drill. This DC727KA is lighter than the old one, gets into tighter places and the chuck works great! I have a Grizzly drill that's similar, also 12V, but I've had trouble with the chuck staying tight ever since it was new. I guess that's the difference between paying $69 and $119. I've used the drill quite a bit for both screwing and drilling and it can't be beat. I'm extremely satisfied with my purchase. I just can't figure out a good use for the heavy duty plastic case it came in. What ever happened to the great metal ones?

I received this drill in like new condition. Except for the R on the top I would not be able to tell it was reconditioned. I used it to build a deck and screwed everything that could be screwed and could not run down a battery before the other one was recharged and ready to go. I would recomend it to anyone in the market for a good tool at a good price.

I have just purchased this Dewalt dw953k drill from mazon.com.
I have not yet received it but would like to mention my experience with dewalt Recon tools. These tools are new from the factory and have not been in use in the field. Dewalt and other manufacturers test and inspect all there tools at the end of the manufacturing process. If by chance they find any abnormality in the operation or generaly missing parts they are rejected and sent back into assembly for correction of the fault.
At this point they mark them with the R and repackage them for sale. Very rarely are these tools ever known to have been used by anyone other than factory quality control personel.
I have two other Dewalt recon tools a DW974 12volt cordless drill 7 years old and a DW628 3-1/2 HP router 6years old. Both are still in great operating condition and used everyday.
Peter Legault

I use this drill extensively at work, and it's great. It has been dropped, rained on, buried in dust, used at full power through 3 batteries non-stop, and generally abused on a daily basis. It just keeps going with no problems. The drill I got from Amazon was in blemish-free, like-new condition with the exception of the 'R' branded on the top to denote a reconditioned tool. The keyless chuck seems to have been updated from the one I've used, since it 'clicks' when tightening, much like a torque wrench. You can find the same thing as this for 90 bucks more at Home Depot (and that's without the extra battery), so this is a good deal.

Each of these tools has performed exceptionally. The reciprocating saw and especially the blower go through battery life quicker than I expected, but the circular saw seemed to go much longer than I expected on a single battery. I built 70 feet of wood fence last week and used the circular saw to notch the posts for the cross members, rip a couple fence planks to size and other assorted cuts, and a single battery lasted the entire job and was still working full steam! Even though the battery time was more than ample even for the reciprocating saw and blower, I would get at least one extra if you are going to use these tools moderately. After reading reviews on the blower, I feel compelled to comment. I installed two exterior doors a few days after receiving this combo kit and kept the blower at close reach to keep the work surface area clear of debris. I patched about a hundred feet of cracked concrete and used the blower to clean inside and along the cracks before applying the patching mix. After finishing with my router table, I used the blower to clean all the chips and dust away (while outside). These are the kinds of jobs I believe this blower was made for, and it excels at them. My six-year-old son putters around with the blower while we work on things, and I noticed the other day he successfully cleaned the entire garage floor working around all obstacles. We usually use brooms and the air compressor, but this blower was much easier to use and did a better job. My opinion of this kit is beyond exceptional.

I will try not to bore you, or to "plug" the Makita brand. I am giving you my personal opinion as per my experience over the past 2 years.
A little background...I am a carpenter/remodeler and work with a friend of mine. We have alot of Makita in our trailer, as well as other brands, like Dewalt, Porter Cable, Craftsman, Bosch, David White, etc. As you can see, we are not partial to one brand. We try to buy the best we can find, at a price we are willing to pay. Being professionals, we are less inclined to worry about price, and more concerned in quality and ease of use features.

As with all tools...do your homework. Ask valuable questions and answer them honestly. Do YOU really need 18 volts, or are you trying to better your neighbor? Do you NEED a cordless hammer drill?

Me..? Yes I do. If you read my review on the DK1052DL kit (here in Amazon) you will get alot of info on the 6347 M-Force drill, 5620 Circ saw (my favorite), and the JR180 Recip saw. I love that kit and stand by it. The reason I bought this kit is simple to me. After having great experiences with the DK1052, I wanted a hammer drill but really needed the jig saw. The best price I could find was $270 and $299 respectivly. Buying the complete kit is really the only choice. Granted, 2 batteries aren't always enough for me (which before is why I bought a 6347D drill kit in addition), but for a homeowner/enthusiast it's a great kit.

The recip-saw that came with this DK1032 has a different, updated blade holder than my other one. This one has a "knob/collar" that you turn to release the blade, which stays in the "released" position after the blade "pops" out. All you do is stick another blade in, and the collar rotates to the lock position. Nice feature. We'll see how it holds up. The older one I have has a "slide" lever, which works fine, even though it has been loaded up with drywall dust.

The Circ saw is excellent (see my review of the DK1052). Another person had commented on not being able to make great miter cuts when building a deck. Don't try to do it freehand. This is a circular saw, not a miter saw. By the time you set up a jig in order to get a clean, straight line, you can have the cut done on a miter saw. This saw is like any other circ saw...it will cut where you point it...it will get off line when you do. When you have a sharp blade in it, it will cut until the battery dies.

The drill impressed me when I first saw it. Same weight as my 6347. Basically the same type of clutch torque setting too. I like this drill better than some others, because of the 2 rings by the chuck. One is the torque ring, and the other is the drive/drill/hammer ring, which can be changed independantly of the torque ring. Some other drills, you have to rotate the torque ring all the way from a torque number to drill then to hammer. With the 8443, you can go right to hammer from the torque setting you want to use for that fastener. It doesn't spin as fast as a corded drill, but it's a cordless, it's not going to.

The jig saw is great too. I've used it to cut steel studs, sink openings, fiber cement board, etc. The Ridgid cordless jig saw we have on board has a better tool-less blade change than the Makita. It has a springed lever (much nicer) where Makita has a clamp style. The Makita has a knob on top, you have to slide into the "activate" position, turn to open the jaws, insert the blade, turn to tighten, and then slide the knob into the "deactive" position. It does hold the blade tight, and the knob doesn't get in the way when done correctly, but the Ridgid can be change in about 5 seconds, and the Makita takes a little longer. But the Makita has tool-less base plate positioning, and can be moved back to allow a closer cut to an edge (ie...cutting a floor up close to a wall).

Next..the blower. Yes it seems a little goofy to have, but it's there...might as well use it. I don't use it often, but it does come in handy. Example is when we finished a deck recently, we used it to blow the saw dust off before the customer saw the deck. It was easier than dragging the shop-vac out. I've also used it when doing a filter service/clean on a furnace.

Lastly...I don't think there is any skimping going on with the tools. These are the exact same things you get if you buy them separatly. The only difference is you don't get a case for each individual tool, or additional batteries and chargers.
If you want a great all around kit...Definatly consider this one. The price is right for all the tools you get. And they are excellent tools. Remember, these are cordless tools. They cannot, and should not be expected to, do jobs that require a heavy duty corded tool. VERY few cordless tools can. Do your homework.

This toolkit is absolutely wonderful. I'm especially impressed with the drill and the jigsaw. I use the drill all of the time. The blower isn't good for much, but other than that this toolset is the kit to have. However, it only comes with two batteries, i've bought more since, because 5 tools with 2 batteries doesn't go very far, even though the batteries last longer than any i've ever seen.

So far, this router meets all my expectations; it's precise, reasonably quiet, and particularly suited for use in a router table. The only thing that bugs me is the cutting depth adjustment screw: why 5 turns per inch? Either 4 or 8 turns would make a lot more sense, and make it much easier to set a specific cutting depth from a "zero" start. However, I like the tool well enough that I guess I'll learn to live with this quirk.

Great tool very powerful .A little heavy but very well made compared to other companies out there.Iwould highly recommend this tool to anyone who does a lot of router work.

I recently purchased the 5616-20 router. As I was waiting for it to be shipped I read some reviews that had me concerned. It seems that under the table mounting was not allowing room for the collect wrenches. When I received my router I proceeded with the task of mounting it to my table. Mine being a homemade table with a �" aluminum plate meant that it was necessary to drill mounting holes. Which interfered with the existing holes. So I rotated the mount by 90 degrees. This put the opening for the "T" wrench up front and allows me to utilize both front and back wrench openings from either side to change collects. Making it an easy job. I am 100% satisfied with the performance of this router.

I bought this model about 6 months ago and am impressed with its ergonomics,weight, and decent power. I was looking for a new cordless to add to my collection of drills and narrowed my choices down to this drill and the 12 volt Makita 6217DWDEX. The Panosonic is about a 1/4 lbs lighter- at 4 pounds, has a 1/2" chuck versus a 3/8" chuck, and comes with 3amp ni-mh batteries versus 2.6 amp ni-mh for the Makita. Why a 12 volt? Because of weight. What's been happening to cordless drills over the last 2-3 years is ridiculous. The 18 and 24 volt models are now weighing in at around six pounds, are a foot long,and cost twice as much as a good quality high amp corded drill. Torque? How much do you need? More on that later. Anyway, let's talk about this Panasonic drill.
The build quality is excellent. The seams line up perfectly, decals are put on straight, and there were no flaws in its apperance. The grip on this drill is made of a "grippy" rubber which prevents slippage if your hands are sweaty. This "grippy" rubber handle runs up the back of the drill. This could provide a little bit of cushioning protection if you accidentally drop the drill onto a hard surface. The 1/2" keyless ratcheting chuck grips bits very tightly. I haven't had any round shank drills spin on me. I checked the run out of the chuck with a gauge pin and Starrett test indicator and obtained a reading of .004" runout. Quite acceptable for a hand held drill. The 3 amp batteries have ventilation slots in the bottom. This is an important feature because the number one enemy of batteries is heat. Excessive heat will kill batteries. This heat is generated when recharging batteries or if the tool is under a very heavy load. The battery life is excellent so far. I've driven over 300 number 12 screws, 2", on a single charge into treated deck lumber. I've also used a 1 inch spade drill to drill through several 2" thick floor joists and the drill hasn't bogged down. One thing I did notice is that the drill handle gets hot under extended use. The battery doesn't get hot, just the handle and the bottom of the drill housing. This concerns me a little. Heat kills motors eventually. I'll have to keep an eye on this. The batteries have an excellent "shelf life." I've left one of my batteries in the case without charging it for 4 months and it still has a strong charge.
On to rpm, torque, and the clutch. This drill like most has two speed ranges-low, up to 400rpm and high, up to 1300rpm. The trigger on this drill is average. What I mean is that once the trigger is depressed about 2/3rds of the way the drill kicks into maximum rpm. I would like to have a more sensitive trigger. This is my only major complaint about the operation of this drill. By the way, the electric brake on this drill is fabulous! It stops the drill so quickly that the drill actually twitches in your hand when you release the trigger. It's instantaneous! There are 18 clutch settings. The clutch collar clicks solidly when adjusting the clutch and doesn't jump out of position. The torque rating on this drill is advertised to be 293 in. pounds in low gear with the clutch locked out. This is wrong! The actual torque is 199 in. lbs. The 293 in. lbs. is what Panasonic calls its "free load" torque. This "free load" torque is based on mathematical calculations that consider the gear train, magnets in the motor, electrical motor efficiency, and amperage provided by the batteries. It's a theoretical measurement. Under load-when work is actually being done- the actual torque is about 30% less than the advertised torque. What! Don't worry, Dewalt, Makita, Bosch, and Milwaukee, all the premium brands, advertise in the same manner. It's deceptive and unethical (part of the "torque war" that's going on right now), but helps to explain why when a group of 12volt, or 14.4 volt, or 18 volt drills are tested, they are all nearly identical in performance. Some may drill a few more holes, some may drive a few more lag bolts, but the results are pretty close to each other. I knew the torque of this drill was less than advertised before I bought it and wasn't too concerned about it. 199 in lbs. will easily twist the heads off of 10# wood screws if you don't pre drill holes- I've done that. Here's a tip. Whatever the advertised torque is on a cordless drill- subtract 30% from it to get the actual torque. One last comment about torque and this Panasonic. This drill has a feature called "full torque speed control." This means you get the same amount of maximum torque in low range with the clutch locked out no matter how far you depress the trigger. You get the same maximum torque at 70 rpm as you do at 400rpm. This provides great control when driving fasteners. You don't have to "open up" the rpm's to get that extra torque to seat a stubborn screw or lag bolt.
My final conclusion about this drill is that it is well built, lightweight, has enough torque for 95% of your jobs, and has unbelievable battery life. Why lug around a 6 pound 18 volt or 24 volt drill all day when a compact 12 volt will handle almost any fastening or drilling job you encounter? I see a lot of electricians and hvac people use Panasonic 12 volt drills, and I understand why. Nobody wants to stand on a ladder and hold some behemoth drill overhead all day. I would rate this drill as 4- to 4 1/2 stars. I think the trigger should be more sensitive and I am a little concerned about the drill becoming hot under extended use, but I think it has the best combination of weight, ergonomics, battery life, and torque of any compact drill on the market.

This is the best driver/drill out there for a number of reasons such as; it has a sturdy chuck that securely holds even the smallest of bits. I had a Makita previously and with small bits, it would often loosen on it's own-very annoying. It runs very smoothly, has NiMH batteries (don't even bother with something that uses NiCAD), and it's much lighter and easier to hold than the 15.6v version-try holding the 15.6v version above your head for a while and you'll see what I mean.

This Panasonic 12v packs plenty of punch for everything but the most severe industrial jobs. Among those in the know, Panasonic is regarded as the best maker of cordless drivers. The combination of reliabilty, ergonomics and smoothness is why.

This driver is perfect not just for usage around the house as a powerful cordless screwdriver and drill, but it can also quite effectively be used in industrial/contractor situations with no problem at all. I'm a photographer and just used this driver to install frame mounting hardware to the backs of about 100 picture frames for a corporate client and I was extremely pleased every time I reached for it-it's not too heavy, I didn't worry about the chuck coming loose or having the unit fail. I can't say this much about other brands I've owned in the past.

This is an excellent drill. At 12-Volts this Panasonic packs plenty of punch, and maintains constant speed under load. The finish is excellent and all parts fit together snugly. This drill has just the right weight and size, and fits comfortably in your hand. The Panasonic kit comes with two 3.0 amp batteries so you always have one in the ready. My battery lasts a full day with heavy use.

I bought the Panasonic to replace a 12-V Makita. The Panasonic has more power at the same voltage (the 3 amp batteries). Small drill bits will not spin in the chuck!!! The electronic brake is also excellent, althought this can't be good for the brushes. No problems so far.

My only complaint is that the trigger needs to be more sensitive/responsive. It slowly increases RPM's as you depress it, and then goes right to full speed.

Overall, I highly recommend this drill for all general tasks. It will out-perform other 12V drills, and is just the right weight to carry around or for working overhead.

I am a full-time carpenter.

This is a professional quality drill/driver, with metal gears, heavy-duty trigger switch, ratcheting chuck with carbide teeth. It has heft and although some might complain about its weight, anything that generates over 400 in. lbs. of torque and doesn't fall apart after 40 hrs. of hard use HAS to weigh something, right?

I read an April 2005 review on 'premium' vs. 'homeowner' grade cordless drills and was interested to see that in nearly every photo of a disemboweled premium drill, said premium drill was the Porter-Cable. It's built to last.

Here's what to watch out for:

1) If you charge the batteries, then don't use them for a few days, your amp hours will be far lower than if you charge the batteries and use them the same day. I don't get quite as much run time out of the batteries as I would like, but I am doing mean things to my drill, like running a 3/4" x 16" masonry bit in hammer/drill mode and leaning into the poor little drill, driving 1/2" x 12" lag screws into pressure-treated wood, drilling holes through 20 oz. copper and tin in -5˚ weather....and so on. When used for what I imagine is a more appropriate application, like driving sheetrock screws into sheetrock, the batteries last long enough for me to wonder when they'll die so I can take five.

2) The HIGH/LOW switch. Works great, but one day I somehow left it in between settings: i.e., in the middle, not on HIGH or LOW, and the drill made a horrendous racket and would not drive anything to save its life. Convinced the drill was completely shot, I began hunting for the case so I could take it back to Home Depot and give them puppy dog eyes. At some point I noticed that the switch was not engaged in either range, flicked it to LOW and all was right with my world again.

3) Despite the all-metal chuck with carbide jaws, things still fall out of it ocassionally. This and the less-than-an-18v battery time warrants fours stars instead of five. Yes, I really crank on the chuck when tightening a bit. For a 14.4 volt drill that I bought new at Home Depot for $100, I'd give it five stars with no caveats. (Home Depot was discontinuing the line and I got lucky).

A few +s you might not know about:
The drill has an automatic brake, so when you take your finger off the switch the chuck comes to a complete stop. The onboard bit storage is not a gimmick and gets constant use (I usually have a #3 Phillips and square drive bits onboard and a #2 Phillips in the chuck, covering 95% of all driving applications). The charger is a diagnostic, 'smart-charger,' which means it knows to NOT charge when the battery is too cold, too hot, or just plain worn out (haven't seen that yet). And, unlike cheaper drills, there is more heavy-weight copper in this tool than a jug of pennies.

Note: Treat yourself to a DeWalt, Ryobi, Sears--whatever-- quick-release 1/4" bit chuck. You chuck it in the drill and leave it in. Then, use the drill bits, Phillips drivers, etc. that have the notched speed shank and changing bits is lightning-fast--much faster than ratcheting the drill's chuck. I have the DeWalt (because it's bright yellow and I can find it if I drop it, not because it's a DeWalt) and it's been great.

That's about it. This drill has enough torque to sprain your wrist, snap heads off stainless steel deck screws, drive 1.5" spade bits through mahogany, and push big masonry bits into concrete (although using said bits in hammer mode really drained the power, and fast). It won't replace my 1/2" Milwaukee corded drill completely but the Porter Cable is what I reach for 90% of the time. If $ is no object, get the Milwaukee Lok-Tor 18v; it has received top reviews from several trade magazines and will drill more holes on a charge than the Porter-Cable, being 18 volts vs. 14.4. If its chuck is the same as on my corded Milwaukee it holds like a pit bull on a mailman.

I received the drill kit today but haven't had a chance to put it through its paces. I will update this review later with my impressions. The drill seems solidly built, and comes packed in a nice blow-molded plastic case with metal latches. The case is black and has Porter-Cable in bright white "Steal me, I'm expensive!" lettering.

The drill body weighs approx 4.2lbs. With battery pack installed, approx 5.8lbs. The drill measures approx 10-3/4" from the tip of the chuck to the back of the motor shell, and 9-1/2" from the top of the housing to bottom of the battery pack. The pack is the widest part of the assembly and is about 3" wide. The drill is labeled "Assembled in Taiwan." The main label on my drill was a bit scuffed. The included screwdriver bit had come loose during shipping and probably caused the scuffing.

The torque selection ring and gear shift are very stiff but seem to engage positively. When set to hammer mode, the hammer action occurs only when downward pressure is put on the bit. I was expecting a mini jackhammer, but the effect is much more subtle, as if the spindle was riding on detents. There is a separate Drill setting on the ring which bypasses the slip clutch. The ratcheting chuck is made by Rohm and has a very solid metal feel.

The battery release button is somewhat awkward to use. I think it's designed to be released with the pinky finger, but the position and motion are somewhat awkward. The button is flush with the housing to prevent accidental release. The battery slides back to release. The forward/reverse selector can also be placed in the center position to lock the trigger. I suggest doing so before fumbling with the battery or holstering the drill.

I have medium-small hands and found the difference between the 3 GTF inserts to be minor. I selected the medium insert. The inserts are secured by a phillips screw. I think it would be nicer to have inserts with different softness and texture instead. All of the inserts are hard rubber. A sticky gel-like insert might be nice, especially when using the hammer.

The kit includes a threaded side handle which can be installed perpendicularly on either side of the drill just in front of the trigger. The handle is hollow plastic and the threaded portion is zinc-plated metal. The plastic seems a little thin and I would not put my full weight on it during use.

The drill emits a noticeable high pitched noise at low speeds. The manual says that this sound is normal. One feature that my corded drill has is a knob that lets me select the maximum allowable speed. I find it useful and wish that this drill had that feature. The brake works well and stops the chuck as soon as I release the trigger.

The carry case holds the charger, extra battery pack, and side handle. It holds the drill with the pack installed. There is also a compartment for the manual and the GTF inserts. On the lid above the charger, there is a compartment for holding a bit set. The bit compartment has a hinged plastic lid. It is not very deep, but would probably hold one small bit set in its case.

The charger can also charge Porter-Cable 12V batteries. It has keyholes on the back for wall mounting, and a 2-prong power cord. It gets a little warm during charging, but will charge a pack in about an hour. It also has diagnostic features to warn you if the battery is too hot, too cold, or needs replacement. On first use, the charger emitted a strong, plastic odor.

The packs appear to be rebuildable. The top is secured by a set of torx screws, and is available as a spare part. It is a 2 Amp hour NiCd pack. There are 3rd party services that can rebuild it with higher capacity NiMH cells. People also seem to be buying these kits for the packs and chargers and selling the drills as new.

UPDATE: I've been using it to drive Phillips wood screws into aged pine and it is more than powerful enough. In fact, I need to get ACR bits to lessen the stripping of the screw heads. It is a big heavy drill though. I opted for a small tool tote that has a built in drill holster and shoulder strap. It does not have a lanyard loop or anything else that I can easily attach a tether to, and it is too heavy for hanging off the belt and pants.

I have been a remodeling contractor in California since 1979. My crew and I have managed to break or ware out every make of battery drill since then.

This is a real tough drill, with a decent Hammer drill mode , and good batteries and charger that last. Unlike Dewalt. Have droped it a bunch of times and haven't managed to break it in three years, unlike my last Hitachi. I have only had to replace the latches ( with steel ones ) on the case after the plastic ones wore out.

The longest I have ever been able to keep a battery drill is five years, and that was with buying new batteries and a charger.

So we give this one a two thumbs up.

The strap to hold you drill in has only one position and it needs more to hold all drills securely. A strap with velcro would solve this problem.

txtrapper

This holster is handy anytime or anywhere you do lots of drilling or driving. It's also great when you're on a ladder and don't have enough hands. It saves time by keeping your tools right there where you need them. I've used it with cordless and corded tools when hanging electrical boxes and running wire through studs, hanging drywall, and siding work. I like the snapping strap to secure the tool when you're busy with something else. It has slots to hold extra bits and extensions, too. However, I found it works best with smaller drills. I tried this holster on my belt with my big 19.2V PorterCable hammer/drill/driver and it about jerked the pants right off me. It wasn't quite big enough to keep that heavy tool from tipping back and out of the holster. Instead, I use it with a large leather tool belt to put around my middle and that worked out much better by balancing the drill while it hangs. At any rate, I now have no trouble with trying to find a place to set my drills and drivers when doing working in difficult places. And the holster is good for holding other tools too. Thanks, Amazon !!

This is by far the best left-handed holster I have used. The thick padding of the holster keeps the drill securly in place even without the strap. The bit pockets are very handy for pencils(or even screws) as well as bits. Bucket Boss somehow made this durable, comfortable, holster better and cheaper than any other holster I've seen.

I have been waiting years for Dewalt to make an 18V cordless cut-out tool kit like the DC550K. It's great to finally have a cordless version that can utilize the same charger and batteries as my other 18V tools. I bought one of these as soon as they became available online and now use it almost every day on the job. Before the DC550, I was most indignant about having to drag an extension cord along when using my Roto-Zip, as this is the last holdout in a tool collection that I use daily which still required being plugged into an outlet to operate.
I use the DC550 mainly to make cutouts in wood, drywall, plaster and acoustical tile for recessed lighting or electrical boxes. With a carbide burr bit, it will make cutouts in ceramic wall tile, solid surface or laminate backsplashes, but of course, won't cut harder floor tile materials. It also makes clean, splinter free cutouts in solid wood or veneered cabinets, such as when installing an outlet for a microwave/hood over a range or outlets in kitchen island or peninsula base cabinets. I have even used it for cutouts in thin stainless sheet clad walls that are found in commercial kitchens, and it works well on aluminum and vinyl siding too.
Battery life is very good and since the DC550K kit comes with two batteries, you can have one on charge and keep going all day long. The extra length and weight the battery does make this tool slightly less well balanced than the corded version when using it in the horizontal position, but the rubber grip area allows you to hold the tool firmly in various positions and as with anything else, the more you use the tool, the less noticeable this imbalance becomes.
There is no bump switch on top of the tool but the push through type on/off switch sticks out far enough so you can get at easily.
The tool-less quick-change bit holder is the same as on Dewalt's corded cut-out tool. It takes a little getting used to, but is much better than having to use a wrench every time you need to change a cutter bit. At 27,000 rpm's it's not as fast as the corded version but this doesn't really seem to affect its cutting ability. Overall, I feel that the DC550 is a very good tool that can go along way toward making your workday easier and more productive.

This tool has lots of cutting power and runs forever on a battery. It is a little heavy and awkward at some cutting angles. Overall a good tool.

This tool has excellent battery capacity and is easy to handle;
has plenty of cutting power. The only drawback is the tool just slightly heavy.

This is a nice drill and has plenty of power. It doesn't have the smoothness and quality of Makita products. The charger weights hardly anything(cheap?) so I hope it lasts. Porter Cable and Makita are much better in my opinion. I am a handyman so I know what works and lasts. This is the first Dewalt corless tool I have purchased so time will tell.........

I love the compact design with lots of power and smooth operation. I've only had the drill for a couple of months, it's replacing a similar one that has served me well for several years of hard use. So far I'm happy with this one especially the ability to get into tight spaces.

For the everyday around the house activity, this cordless drill is fantastic. Not good for contractors and carpenters but great for the average do-it-yourselfer homeowner.

It is hard to beat the value you get in this set. It contains most of the bits you would need and want. I thought it was odd however that while it contains both metric and english sockets it only has english hex keys. If your a bicyclist like me you know how important metric Allen keys are. The entire set is well layed out and labled

this set is a great value. it comes with every kind of bit you can imagine. they are not the strongest bits in the world but they are pretty tough and for the price you cant go wrong. the case is great too. all the bits have a marked spot both size and what kind of bit it is. very well thought out. if you need screwdriver bits dont wast your money buying 1 or 2 at a time get this set.

I think this is a tool that everyone must have at home, in a perfect case and well organiced.