Drills Reviews

If these clamps are used as their design is intended (gluing up cabinet, drawer, etc joints), they perform adequately. The thumbscrew works just fine for applying the desired pressure. The adjustable head moves freely and effortlessly IF the bar is clean. Be sure to immediately remove any glue drippings that finds its way to the bar or the next time you go to move the head it will hang up. I used these clamps in gluing up a 2x4 laminated workbench top. This operation stretched them (and then some) to the maximum of their capability. Multiple clamps spaced closely together were required to press the bow out of some of my pieces. In retrospect, a heavier duty �" Pony clamp would have been better fitted for this particular job. But if you use these within their limits, they will perform for a long time.

I have four of these clamps and I need about eight more. When it comes to achieving a strong solid glue joint, good clamping is absolutely essential. These clamps are easy to use with the sliding clamp head and can apply a strong pressure to the piece you're gluing. You can put a wood shim under the jaws to avoid marring the wood surface. The bar will rust if not oiled or waxed but a little steel wool will clean it up. The 36" will handle most clamping needs and the price is low enough to allow buying enough for uniform clamping.

I am buying some clamps for my husband for Father's Day and thought the Quick-Grip clamps would be good. My husband said they are convenient, but if you really need to squeeze something tight go with a good old fashioned clamp. He likes these (24" and 34").

I agree with everything Joseph C. Mooney writes, and he did an excellent job covering it.

All I can add is that I have found it invaluable for repair where I am forced to make a butt joint or to reinforce a failed joint that can't easily be disassembled. My most frequent application is to repair the insides of uphostered frames without having to "de-upholster" The small size and flexibility of this jig work well.

In general, I dislike pocket screws for most applications and would not use it for many applications as suggested by Kreg at [...] , but for attaching aprons to tables or in-place repairs, this tool does a good job at a fair price.

I used to make my own pocket hole jigs. Drill a hole into a square hardwood block, cut an appropriate angle off the block, and you've got your jig. This approach gives you maximum flexibility with the angle, hole diameter and stock size. Sometimes, it's the best way to go. However, the downsides to this approach are numerous: you have to think alot (it takes some time to figure out the angle and offset), the wood jig gets sloppy after extended use and must be replaced, you need to drill twice for each hole (one countersink, and one for the screw).

Enter the Kreg jig.

Pros:
o no thinking required (well, not about how to build the jig anyway).
o easy to use.
o high quality product. This is a very well made jig, built to tight tolerances. I expect it to last for a very long time.
o the drill bit is also top quality - if you've only used cheap disount bits you will be very pleasantly surprised to see how this fine Kreg bit performs.
o instructions are clear, short, easy to follow.
o works as well as advertised. Better than I expected, actually.
o great support and product information at the kreg website.

Cons:
o you are limited to a single angle (about 15 degrees, I seem to recall).
o you are limited to a single hole width (3/8")

Overall I am very pleased with this jig. It works well and is surprisingly pleasant to use.

I've been using the Kreg screws with this jig and am very pleased with them - they are the same high quality as the jig. You can use other screws but make sure they are self-drilling.

I use any one of a number of my shop clamps to hold things in place - they work well. I suspect the kreg clamps would work better but have not tried them, and am not inclined to do so at this time.

You will need long reach robertson (square drive) screwdriver (or bit for your power driver). A 3" square drive bit with an extension will do, but a 6" bit is best. (These are available here on amazon.com, and possibly at your local hardware store.)

One last thing. Used appropriately pocket holes can be quite strong and durable, whether done with a home-made jig or the kreg.

Much easier than trying to line up biscuts, this little tool saved me hours on my built-ins. I highly reccommend this item and using it with a corded drill for anything 3/4" and over. I used my cordless and had no problems but I think the power of a general consumer cordless drill may not be enough to make a clean hole. I definitly reccommend this liitle jig and bit or move up to the bigger one.

While the quality of the build of this instrument is top notch, the technology is outdated. Several companies have improved the beam quality, bulb life and electrical reliability of similar products. Solid state technology (LED light) has made the standard D-cell light a dim unreliable unit. The company has rested on it's laurels for too long. Other companies have made brighter smaller longer life units in standard bulb (incandescent) and solid state (LED) formats for a number of years now. See companies like Streamlight, SureFire, Brinkmann and search for "LED Flashlights" for the whole array of new technologies.

Most of my Mag Lights have been retired in favor of LED technology lights with comparable output plus extended battery life and bulbs that last for 50,000 plus hours. Mag faces the risk of becoming the 8-track version of the flashlight in my opinion.

this truly is a work of art! the best flashlite money can buy,its been there for me in many dark places..

This is Maglite - the most robust, simply designed, durable flashlight ever. All except the tiniest maglites share a number of common features: super-bright bulbs, waterproof seals, a twistable head which adjusts the spread of the beam from spot to flood, and a spare bulb in a padded compartment in the base. This is the 2D-cell version, portable but still satisfyingly solid in feel. Larger versions take 3, 4 or even 6 D-cells.

Each of these tools has performed exceptionally. The reciprocating saw and especially the blower go through battery life quicker than I expected, but the circular saw seemed to go much longer than I expected on a single battery. I built 70 feet of wood fence last week and used the circular saw to notch the posts for the cross members, rip a couple fence planks to size and other assorted cuts, and a single battery lasted the entire job and was still working full steam! Even though the battery time was more than ample even for the reciprocating saw and blower, I would get at least one extra if you are going to use these tools moderately. After reading reviews on the blower, I feel compelled to comment. I installed two exterior doors a few days after receiving this combo kit and kept the blower at close reach to keep the work surface area clear of debris. I patched about a hundred feet of cracked concrete and used the blower to clean inside and along the cracks before applying the patching mix. After finishing with my router table, I used the blower to clean all the chips and dust away (while outside). These are the kinds of jobs I believe this blower was made for, and it excels at them. My six-year-old son putters around with the blower while we work on things, and I noticed the other day he successfully cleaned the entire garage floor working around all obstacles. We usually use brooms and the air compressor, but this blower was much easier to use and did a better job. My opinion of this kit is beyond exceptional.

I will try not to bore you, or to "plug" the Makita brand. I am giving you my personal opinion as per my experience over the past 2 years.
A little background...I am a carpenter/remodeler and work with a friend of mine. We have alot of Makita in our trailer, as well as other brands, like Dewalt, Porter Cable, Craftsman, Bosch, David White, etc. As you can see, we are not partial to one brand. We try to buy the best we can find, at a price we are willing to pay. Being professionals, we are less inclined to worry about price, and more concerned in quality and ease of use features.

As with all tools...do your homework. Ask valuable questions and answer them honestly. Do YOU really need 18 volts, or are you trying to better your neighbor? Do you NEED a cordless hammer drill?

Me..? Yes I do. If you read my review on the DK1052DL kit (here in Amazon) you will get alot of info on the 6347 M-Force drill, 5620 Circ saw (my favorite), and the JR180 Recip saw. I love that kit and stand by it. The reason I bought this kit is simple to me. After having great experiences with the DK1052, I wanted a hammer drill but really needed the jig saw. The best price I could find was $270 and $299 respectivly. Buying the complete kit is really the only choice. Granted, 2 batteries aren't always enough for me (which before is why I bought a 6347D drill kit in addition), but for a homeowner/enthusiast it's a great kit.

The recip-saw that came with this DK1032 has a different, updated blade holder than my other one. This one has a "knob/collar" that you turn to release the blade, which stays in the "released" position after the blade "pops" out. All you do is stick another blade in, and the collar rotates to the lock position. Nice feature. We'll see how it holds up. The older one I have has a "slide" lever, which works fine, even though it has been loaded up with drywall dust.

The Circ saw is excellent (see my review of the DK1052). Another person had commented on not being able to make great miter cuts when building a deck. Don't try to do it freehand. This is a circular saw, not a miter saw. By the time you set up a jig in order to get a clean, straight line, you can have the cut done on a miter saw. This saw is like any other circ saw...it will cut where you point it...it will get off line when you do. When you have a sharp blade in it, it will cut until the battery dies.

The drill impressed me when I first saw it. Same weight as my 6347. Basically the same type of clutch torque setting too. I like this drill better than some others, because of the 2 rings by the chuck. One is the torque ring, and the other is the drive/drill/hammer ring, which can be changed independantly of the torque ring. Some other drills, you have to rotate the torque ring all the way from a torque number to drill then to hammer. With the 8443, you can go right to hammer from the torque setting you want to use for that fastener. It doesn't spin as fast as a corded drill, but it's a cordless, it's not going to.

The jig saw is great too. I've used it to cut steel studs, sink openings, fiber cement board, etc. The Ridgid cordless jig saw we have on board has a better tool-less blade change than the Makita. It has a springed lever (much nicer) where Makita has a clamp style. The Makita has a knob on top, you have to slide into the "activate" position, turn to open the jaws, insert the blade, turn to tighten, and then slide the knob into the "deactive" position. It does hold the blade tight, and the knob doesn't get in the way when done correctly, but the Ridgid can be change in about 5 seconds, and the Makita takes a little longer. But the Makita has tool-less base plate positioning, and can be moved back to allow a closer cut to an edge (ie...cutting a floor up close to a wall).

Next..the blower. Yes it seems a little goofy to have, but it's there...might as well use it. I don't use it often, but it does come in handy. Example is when we finished a deck recently, we used it to blow the saw dust off before the customer saw the deck. It was easier than dragging the shop-vac out. I've also used it when doing a filter service/clean on a furnace.

Lastly...I don't think there is any skimping going on with the tools. These are the exact same things you get if you buy them separatly. The only difference is you don't get a case for each individual tool, or additional batteries and chargers.
If you want a great all around kit...Definatly consider this one. The price is right for all the tools you get. And they are excellent tools. Remember, these are cordless tools. They cannot, and should not be expected to, do jobs that require a heavy duty corded tool. VERY few cordless tools can. Do your homework.

This toolkit is absolutely wonderful. I'm especially impressed with the drill and the jigsaw. I use the drill all of the time. The blower isn't good for much, but other than that this toolset is the kit to have. However, it only comes with two batteries, i've bought more since, because 5 tools with 2 batteries doesn't go very far, even though the batteries last longer than any i've ever seen.

I used this brand of drill for 10 years and use it mainly for door installations. It is a very heavy duty drill with alot of power. I actually burnt out one of these drills and another stopped working. I am on my third one. (I readily admit I abuse my tools so that why I don't hold it against milwaukee. I don't want a more powerful drill, I would probably break my wrist if it caught something)
Note: I had the drill twist out of my hands many times, that's why you have to use the side grip attachment.
The only reason I gave it four stars is because the motor burnt out on me once. I think the connection broke on the trigger the second time.

This drill worked great for me, until last weekend when it suddenly burst into flames. Yes, I was using it for a "tough" job -- 1" Forstner bit in hardwood -- but that's what a "heavy duty" drill is for, right? Anyway, after much argument with the local home improvement store where I bought it 6 months ago (they wanted me to send it back myself to Milwaukee for warranty) I got a replacement. I'm hoping I just got a lemon and this new one will live up to its reputation.

Also, I can say from first hand experience that this drill CAN hurt you if you don't hold the drill and the work piece very firmly. My injuries were very minor but it was a powerful lesson in how much torque this drill has.

I own five Milwaukee tools to date, various electric drills, sanders, and grinders. I have found them easy to repair, with parts readily available locally so that I have short downtime when repairs (mostly maintenance) need to be done. I have never had to replace any of the tools I own. Parts are never obsolete, at least in my experience. I recently replaced a variable speed switch on my electric drill which is over ten years old. It is the first repair I have had to make on the tool since I purchased it and it has had extensive use in my work as a professional. I would never think twice about purchasing another Milwaukee tool, they are worth every penny.

So far, this router meets all my expectations; it's precise, reasonably quiet, and particularly suited for use in a router table. The only thing that bugs me is the cutting depth adjustment screw: why 5 turns per inch? Either 4 or 8 turns would make a lot more sense, and make it much easier to set a specific cutting depth from a "zero" start. However, I like the tool well enough that I guess I'll learn to live with this quirk.

Great tool very powerful .A little heavy but very well made compared to other companies out there.Iwould highly recommend this tool to anyone who does a lot of router work.

I recently purchased the 5616-20 router. As I was waiting for it to be shipped I read some reviews that had me concerned. It seems that under the table mounting was not allowing room for the collect wrenches. When I received my router I proceeded with the task of mounting it to my table. Mine being a homemade table with a �" aluminum plate meant that it was necessary to drill mounting holes. Which interfered with the existing holes. So I rotated the mount by 90 degrees. This put the opening for the "T" wrench up front and allows me to utilize both front and back wrench openings from either side to change collects. Making it an easy job. I am 100% satisfied with the performance of this router.

I bought this model about 6 months ago and am impressed with its ergonomics,weight, and decent power. I was looking for a new cordless to add to my collection of drills and narrowed my choices down to this drill and the 12 volt Makita 6217DWDEX. The Panosonic is about a 1/4 lbs lighter- at 4 pounds, has a 1/2" chuck versus a 3/8" chuck, and comes with 3amp ni-mh batteries versus 2.6 amp ni-mh for the Makita. Why a 12 volt? Because of weight. What's been happening to cordless drills over the last 2-3 years is ridiculous. The 18 and 24 volt models are now weighing in at around six pounds, are a foot long,and cost twice as much as a good quality high amp corded drill. Torque? How much do you need? More on that later. Anyway, let's talk about this Panasonic drill.
The build quality is excellent. The seams line up perfectly, decals are put on straight, and there were no flaws in its apperance. The grip on this drill is made of a "grippy" rubber which prevents slippage if your hands are sweaty. This "grippy" rubber handle runs up the back of the drill. This could provide a little bit of cushioning protection if you accidentally drop the drill onto a hard surface. The 1/2" keyless ratcheting chuck grips bits very tightly. I haven't had any round shank drills spin on me. I checked the run out of the chuck with a gauge pin and Starrett test indicator and obtained a reading of .004" runout. Quite acceptable for a hand held drill. The 3 amp batteries have ventilation slots in the bottom. This is an important feature because the number one enemy of batteries is heat. Excessive heat will kill batteries. This heat is generated when recharging batteries or if the tool is under a very heavy load. The battery life is excellent so far. I've driven over 300 number 12 screws, 2", on a single charge into treated deck lumber. I've also used a 1 inch spade drill to drill through several 2" thick floor joists and the drill hasn't bogged down. One thing I did notice is that the drill handle gets hot under extended use. The battery doesn't get hot, just the handle and the bottom of the drill housing. This concerns me a little. Heat kills motors eventually. I'll have to keep an eye on this. The batteries have an excellent "shelf life." I've left one of my batteries in the case without charging it for 4 months and it still has a strong charge.
On to rpm, torque, and the clutch. This drill like most has two speed ranges-low, up to 400rpm and high, up to 1300rpm. The trigger on this drill is average. What I mean is that once the trigger is depressed about 2/3rds of the way the drill kicks into maximum rpm. I would like to have a more sensitive trigger. This is my only major complaint about the operation of this drill. By the way, the electric brake on this drill is fabulous! It stops the drill so quickly that the drill actually twitches in your hand when you release the trigger. It's instantaneous! There are 18 clutch settings. The clutch collar clicks solidly when adjusting the clutch and doesn't jump out of position. The torque rating on this drill is advertised to be 293 in. pounds in low gear with the clutch locked out. This is wrong! The actual torque is 199 in. lbs. The 293 in. lbs. is what Panasonic calls its "free load" torque. This "free load" torque is based on mathematical calculations that consider the gear train, magnets in the motor, electrical motor efficiency, and amperage provided by the batteries. It's a theoretical measurement. Under load-when work is actually being done- the actual torque is about 30% less than the advertised torque. What! Don't worry, Dewalt, Makita, Bosch, and Milwaukee, all the premium brands, advertise in the same manner. It's deceptive and unethical (part of the "torque war" that's going on right now), but helps to explain why when a group of 12volt, or 14.4 volt, or 18 volt drills are tested, they are all nearly identical in performance. Some may drill a few more holes, some may drive a few more lag bolts, but the results are pretty close to each other. I knew the torque of this drill was less than advertised before I bought it and wasn't too concerned about it. 199 in lbs. will easily twist the heads off of 10# wood screws if you don't pre drill holes- I've done that. Here's a tip. Whatever the advertised torque is on a cordless drill- subtract 30% from it to get the actual torque. One last comment about torque and this Panasonic. This drill has a feature called "full torque speed control." This means you get the same amount of maximum torque in low range with the clutch locked out no matter how far you depress the trigger. You get the same maximum torque at 70 rpm as you do at 400rpm. This provides great control when driving fasteners. You don't have to "open up" the rpm's to get that extra torque to seat a stubborn screw or lag bolt.
My final conclusion about this drill is that it is well built, lightweight, has enough torque for 95% of your jobs, and has unbelievable battery life. Why lug around a 6 pound 18 volt or 24 volt drill all day when a compact 12 volt will handle almost any fastening or drilling job you encounter? I see a lot of electricians and hvac people use Panasonic 12 volt drills, and I understand why. Nobody wants to stand on a ladder and hold some behemoth drill overhead all day. I would rate this drill as 4- to 4 1/2 stars. I think the trigger should be more sensitive and I am a little concerned about the drill becoming hot under extended use, but I think it has the best combination of weight, ergonomics, battery life, and torque of any compact drill on the market.

This is the best driver/drill out there for a number of reasons such as; it has a sturdy chuck that securely holds even the smallest of bits. I had a Makita previously and with small bits, it would often loosen on it's own-very annoying. It runs very smoothly, has NiMH batteries (don't even bother with something that uses NiCAD), and it's much lighter and easier to hold than the 15.6v version-try holding the 15.6v version above your head for a while and you'll see what I mean.

This Panasonic 12v packs plenty of punch for everything but the most severe industrial jobs. Among those in the know, Panasonic is regarded as the best maker of cordless drivers. The combination of reliabilty, ergonomics and smoothness is why.

This driver is perfect not just for usage around the house as a powerful cordless screwdriver and drill, but it can also quite effectively be used in industrial/contractor situations with no problem at all. I'm a photographer and just used this driver to install frame mounting hardware to the backs of about 100 picture frames for a corporate client and I was extremely pleased every time I reached for it-it's not too heavy, I didn't worry about the chuck coming loose or having the unit fail. I can't say this much about other brands I've owned in the past.

This is an excellent drill. At 12-Volts this Panasonic packs plenty of punch, and maintains constant speed under load. The finish is excellent and all parts fit together snugly. This drill has just the right weight and size, and fits comfortably in your hand. The Panasonic kit comes with two 3.0 amp batteries so you always have one in the ready. My battery lasts a full day with heavy use.

I bought the Panasonic to replace a 12-V Makita. The Panasonic has more power at the same voltage (the 3 amp batteries). Small drill bits will not spin in the chuck!!! The electronic brake is also excellent, althought this can't be good for the brushes. No problems so far.

My only complaint is that the trigger needs to be more sensitive/responsive. It slowly increases RPM's as you depress it, and then goes right to full speed.

Overall, I highly recommend this drill for all general tasks. It will out-perform other 12V drills, and is just the right weight to carry around or for working overhead.

I am a full-time carpenter.

This is a professional quality drill/driver, with metal gears, heavy-duty trigger switch, ratcheting chuck with carbide teeth. It has heft and although some might complain about its weight, anything that generates over 400 in. lbs. of torque and doesn't fall apart after 40 hrs. of hard use HAS to weigh something, right?

I read an April 2005 review on 'premium' vs. 'homeowner' grade cordless drills and was interested to see that in nearly every photo of a disemboweled premium drill, said premium drill was the Porter-Cable. It's built to last.

Here's what to watch out for:

1) If you charge the batteries, then don't use them for a few days, your amp hours will be far lower than if you charge the batteries and use them the same day. I don't get quite as much run time out of the batteries as I would like, but I am doing mean things to my drill, like running a 3/4" x 16" masonry bit in hammer/drill mode and leaning into the poor little drill, driving 1/2" x 12" lag screws into pressure-treated wood, drilling holes through 20 oz. copper and tin in -5˚ weather....and so on. When used for what I imagine is a more appropriate application, like driving sheetrock screws into sheetrock, the batteries last long enough for me to wonder when they'll die so I can take five.

2) The HIGH/LOW switch. Works great, but one day I somehow left it in between settings: i.e., in the middle, not on HIGH or LOW, and the drill made a horrendous racket and would not drive anything to save its life. Convinced the drill was completely shot, I began hunting for the case so I could take it back to Home Depot and give them puppy dog eyes. At some point I noticed that the switch was not engaged in either range, flicked it to LOW and all was right with my world again.

3) Despite the all-metal chuck with carbide jaws, things still fall out of it ocassionally. This and the less-than-an-18v battery time warrants fours stars instead of five. Yes, I really crank on the chuck when tightening a bit. For a 14.4 volt drill that I bought new at Home Depot for $100, I'd give it five stars with no caveats. (Home Depot was discontinuing the line and I got lucky).

A few +s you might not know about:
The drill has an automatic brake, so when you take your finger off the switch the chuck comes to a complete stop. The onboard bit storage is not a gimmick and gets constant use (I usually have a #3 Phillips and square drive bits onboard and a #2 Phillips in the chuck, covering 95% of all driving applications). The charger is a diagnostic, 'smart-charger,' which means it knows to NOT charge when the battery is too cold, too hot, or just plain worn out (haven't seen that yet). And, unlike cheaper drills, there is more heavy-weight copper in this tool than a jug of pennies.

Note: Treat yourself to a DeWalt, Ryobi, Sears--whatever-- quick-release 1/4" bit chuck. You chuck it in the drill and leave it in. Then, use the drill bits, Phillips drivers, etc. that have the notched speed shank and changing bits is lightning-fast--much faster than ratcheting the drill's chuck. I have the DeWalt (because it's bright yellow and I can find it if I drop it, not because it's a DeWalt) and it's been great.

That's about it. This drill has enough torque to sprain your wrist, snap heads off stainless steel deck screws, drive 1.5" spade bits through mahogany, and push big masonry bits into concrete (although using said bits in hammer mode really drained the power, and fast). It won't replace my 1/2" Milwaukee corded drill completely but the Porter Cable is what I reach for 90% of the time. If $ is no object, get the Milwaukee Lok-Tor 18v; it has received top reviews from several trade magazines and will drill more holes on a charge than the Porter-Cable, being 18 volts vs. 14.4. If its chuck is the same as on my corded Milwaukee it holds like a pit bull on a mailman.

I received the drill kit today but haven't had a chance to put it through its paces. I will update this review later with my impressions. The drill seems solidly built, and comes packed in a nice blow-molded plastic case with metal latches. The case is black and has Porter-Cable in bright white "Steal me, I'm expensive!" lettering.

The drill body weighs approx 4.2lbs. With battery pack installed, approx 5.8lbs. The drill measures approx 10-3/4" from the tip of the chuck to the back of the motor shell, and 9-1/2" from the top of the housing to bottom of the battery pack. The pack is the widest part of the assembly and is about 3" wide. The drill is labeled "Assembled in Taiwan." The main label on my drill was a bit scuffed. The included screwdriver bit had come loose during shipping and probably caused the scuffing.

The torque selection ring and gear shift are very stiff but seem to engage positively. When set to hammer mode, the hammer action occurs only when downward pressure is put on the bit. I was expecting a mini jackhammer, but the effect is much more subtle, as if the spindle was riding on detents. There is a separate Drill setting on the ring which bypasses the slip clutch. The ratcheting chuck is made by Rohm and has a very solid metal feel.

The battery release button is somewhat awkward to use. I think it's designed to be released with the pinky finger, but the position and motion are somewhat awkward. The button is flush with the housing to prevent accidental release. The battery slides back to release. The forward/reverse selector can also be placed in the center position to lock the trigger. I suggest doing so before fumbling with the battery or holstering the drill.

I have medium-small hands and found the difference between the 3 GTF inserts to be minor. I selected the medium insert. The inserts are secured by a phillips screw. I think it would be nicer to have inserts with different softness and texture instead. All of the inserts are hard rubber. A sticky gel-like insert might be nice, especially when using the hammer.

The kit includes a threaded side handle which can be installed perpendicularly on either side of the drill just in front of the trigger. The handle is hollow plastic and the threaded portion is zinc-plated metal. The plastic seems a little thin and I would not put my full weight on it during use.

The drill emits a noticeable high pitched noise at low speeds. The manual says that this sound is normal. One feature that my corded drill has is a knob that lets me select the maximum allowable speed. I find it useful and wish that this drill had that feature. The brake works well and stops the chuck as soon as I release the trigger.

The carry case holds the charger, extra battery pack, and side handle. It holds the drill with the pack installed. There is also a compartment for the manual and the GTF inserts. On the lid above the charger, there is a compartment for holding a bit set. The bit compartment has a hinged plastic lid. It is not very deep, but would probably hold one small bit set in its case.

The charger can also charge Porter-Cable 12V batteries. It has keyholes on the back for wall mounting, and a 2-prong power cord. It gets a little warm during charging, but will charge a pack in about an hour. It also has diagnostic features to warn you if the battery is too hot, too cold, or needs replacement. On first use, the charger emitted a strong, plastic odor.

The packs appear to be rebuildable. The top is secured by a set of torx screws, and is available as a spare part. It is a 2 Amp hour NiCd pack. There are 3rd party services that can rebuild it with higher capacity NiMH cells. People also seem to be buying these kits for the packs and chargers and selling the drills as new.

UPDATE: I've been using it to drive Phillips wood screws into aged pine and it is more than powerful enough. In fact, I need to get ACR bits to lessen the stripping of the screw heads. It is a big heavy drill though. I opted for a small tool tote that has a built in drill holster and shoulder strap. It does not have a lanyard loop or anything else that I can easily attach a tether to, and it is too heavy for hanging off the belt and pants.

I have been a remodeling contractor in California since 1979. My crew and I have managed to break or ware out every make of battery drill since then.

This is a real tough drill, with a decent Hammer drill mode , and good batteries and charger that last. Unlike Dewalt. Have droped it a bunch of times and haven't managed to break it in three years, unlike my last Hitachi. I have only had to replace the latches ( with steel ones ) on the case after the plastic ones wore out.

The longest I have ever been able to keep a battery drill is five years, and that was with buying new batteries and a charger.

So we give this one a two thumbs up.

For general purpose cutting these are the choice. They do well in a variety of non-abrasive materials. Just don't push them hard or you will need another 5 pack right away. The bits do better if you just let the tool do the work. They are kind of hard to control if you want a nice cut. But that's the nature of spiral saws . The down cutting spiral is nice since the dust is blown away from you instead of back at your face. It's pretty simple , if you have a spiral saw , you need these bits.

For Canadians who cant shop Amazon (I can and do frequently)(love Amazon for the great deals)..these are available at Home Depot for the same price..with currency conversion of course and PST GST

The trick to using these bitsand keeping them from snapping is setting the depth guide to just below the outside surface that you are cutting, but slowing down your cutting rate the futher down the bit you go. In other words, when you cut a thin material at the edge of the bit, with the guide set low, cut SLOW as the force is on the end of the bit and it can snap easy. Go slow and keep your cost low.

I guess this set must be marketed at the kind of person who's kind of clueless about tools. You know: "I don't know what a Mac or a SnapOn is, and I don't know Craftsman from Craftmaster but I know the best plastic containers in my kitchen are made by Rubbermaid!"

Alrighty then. Well, then you know to expect that the quality of this set will be decent. And it is. Just. Not great. Nope, if you go down to Sears and get any of the same tools with the Craftsman name on them, they'll be better than their counterparts in this set. Or go to any decent department store with a tool department, and you'll find Stanley tools, which are at least as good as these, and probably cheaper.

Now, these tools do come in a spiffy little case. You can find the same types of tools in an almost as spiffy case at those same, aforementioned, department stores. But this one may be a bit spiffier. So if that's of prime importance to you, then maybe this set has your name on it. But I don't really understand why you'd value the case over the tools.

Bottom line: Adequate tools in a spiffy case, at a price you can better at your local department store. Nothing much to get excited about here.

Mostly everything you need for small jobs. Could use a needle nose pliers and a small adjustable wrench but it keeps you from running to the large tool box in the garage for small jobs and last minute requests especially late at night.

Good, sturdy, essential tools, that come housed in an exceptionally sturdy, highly portable and attractive carrying case. The marketing in the product description unnecessarily inflates the value by touting its 56 pieces (the fluff being nothing more than picture hangers, brads and wood screws!); it's a great kit without that lameness. Outstanding buy.