Jamb Saws Reviews

I'm a finish carpenter and I use this saw for multiple applications, from cutting the bottom of jambs to shaving a bent post back to square. It's come in handy for so many different jobs - demo to finish - that I wouldn't be caught without it. I would highly recommend this tool to anyone who works with wood.

I love this tool it saved me from getting a crain cutter to do door jambs yes it is not as quick but i like the control of it and i have seen to many people hurt themselves with those dam sidewinder type flush cut saws. i perfer this type of saw plus i feel it leaves a cleaner cut with less patch work to the adjacent molding.

as good as the saw it for jambs i like that this thing has other uses and doesn't just sit in the truck and only get used once in awhile. for $100 it seems to do twice as much work as a crain cutter.

This can be used in many ways from cutting door jambs to mitering corners. Great tool. Great idea. Much more control than sawsall. I used it the other day to chop off some stair balasters the first day I got and it worked perfect. be careful tho of kickbacks when cutting in tight locations.

This puppy ain't cheap but it is worth the price. Laying ceramic tile by making many cuts and nibbling away till a tile fits properly around a door casing is a pain and very time consuming. 5 minutes of time with this saw (1 minute to get it out of the truck, 3 to get it out of the case and set up, 1/2 minute (i'm old) to get down on my knees and another 1/2 minute to make the cut) slide the tile under the jamb and casing for the perfect no grouting fit. WOW !!!
If the door binds on the tile, or anyother type floor, adjust the undercut saw accordingly and trim the door while in place! Your Done!!!

The blade has no guard for about 30 degrees of rotation. I set it down too early before the rotation stopped due to the helical gear box, and it skated around on to the top of my right hand. After much blood, an ambulance ride, 17 ER stitches, a visit to a hand specialist and a splint now protecting my hand, I have a real fear for using this vicious product.
It saws like crazy and does better than my other flush cutting saw but the design is unsafe and needs a motor brake and/or full blade guarding. I think even a pro should be wary of this product.
Tom Elmquist
Danbury, WI
(715) 259-3295

I cannot speak to the long-term durability since I've only used on one (significant) job thus far. I purchased it to cut 3/4" oak stip flooring flush with master bedroom walls so it could be removed and replaced. The sub-floor was in unexpectedly poor shape and I used this tool to remove it (8" pine plank) as well. I am niether aware of nor can I imagine a more effective tool or tool design for the job (that could also be used beneath toe-kicks). However, beware that the tool is powerful and must be treated with higher than average care/respect when using. The blade is prone to eject from the cut/kerf and send the tool spinning & skipping back toward the user blade ablazing - look out! This is not a product design flaw (although an electronic brake would be a welcome addition), but necessarily comes with a tool designed for this (toe-kick) application. Be EXTRA careful to stay on your feet well behind the tool, always very firmly grasp the handle until the blade has come to a complete stop in the material, push the tool straight through the material, do not start the tool in the material or existing kerf. Failure to heed these warning will not lead to good outcomes. Buy the tool if you have a need as I did, but be aware of the extra care needed to operate safely.

I have used the saw for cutting out base boards that sat below the hard wood flooing by standing it on end. Under cut door jambs. And cut out many many rotted floors. It payed for it's self the first day on the job.

This is not a pleasant tool to use. It is noisy, it vibrates excessively, and ergonomically, it is difficult to handle. The trigger position requires the use of the fourth or little finger. Because of the unusual gripping actions required, I developed a blister after less than 20 minutes of work.
The key to success with this saw is to follow the enclosed directions and carefully establish a cutting slot that will then serve to stabilize the blade. (I found myself using a spare blade to manually saw the initial slot.) The suggestion to use a scrap of flooring stock as a base is absolutely obligatory - the saw jumps all over the place unless it is resting securely on a base.
(The saw also damages the base material, so do not use good flooring material or completed flooring, as a base.)

Despite these unpleasantries, the saw does a respectable job of sawing door jambs relatively quickly. I would never do the job manually if I had this saw available.

As a tile contractor with 13 years in the trade, I have used a variety of tools. The Mortensen jamb saw is one of my most valuable items. I use it in conjunction with a circular jamb saw. The Mortensen can get into places where the other cannot. With teeth on both sides of the blade, it is very versatile.

It took a few tries to master a precise and comfortable technique. I highly recommend this tool. Be certain to buy 2 or 3 extra blades. The mechanism on the blade which allows it to be affixed to the saw is somewhat delicate and cannot be repair once broken. Other than that, I have no complaints.

I agree with one of the prior posts in that one could buy a powerful dedicated tool for less rather than deal with the poorly designed Zip Mate attachment. I just broke my Zip Mate yesterday, probably due to the gear being misaligned.

I can't see paying $$ to replace the Zip Mate when I only paid $$ for the entire Roto Zip / Zip Mate kit on sale last January. I'll probably just use the Roto Zip for as long as it will last for drywall cutout jobs and such.

The Roto Zip was designed for drywall cutout work and I think that this is all that it does well.

This attachment is not worth the plastic it's made out of. I'm ready to throw mine away. There's no efficient way of removing the arbor to change out cutting wheels if the arbor is on too tight. The gear system is not adequate to take the elbow grease required to break the tight seal and you can't get vise grips on it, without damage, to hold it. Good luck!

As with other reviews, the Zip Mate works, and I've used it primarily as a cutoff (everything from steel pipe to ductwork to wire shelving). It is great as an all purpose tool, but does not feel as solid as a dedicated grinder/etc. There is some play in the gear that sounds clunky, but this play doesn't seem to affect performance.

My biggest gripe is that recently the flange nut (which holds the disk on) could not be removed from the disk - it appeared bound (and I don't believe that I ran it too fast!) My only solution was to use another rotating tool (Dremel) to cut the flange nut off and buy another one.

Still, if you want a single all purpose rotating disk attachment for the Rotozip, I recommend it.

I,d like to write a review about these items,but they are not shipped outside of the U.S.

I am a potential buyer of this Crain Cutter 810H Super door Jamb saw kit, but I am confused. This is not the same saw that is in my Toolcrib Catalog for October, 2000. Please explain this to me, as I would like to know what I am going to get if I should decide to order this saw. Thanks Ron Mueller

Stay away from the 810. Crain has a great undercut saw. The 555 Multi Undercut saw. It is a great saw and you can get a nice cut. Also look for the heavy-duty version, you can undercut brick with it when using a masonary blade. The model number on this is 820. Also check out the Crain 795 toe kick saw. It is very nice and now includes a case.
Eric
Installertools.com

This has got to be the worst power tool I've ever purchased. Ergonomics are poor, including the placement of the switch where only the little finger can be used to operate it. My saw came with no documentation or free replacement blade. The warning that this saw vibrates is a gross understatement. Chances are that you will let the blade chatter up and down your trim or jamb before you ever get a clean cut started. I went back to my manuel 10" Stanley reversing backsaw. It takes a little longer, but produces much better/smoother results with much more control. I guess that sums up the Mortensen saw as it is totally OUT of control.

I do not understand why this product is on the market. This is the worst feeling tool I have ever held in my hands. I would not recommend this tool to anyone for any purpose. The vibration was to much to deal with. It is also a very awkward tool to hold and is a little dangerous to use. I would give it a minus rating if the computer would let me. I would rather do it with a dull handsaw as to use this product ever again. The blade in this product is good and works well in the hand held handle.

This saw really vibrates. Figured it would as it's a reciprocating saw but even when properly supported it hurts to use it for long. Several other issues are 1. The saw trigger (as you can see from the picture is on the blade side of the handle. This is probably good for working above your head but when doing flooring cut outs you have to use the trigger with your little or ring finger..not good. 2. For some reason the cord (which is very stiff) runs off the top of the handle (again from a floor perspective) this creates very bad dynamics as the cord is always trying to creep around the front of the saw where it could contact the blade which is definetley not good. Seems like a rear handle design for the cord would have made this a much freindlier saw. All said it makes a tough job easier.