Miter Saws Reviews

I recently purchased the attachment, assembled and adjusted it to my bandsaw (Jet 14" cabinet with a 1/4" 4 tpi blade), placed my project on it and started to cut. The first few inches of the 22 inch diameter circle went okay and then I noticed my band saw blade deflecting toward the jig. The blade continued to creep out of the guides as I turned the project. Each time I backed out and started over, I noticed the circle getting smaller and the blade starting to touch the jig. I disassembled everything, including the blade and guide rollers, readjusted and followed all instructions to the letter yet I still have the same problem with the attachment. Freehand works perfectly with much tighter radii so it's difficult to believe the blade is responsible. I called Delta technical support and was told either the blade was responsible or the jig was located too far forward in front of the blade. Again, I followed the assembly instructions exactly using the spacing bar and setting the middle of the slot to the leading edge of the blade teeth. The jig is flat and square to the table. Since the blade tries to turn into a tighter radius, could the instructions be wrong. If so, how far back do I set the jig?

The quality looks good, it's easy to assemble and adjust but I can't understand what I'm doing wrong. All suggestions or comments would be welcome. Thanks

The attachment wasn't at fault!
I had trouble with the circle cut becoming smaller and my blade coming out of the guides. It turns out that I had to tension my blade a little more. I heard some good tips and devoted a couple hours to troubleshooting. After adjusting the tension half way to the next size, the attachment works as expected and instructed. I also rounded the back of the blade and now cut circles easily.

The attachment wasn't at fault!
I had trouble with the circle cut becoming smaller and my blade coming out of the guides. It turns out that I had to tension my blade a little more. I heard some good tips and devoted a couple hours to troubleshooting. After adjusting the tension half way to the next size, the attachment works as expected and instructed. I also rounded the back of the blade and now cut circles easily.

It's a good switch, but didn't install as I had anticipated.
I had intended to mount it on the bottom miter track slot, as per instructions. According to the specs for the switch, 'all new Bench Dog router tables come equipped with this slot'. However, the new Bench Dog RT150 ProTop I just purchased did not come equipped with this slot! I did not want to mount it on the fence. It was pretty easy to come up with a good alternate mounting solution. But, if I had known this, I would have purchased a less expensive saftey switch locally.
I guess the 'new' RT150 they sent me wasn't their newest.

I've been working on what I wanted in a router table for awhile and decided to built my own router table into the right extension of my tablesaw which I built to my specifications.
I wanted to use a switch and a miter slot and when I stumbled upon a BenchDog aluminum extrusion for the outer edge this was the perfect switch for it.
Although I struggled with the price and thought about other options I went with this.
You can bolt it to that piece of aluminum and you can move it slide and turn, depending on what side of the table you're going to work on. That was an added bonus for me.
So far so good. I have a router table that look like it was purchased. But then it was wasn't it, I just put it together and routed a hole where I wanted the plate to go. Could just buy the thing all done and saved some time? Well I did use better supporting material making it match my equipment and there's something about making your own stuff that's more satisfying. So much for saving money building yourself. But if I really was interested in saving money I could have just bolted the router to a piece of plywood and clamped it in a vise.

Like all Bench Dog products the quality and ergonomics of this switch are top notch. And like all Bench Dog router table accessories the price of this switch is a little steep. (Hence the 4 stars)
Installation was a snap and I love the option of either mounting it high on the router fence or low under the miter slot.
Use of the switch is straight forward and I like the safety button you have to depress in order to turn it on.
Sure beats squatting down to turn on the router!

Typical of Dewalt accessories, this item is grossly over-priced. It is made of thin metal and I never got a sense of precision when I installed this on my Dewalt 12" compound miter saw.

The only reason I gave this product four stars is the price. Other than that, it is a very useful accessory. I've been installing Crown Molding for a long time and these stops have increased my speed significantly. If you are going to use these only once, I would not recommend spending the money, but if you are a professional, these stops will pay themselves off within the first couple jobs.

I see a huge amount of products with reviews that slam products. I often wonder if the writers of these reviews ever find anything any better. Personally, I've not found anything any better than these crown stops (in thier proper application). As far as I know, there are no other crown stops that fit this saw. As far as accuracy,,,after determining the distance from the wall to the top face of the crown, I rip a scrap (1x whatever) exactly that wide. If it's 18 inches to 24 inches long it will lay all the way across the saw and I can set both crown stops against the scrap and tighten them down. I've never had one to come loose or bend. Most crown is fairly light and using the upside down method of miter cuts demands the accuracy afforded by some kind of stops or a jig like the Bench Dog.

Not to be slamming the Bench Dog, but, the Bench Dog 10-010 Crown Cutter lays loose on the table,,,and you lose 5/8 - 3/4 inch of cutting capacity both in hight and width. These stops from dewalt fasten tight to the table and you lose nothing in cutting capacity. You need all of the cutting capacity you can get when cutting wide crown molding!! Maybe I'm just so used to the small stops that I'm resisting change. But having a loose jig on a precise cutting tool would surely lead to cumulative error,, wouldn't it??? A loose piece of crown on a loose jig? Granted, you can have the Bench Dog attached to your saw, but doesn't that defeat the option of cutting on either side of the blade? And what about safety when its not fastened down?

Either way you need some type of stops to cut crown properly and this one has worked for me for over ten years. Durable enough .

I don't actually own this dado set, I just felt the need to get the word out there...DADO STACKS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE UNDERSIZED. Any good dado stack will cut, on average, about .030" narrow...I've used Delta, Freud, Forrest and several other "house" brands while hobbying with many highly skilled cabinent makers and all agree that it's easier to shim a dado OUT .030" than it is it make one thinner.

The Forrest 6" x 24-Tooth Dado Set cuts perfect dados without a doubt. The problem is, mine is not perfecty accurate. For 3/4" it calls for both outside blades and 4 - 1/4" chippers. When I put this configuration on, it is not 3/4". I have to use the plastic shims. For [the price], this is not acceptable in my book. I don't know if I just got a bad set or if this is the way they are made. Besides that, the cut is nothing less than perfect....

My philosiphy is to buy the best and only cry once (and I cried like a baby when I bought this). But now that it's paid for, I don't worry about my dado performance. It has cut sharp, splinter free dados in everything I have tried. Features 4 bladed chippers including a 3/32" chipper, and a shim set for fine adjustments. An excellent complement for a Woodworker II combo blade. A six inch set is recommended for most contractor saws because of the rotating mass. Try that wobble type dado if you must, just bookmark this page for when you finally wise up.

I use the Iowa miter saw stand daily, and although I appreciate its' portability, it has a somewhat narrow base and could tip over fairly easily. I have also found it necessary to adjust the height almost daily , as the set screws and wing nuts tend to work loose . A good stand if you don't have to use it every day.

Great stand for the money, being at least half the price of all other models out there. I have my Makita slider (LS1013) set up on it in my garage on the concrete floor. It is rock solid. Not the most portable model available, but I wasn't looking for that. An adjustable stop would have earned the five star rating. I think you can order it separately from the manufacturer.

I've only had this a few days, but at half the price of the more popular stands it's a good deal. I'm a D.I.Y.er and won't
put the same mileage on this as a pro, but it serves the purpose well.

The good points: 1) easy to install. 2) Help stabilizes molding 3-4 feet long. 3) Does not compromise the portability of the saw.

The bad points: 1) a little pricey for what you get. 2) Marginally helpful when cutting a little off a 7-8 foot length of molding. For this you really need a larger add-on fence system.

In my opinion, this device should really be included with the saw as a standard feature.

well it took a long time to find them but they are working out just fine & they are a big help.

These table extension wings are exactly what was needed in the workshop that I purchased them for. Now two man jobs have become one. The wings for the Hitachi miter saw were easy to install and just complements the saw. Its a great addition.

It helps a little bit, but I have no idea what the treaded knobs are supposed to do, as they fit into different holes than the extention bars do. The stop is pretty primitive.
If you are really broke, this is an improvment, but if you have the time or the money, make a table with extentions or buy one of the mitre saw stands.

There is not much to installing the extension, just a couple of minutes. The stop can be set for up to 18" cut off lengths, another 6" to 12" would be helpful. The stop swings out of the way when cutting longer pieces. The ends of the extensions are set at the same height as the table. This really helps to support long lengths of stock.

The product is just fine but after 6 weeks of backorders you then informed me the order was canceled so I reordered and you guessed it.I received and was billed for 2 of the same item.I sure can,t use 2 sets of extensions and I won't order this way again.I still have the extra set.

I purchased this saw at a local home center and being a trim carpenter, it looked like a nice light saw for small mouldings. After using it for a short time the base started to bind up, so I took it apart and cleaned it out . It had collected alot of saw dust and crud in a short time. I reassembled the saw and it work fine for a few more times. I just went to use this saw the other day and noticed the space/bearing had came out the bottom of the saw, now it has to much play to make a good accurate cut. I belive you get what you pay for and I got a $130.00 saw.

I bought this saw at my local tool box. I was looking at the Dewalt 703 and Hitachi and I was trying to decide which one to purchase for some remodeling and general work. The first thing that drew me to the Hitachi was the price. The Hitachi was 40 dollars cheaper than the DeWalt,
the Hitachi also included a clamp, the Dewalt did not, and finally the recomendation from the salesman did it for me. I took it home and immediatly took it out the box. The first thing I noticed was it was made in China. I had already been burned on tools made in China so I started having my doubts about this saw. I plugged it in and tried it out. The saw cut the 2 x 4 with ease. It seemed to have sufficient power for the task. As I put it through it pace, the trigger started going bad on it. Every time I pressed the trigger the saw would either start or would not. I checked the power cord and everything looked good. I also started noticing the fit and finish of the saw, especially the base of the saw, and noticed the miter guage was starting to lift up on one side. On the DeWalt the gauge is screwed on to the base. The Hitachi seemed like it was glued on to the base. The clamp also looked cheap with cheap hard plastic knobs that
if you tighten to hard you could probably snap them of. I decided to return the saw back to my local tool box and get the more expensive Dewalt. The Hitachi is a good saw with sufficient power for the task but the I've learned that you get what you paid for. I wish Hitachi would pay more attention to the little details on the saw. A better miter gauge and more thought into the clamping system of the saw. Overall its a good saw but still needs some work.

The saw is accurate and easy to use. No problems getting it up and running. All the stops are dead on, no adjustment was required. My only regret is that the saw is made in China, even Japan is outsourcing!

This saw does not stay square on the 90 positive stop. On the 45 positive stops, ones on 45 the other on 46. There is too much play on the saw when you are making a cut. Also, the guard sticks about 75% of the time, sometimes open and somtimes closed. Finally, I would never buy a Makita miter saw again, and go with a better brand.

The Dust bag comes out to low if they reworked that I would rate it 5 stars

For the money this is a great Miter Saw. It is very powerful. It may not have an infinate range of angle settings, but it has the most common settings.

My company purchased this saw about a year ago. It does not cut square, and has a handle that is very uncomfortable to use. When making a verticle cut through 4" material the cut is 1/32" out from top to bottom.

I have been using this product since last two and half year. We have got the details from one of Al.Supplier who is using this product.

The product is very good functionally and showing the very good performance in the industrial environment. We are using product almost ten hours per day .

I am based in India . We are requiring more outlets who can support us more effectively .

A very accurate, durable and simple design has never let me down. I worked in a truss shop for two years building trusses by hand in SW Missouri and spent many hours at the controls of my 1440. We had three LS1440 stations set up, one backup, and a radial arm saw. Our saws took the hardest abuse day in and day out. Doing floor trusses one time I made +3,000 cuts with my 1440 in a 9 hour day! Maintenance is a piece of cake, changing the brushes and after the abuse we put them through occasionally changing the return spring, in addition to a WD-40 bath over the weekends. Custom beveled carbide tipped heavy-duty blades helped also. A sound investment brand new because I bet you won't be able to find any used for sale, people just don't get rid of what is a proven racehorse in my opinion. P.S.- By the way, we used only #1 yellow pine for all components of all truss designs. And if you don't believe me just look me up!