Power Saws Reviews

We got this saw two-years ago in my shop class. We have run everything that you can imagine through it, even pvc. No matter what you run through it, it doesn't slow down. The stock-splitter/Anti-kickback teeth are a great feature to insure that you don't end-up with a board in your stomach. It is a left-tilt saw so that your material doesn't bind against the fence. The Accu-Fence is one of the best fences that I have ever used. It is smooth, and insures accuracy. When you set up the fence, Make sure that you set fence tape right, so that you wont have to ever have to use a ruler. This saw is awesome, and I would recommend it to anyone looking to make a quality investment. Out of five stars, I give this saw ten.

I just bought the Powermatic 66 5HP single phase. I was going to get the three phase model, and pick up a phase converter. That way if I ever get into a three phase environment I would be ready to go. I understand the motors are made quite differently internally. Then I found out that a three phase motor runs at about 1/3 less its rated power when it is run on single phase with a converter. So you are getting about 3 usable HP.
The single phase 5HP motor weighs about 100 pounds and has a cast iron end (TEFC frame). You could easily call it overkill. I came off of using a single HP old Sears saw, and after blowing breakers, and the thermal safety protection built into the motor (and having to wait for it to cool off and reset) when cutting into inch and a half stock, I didn't want to take any chances with the power, so I went for the 5. I am sure the 3 does the job more than adequately.
When building doors, table legs, windows etc, out of 2 or 3 inch hardwoods, you'll be glad you did.
By the way, here is a setup tip. My Powermatic 66 was shipped with a dead on flat tabletop. Inside the carton are both of the cast iron extension wings. There is one for the left and one for the right. Once mounted and tweaked to get the seam even all the way across, I noticed that one of them did not create a completely level top. It may only be off by .010 but that is enough to see light coming from under your straightedge.
We're not spending all of this money to put up with a slightly off situation. So, what to do? Here it is; Take a piece of aluminum foil, and fold it over a few times, to get a 4 or 8 fold thickness. Then cut a strip of it about 1/4" wide. Loosen the three bolts that hold the extension onto the side, slip the foil shim down into the seam and below the top edge. Retighten your extension, and then check for levelness. If it is off by even the slightest, readjust the thickness of the foil by how many folds you use. Then it will be perfectly, and I mean perfectly even all the way across.
The nature of the problem exists because even though the table edge and the extension may be ground perfectly, if it is off by even a few thousandth's, it will magnify itself to hundredths by the time it gets to the outer edge of the extension.
Aluminum foil is incredibly thin, so 4 or 8 folds of it, add up to zilch, but it is enough to make your extensions perfectly level. The nice thing is that since the foil is so thin, it doesn't create any gap in the seam across the top. I can't get the pointed tip of a razor blade to go into mine. It's a dead on mating, but that tiny bit of offset is enough to tweak it right on.
I bought the Model 66 5 Horsepower 1 phase without the sliding table, so if you would like to read my full review, you can check that one. I just thought that something as relevant as this set up tip would be beneficial. Previous owners may want to check theirs and tweak them in as well. I hope this helps.

Spend the extra amount of money and go Powermatic, it raises the standard.

Excellent Table saw. Easy to set up, clear instructions. Extremely heavy though, but, I like that, no vibration (you will need a few helpers). The rip guide took a couple of times to align properly, but, not a problem. Built to last. This saw has ripped everything I have thrown at it and doesn't slow down. Clearly built with quality in mind. Have used the Delta and Craftsman line of table saws- they don't even compare. I have the 3-phase 5 HP version. Only drawback was have to install a three phase converter, which wasn't cheap. I am thrilled with this saw and will never buy another one (may never need to, don't think this one will breakdown). If you are trying to decide on a saw, choose this one, you won't be sorry.

This is not simply an orange or "rebadged" DeWalt, you can't just look at the spec sheets, you have to look at the saws, or better yet use them like I have. Yes, it does have the same motor and motor assembly and cutting capacity (an important aspect), and therefore much of the specs are the same. However, there are lots of important differences (some important, some not) that make the DeWalt "Heavy Duty" and this one, well, not:

- The dust bag support is different and weaker, it can't support a full bag without bending or even (yikes!) breaking.

- The base is made of thinner/lighter stock and won't stand up to as much abuse without bending or warping.

- The base doesn't have any clamping holes in it, and B&D does not offer any aftermarket clamps for it.

- The blade guard isn't metal reinforced like the DeWalt.

- The included blade is inferior to the standard DeWalt blade, and really should be replaced by anybody serious about the quality of their cuts.

- The miter and bevel metrics are either plastic or sticker on plastic, whereas on the DeWalt they are silkscreened stamped metal.

Is the saw a great deal? YES! For [money]vs [money] for the DeWalt, I *easily* think it's the better value for the average Weekend Handyman. But you *do* get something for that [money]. I'm not saying the differences are worth [the money], to most people they aren't (including me), but to somehow try to make yourself feel better about this saw by saying "oooh...it's really worth [more money] since it's identical to that [money] saw" is simply not true.

From a cutting standpoint, if they had the same blade, they would perform the same, and how well a saw cuts IS the most important feature. For [money] you can buy the identical blade which comes with the DeWalt and you'd still be [money]ahead and have the "same saw" from a quality of cut and cutting capacity standpoint. But it would *NOT* be "the same saw, only orange". There are a lot of things that work in unison to make a great saw, and in many of these areas the DeWalt has improvements over it's cheaper sibling to help justify the heftier pricetag.

I'm not advocating that you go out and buy the DeWalt, in my opinion it's overpriced for even these changes I've stated above. Sears sells a Craftsman (Ryobi) for [money] which is the quality of the DeWalt, and one for [money] which blows it away. I'd buy one of those two models, or this B&D, before the DeWalt.

Simply stating that this is identical to a DeWalt but different color is a misleading falsehood. I've seen this posted on multiple review sites, and it's wrong everywhere it is posted.

It doesn't mean it's not a good value, to the contrary, I think this saw is probably the best value in the 10" compound miter non-sliding category. It *blows* away all of the [cheaper] models, and even most of the [more expensive] models, and from a cutting standpoint keeps up with the [most expensive]models.

This saw is a tremendous value @ [the price]. It's just not a DeWalt. :-)

Works very well with most wood stock. The blade provided isn't ideal. I replaced mine with an 80 tooth fine crosscut blade. Also the addition of one or two clamps would have made this saw a real winner. Blade stop works very well. Dust bag support rod needs to be made stronger. I broke mine the first day and rebuilt it stronger.

Pound for pound this Compound Miter is best saw available for the "Harry" homeowner. The extensions coupled with a surprisingly strong motor add to this already good deal. The cuts this unit can make are smooth and accurate. Really if you aren't a "pro".... buy this unit. It comes with a 2 Year warranty (most Industrial units offer 1 year), and is backed by the best service powertool company: Black & Decker! Accessories and replacements are easy to obtain. [...]

this saw proves powerful enough and is designed well, making any adjustment simple.I did have to make a slight adjustment to the bevel pointer, but that was a cinch. I do however wish it had a better line guide for 45 90 degree cuts and was a little lighter.All tools have good and bad points. This one is a well made quality tool.Shop around and compare features and you'll see. dewalt is in the big league's.I recommend this tool, quality and affordability is a great combination. Now get out and saw something.

As so often happens, I made this purchase under emergency conditions. My other saw (different brand) was damaged in the midst of a job and I needed a replacement NOW!! The local lumberyard had several brands, sizes, price ranges, etc. to choose from and I chose the DeWalt 359 simply because it appeared to be the best overall value. The saw has POWER to spare, is easy to handle and adjust. I, and my employees, have had a bit of trouble adjusting to the 45 and 90 guide lines, but with some time we have done OK. The sole plate is smooth and allows the saw to glide smoothly over the workpiece.

I am always pleased when a manufacturer provides a quality case for a good tool, and DeWalt has even included a top shelf blade withthis saw. No need to buy a blade to replace the often mediocre ones provided with new saws.

Great job by DeWalt.

I have owned this saw for about 5 months now and I am quite impressed with it's performance. I have purchased several DeWalt products (mostly their saws) and have found very few flaws in their products. This saw is plenty powerful and the adjustments are a snap to make. The case is strong and the base plate is better than any other circular saw I have ever seen or used. I would highly recommend it.

I had several saws before , but this time I decided to spend the bucks and buy a good one that would be worth fixing if the bearing went out.
Well this is everything I thought it would be and more, The only draw back is that this baby has some weight to it, My wife helps out alot and she complained the firest time she picked it up so if your not a strong arm person , this is not the saw for you.
keep in mind the 8 1/4 blades are not cheap when they can be found , but you can use the 7 1/4 if the size is not in demand.

Simply put, this saw has a lot of power and is great for framing and ripping 2x4's. I used this saw to rip 3x10's and it handled the job with ease. I would have to recommend this saw over the 7-1/4 types. If you only can afford one saw, this is the one to buy. 7-1/4 inch type saws are lighter and easier to handle all day long, but they won't cut like this one. I own both types of saws and I usually go for the 8-1/4. They really should make a case for this thing. Mine didn't come with a case. I have to pull the blade guard back in order to store it in the 7-1/4 saw case. The 7-1/4 saw now sleeps on the floor.

I am actively involved in timber framing for myself, and have been looking for the right mid-sized circular saw for a while. I came dangerously close to ordering the Milwaukee 10-1/4" until I read a very helpful review on this site about the paper thin foot that easily bent. I already own a 16-5/16" Makita, and it is a beast, with a maximum 6-1/2" depth of cut at 90 degrees. I needed a saw that could cut 3" deep---this saw is advertized at 2-15/16", and it does every drop of that! The foot is extruded aluminum, about 1/8" thick, very stout. This saw feels no different than a normal 7-1/4" to me. The depth adjustment knob is fantastic, and the angle adjustment is a breeze. Be sure and check it when you first get your saw though. Mine was off almost two degrees. This saw will rip 3" thick SYP with the blade that comes with the saw! It is as strong as you would ever need it to be!...

The customer service I received from Main Street Tools was every informative. The circumventing issues I have are predominantly over the condition of the saw when it arrived at my residence. This saw only traveled from Pennsylvania to Virginia making one stop in Newport News, Va. The box was beaten up pretty badly. So much so that I nearly refused the shipment. Although there was no apparent damage it had received modest cosmetic damage to the saws table top were the paint had been rubbed off down to the metal in two four inch areas. A can of spray paint resolved that issue. The rip scale was way off. I had to use pressure from the fence to square the blade to the table after reaching its adjustment limits. Also, adjustment on both bevel stop points were out of adjustment.
This saw can be found anywhere. Go to a local shop or home inprovement store to purchase it. You may be able to save a few dollars buy shopping the internet but why bother. I feel the saw will be fine and if you do make such a purchase over the internet I strongly suggest you request the product be shipped in a strong and more protective box. UPS may handle music CD's or clothing well but reconsider any heavy power equipment gentlemen.

This is a great tool. I've been in love ever since I used my father-in-law's and couldn't pass up the combo deal. However, when mine arrived it had signs of being pre-owned or mishandled, including some rubbing on the table, fingerprints (don't care if they are from the factory, but if someone had the saw out of the box before me it is annoying) and the rack and pinion assembly was off by a couple of teeth. I had to take it partially apart and do not only "fine tuning" but some serious re-adjusting to get it just right. Wasnt terribly difficult, just not the kind of thing you expect on a brand-new $500 saw. So the initial "build-quality" on my saw wasn't that great. Other than that, it seems fine. And in general, the features, power and useability of the saw are just excellent.

I received my new saw only four days after ordering it, ... and I live in Hawaii. The box was slightly damaged on the bottom but the saw was spared from the abuse.

I ordered one of these saws for my job about a year ago and promised myself I'd get one when I could. After seeing this special "SB" package that included the outfeed and side supports and an extra blade, well, the timing seemed right.

This saw can compete with many contractors saw in terms of power and accuracy. I spent about an hour tuning the usual areas that would need checking and adjustment, not uncommon before using just about any saw when new. It was close to being "right" and corrections were minimal.

Overall, another good product from a company that puts a lot of good ideas into their tools (I especially love the rack and pinion fence).

Each of these tools has performed exceptionally. The reciprocating saw and especially the blower go through battery life quicker than I expected, but the circular saw seemed to go much longer than I expected on a single battery. I built 70 feet of wood fence last week and used the circular saw to notch the posts for the cross members, rip a couple fence planks to size and other assorted cuts, and a single battery lasted the entire job and was still working full steam! Even though the battery time was more than ample even for the reciprocating saw and blower, I would get at least one extra if you are going to use these tools moderately. After reading reviews on the blower, I feel compelled to comment. I installed two exterior doors a few days after receiving this combo kit and kept the blower at close reach to keep the work surface area clear of debris. I patched about a hundred feet of cracked concrete and used the blower to clean inside and along the cracks before applying the patching mix. After finishing with my router table, I used the blower to clean all the chips and dust away (while outside). These are the kinds of jobs I believe this blower was made for, and it excels at them. My six-year-old son putters around with the blower while we work on things, and I noticed the other day he successfully cleaned the entire garage floor working around all obstacles. We usually use brooms and the air compressor, but this blower was much easier to use and did a better job. My opinion of this kit is beyond exceptional.

I will try not to bore you, or to "plug" the Makita brand. I am giving you my personal opinion as per my experience over the past 2 years.
A little background...I am a carpenter/remodeler and work with a friend of mine. We have alot of Makita in our trailer, as well as other brands, like Dewalt, Porter Cable, Craftsman, Bosch, David White, etc. As you can see, we are not partial to one brand. We try to buy the best we can find, at a price we are willing to pay. Being professionals, we are less inclined to worry about price, and more concerned in quality and ease of use features.

As with all tools...do your homework. Ask valuable questions and answer them honestly. Do YOU really need 18 volts, or are you trying to better your neighbor? Do you NEED a cordless hammer drill?

Me..? Yes I do. If you read my review on the DK1052DL kit (here in Amazon) you will get alot of info on the 6347 M-Force drill, 5620 Circ saw (my favorite), and the JR180 Recip saw. I love that kit and stand by it. The reason I bought this kit is simple to me. After having great experiences with the DK1052, I wanted a hammer drill but really needed the jig saw. The best price I could find was $270 and $299 respectivly. Buying the complete kit is really the only choice. Granted, 2 batteries aren't always enough for me (which before is why I bought a 6347D drill kit in addition), but for a homeowner/enthusiast it's a great kit.

The recip-saw that came with this DK1032 has a different, updated blade holder than my other one. This one has a "knob/collar" that you turn to release the blade, which stays in the "released" position after the blade "pops" out. All you do is stick another blade in, and the collar rotates to the lock position. Nice feature. We'll see how it holds up. The older one I have has a "slide" lever, which works fine, even though it has been loaded up with drywall dust.

The Circ saw is excellent (see my review of the DK1052). Another person had commented on not being able to make great miter cuts when building a deck. Don't try to do it freehand. This is a circular saw, not a miter saw. By the time you set up a jig in order to get a clean, straight line, you can have the cut done on a miter saw. This saw is like any other circ saw...it will cut where you point it...it will get off line when you do. When you have a sharp blade in it, it will cut until the battery dies.

The drill impressed me when I first saw it. Same weight as my 6347. Basically the same type of clutch torque setting too. I like this drill better than some others, because of the 2 rings by the chuck. One is the torque ring, and the other is the drive/drill/hammer ring, which can be changed independantly of the torque ring. Some other drills, you have to rotate the torque ring all the way from a torque number to drill then to hammer. With the 8443, you can go right to hammer from the torque setting you want to use for that fastener. It doesn't spin as fast as a corded drill, but it's a cordless, it's not going to.

The jig saw is great too. I've used it to cut steel studs, sink openings, fiber cement board, etc. The Ridgid cordless jig saw we have on board has a better tool-less blade change than the Makita. It has a springed lever (much nicer) where Makita has a clamp style. The Makita has a knob on top, you have to slide into the "activate" position, turn to open the jaws, insert the blade, turn to tighten, and then slide the knob into the "deactive" position. It does hold the blade tight, and the knob doesn't get in the way when done correctly, but the Ridgid can be change in about 5 seconds, and the Makita takes a little longer. But the Makita has tool-less base plate positioning, and can be moved back to allow a closer cut to an edge (ie...cutting a floor up close to a wall).

Next..the blower. Yes it seems a little goofy to have, but it's there...might as well use it. I don't use it often, but it does come in handy. Example is when we finished a deck recently, we used it to blow the saw dust off before the customer saw the deck. It was easier than dragging the shop-vac out. I've also used it when doing a filter service/clean on a furnace.

Lastly...I don't think there is any skimping going on with the tools. These are the exact same things you get if you buy them separatly. The only difference is you don't get a case for each individual tool, or additional batteries and chargers.
If you want a great all around kit...Definatly consider this one. The price is right for all the tools you get. And they are excellent tools. Remember, these are cordless tools. They cannot, and should not be expected to, do jobs that require a heavy duty corded tool. VERY few cordless tools can. Do your homework.

This toolkit is absolutely wonderful. I'm especially impressed with the drill and the jigsaw. I use the drill all of the time. The blower isn't good for much, but other than that this toolset is the kit to have. However, it only comes with two batteries, i've bought more since, because 5 tools with 2 batteries doesn't go very far, even though the batteries last longer than any i've ever seen.

So far, this router meets all my expectations; it's precise, reasonably quiet, and particularly suited for use in a router table. The only thing that bugs me is the cutting depth adjustment screw: why 5 turns per inch? Either 4 or 8 turns would make a lot more sense, and make it much easier to set a specific cutting depth from a "zero" start. However, I like the tool well enough that I guess I'll learn to live with this quirk.

Great tool very powerful .A little heavy but very well made compared to other companies out there.Iwould highly recommend this tool to anyone who does a lot of router work.

I recently purchased the 5616-20 router. As I was waiting for it to be shipped I read some reviews that had me concerned. It seems that under the table mounting was not allowing room for the collect wrenches. When I received my router I proceeded with the task of mounting it to my table. Mine being a homemade table with a �" aluminum plate meant that it was necessary to drill mounting holes. Which interfered with the existing holes. So I rotated the mount by 90 degrees. This put the opening for the "T" wrench up front and allows me to utilize both front and back wrench openings from either side to change collects. Making it an easy job. I am 100% satisfied with the performance of this router.

Out of the box Milwaukee quality is a joy to work with. Soft start motor is great. Adjustable fence is a great feature, though I use it very little. Miter adjustment is the best design I've seen. 2 x 2 x 1/4" walled tubing will put a strain on any cutoff saw and the Milwaukee motor did smoke up on the tail end of the cut. Motor must be given time to cool and cuts have to be done slowly. These saw are not replacements for horizontal band saws. The spark catcher is well designed. Vise has to be fully closed for saw to locked closed for transport. Generous sized based makes for easey positioning. Cutoff saws in general wear down the wheel diameter and limit the cut capacity adding expense to production work.

I ordered this saw from Amazon about Christmas time and actually received it after the holidays. Prompt delivery. Saw cuts well and is built very tough. So tough that moving it by hand is a bit of a work-out. It weighs a bunch.

If you are looking for an alternative to a bandsaw for average use; but need accuracy -this saw is it. A real Milwaukee....

Great machine, lots of power, I would say best in its class. I use this machine to cut 1/2" plates and 4" sch80 pipe and it cuts right through with no problem. Would recomend this product highly to serious metal worker

At first, I was very impressed with this saw... it could do anything! It was exactly what I needed for my small projects. However, after just four months, It BROKE!! The part that you insert the blade into snapped off!! Fortunately, This product comes with a good warranty, and I got it fixed for free!

This is the first jig saw i have owned, so i have nothing to compare it too. Everything i have tried to cut with it, it cut with ease.

I have owned this jigsaw for over a year. It operates smoothly and vibration is nil. Power is excellent. Great features. Blade stays straight on curves with little if any tilt. I thought it might not be all that durable until it fell 6 feet from a shelf to a concrete floor and had NO damage. I own a number of Milwaukee tools, all of which are excellent, and would just love a Milwaukee 6266 jigsaw, but this saw is so good that I can't excuse getting rid of it for the Milwaukee. Very hard to beat for the money.

Laser Guide # 21367 Radial Arm Saw

After mounting the Laser Guide on my ancient 12 inch radial arm saw according to the instructions, the red laser light was so diffused on the wood to be cut that it was useless. I was about to return it, when I noticed that the light was hitting the inner edge of the carbide tips on the 80-tooth blade. Said saw blade is .110 inch thick, except at the carbide teeth, where it is somewhat thicker. I tried several thicknesses of brass shims made for dado blades between the Laser Guide and the blade -- a 0.020 inch shim was the thinnest that moved the laser beam off the carbide tips and onto the wood. (E.g., a 0.016 inch shim left most of the laser beam on the carbide tips.) With that shim installed, the laser beam became a bright thin line at the precise location on the wood to be cut. The beam is as thin as a line drawn by a just-sharpened number 2 pencil. Start the saw and less than one half second later, the laser light comes on.

Depending on the blade on your saw, you may need a different thickness of shim, or no shim at all. (The instructions fail to mention that a shim between the blade and the Laser Guide might be needed.) If the kerf on your blade is the same as the blade thickness, you probably will not need a shim; otherwise, it would seem that a shim (or two) would be necessary. (Kerf: The area removed from a board by a saw, determined by the thickness of the blade plus the amount of set to the teeth.) I used a brass dado shim, because that is the only kind I own.

This device will ONLY fit a saw with a 5/8 inch arbor, which is the standard size on most radial arm, chop, and compound miter, saws.

The instructions say to replace the outer blade washer with the Guide. Instead, I sandwiched the Guide between the shim and the original blade washer, which worked fine.

Cons:

... A bit pricy. After buying at Amazon, I found nearly identical models at our local Home Depot and Lowes, for less money...

... As mentioned above, for the laser beam to shine on the precise edge of the cut, a shim of the proper thickness might be needed. If you do not own shims, do an Amazon search on dado shims. Multiple shims of various sizes can also be used, in lieu of a single shim. The shims do not need to be brass.

Pros:

... Cuts may not be more accurate with the Laser Guide, since I was pretty careful before; but it is now much easier to tell exactly where the spinning blade will cut, before cutting anything. So, in that regard, fewer mistakes should be made. I.e., using a square, pencil in a fine line on the work to be cut, and align the laser beam precisely over that line, and the cut will be exactly there.

It inspires confidence when you can see exactly where the blade will cut. The only thing you have to remember is the blade will cut to the RIGHT of the laser beam (assuming you have mounted the guide on the left side of the blade).

... The beam reminds you to keep your fingers away from the blade path.

... The pencil line on the thing to cut does not have to be on side closest to the blade because the laser beam projects over the entire saw table. I.e., if the line is on the non-blade side, the laser will [also] hit it there.

... There is a productivity advantage when cuts do not have to be absolutely accurate; e.g., as in making wooden stakes for plants. Mark where to cut and it you can align the blade to that mark MUCH faster with the laser than would be possible by aligning the blade teeth.

... The device comes with three wafer-sized batteries already installed. It also comes with 6 spare batteries -- a nice touch. Have not used it long enough to rate battery longevity, but when they die, the guide has to be removed from the saw, since it needs to be on a table to remove two tiny screws; then replace the batteries.

... For feather-edge trimming, you do not need to mark the piece to be cut. You can eye-ball the amount to be cut, based solely on the laser beam.


I rated this item at 4 stars (versus 5) because the sales information and instructions fail to mention using a shim, and now I have one less shim available for dado work.

Simple, effective tool. Easy installation and spot on guiding. Learn your marking habits and you will cut better than ever before. Check around for pricing, and new "dual side" lasers. You won't be disappointed.

I have used this for more than four-months. I can tell you - you will hear all types of "hype" about this unit.

Most individuals do not read the instructions and they should. The documentation says "align the laser line with your cutting line". Not off-set - not in-set, just dead on! This has worked very well for me and it can for you.

There is no waste, overcutting or undercutting. If you eyes can see straight, then you shiuld be able to master this after the first cut. This has made my DeWALT 706 a more usefull tool than before - saves time too.