Power Saws Reviews

This saw uses less than quality materials and is manufactured with very lax tolerances. Welds are ground off, painted over and have holes. I could do better with caulk and paint. There are NO assembly instructions. The only guide to aid in putting it together is a parts lits. Some parts do not work, ie, nuts and bolts with irregular threads. I would not buy this item again. I don't think it will last and the shipping charges are outrageous. I paid a lot to ship to Texas and now see those charges are half of what they were when I purchased 3 weeks ago?????

Cheap, cheap, cheap. Go to a butcher supply and spend your money there.

Listen to the other reviews, I should have. I waited over a year to pick up this saw from when I saw it introduced.
I ordered this from a local reputable wood shop and assembled the unit per the included directions.

At the point of blade installation I was appalled to find that the blade was 1/4" out of alignment. The blade could not be lifted to full height through the red insert. Heck, it was 1/16" from hitting the cast iron frame lip that supported the insert plate.

Per the local repair center's instructions I dissabled the unit and even pulled the motor off to relieve the pressure/stress on the frame and bolts during the alignment process. I was able to take it from .250" to .042" out of alignment but the tie rods connecting the trunions are warped. Including my time, I've had the unit in the repair shop now for over 3 weeks since purchaing the unit, and have yet to turn the system on.



One thing I did find out from working on this left tilt blade is that this saw is very difficult to work on compared to a traditional cabinet saw or contractor saw. If your looking to save space in your shop as I was, dont pay the extra for the compact footprint and the motor. Its not worth the hastle. Delta has low quality control on this product.

I bought this base and never installed it. The idea of clamping a power feeder to a machine table never seemed safe to me and also you are limited to a corner mount. Instead get an extra base from Delta, part number 1347994 will get another base for $34.47. Then you just unscrew the power feeder from one base and screw it to down on another base.

This unit is not recommended.
After countless hours trying to adjust the blade so that you can make a vertical cut I find that it can't be done on this model.Very dissatisfied with this and will now search for a real scroll saw

the blade guide assembly was defective, the saw did not work---I had to purchase a new blade guide assembly from bosch for 9.00. If this does not work then the saw is worthless Thanks bscdray1@verizon.net

I thought I was getting a bargain here -- a genuine factory-reconditioned DeWalt Trim Saw for only $145, free shipping! Unfortunately, I was disappointed with DeWalt twice!

1) The "reconditioning" must have been little more than taking a quick look at the saw, because it did not work, and anyone at the factory should have seen this. When I got the saw, I charged up the battery, put the blade on, and then put the pack in. When I pulled the trigger... NOTHING. I fiddled around with it and eventually after slapping the battery pack in firmly must have jolted something because the saw would come on and off intermittently while holding the trigger. Ridiculous.

2) Even if the saw worked properly, it was not (in my opinion) a DeWalt quality product. The blade guard was flimsy plastic, the base plate was thin and flimsy metal. There was no rubber grip on the handle. The trigger lock design was awkward. Compare that to my 14.4 DeWalt driver/drill and it looks like two completely different product lines. Maybe nowadays the 14.4 line is the 'cheap' line -- but when I bought my 14.4 drill, it was the top of the line, and everything about the DeWalt Drill says quality, durability, and functionality. I have since seen the 18v version of the trim saw, and while it seems a little better all-around, I'm still not floored by it. Take a look at DeWalt's 18v jig saw -- THAT is what I wanted.

I wanted a lightweight cordless circular saw, but DeWalt let me down. I settled for a Ryobi 18v 5" saw. Nice and lightweight, powerful enough for me (plywood jobs, etc.), laser line, but a little flimsy on the base plate. Price $50 plus battery + charger $40 -- total $90!!! I consider this my 'temporary saw' until DeWalt or Milwaukee or somebody makes my dream saw. Until then, I'm very happy with the Ryobi.

I am a building contractor for over 20 years, and I've been looking for a quality blade that does not burnout or warp so quickly. So I purchased a few of these Freud blades, and once again I have been let down. My company purchases over 30,000 blades a year, and we have yet to find a blade that gives us the durability, consistency and reliability that a 200 homes per year builder demands. The only blades that have come close is the Oldham blades, but they still need some fine tuning. Overall, builders need a smoother blade that does not heat up as fast. All saw blade manufacturers try to coat the sides of blades in some form or another. All the coatings fly right off within the first 2 minutes of cutting. Does anyone manufacture a smooth blade. If so please contact me. I will purchase volume (as I'm sure any contractor would do with such a product)

I was given this as a gift (after asking for a Stanley) and the locking mechanism simply doesn't. The first thing it did was slice open my finger. It made for a lovely Christmas. I wouldn't buy this if I were you; it's not going to save you money in the long run!

The company I work for in their startup purchased this machine.
I was the one that set it up, which probaly took 10 hours. The sliding table, almost feels gritty instead of smooth with an occasional bump. The very first time we tried to use the scoring blade, the alignment motor fell off. The customer support for this was a nightmare, because no one there nows anything about it. The instruction book is very vauge with its 25 or so pages. The crosscut fence has yet to hold any tolerance at all and the stop scale will change from the front position to the rear. My reccomendation is to spend the extra 25 to 30% extra on a Felder.

A scroll saw for less than $100 - I thought I would toss up a "Hail Mary" and hope for the best... Well, it was a $90 lesson in why comparable models go for $200+
If you're looking for a "cheap beater" that you can use for roughing-out stuff, this is it. If you want something for fine scroll work, look elsewhere. I'm not complaining, but a Hawk costs $999 for a reason... what do you expect for $90?

What I like:
- The price. For $90 it's the cheapest one available.
- The weight - the whole assembly is solid cast iron. Nice, but doesn't compensate for the rest of the flaws.
- The clear plastic guard is actually designed pretty well and moves up, down, out of the way, fairly easily. Unfortunately, it introduces a lot of parallax which caused me to end up removing it to see what I was doing.
- The air nozzel is adequate, but the vibration from the machine causes the nozzel to move around a lot.
- The table is long length wise and will support wood nicely behind the blade...however, see what I dislike below.

What I dislike:
- The size of the table is too small width-wise. Little support to the left and right of the blade. There's also little support in front of the blade.
- The table is cast iron, however, it had the worst grinding I've ever seen. Deep circular gouges and very rough. Rough enough to leave scratches in soft woods.
- The plastic insert around the blade doesn't sit flush with the table and there are no set screws to adjust it. It also has an enormous L-shaped blade cutout. If you're scrolling a small piece, you tend to fall into the divot, then into the blade cutout. Annoying. So basically no support close to the blade.
- Lots of vibration. I mean , LOTS. I bolted it to a wooden pallet then clamped the pallet to my bench. It vibrated enough at high rpms to cause the bench to "walk".
- The vibration causes serious arm fatigue. That, coupled with the small amount of support in front of the blade, made me feel like I was wrestling the piece through the blade. I was exhausted after 30 mins of this...
- Blade tensioning is done with a tiny plastic turnscrew at the back of the machine which will chew the skin off your fingers before you get the blade tight enough. So you'll need your Channellocks to tension the blade.
- Pin type blades require a huge pilot hole, unsuitable for fine scrollwork.
- The motor comes out over one of the holes used to secure the base to a table. The half-circle cutout is also just too small to get a wrench in there. So you'll have a hard time locking down the right side of the base...

And, drumroll please, the hands down most annoying, irritating, frustrating feature of this machine:

Blade changes!
The hallmark of a good scrollsaw is fast, toolless blade changes. This one says "no tools needed to change blade" - LIES.
You have to unscrew a metal plate on the side of the motor housing to change blades. This is the only way you can actually SEE the lower arm that holds the blade. You also need to get your fingers in there to help guide the blade and get it seated. This also exposes the lower arm, which, when turned on, is highly dangerous if left uncovered. This means you can't leave the plate off. SO, you must remove three screws, remove the plate, change the blade, and reattach the plate. If done for speed you might be able to do this in under 5 minutes...

So, if you want a cheap scrollsaw, that you'll never change the blade on, that you use for roughing out cuts, this might be good for you. However, I get the same results, faster, and better on my bandsaw... This scrollsaw now sits in a corner, unused. I'm saving up for the DeWalt or a Hawk.