Table Saw Blades Reviews

Simply the best blade on the market. I ordered a full kerf before for my craftsman but it wasn't strong enough to rip solids. After getting my new cabinet saw I can really appreciate the performance of this blade. You won't look back.

This is a great product, and you can get it, along with any other products on Amazon up to $500 Free! Participate in this special promotion and get a free $500 Amazon Gift Card at this web site: nocoststuff.biz/amazon

Had I known what a difference this blade makes I would have bought it much sooner. Definitely worth the price since it cuts through hard woods like butter. I also have to tell you Amazon is the best place to shop online. No better place, no better price.

I gave the Forrest WWII blade 3 stars based on the price compared to its performance. Originally, I purchased a Freud LU83 blade for my Craftsman 1hp table saw. I was very impressed with the performance and the cuts of the blade in pine, red oak, oak plywood, and 1 inch melamine. The only exception was the occasional burns (in red oak) when I slowed the rate of feed to reposition my hands.

Consequently, due to all the hype about the Forrest WWII blade not burning, I bought the WWII to satisfy my curiosity. I installed the WWII in the same position as the LU83 to make a fair comparison. When I turned on my saw I did notice a difference between the sound of the WWII compared to the LU83; The WWII was more quiet and appeared to run smoother.

However, the difference in cutting was negligible. I cut an 8 foot 3/4 inch piece of red oak and had a slight carmel like burn along the entire length of the cut. At that point, I was glad Forrest offered a 30 day money back guarantee because I was disappointed. I then reviewed the table saw setup proceedures included with the WWII and followed their recomendation to raise the blade 1-2 inches above the top of the wood. I completed a second cut without any burn but the smoothness of the cut was no better than the cut with the LU83. I completed several cuts in pine, red oak, oak plywood, and melamine, and none of the cuts excelled the LU83.

After using both blades I have to say dollar for dollar, the Freud LU83 outperformed the Forrest WWII. I'm quite confident if I would have raised the blade for the Freud LU83, as I did with the Forrest WWII, it would have alleviated the occasional burns. The fact is, the Forrest WWII is more than double the price of the Freud LU83 but it does not perform twice as well.

For the cost, I was very impressed with the Freud LU83 but believe the Forrest WWII blade should have performed better. In fact, I was so impressed with Freud that I purchased a Freud 80 tooth Diablo for my Radial Arm saw and a Ridged 90 tooth (Made by Freud) for my cut off saw and I am very impressed with their performance.

The best part is that I bought all three blades for almost the same cost as the WWII blade. Please don't get me wrong, the Forrest WWII is a great blade, I just believe the Freud LU83 is equally as good for half the cost.

Spendy, but nice...
This is a very good saw blade. I've never had a saw blade that cuts rips of 3/4 plywood so thin you can see light through the pores of the end grain. This one does it without shattering the cut off.
Overall the blade runs fairly quietly and cuts cleanly. I do get some light tooth marks in hardwoods but they clean up easily.
Take the time to read the information sheet that comes with the blade. There is a good discussion about how to true up your saw to take full advantage of the blade. Well worth the time to do it right...

i have only used 50.00 or so blades in the past.on the reviews only did i decide to go with this blade.i am glad i did its as good as everyone says.now i want another for a spare.

I bought this for my Craftsman contractor's saw to replace the piece-o-junk fence that came with it. I was not disappointed. This is a solid fence. It went on my Craftsman saw without any problems and without any type of retrofitting.

The fence is easy to adjust with the microadjustment dial.

The only issue I had with this fence it that it has to be locked down with both levers very tightly, otherwise it will move when you're cutting. There is no real click or feedback when it is locked down. I've gotten used to double/triple checking to make sure that it is secure.

I've noticed that since I bought my table saw 4 years ago, they have improved the contractor saws quite a bit, especially when it comes to dust collection and fences...

I now have the U26 fence installed on a JET 10" contractor saw. Rock solid and rips to within a few mils of setting after I got my viewing angle/technique standardized. If you're an accuracy nut, can microadjust with a dial indicator against the fence to essentially dead nuts. Easy to install on the JET and should be on any TS with mounting holes in the cast iron 8" either side of the blade. Haven't had a chance to build any jigs for it yet other than a sacrificial wood fence face, but the channel on the top of the fence will be very useful for sliding jigs.

Three tips which should help installation/function/appearance: (1) After struggling to attach the fence to the sliding head, I cleaned up the four 5/16"-18tpi machine screw threads and mating holes in the head with a tap and die set - got easy then. Machining is rough as mentioned elsewhere. (2) It's in the instructions, but a little WD-40 on the rail applied with a paper towel made for very smooth slide action. This fence has an exceptional silky smooth sliding action. (3) Black automotive enamel touch-up paint (small bottle with the tiny brush) nicely covered scratches on the parts.

It sure beats the heck out of the JET fence I've been using for a couple of years. The Vega U26 is an excellent value.

Very easy to install, slides like silk and when locked in place it is very secure. When you put the indicator on the measurement you want and lock it, it doesn't move. For the money it can't be beat.

I had a good Delta blade on my Delta miter saw for almost 8 years. So I'm used to good blades. I work with all kinds of wood. Maple, Oak, Walnut, including plywood. This blade cuts it all great. No chips, splinters, and it is extremely sharp. You can hardly feel the blade hit the wood. The end grain cut is amazingly smooth.

I went and ordered a combo blade from Freud for my tablesaw.

The title says it all, you can't beat this blade. I really don't think there is any room for improvement here. I don't know what I did without it before! If you've got a decent chopsaw and a stock blade, you are missing out. This blade supercharges your miter box with glass-smooth cuts, less tear-out, thick carbide for many resharpenings, no blade flex (that I noticed) and therefore, perfect finish grade crosscuts. Leaves the edges as sharp as can be. Be careful when you first take it out of the box, this blade is truly sharp. YOU NEED THIS BLADE! Now I'm looking for more Freud products. Way to go Freud!!

We have tried all types of blades. And some are better than others!

When your making some of the finest cabinets and doors in the world for some of the most demanding customers you can't second guess your self! Or worrie about your saw blades integrity!

These blades will amaze your customers with fine bevels and hair line tight cross cut joints at any angel with any type of wood!! Great for cabinet panal saws and compound radial sliders! In 10" size.

When asked how we get our cuts so tight, we tell them about the Freud 80-tooth LU85R010 "Ultimate Crosscutting" blade! If your as serious about your projects as we are about ours don't skimp on your crosscut blades! Buy the LU85R010 From Freud!

And Fillet Your Wood!

I have been wanting a Powermatic 66 for over 25 years but until now had to make do with a much cheaper table saw sold by a popular chain store/catalog outfit. That saw did the job, but shook like Elvis Presley and could not be properly adjusted. Well, I have my Powermatic now, and I'm very pleased, but putting it together has been frustrating. Buyers should be aware that they are really buying a "kit" - not only is some assembly required, but some correction of manufacturing faults may be needed. The first (and biggest) problem I encountered was that the left extension wing tilted up when bolted to the table, leaving a low spot of 0.02 inch when a Starrett straight edge was laid across the assembled table. Not good! The cause was that the left edge of the main table section was not ground square with the top. Correcting this bit of sloppiness required three hours of hand fitting with a machinist's scraper and square. The second principal difficulty was discovered after frustrating hour trying to mount the front rail according to instructions. I finally realized that it could not be done because of inadequate clearance in the mounting holes. Drilling and filing fixed this. The third problem had me baffled for awhile: With the blade tilt stops set accurately at 0 and 45 degrees, the pointer could be set to register correctly at 0 or 45, but not both! After some thought, I realized that the scale had been mounted too close to the pointer. This was corrected by drilling a new mounting hole for one of the screws.

After three days of work, the saw is finally up and running. It's been too much work, but I'm going to love this saw. On the plus side, I did not have to adjust the table to put the blade parallel with the miter gauge groove. Also, vibration is minimal. I can start the saw with a nickel balanced on edge (but not a penny). Most importantly, the trunions are pretty much dead on. Measuring from the same tooth to the miter gauge grove, the distance varies no more than 0.004 inch between front and back (blade all the way up) and middle (blade down). Also, using a Starrett machinist's square, perpendicularity between blade and miter gauge shows no perceptible change as the blade is raised or lowered. These tolerances are critical because poor machining could have created errors that cannot be adjusted out (as I had with my old saw). Now that the saw is together, my only remaining complaint is that there is a low frequency (2-3 second) harmonic noise of undetermined origin. I'm sure this is the best saw available for the money, but I would have gladly spent another $100-200 for just a little extra care in machining and assembly.

and this is a fine tool. I have owned two 66's over the years and have yet to have a complaint. Thank goodness they are still being made. They are heavy,which makes them very stable, (be sure to have a lift truck deliver it). But, if you want to do accurate and fine woodworking you need this saw.

I ordered the saw a few weeks ago on Amazon. Delivery took a while, as the freight company had to lug it across the country. Finally scheduled the delivery -- freight company was very easy to deal with and put it on a liftgate truck with no hassles. You'll want this service, by the way -- unless you happen to have a forklift in your garage.

No surprise - The pallet is *heavy*. Took about an hour to uncrate and take off all the easy-to-remove weight. That leaves about 400 pounds. Tip: if you have to move it far (such as I did, down to a basement workshop), rent a handtruck like those used for moving refrigerators. With the handtruck and three guys, it was an easy move.

Pretty much everything was dead-on accurate out of the box. Once hooked up to power (remember you have to supply your own power cord), it cuts smoothly and cleanly. The trunion moves incredibly easily, especially considering its weight -- but doesn't budge once locked in place.

All in all, it was worth the wait (and the weight)! Highly recommended.

This is a nice saw for the money, no problems with it. I've had one project where I wish I had a 12-inch saw or sliding miter, otherwise this works for everything around the house from chopping 2x4's to fine trim work. It's light and easily moved too. The blade that comes with it is OK and works for trim work, but it would be nice if an 80-tooth blade was included!

I've had this saw for a couple of years. It is a great saw that has never bogged down or been at a loss for power. The horizontal handle is superb. The blade is not that bad either, however it did splinter some oak & some plywood I recently cut. The only drawback is the size. I recently had to cut some shelves that were 9" wide; too big for the saw. I wish I had the 10" sliding saw (36-240). If you plan to keep your projects small to medium sized this is an excellent saw. ! If you are doing larger projects, i.e. shelves, bookcases, etc. then invest in the Delta Sidekick 36-240 sliding miter saw. I have also added a LaserKerf to mine, which is a great addition ...Over all, this saw is phenomenal for the price and I am going to continue to buy Delta products.

Excellent tool. Easy to assemble and the manual makes it easy to learn how to use. Comes with a very good blade and the side and back extensions are a great asset. The tool is easy to learn and use and is very well finished. Spending more money would be a waste of time.

This is my first and last table saw! Easy to set up and cuts perfectly with little to no adjusting right out of the crate. The moble base is an excellent accessory that make it easy to roll to the side when not in use. You will not go wrong ordering this saw. Trust me, you will NOT be disappointed. Excellent customer service from Delta. The only problem that I had was with the Biesemyer fence. Seems that Biesemyer had a bad production run on the rails that fit this saw. Called Biesemyer and they sent a new set of rails without delay. If you have problems with the holes not aligning up with the table saw, let Biesemyer know. Other than that, excellent buy!

this is a great tool. It may often be more than you actually need, but I can't imagine it ever being less than exceptional. If you have the room and the money, I would not hesitate to buy this saw.

You will want to consider where you will put it and how you will get it there. With the 50" fence it is very big, and your 220V needs to be located correctly so the cord can reach and you are not tripping on it. These are things I did not think clear through before the saw arrived and I should have. The other thing to think about is that it is extremely heavy, and it ships in effectively one piece. I needed a lot of help getting it into a basement shop, and after I got it there I decided I could never move. Assembly is simple, and everything is rock solid. After you have it in place, all that weight (and the associated power) is a wonderfull thing.

I am very happy with the fence, and have no complaints about the mobile base, though if the floor is not level, it does not have much clearance when you are moving the saw.

Delta really thought about the entire package when they put this together. Not only do you get one great saw, but they include the mobile base, a great blade, the table board, and the zero clearance table insert. They have taken all of the guess work out of buying multiple items for a saw and wrapped it into one package. ...

It you're comtemplating over a smaller contractors saw for your shop or a cabinet saw, go with the cabinet saw if you have the room, you won't be disappointed. I was so close to buying a Delta contractors saw, I'm glad I laid out the additional funds and went with the cabinet saw.

The saw is heavy, you need one or two friends to get the saw off of the skid and onto the mobile base and a friend to help you align the cast iron extension wings. Other than that the saw can be put together by one person. It took me about 5 hours total, working over a couple of days to get it together. The saw cuts straight and true and needed very little initial alignment. The fence made by Besymeiser is the best, you can't go wrong with it. I've added the Delta outfeed table to it (see review), and would highly recommend adding some kind of outfeed table to the saw to make cutting long board that much more easier.

Overall I am very happy with the saw, it is the backbone of my shop.

I Would buy another Delta cabinet saw if I had to, but I believe I'll never have to replace this saw.

Anyone researching this fence has probably already read numerous positive reviews and user comments about this system about Incra in general.
I've found them to be largely true, but the system has some issues, too:
Yep, it DOES take up a lot of precious floor-space. This is especially compounded by moving the rails further to the right to extend rip capacity.
My fence is not flat. I read a ~.020" bow (proud in the center behind the carriage) with my dial caliper over the length of the fence. I expect I could grind this down, or shim out via a sub-fence.
The rails are LONG, and supporting them, while not required, seems prudent. This is especially true if you're dropping a router in an extension wing.
The "hairline" cursor on my positioner is not a hairline - it's tough reading that little scale, too - I think I could easily lock down 1/32" off and not realize it (this could be my vision, though).
I noticed that clamping the positioner in seems to move the fence a little. Not a big deal but it makes initial set-up a little hit-or-miss.
This is a modular product, so the terminology gets confusing. You're looking at a TSIII fence "system" - it includes the Ultra positioner, rails, a mounting plate, fence, and carriage. To Incra's credit, these items are all offered seperately, but this makes it a little more confusing. Some of these parts are identical to the router-table based systems (the positioner, the carriage, e.g.). It seems a little redundant to buy a TS AND a RT system since they share these components.
The knob to clamp down the front of the fence seems a little cheesy, and the back of the fence is clamped down with a (supplied) Allen wrench driver. Just seems odd compared to conventional systems.

Obviously these are picky little issues - it's a clever design, it's very modular (adding extension tables/ accesories is a breeze), manuals and packaging are the best I've seen, it can serve double-duty as a RT fence, etc. With many more words I could convey: the system is really flexible and will allow you to come up with a configuration that will suit your work needs/style.

I'm saying nothing about accuracy here because I think that's been covered well elsewhere.

The fence seems to remain square to the slots / blade, but it just feels unlikely that this is true when you use it. The center mount, friction from dragging hold downs, and general "flimsyness" of the system (in it's unlocked state - when locked, it's very secure) make me feel like the fence is skewing all over the place.

I know this is mixed bag for a review but when I was researching, I could find nothing other than "perfect"...

Three hundred plus dollars for a fence to be mounted to a five hundred dollar JWTS-10-JF table saw - I have to be crazy! It took me a while to justify an investment like that for a cheap contractors saw, but it was worth every penny spent. Assembly of the Incra TS III was easy with the detailed instructions provided. Minor details, such as shims, extra bolts for every occasion, and individual hardware packaging allowed for hassle-free assembly and a touch of class. Not to mention every tool needed (except a wrench) was included for ease of assembly; it took under two hours to "rough" in the fence assembly. I left it over night while I dreamed about the lumber that would be cut the next day. It took me about 30 minutes or so to make the final adjustments, and it is worth it.

I made several cuts after truing the fence. Repeatability is well within the .002" tolerances described (I used dial calipers to check measurement), as I went from 1" to 2" cuts then back to 1" with unmatched precision. The micro adjustment feature allows for adjustments as small as .001" - well within anything I will be making in my woodshop.

Everything about this fence shouts quality. I am hooked on the system, and would recommend it without reservation to anyone thinking about making a change from their standard fence.

I bought this fence after researching various premium table saw fence systems but I was initially hesitant to commit due to the high price (compared to some of the other fences out there). Being unable to find even a single poor review on this product, I finally decided to give it a try and I'm glad I did.

Once installed and calibrated the precision of this fence is amazing. The 3 included scales (1 steel, 2 mylar and a slot for a fourth) can be individually adjusted thereby making different fence and blade setup combinations easy while maintaining precision. The fence has built-in sawtooth racks which allow positive stops to 1/32" and a fine adjustment knob allowing you to fine tune the fence position to an astounding .001". Of course under the vast majority of circumstances, this level of precision isn't necessary but it sure is nice to know its possible if you need it. Further, you can move and reposition your fence to the left side of the table and back again quickly and without losing ANY accuracy.

The fence installation was straight forward and installed easily on my newer model craftsman contractor's saw. The fit, finish and quality of the various components are outstanding and once assembled the system is very robust (even with the 92" rails which I upgraded to).

Overall, I can find no fault with this fence except the high price. However, if your serious about the quality of your tools, this system is worth the price.

This fence is extremely easy to use and is incredibly solid. So many imitations on the market prove that it is a great system. However, none can match the original for all round quality and accuracy.

WOW! I am loving this fence. This fence makes my old rockwell 10" contractors saw seem like a top of the line saw. Set up on the fence was easy, however the the manual and photos in it are lacking. I made my own extension table with a router in it on a mobile base, installed the fence, set the blade and fence parallel to the miter slots, adjusted the pointer on the tape, and started cutting like a pro (Im a new woodworker). Once the measuring pointer is set there is no need to remeasure unless you change your blade. The fence glides effortlessly over the table and rails and locks down solid with the lever. All parts are heavy steel and finished nicely. This fence will outlast the motor on my saw(I hope :) ) I was concerned about spending this much money on a fence system but now that I have this biesmeyer fence I cannot image using any other fence. This is well worth the money. Also biesmeyer offers a switch mount on the front rail (Not included in the packaging). Call Biesmeyer and they will send you the mount on request at no charge. Also pictured in their manual were what they call Z-brackets that are used to mount the extension table to the saw. These brackets are not included and after contacting Biesmeyer the informed me that these are not needed. They sent these to me also after requesting them at no charge and with a great attitude.

Rail system went on my Jet contractors saw without problems. After aligning, cuts were smooth against the face of fence. I liked my stock fence, but I really like this fence. Now I have enough rail length to cut cabinet carcusses.

One problem though. Rear rail does not carry weight of fence. If rail is raised high enough for the rear of fence to rest on it interferes with mitre slot. Dropped below mitre slot and fence does not ride on rail and hits table top as it moves right to left. Seems that even if it did ride properly on rail that it would eventually wear a groove in fence faces.

Fix was easy enough with a 1/4" shim cut from teflon stock. Installed to straddle both faces from the bottom of fence. Teflon shim riding on thin rail will give excellent wear and helps fence to slide even smoother.

It's a keeper, now on with the work it was intended for. Oh yes, save the money on the extension table and make your own. [pirce] plus is a bit much for a piece of laminated MDF. [price] in material will make a great table extension.

I own a dozen or so great blades, but one of these came with my new Unisaw, and I was amazed at how well it performed. I use a lot of MDF, which is very abrasive, and tough on carbide, and I cut about 800 feet of cabinet rails and stiles, and trim pieces before the blade showed any signs of wear. This is very good life for MDF. Rips hardwood very good, and crosscuts well also. It is a better blade than the CMT products at a much lower price. Razor sharp cuts with MDF, and runs straight and Quiet. Lasts longer than the Woodworking Wizards and Signatures from Oldham, although they are top notch as well. I save my favorites, the Forrests, for furniture. You can't go wrong with this one!! I ordered another one to use while my first one is out being sharpened.

Awesome combination blade. Clean crosscuts and decent rips. You can't go wrong! I have two.

This is an excellent combination blade at a great price. It produces very smooth, finished cuts with no visible saw marks. I no longer need to run boards through the jointer before panel glue-ups. I have cut hundreds of feet of Oak and Cherry with it (enough to build a dresser, chest of drawers, two night stands, a bookshelf, and a wall shelf) and the blade is still sharp! Delta even threw in two coupons for free sharpenings. Bravo on this one, Delta!