Rotary Tools Reviews

This is a great tool. Has different heads to drive common nails, finish nails, and roofing nails. This kit also includes a hammer face to do anything you can do with a traditional hammer, without the arm fatigue. Drives nails quickly and I had no problem with bent nails, even driving them at angles. Kit includes a plastic case and all the wrenches to change heads and maintain tool.

I've only used this little critter for driving 10d and 16d nails, so I can't remark much on its versatility, but after renovating a 22x24 garage into a shop, including constructing a center beam to suport the attic floor above, and triple-sistering all the joists of that floor (1974 construction is exciting to bring up to code), I really like it.

My Campbell Hausfeld HL5501 8-gal air compressor powered it pretty easily. The compressor cycled often, but didn't need any catch-up time; I could keep nailing at 100psi until I finished the joist I was working on without any noticeable decrease in performance. It put 16d nails through frozen, ice-caked 2x6 (construction work in the Sierra in February is chilly) with no problem at all.

It's small and light enough that it wasn't any bother to carry around. Putting up collar ties, it just hung by its hose over my shoulder while I, atop the ladder, got the collar tie into position and leveled. Sistering joists, the palm nailer fit easily into the spaces between floor joists, even an inch above the ceiling drywall where I wouldn't have had any room to swing a hammer. I could wriggle it around and hold it from any weird angle I needed to get the nail driven.

I learned, however, that it didn't have the oomph to spring a warped 2x6 flat against the 2x6 I was nailing to. I'd have to drive in the nails to set the new 2x6 into place, then go back and whack it into place with a hammer. I don't think this is any fault of the nailer so much as my inexperience combined with the crummy, corkscrewed 2x6s I was working with. Anyway, on the 2x6s that weren't warped, it sure set them into place well.

The work went quickly principally because the nailer worked beautifully. I look forward to using it on more delicate projects, and can recommend it --for ease of use and general utility-- unreservedly.

I didn't know what to expect when I bought this thing, but have but have since become very attached to this pint-sized powerhouse. It's surely not as fast as a framing nailer on bump mode, but it's much faster than anybody pounding away with a hammmer. Plus, you have a levelent of control that you don't obtain with either of the other methods of burying nails. Sort of makes you feel like you're Superman just pushing nails into the wood with your hand.

I have enjoyed it so much that I recently picked up a second one to keep from having to change heads so often. Now I can use the finishing nail head to get everying in place, then come along with the hammer head attachment and my nail set to countersink everything. It actually makes countersinking nails fun, while reducing the chances or marring your work with an errant hammer blow (watch you fingers though - one little tap on the nail set creates a powerful whack from this thing).

Unless you frame or run trim for a living, this nailer is probably most of what you'll need in pneumatic nailers. Versatility and delightfully compact dimensions make this thing a pleasure to own. Now if they'd come out with a "hoseless" version...

I land survey - bought for drilling 5/8" holes into asphalt/concrete pavements to set 1/2" rebar for property corners-land monuments -- I used a 16" Milwaukee Magnum44 bit - This unit will walk right through the pavement - drilled 2-5/8" holes 14" in depth - and today drill a 1/2" hole through a 6"X12" depth concrete compressive strength test cylinder 4000 PSI - after drilling these three holes the battery level is still shows three lights. These is a very impressive tool - better than a 1/2 gas powered hammer drill. I would recommend the Bosch 11225VSRH to any one - and the name is correct - ANNIHILATOR.

great tool love the power indicators on the batteries handles everthing i throw its way day in day out just wish it had a chipping only mode gotta plug in my bulldog model to get that type of work done

I am a concrete contractor who since the cordless era has tried nearly all drills, hammer drills or any drill claiming to have the ability to drill 4-6 inch deep holes in concrete with close to the power of a 1 inch rotary hammer. Finally Bosch has done the job. The 11225 will drill 60-70 1/4 inch holes 4-6 inches deep in cured 4000 psi concrete. As most concrete contractors we use tapcons for all our form work and this rotary hammer has proven itself as a time,which means money, saver. We can now set forms on footings without generators or cords. Enough said.

This is by far their best. I read the reviews here then bought it. You Want This One. Not sure if other reviewers mentioned, but the nose unscrews to reveal the standard thread for things like router bases.

I've had many Dremels over the years. I've even picked up a few "antique" ones from their early years. Cute for a few quick jobs like rubber wheel to polish carving tool edges, and nice to know they still run, but for hours of routing, get this one. Dial in just the right speed for bit and material and away you go. With much less noise too.

Now, as for dating your Dremel .... well

..after reading many positive reviews first. I've had my 3981 for 2+ years and it's been handy for things I can and can't do with my other tools. Quality is very good, feels solid and like it will last. I like the electronic variable speed control and the soft start. Don't have the shaky switch problem that another reviewer had mentioned.

So far I use it to sharpen the lawn mower blade, make drywall cutouts for electrical outlets, trim the dogs nails, and probably half a dozen other little tasks.

The only drawback is that is has a cord(!) so we've decided to get the lithium cordless version as well.

I bought my first Dremel (a Model 2) in 1947. It finally gave up in 1993. Since then I have added the single speed and multispeed Multipro models to my tool box. Now the digital model comes along and is the best of the best. Its soft start, dependable speed control, and high power make it equal to any job. It fits all the Dremel attachments making it every bit as adaptable as the others. It handles all the cutting, shaping, finishing, and polishing tasks involved in my construction of miniatures and architectural models.

I have several Bosch power tools and they are all of exceptional quality and craftmanship... the Bosch 1639K is no exception... German engineering, can't beat it! The tool has a good 'heft' to it and feels very good in your hand. Loud, but quieter than other brands, this is due to a very smooth running ball-bearing motor which just hums smoothly along. (Wear some sort of hearing protection, hearing loss is cumulative over time. Check out Peltor #H10A Professional Earmuff Hearing Protectors) A roto-tool of some type is a must working with a lot of drywall and, as one reviewer stated, you will find that the circle cutter is VERY handy! It has been some time since I've noticed anyone still using a drywall/jab handsaw, although I still have one handy. The unit also works great on cut-outs through concrete backer-board. I also use 1/4" shank bits; the 1/8" having a proclivity for snapping; I guess I'm too rough on them. At 2.4 lbs, the Bosch is 1 lb lighter than the Dewalt and 1/2 lb lighter than the Rotozip. It may not sound like much, but high or overhead work will wear you out... lighter is better. Dealing with gypsum dust from drywall, you will want to blow out the tool after each day's use with a compressor; it will extend the life of your (any) rotary cutter.

Wrenching to change bits is no problem to me, heck, before the days of 'quick-change', thats what you had to do. I like the bump-off switch; very safe, very handy; I usually just tap it against the drywall to shut it off. This tool 'spells' quality and is well worth the money!

I seem to have more control with this type of rotary cutter, rather than one with a side handle. Perhaps it has something to do with having your hands closer to the tool.

You need a wrench to change bits, but it's fast and simple to apply plenty of force to absolutely hold the bit in place.

This Bosch has a simple and safe switch. Pull the slide switch out one click for the 25,000-RPM speed, and all the way out for 30,000 RPM. Bump the switch forward (hand, forehead, knee, whatever), and it stops quickly.

The tool must have terrific bearings, because it is very smooth when on, with a nice hum to the motor. The circle cutter is a useful accessory -- from small holes, up to 12" in diameter. The case is quite nice, with metal clasps, and room for the circle cutter and extra bits. Since 1/8" bits snap too easily for my temperament, I mostly use the much stronger 1/4" bits (tool comes with 1/8" and �" collets).

As with my other Bosch tools, this one is well designed and built - clearly a professional grade cutter.

I read these reviews often but had never been moved to write one until now as this is one of the first products that exceeded my expectations.

I had a medium size dry wall project coming up and had heard about these rotary saws but after reading the reviews for them all, I was in doubt: everyone said the DeWalt and Rotozip were loud, messy, difficult to control, and broke bits off often. I like Bosch's products so I decided to take a chance on it. It has been great. I have now finished the project and I can say that all the complaints about the other models do not apply to the Bosch. It is not too loud nor does it send a cloud of dust in one's face. After a couple of cuts it was easy to control and I used the same bit for two weeks without it breaking or seemingly going dull. I have not tried it with real hard surfaces like tile but so far it has been tremendous. It has saved so much time and seems so well made. I liked it so much that I hope this review helps others who are deciding what product to buy.

I tried three David White Mark 4 laser devices before I bought the DeWalt. Two of the Mark 4's had indistinct oval blobs instead of sharp dots, the third actually had a broken window. The dot produced by the DeWalt DW082K is far superior. It has a small cross with a sharp, bright dot in the center. It works great, but could use some improvement in the dampening system. A slight movement of the unit causes the beam to deflect wildly for several seconds before completely stopping. I marked spots on the floor and ceiling as indicated by the laser dots. I then rotated the DW082K in 90 degree increments for the full 360 degrees. Each time, the laser dots exactly covered the marked spots. I concluded that it is very accurate, at least for my use.

I have owned this for about three weeks now, and it has been a life saver.
A lot of my lighting installations have been on sloped ceilings and with this Plumb Bob, layout was fast and accurate.
I would recommend this to anyone needing accurate placement of lights, fans, etc.

as a drywall fixer in the uk i find this invaluable and for the price , excellant value. paid �120 which is about $230 but these products cannot be obtained in the uk for your prices.

My cutter has cut everything from balsa to hardwoods, and even some wire and plastic. After two years it really isn't worn out, but I am now ordering a replacement-- just in case I need it in the next year or two. In answer to the last reviewer who wonders what bits are available to fit Dremel tools. If he would use the universal chuck he could use any bit he could shove into it down to sub-miniature bits like I use to drill holes through toothpicks used to make small parts on ship models.

I use all the dremel products to carve my projects..My company would like to purchase at a wholesale prices, to order special bits that i use on a regular work load. I would like to request a list of all the bits that fit your dremel tools. I plan to place a hugh order,and don't know how to contact the dremel company in order to take care of this matter..can you please send me information for business purchases.
I need this information asap..as I have projects waiting to be finished.

Thank You for your time.
Viki Pierce
The Artworks Gallery of Carvings
559-905-0385
@1334 robinson ave.
Clovis,California.93612

I needed something that could cut through wood like butter and I found it! This great carbide slotting saw cuts through pine like nothing! If you take enough passes, you can cut right through! This bit hogs out alot of material. So if you like to use it for hobby work or if you need something that will hog out slots in wood quickly this is the one to get. In fact, I have almost used mine up to the point where I think it's time to get a replacement! I peronally reccomend that you use it in pine. it really lets the wood chips fly!

I bought this unit to get into a small space in the rear of my engine compartment and it fit the bill. I was drilling out some broken bolts in an exhaust manifold. Using the diamond point tool and the tungsten carbide bit I was able to dimple the bolt enough to use a right angle Ryobi cordless to do the real drilling. Be careful using real drills as the speed is excessive to drill in steel. Cutting using drills in steel requires much slower speeds, and while the Dremel can go slower, it does not develop enough torque at those settings. Be sure to use the collar lock in the attachment and not the spindle lock in the Dremel tool itself or it will break the internal shaft.

I also used it for cutting off the stub of the bolt, and found the right angle attachment allowed me into spaces that the tool would not go otherwise.

All-in-all a good Dremel attachment but with the same limitations of the basic tool. Use for smaller jobs.

The attachment is great. I use my Dremel with it on more than off. It makes the job easier.
You can get it for $19.99 at The Home Depot. Call Amazon before you order and they will lower their price.

Before you call, please have the following ready:

The item and model number (identical brand and model number to the one we carry at Amazon.com)
Price (including shipping charges, taxes, gift certificates)
Store name, location, and phone number
Important: Price match must occur before purchase.
Now that you're ready, contact one of our customer service representatives at (800) 358-3096, Monday through Friday from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. Central Time and Saturday from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Central Time.

This should prove to be a first class item. When working in cramped areas this is better then the Flex Shaft since you can get the whole tool in where you need it. Plus the quick installation is so useful.

I had no luck finding this product in stores. Everyone said the model Dremel I had was too old. So of course I did what I should have done first...I went to Amazon.com and there it was. It was a brand new battery pack and it works just fine. Thanks Amazon.com!

I've made it a habit to always purchase an extra battery pack, along with the battery recharger, when I purchase a MiniMite Dremel tool. When I use one battery, another is recharging for continuous use, and little waiting time.

I refuse to buy this product from you for the following reasons! You advertise that I save $10. by buying a battery pack from you, then charge 33 percent of its value, or $10., in "postage and handling". That makes the $20.00 item cost $30.00. My biggest question is this: How can you possibly charge $10. postage for a tiny, light weight item such as this?
Roger Carlson
Winona, MN

The Bosch 11248EVS is a rotary hammer drill using a spline drive for the drill bits. The capacity of this drill is 1-9/16" solid and 4" for the core drills. You also have capability to use other attachments such as a ground rod driver, chisels, etc. in the "hammer mode" (more on this later).

The house I moved into a few years ago was a basket case. It seemed that everything needed to be repaired or replaced. The time was right for me to find a rotary hammer drill.

There are different type of drives. There are: SDS, SDS-MAX and spline drives. As I understand it, SDS is for smaller diameter holes. SDS-MAX was designed for larger holes. It seems that spline drives seem to fall in between SDS and SDS-MAX drills. Any supplier of drills can supply you with drills and other accessories for your drill.

There is some debate if spline drives or SDS-MAX last longer. Some contractors claim the spline drive "teeth" shear off rendering the bit useless. So far I have not found any claim to be reliable and fault is with the user. The service centers find it is the abuse of the tool and contractors or whoever buying poor quality bits. I have used many spline drive bits all without fail.

This Bosch 11248EVS is a spline drive tool that has two operations. The first one being the rotary hammer drill. This is where a drill is rotated, much like any other drill, and then is struck with a "hammer" to pulverize the concrete or stone that you are drilling. During this operation the drill is struck thousands of times per minute with a force of about 7 foot pounds of energy. This means that each hit is the same as you raising a 7 pound hammer one foot and dropping it. May not seem like much, but remember that this is happening THOUSANDS of times per minute. In the case of the 11248EVS it is rated at 1700-3300 blows per minute and the bits rotates at 170-340 RPM.

If you use the tool in the hammer only mode you get a 20% boost in the hammering energy. To go from one mode to another you rotate a selector switch. In the hammer only mode you also can adjust the rotation of the tool in 30 degree increments. This is handy if you are using a spade bit and need to turn the bit for a better operating position.

The drill has a "soft start" feature in which the drill starts slowly and then comes up to full speed. This helps to keep the bit from walking. The speed can also be adjusted by rotating a small dial on the drill body for the maximum drill operating speed or by using the trigger. The more you squeeze the trigger the faster the drill will go. With some practice you can easily vary the speed. There is a "lock on" mode to keep the tool on all the time, but this feature works in the hammer only mode.

"Auto-Max" is a feature in which the drill is automatically set to the highest speed when the drill has been unplugged and then plugged in. I wasn't too sure if I liked or disliked this feature so I am somewhat neutral on it.

Drills are held in place by a very easy to use chuck. Pulling the locking collar of the chuck towards you unlocks the chuck. You insert the bit fully into the chuck and then release the collar. Pull on the bit and it is now locked into place. If you see red on the collar you have not installed the bit correctly. Take it out and try again. A few minuets fiddling with this and you'll be a pro. Bosch recommends using "bit grease" on the ends of the bits before putting it into the drill. You can buy this grease from Bosch or any of their service centers. You will greatly extend the life of the tool by doing this AND making sure the bits is clean going into the chuck. Wipe all and grime and grit off the spline teeth, inspect for any deformed or missing spline teeth, place a small amount of grease on the end and insert into the drill.

The 11248EVS uses 11 amps of current and has a 12 foot three prong cord. The Bosch 11248EVS is NOT a double insulated tool and it requires a GROUNDED circuit. This is NOT the time to be sharing the circuit with everybody else or you'll be making a trip to reset the circuit breaker. And... don't get cheap on the extension cord. Use a heavy duty cord rated for the drill. Use that heavy duty 14 gage or even a 12 gage cord for minimum voltage drop.

Hearing and eye protection is a must with any tool of this sort. You are drilling hard and very unforgiving materials with tools that are made of hardened and tempered tool steel and/or carbide tipped. The hammering action creates noise, vibration and dust! A dust mask is also recommended as the dust can cause health problems down the road.. There is a nice feature on the drill and that's the dampening handle. It is a spring loaded handle to help cut down on the vibration. Seems to work pretty well. I have used many other tools without and it's fatiguing.

The side handle must always be used as there is considerable torque produced. The clutch helps prevent the drill from getting away from you and spinning around without you holding it. Hopefully you'll have the presence of mind to let go of the trigger before 50 feet of power cord is wrapped around the drill! The handle can be positioned at just about any angle you desire.

A power indicator shows when the tool is plugged in and power is present. The other light is the service soon light. Once illuminated you have 8 hours of operation left and then the tools stops and will not work until taken to a service center. As far as maintenance is concerned, there really is not much to do. Keeping the case free of grime and the air vents clear of dust is about the only thing that one needs to do. The other maintenance is best left for the service pros, i.e. brush and bearing replacement and lubrication.

Actual use. When I got it I started out by drilling about seventy five 3/4" holes into 4 inch concrete. The speed is on par with other brands and may be a touch faster. The next test was driving ground rods. That was scary. Scary meaning how fast it did it. The first ground rod ran into hard pan soil and this took a while to get through. Driving it in with a sledge hammer bent the rod and made the rod useless so... that's when I tried the hammer drill method. To drive ground rods you'll need a ground rod driver and if you drive a lot ground rods you'll want this accessory in your tool kit! The hammer drill got it into the hard pan with much less effort than with the sledgehammer and it did not bend the ground rod into a pretzel. The second ground rod went into the ground like butter. I am totally sold. A 3-3/4" core bit was purchased to install a drain and this was done without too much fuss.

Hammer drills are about the most expensive tools around the remodeling or construction site. I've worked with many contractors and they say the Bosch is the tool that lasts. It is more money but in the long run they are well worth the extra cost.

The drill is about 15 pounds and comes with a fitted plastic case that has compartments for the drill, drill bits, and small accessories.

Bosch is the best in terms of build quality and overall stability. I own several Bosch products, they are very impressive, including this combination hammer. I'm sure it will last a long time and can be counted on for performance everytime time it is needed. Very stable.

Very durable, powerful, runs smoothly, one heck of a workhorse. I must say I'm so impressed.
Do yourself a favor, invest in this hammer, you will be glad you did! It is designed and built to last. The BEST of the BEST!

As one reviewer already said this is the best tool for cutting plaster walls. You can easily replace sections of the wall with drywall or cut openings for outlets/switches by using this tool to cut the plaster. Once the outline is cut you can remove the paster in the section to be replaced without chipping or cracking the rest of the wall. Then you remove the lathe and fill the hole with drywall. I was able to cut about 25 feet before I wore out the bit. Well worth the money. Use a vacuum when cutting to suck up the dust. Can't go wrong with this on plaster.

I've been trying to find a way to cut plaster neatly, and without creating a lot of dust. I've tried various bits in my RotoZip (with vacuum attachment), various bits and wheels in my Dremel, a masonry wheel in my drill, and even a circular saw. All of these failed, either because the cutter wore out too quickly, or too much dust was created. This little diamond wheel, however, has worked well. It is so thin; it creates little debris. I can hold my vac nozzle right up next to it while I'm cutting, and I capture most of the dust. I've cut about twenty feet of plaster thus far, and there is no noticeable wear (reduction in diameter of the wheel). So far, I am very pleased.

If you have ever tried to make a smooth curved cut in a super-hard porcelain floor tile, you probably gave up. I almost did. I needed to make very accurate semi-circle cut at a side of a tile that goes around shower drain. No tools allowed performing this task. All professional tiling specialists (I asked at least 5 of them) suggested nipping the tile, saying that that was the only way to do it.
All rotary cutters, INCLUDING THIS ONE, would say "Do not use on floor tile". Well, you would not be able to do the job using ONLY this diamond cutter, but wait, there is a solution that worked unexpectedly fine for me.
Follow these steps:
1. Draw a cut-off line on the front side of you tile with a pencil.
2. Using a rotary tool with variable speed capability and this cutter, work along the line making superficial groove (1/16 of an inch is enough). IMPORTANT: use low speed setting (up to 8000 RPM), otherwise the cutter will overheat momentarily; work for no longer than 3 seconds at a time, then just let it idle for another 3 - 5 seconds to cool off.
3. When you are done with the groove, set you rotary tool aside - you won't need it anymore - and use a wet saw to make parallel cuts every 1/4 of an inch. Cut it all the way up to you groove. When you're done, you can snap off cuts strip by strip at the place where your groove is, which will result in ideally precise cut on the face of your tile.
THE BOTTOM LINE: no other tool can be used to make a precise inner curved cut in a floor tile.
Smart, isn't it? :-) And I'm not even a pro!
Thanks Dremel!