Router Bits Reviews

Milwaukee always represents quality and this set is no exception. Well worth the expenditure.

If you want good, really really good, drill bits - GET THESE! The differance between these and cheap ones is unbelievable. Worth every penny. Accurately sized, finely machined, SHARP, properly ground angle, and somewhat larger sized index case with size markings that are easy to read. I first used these to drill some holes in metal for tapping. Granted I was using a drill press but I hardly felt any resistance at all in the handle. A perfect clean hole.

Good drill bits are getting harder and harder to find! These are the fastest and smoothest bits I've found for drilling metal hands down.

ok i bought a cheaper but not much cheaper bit same size as this and i did not get far into my project at all before the bearing exploded and runied my work.
i bought this one and finished that project and another with no signs of dulling and this is in oak.
PLEASE DONT BUY THE CHEAPER BITS MADE IN CHINA
Freud is great and will last

I used this bit to trim my Trex decking flush. It ate throught the Trex like nothing.

As the previous reviewer said, this bit comes sharp and stays sharp. I have enjoyed super smooth cuts in flat sawn red oak, quarter sawn white oak, poplar, pine, and walnut. I can't say enough how good this bit is for flush trimming both free hand and in a table.

I highly recommend it!

This review is for upward spiral bits, but the same information applies for a downward spiral bit. Downward spiral bits are designed especially for work where you want to go completely through the material.
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.
***I have come back to add one more comment to this review. When I just said, "use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped straight double flute bits" I doubly advise you to do that. Even with the great results these upward spiral bits give you, I just broke my third 1/4"-1/4" shaft upward spiral bit. I have to conclude that the additional brittleness that an all carbide bit gives you, leads to an ease of breaking that you will not have with a standard bit. Of course the 3/8" and 1/2" with the 1/2" shaft are going to be a lot stronger, but I will be reserving my use of the 1/4" shaft upward spiral bit only for the most exposed surfaces.

This review is for upward spiral bits, but the same information applies for a downward spiral bit. Downward spiral bits are designed especially for work where you want to go completely through the material.
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.
***I have come back to add one more comment to this review. When I just said, "use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped straight double flute bits" I doubly advise you to do that. Even with the great results these upward spiral bits give you, I just broke my third 1/4"-1/4" shaft upward spiral bit. I have to conclude that the additional brittleness that an all carbide bit gives you, leads to an ease of breaking that you will not have with a standard bit. Of course the 3/8" and 1/2" with the 1/2" shaft are going to be a lot stronger, but I will be reserving my use of the 1/4" shaft upward spiral bit only for the most exposed surfaces.

This review is for upward spiral bits, but the same information applies for a downward spiral bit. Downward spiral bits are designed especially for work where you want to go completely through the material.
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.
***I have come back to add one more comment to this review. When I just said, "use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped straight double flute bits" I doubly advise you to do that. Even with the great results these upward spiral bits give you, I just broke my third 1/4"-1/4" shaft upward spiral bit. I have to conclude that the additional brittleness that an all carbide bit gives you, leads to an ease of breaking that you will not have with a standard bit. Of course the 3/8" and 1/2" with the 1/2" shaft are going to be a lot stronger, but I will be reserving my use of the 1/4" shaft upward spiral bit only for the most exposed surfaces.

This "IS NOT" a 1/2" shank router bit set. Please correct the product description. It is a 1/4" shank set.

This set is very good for its purpose: cutting various grooves, dados, etc for plywood. If you use alot of plywood, this set works great.

If your doing some plywood joinery, these bits won't let you down. Incredibly smooth cuts with no tearout. These frued bits just "sing" through the material. Definitely worth the money.

We all know that a 2x4 isn't really 2" x 4", and plywood is the same way. These bits are undersized to compensate for the sanding process of plywood. These bits will provide a great fit without any slop.
Don't use this set for making Dado's for MDF because 3/4" MDF is really 3/4", 1/2" is really 1/2" and so on.
I hope this helps

The 5 piece set is what I initially bought. It includes the glue up joint bit, which is nice for gettting a lot of panels to line up properly while gluing. It also includes the door lock bit, which will turn your raised panel, into a drawer front by removing the material around the edge of the back of the door face.
I bought this set as well. Why? Because when making kitchen cabinets, the raised panel bit that they provide with the 5 piece set is too small for a large cabinet. (Unless you prefer that look) So I bought this set, to pick up the 3 1/2" panel raising bit. That requires a large opening of at least 3 5/8" on the bottom of your router, and the opening on your router table as well. The Bosch 1619EVS is even larger than that. The Fein RT-1800 allows for the the use of a 3 1/2" bit, but the casting prevents you from plunging a bit that size. Not really recommended, because you might accidently adjust it into the base. Their are others also, but most fixed base 2 HP routers won't accept such a large bit. So measure first.
Overall this is a great set of bits. They do a great job, and last a long time. Highly recommended.

For those reading the review of the 99-218 panel raiser, try using a 1/8" backcut on your panel and your alignment problems dissapear.

I found the Freud 97-102 an excellent product. However,I found to get the maximum profile(1-1/4")and keep the panel & rails flush in the front,I had to use 3/4" stock for the panel, and at least 13/16" stock for the rails/stiles.(The panel cutter has a 5/8" depth of cut) A better choise is the Freud 97-100 set. It has the same rail/stile bits, but the panel bit included can take as little as 3/8" depth of cut and still get the full profile! This means you can use thinner stock if needed,and end up with a much better proportioned door.

I received the Makita 3612CX1 from Amazon a couple of weeks ago. Since then, I have cut a few half-blind dove tails with it on a PorterCable Omnijig. It feels well, cuts well and is loaded with nice features such as the soft start and electronic brake. These 2 features enhance the router's utility in combination with templates and machines such as the Omnijig.

The router is also fairly quiet and is lacking that high pitch scream that other routers have. This makes it a lot easier on the ears. This router is going to serve 100% above the table, while my other 2 routers are being dedicated to the router lifts.

I strongly recommend this router, especially if you are only going to have one general purpose router.

Pros:

1) Same as 3612C, but packaged differently for $40 less.
2) Low pitch noise and quieter than my 10-year old single speed Makita 3612 router.
3) Soft start which keeps it from jumping off of jigs.
4) Eletric brake shuts down faster so it can be removed from jigs quicker without taking a bite out of them. Makes multiple cuts faster.

Cons:

1) The coupon for the router bit set is an inconvenience. Amazon should ship the bitset with the router or supply it themselves. Have to find another vendor to order the bit set from.

You can like different routers for different reasons. I had two of the fixed speed version of this router. One got stolen, I replaced it with the variable speed version and I love it for these reasons:
1. It is very quiet even at highest speed for a 3-1/4HP router. In fact it is much quieter than the fixed speed version of the same router at the same speed.
2. It is relatively small and light for its power. It is not a light router, you will have to use with two hands always. But I can do delicate edge treatments with small bits with no issues. It is powerful enough to mount under the table when you need to. That's why I think this is a very versatile router.
3. Plunge action is very smooth and capacity is good. 3 step debt gauge works fine although I use it rarely since the router is powerful enough to do most cuts in one pass.
4. Fit and finish is great. You can tell it is a well-made tool when you hold it. Power cord is long and soft - does not stay coiled when you are using it.
5. You can lock it down using the height adjustment mechanism - not the plunge lever- and it acts like a fixed based router. Therefore you do not have to change bases from fixed to plunge. You always have both at your fingertips. That's why prefer this over the multiple base combo kits.. another reason why I call this a very versatile router.
6. Also the 3-piece door bit set came with the router, not a coupon. The bits are very high quality. Thick carbide tips, nice bearings. Nice wooden box.


Here are some negatives you should consider- but these are not enough for me to give it a lower rating:
1. The plunge lock lever is metal and you have to push it down with the side of your index OR middle finger. With lengthy use, this may hurt your finger. I screwed a small bent extension to mine so that I push it down with tips of my two fingers and it works wonderfully.
2. It does not have a case.

If I lose one of my routers, I would buy a another one of these without a question.

The router is great and works great just like ones i've had before. There was a great sale on it when i got it. I was a bit dissapointed to found out that the router bits that are supposed to come with it, and there was just a coupon for them. You must have to try and get them from a local dealer or somewere else ? rather inconvienent .....

I agree with the other reviewers: Milwaukee makes quality tools and this is another example. Good box, quality templates. I'm glad I bought them.

These are made really well, but the 2 things I liked best was the spare locking nut included, and the case. They give you 2 lock nuts. The quality and fit was great and the case was compact and rugged. The other sets I looked at had a cheap, hard plastic case that I would have broken in no time. One Note...most Milwaukee routers come with a sub base that has a 2 1/2" hole. You'll need the other plastic sub base with the 1 3/16" hole to use these guides. MIlwaukee Part # 49-54-1040.

If you are wanting a really high quality template set ,this is it.The fit and finish is A-1.Really nice high polish machine finish.

I bought this stuff with some doubts. I don't usually believe in chemicals, but I'm sold on this stuff now.

I used this stuff on a Jet table saw, minor surface rust, and wood glides across it like an air-hockey puck. In fact, it's so easy to push the wood I actually have to be careful when I'm setting larger pieces up on the table to cut, they slide toward the blade if you're not watching.

Some featherboards are essential for this, especially if you're used to the friction of the table "helping" you control your cut.

After hearing about the Top Saver from a friend I decided to try the sample pack. All of the products are well worth more then what you pay for them. The top saver removed discolored rings and gave my table saw a lubricated top. What a difference especially when running a sheet of Plywood. The blade saver removed all the pitch from my dado set. The dry lube is great for the mitre gage slide. The opticut works well on several levels keeping the blades cool and lubricated. The kit comes with cleaning pads and is fool proof.

I have to say I am very happy with the TopSaver,I used it 6 months ago to clean up my 14" band saw. And today it still looks like the day I cleaned it. I saw this Toolsaver kit with the small sample size bottles from the same company, the more I looked at it the more it made sice to try it.

I used the BladeSaver product to clean my 10" table saw blade;It worked like nothing I have ever seen before! the build up just melted and ran off the blade almost instantly with no smell. I then tried the Dri-Tool Lubricant;I sprayed it on the fence guides and miter track on my bandsaw table, they now move alot easier!
I then tried the OptiCut-XL cutting Lubricant? I sprayed it on the band saw blade while running.I don't know what makes this work but it really made a diffrence when cutting a piece of particle board with plexie glass plastic on it. You could hear the saw cut quieter and it was easier to feed. I then tried it on piece of old hardend hickory; I was amazed at how it cooland well the blade cut! for the first time there was no burn smell or black marks on my turning stock. OptiCut really works!
As for the Router Bit Lubricant, I have been using the RBL for a few years now, It is a fantastic product! With RBL my router makes less noise and produces a nice smooth finish, with less fuzz and no burn marks on my wood. I like that the RBL now has a finger spray top. Over the smaller glue like tip on my other RBL bottle, it is now easier to spray the bit while using my router table.

Over the years I have tried many products and home mixtures to lubricate and clean my tools. I have to admit none worked as well as the products in ToolSaver sampler. If you are serious about your woodworking tools ToolSaver is for you.*****!

I bought this 3 piece set as my first set. It has worked great. It is easy to set. It cuts cleanly. I am very pleased. Make sure you have a router with a 1/2" collet and a router table.
If I had it to do over I would have spent the extra money for a set with the back cutter.
Excellent product.

The popular 5 piece set is what I initially bought. It includes the glue up joint bit, which is nice for gettting a lot of panels to line up properly while gluing. It also includes the door lock bit, which will turn your raised panel, into a drawer front by removing the material around the edge of the back of the door face.
I bought this set as well. Why? Because when making kitchen cabinets, the raised panel bit that they provide with the set is too small for a large cabinet. (Unless you prefer that look) So I bought this set, to pick up the 3 1/2" panel raising bit. That requires a large opening of at least 3 5/8" on the bottom of your router, and the opening on your router table as well. The Bosch 1619EVS is even larger than that. The Fein RT-1800 allows for the the use of a 3 1/2" bit, but the casting prevents you from plunging a bit that size. Not really recommended, because you might accidently adjust it into the base. Their are others also, but most fixed base 2 HP routers won't accept such a large bit. So measure first.
Overall this is a great set of bits. They do a great job, and last a long time. Highly recommended.

I just purchased the 3 piece cab. bit set from freud and I am very excited. The set came within a few days of ordering- thanks Amazon. The bits are extremely sharp and the finish is excellent. The box that comes with the set is well constructed to keep the bits safe and free from dust, which is nice. The only concern that I initially had was whether or not the 3 1/2" bit would fit in my router base opening. I have a 7539 p.c. router and the opening is 3 1/2". I had to file the opening just a little to make the bit fit. I am sure that you will find this most acceptable. The cuts with the bits are very clean, just like the ads say, and there are no pieces of fuzz on the top of the profile on the end grain. This will save some valuable time. All in all, very good product and the price was extremely good. In fact, the cheapest I could find.

When you first receive this kit, you'll think to yourself "How much for this?" Looking at the contents and the materials you would think $15. However, use it once and you'll be convinced it's worth every cent you paid. This is one of those tools that just plain works well from your first try. It truly makes inlays a piece of cake.

When you recieve this kit, you'll say "How over-priced is this?" It's truly about a $15 kit. (Higher end materials would help to justify the price.) HOWEVER, from the first time you use it, you'll be hooked. All of a sudden the price paid seems somewhat insignificant. It's no brainer inlaying. Help, I can't stop... I just inlayed the dog...

This device is so simple in its construction, but so exacting in its results. For doing inlays, it couldn't be easier. Short and sweet-The bushing that rides on the template is designed to compensate for the width of the bit, so your inlay, and the pocket have an exact matching edge. Here is how you do it.
1. You make up a template out of 1/4 plywood, or whatever your template preference material is, using your scroll, jig, sabre or whatever saw, then sand using a drum sanding attachment on your drill press, or a dedicated station, or by finely hand sanding, to get a perfect edge, in whatever size, shape, you want.
2. Install the included 1/8" upward spiral bit in your router. (By the way upward spiral bits leave a perfect wall in the pocket, as well as a perfectly smooth bottom.)
3.Install the template guide, AND install the offset ring that comes with this kit, over the nipple on the template guide. (Porter Cable template guides are the standard in the industry, which means that most routers accept them. If they don't, they usually supply an adapter so they can. Check with the description, or information from the manufacturer of your router to be sure.) This ring compensates for the width of the 1/8" bit perfectly, so when the pocket is made on this pass, it will mate up perfectly with your inlay.
4. Set the depth of the plunge, or preset your fixed base router, to the depth of your intended inlay, let's use 1/4" in this example, and rout away to create the valley for your template.
5. Now pick up the wood that you are going to be using to inlay into the project. Take the collar off, and using the same template, you rout out your inlay. It is a good idea to set the router a little deeper than your intended inlay so you can make the inlay a little thicker, to give you room for sanding. Then, take your freshly routed inlay over to the band saw, or table saw and run it through, and out comes a 1/4" deep or a little more, inlay. If you can get a perfect face, without saw marks, you can drop it right into the inlay. If not, then you cut it a little bit oversized, and board sand the inlay to the correct depth. It is best to place the original flat side of the inlay down into the pocket, leaving the wood with the saw marks a little proud (sticking up above the plane) then when the glue cures, you board sand the entire project flush.
In addition, exotic inlays are available, which enable you to use very expensive woods. These are usually very thin, and pre-sanded, so you will have to adjust the depth of the valley for the inlay.
Anyhow, pertaining to this kit, it is a lot of capacity, coming out of such a little tool set. After you do your first one, you will be hooked. A good idea is to try one out, on scrap first, just to get down, the niceities, of glue edging etc. Inlays definitely take your work to the next level. This kit has got to be the top of the heap, when it comes to getting the most bang for your buck. Highly recommended.