Routers Reviews

I debated between this router and the comparable Bosch model for a while before finally choosing the DeWalt. Three things sold me on this router: the depth adjustment ring, the easy motor removal, and the power.

After using it in my router table I can say that all three of those features are absolutely top notch. I really like the depth adjustment ring - this makes changing bit height in my router table VERY easy and precise (no more spinning the motor housing). The easy motor removal is a plus too - all you do is release the motor lock (one handed I might add) and then squeeze the quick release tabs on each side of the motor housing to cause the motor to slide right out of the base. Thats it - it could not be simpler.

As for power, I have not tried to spin any huge bits in this thing, but I have used some serious ogee bits in white oak, poplar, and pine. In every case, the motor handled the cuts in one pass without bogging down at all and the cuts were super smooth and burn free (I use Freud bits). In my experience, the electronic variable speed works very well.

The only drawback of this tool (and the reason I am not rating it 5 stars) is that I find the bit changing to be cumbersome. I have an older Ryobi router with a fantastic spindle lock that allows you to "lock" the spindle and then use both hands for the bit change. On this DeWalt, there is a spindle lock, but it consists of a spring loaded button that must be held in WHILE you are turning the wrench with the other hand. I feel this could have been designed better.

Overall, this is a great tool at a fair price. If I could do it all over again I would buy this same router.

Love the soft start and the quick release features. Sure beats the PC hand screw which always needed a plier to tighten enough. Also find the shaft lock really nice. No need to manage two wrenches at a time to tighten the bit. The power advantage over another of my routers for a small price difference well worth the added cost.

I've been working as a carpenter for more than 18 years, and this is by far the best small router I've used. Not only is it powerful, but it's light, well-balanced, and operates smoothly. It's like having a giant shop router in the palm of your hand. If you're looking for a router, I highly recommend the compact and versatile Dewalt DW618K - it kicks ass at the job site.

I've used my new Freud FT2000 a few times now (all freehand), and can confirm what the others have written. The power that this router has is impressive, but comes at the expense of being a bit heavy. However, I don't think any other 3 1/4 HP router has overcome that problem either. On the plus side, this heft gives the impression that this router will be in my workshop for many years.

My major complaint about this router is the depth-stop mechanism. It has a "quick-set" feature that allows you to press a button which releases the threaded stop rod, allowing you to quickly move the rod up and down. Once you release the button, the threads are reengaged and you can then turn the rod to make fine adjustments. The problem is the button that releases the rod, doesn't hold the rod well once it is engaged causing your depths to vary after several cuts.

After looking at many routers, using several, I bought a Freud. For the price, you cannot Go Wrong. When it arrived, the Left handle was broken/cracked, but still usable. The next day I called Freud (not the number in the manual, Use 800-334-4107)and they promised to send me a replacement immediately. I cannot say how long it will take to get here, I just talked to them an hour ago. Will post parts arrival time when it arrives. Anyway, the soft start is great, and it plows through oak with ease. The collet reducer they ship..throw it away and buy the 1/4 collet and another nut. The edge guide (I reviewed it as well), don't waste your money if you are doing precision work, buy a Micro Fence if your budget can afford it. I would buy the router again, but I don't think I'll ever need to.
Added 5 days later: New left grip arrived uneventfully via US mail, fit perfectly.

A 3 1/4 HP plunge router - at this price point - with the features this one has. It's like a blue light special!

I bought this router approximately 4 years ago because I needed a large plunge router to table mount. The Frued FT2000 seemed to be a logical choice because of the standard features (especially the extra long height adjustment knob) and the price.
I have never regretted this purchase.

During those four years I have built numerous projects using this router. It remains table mounted approximately 95% of the time and has all the power and adjustment I need to turn even large panel raising bits.

I have used this router as a hand held, but it IS large and heavy. While these attributes are actually desirable in a table mounted router (large mass = reduced vibration), they can be tiresome for hand held use.

If you are looking for a light weight router for freehand use, look at something smaller. However, if you are looking for a powerful, heavy duty router to table mount, you could pay much more, but.. why would you want to?

So far, this router meets all my expectations; it's precise, reasonably quiet, and particularly suited for use in a router table. The only thing that bugs me is the cutting depth adjustment screw: why 5 turns per inch? Either 4 or 8 turns would make a lot more sense, and make it much easier to set a specific cutting depth from a "zero" start. However, I like the tool well enough that I guess I'll learn to live with this quirk.

Great tool very powerful .A little heavy but very well made compared to other companies out there.Iwould highly recommend this tool to anyone who does a lot of router work.

I recently purchased the 5616-20 router. As I was waiting for it to be shipped I read some reviews that had me concerned. It seems that under the table mounting was not allowing room for the collect wrenches. When I received my router I proceeded with the task of mounting it to my table. Mine being a homemade table with a �" aluminum plate meant that it was necessary to drill mounting holes. Which interfered with the existing holes. So I rotated the mount by 90 degrees. This put the opening for the "T" wrench up front and allows me to utilize both front and back wrench openings from either side to change collects. Making it an easy job. I am 100% satisfied with the performance of this router.

One problem people have with the Porter-Cable router base is that the hole in the base is too small to accept some of the larger diameter bits that are now available. The hole in this base is larger than the hole in the standard base. However, the Porter-Cable bushings that work so well are fitted for the standard base opening.

It might as well be said that if you are at the skill level where you are using a router you are at the skill level where you can make this yourself. All that is needed is some 1/4 inch thick plexiglass and the ability to drill and countersink three holes. Get this if you want to avoid the hassle of making your own custom base.

Didn't take long after the purchase of my PC router that the base included would not do the job. Standard base would not accept a �" round over bit. I thought about enlarging the hole someway but thought it might leave some burrs that would mark my wood. New base was the only solution. The base plate accepts the larger router bits I sometimes use just fine. The added bonus to the base plate is its clear design. This is a good plus when using the router as you can precisely get the bit on the wood by eyesight.

Clear router base plates should be standard on all routers produced IMHO.

I have made up my mind never to use 1/4" shank bits again. This posed a problem in that many 1/2" bits won't fit through the standard sub base. The large sub base permits easy bit changes, allows for the use of larger bits, and the clear plastic makes seeing the progress of your work much easier than the solid black standard sub base. In fact I purchased an extra base, the D-handle, installed the 2 1/2" sub base, and in combination, I've never routed edges and dadoes with such ease. Highly Recommended.

I bought this stand after talking to Rousseau and being assured that the stand would work well with the Porter Cable 3812. Well . . . .they have included pre-drilled holes for the PC, but that's about it. You can't store the miter gauge on-board anymore (which means the cord storage is gone also), and the fence is in the way when storing upright (although you can move it). I was really disappointed, because this thing is built really well and would have been nice to have. Amazon is picking it up in the morning.

I know it's kind of expensive, but it'sreally worth it. I was having trouble moving my Bosch "portable" table saw even though I'm a burly 6'5, 250 pound guy until I got it. It's a real sturdy stand that let's me move the saw easily - down 50 yards of gravel driveway from my shop to my house, then up six steps to the deck without hassle. I also wheel the saw to make the best use of shop space. I move it inside my shop as needed to cut large boards, or into a corner for storage. I generally don't fold the saw stand up unless I'm loadining it into my pickup.

Simple to assemble, set up and use. I have a Makita, and Rousseau said I had to make a plywood base. It works great. Better than what comes with the saw. It is built for the beasts out there, so it is a bit big to go in and out of my trailer. No more saw off, move stand, saw on. Just push the button and(be careful..pinch hazard!)fold up the wheels.

I looked over the machine at the woodworking show. The machine is really neat but what concerned me was the quality of the joints it produces. The glued-up samples and the samples the demonstrator was cutting all had big gaps in the dovetails. I have hand-cut my share of dovetails, in fact never using any machine but a bandsaw to do it. The thing about hand cut dovetails is that you can get the fit much closer, get that Krenov vibe. This machine produces what to my eye is a very sloppy looking joint, which because the cuts are perfectly parallel, looks nothing like a hand cut joint to a trained eye. If truly "tight" dovetails can be produced I would like to see some pictures. hand-cutting dovetails is not that hard, and not really that time-consuming. I might invest in a rat at some point but only if and when I develop a product line which requires a lot of dovetails.

I agree with what all the other reviewers said. I've had the Leigh Jig for many years and just bought the Woodrat about a month ago. After just a few days of using it I sold the Leigh Jig. The Woodrat is that good and can do that much more.

Mark Levin
www.marklevin.com

The Woodrat is a wonder of engineering unlike any other router jig on the market. Not because of its complexity and certainly not because of its deceptively minimal appearance, but because of what it achieves through ingenious mechanical simplicity. While other router jigs may do some things well, the Woodrat is in a class by itself and here is why:

First, the Woodrat way is the craftsmen's way, just turned on its head a little. This has to be the best part of owning a Woodrat. Yes, you can make any joint imaginable with the Woodrat, and yes it can completely replace a router table, but the beauty of the Woodrat is in how it lets you work. Once your head stops spinning from the initial shock of the Woodrat's unique approach, it will hit you. The Woodrat lets you think like a woodworker. In fact it throws the doors of creative wood joinery wide open. If you can conceive of it, the Woodrat can help you do it, and in a manner very like what woodworkers have always done. Only now you can do it with far fewer tools, far faster, and with far greater repeatability. The learning curve is steep, but once the fog begins to clear the Woodrat will send your mind on an amazing joint making adventure. No other jig will offer you this kind of freedom and versatility. The others might cut dovetails, finger joints, and maybe even mortise and tenon, but they will never be able to offer you the flexibility, elegance, and creative control that a Woodrat WR5 can.

Second, the Woodrat is a complete system. Buy the machine, a Woodrat plunge bar, Woodrat's excellent bits, and attach your plunge router. That is all you will need to do some amazing things. Try cutting true half blind dovetails, with asymmetric spacing, an elegant 1 in 9 slope, in a houndstooth pattern, with any other router jig! The Woodrat can do this right out of the box (well after you install it on some free wall space anyway). There are a few very simple jigs you can make for it if you want, but I have found myself either not needing jigs or using the Woodrat to make my own custom jigs for itself and other machines. Its method of controlling your router makes a dangerous tool as safe as it can be, and you've not just bought into some vast array of accessories, templates, and upgrades. The Woodrat is simple, self-contained, and extraordinarily competent.

Third, every router jig is only as good as the cuts you make with it, and here the Woodrat really shines. It has the ability to power feed smoothly and efficiently through climb cuts to avoid tearout. It allows you to approach the work piece from any direction you choose, again avoiding tearout. It offers a variety of ways to securely and safely hold the work piece or pieces. And it has the finest range of dovetail and straight cutters anywhere. Yes, Woodrat cutters are HSS and not Carbide, but for good reason. Carbide cutters must be shaped to midigate the inherent brittleness of their bonded grain structure which is why carbide dovetail bits are so stocky and unrefined. The cutting angle of carbide cutters is also a compromise and while they do cut hardwood, they don't cut it very well. Woodrat's HSS bits are much better suited for real wood. Even though they do need frequent sharpening, the all HSS construction allows them to have a 105 degree cutting angle which, unlike carbide bits (that mash there way through wood fibers) shears wood fibers like a sharp hand plane. The other benefit of HSS construction is that the entire bit is structural and can therefore retain incredible strength even in the smallest and narrowest bit profiles. Take a look at the refinement and elegance of the Woodrat dovetail bits compared to any carbide dovetail bits. They maintain proper dovetail slopes, yet are long, thin, and elegant. A skilled craftsmen could hand cut dovetails with a thinner throat, but not by much!

Great tools are only as good as the minds and hands controlling them. The Woodrat is a great tool. If you can't cut dovetails by hand the Woodrat will allow you do cut them, but so will lots of other router jigs on the market. If you can't cut a decent tenon to save your life the Woodrat will save your life for you, but other jigs can do that too. But once you have a Woodrat you'll realize that it's the only router jig on the market that is as good as you will ever be, thereby insuring its place in your shop for as long as you work wood. Buy one. Give the less adventurous their confining templates, metal fingers, and clunky carbide cutters.

I purchesed this router to cut aluminum doors for new locks. Using a special carbide router bit the locking nut continued to loosen and apparantly the collet was defective. I called customer service and they shipped me a new one...so the real test will come next time it is used. The router itself is very smooth and balanced and with the D handle very easy to control...until the nut loosened anyway. Now if the new collet and nut hold up the next time I use it I'm sure all will be well.

I'm a home woodworker and wanted to by a new D-handle router with the latest features. When DeWalt's new line of routers came out, I sprung for the 2-1/4 variable speed model. I'm not a router expert, but loved it from the get-go. It's very comfortable and managable, easy to hold and route with one hand. The detachable cords are a great feature. I just love the variable speed, makes me feel like a pro using this router! Now, I'm also a mechanical engineer and I can be fairly critical with a tool purchase. This DeWalt router does come with a case. And it should, it's a beautiful tool, and I like to keep it that way. The collet lock button is in the most awkward location, hard to get at with even my slender fingers. I think it could have been oriented in a more open direction. And there are no clear plastic side shields to snap in place to limit the extent of sawdust that this router can kick out. My old Sears router has this feature. Would these things have prevented me from buying the router had I done a hands-on before buying? Probably not. I still think DeWalt makes great tools. They just don't take it to 100% to give the woodworker all the creature features. But for all I know, maybe some of these issues exist with other brands of routers at the same category/ price. Knowing things like this ahead of time will at least prepare you for some of the unexpected things that you can probably still accept and claim it as a good purchase as I did.

I've owned this DEWALT DW618D router for about 5 months, and I have to say I love it. I've used it on several projects and it works very well. The 2 1/2 HP is plenty strong, and the D Handle fits very comfortable in my hand. At first I was disappointed It didn't come with a case. But now I'm glad, usually the case is to big and takes up to much room..

The concept is appealing. Treat your edges with this bit and glue them together. More glue surface means a stronger joint.

The problem is that one must be exact with the positioning of the bit...and I mean exact. If your're off by a hair, your error is mutlplied twice by the same error on the other board. In addition, the cut of the bit takes off about 1/8" off each board. It also would have helped if the company published the center point of the bit. I assumed it was 1/2 the overall height.

To be fair, this is a well made bit with plenty of heft. Running it around 18000 rpm produced the best performance. If you are interested in this type of edge glueing you might also want to take a look at the company's other offerings, particularly the finger joint edge glue bit. This bit does not need to be exacrly centered but raised or lowered 7/32" to provide a match.

This glue joint bit is excellent for aligning board surfaces. It also enhances the surface area moderately, thereby adding some strength. For further strength, use it in conjunction with biscuits. I had bought this Freud reversible glue up joint bit as part of a cabinet set.
The problem is getting the glue seams on multiple boards to sit flush. Normally when clamping, one board might sit a little higher, or lower than the one next to it. Clamping is of course an answer, but is only effective if you clamp the heck out of nearly the entire surface.
If you are fortunate enough to own a huge drum or belt sanding stationary machine, you enjoy the advantage of being able to pass your table top through the sander to level the edges. Since most of us don't have that advantage, it would be reassuring to know that the irregular face of the bit forces the alignment of the individual boards.
You must take the time to get the registration right. To prep to use this bit, is to plane the boards, all at the same time, to a final even thickness, and then used the reversible glue up joint bit, you would wind up with a table top that would only need a light sanding.
From what I see, most people are considering this bit to be an alternative to biscuit joinery. Although I admit that you are slightly increasing the amount of board surface to glue up, it is not really significant enough to make a substantial difference in the strength of the joint. It appears that the finger joint bit would do the job of increasing surface area a little better.
The advantage of the Frued glue joint bit, is that it will give you a perfect alignment of the boards. In plain words, a flat top without irregular seam ridges to try and sand out.

In conclusion, use this glue up joint bit to align your boards, and mildly enhance the glue surface. Adding biscuits would give you even more strength.
Hope this helps.

This bit is nice, however, it was a little bit hard to set up. Once set up, it was very clean and precise over the entire length of panel. When I raised the panel after glue up, the joint was invisible. No glue lines visible. That is great. It also produced a jointed like edge on the mating surfaces after routing. Very nice.

THE SAW WAS GREAT, VERY WELL MADE AND TIGHT TOLERANCE. IT WAS VERY IMPRESIVE. THE TABLE ON THE OTHER HAND WAS POORLY MADE. THE OAK WAS SPLIT IN SEVERAL AREAS BUT DID NOT FUNCTIONALLY AFFECT PERFORMANCE. THE CUTOUT FOR THE ROUTER LIFT ASSEMBLY WAS CUT TOO CLOSE TOLERANCE AND MINOR HUMIDITY CAUSED TOO TIGHT A FIT. IT WAS VERY DIFFICULT TO GET ASSEMBLY TO FIT INTO CUTOUT WITHOUT FORCING IT WHICH I HAVEN'T DONE. I WOULD PREFER A REPLACEMENT TABLE. I WAS VERY DISSAPPOINTED IN EXTENSION TABLE.

If you are reading this review you are probably doing the same thing I was. Looking for the ultimate killer table saw to get old with. But in the back of your mind is the nagging idea that your better half may not see things quite the same way. So you look at the Deltas, Jets, Powermatics and maybe like me try to come to grips with not buying a good solid piece of Amercian steel.

Well give no more thought to your decision. JET has made the choice pretty plain.

Lets get the bad news out of the way. First, plan to devote a weekend of your life to setting up your new Jet. I got mine with a sliding table and between that and the saw it took a full weekend in part due to the incredibly poor manuals. A bolt sheared and two holes found their way into the wrong place. Only other complaints are the poorly sealed collection chamber bottom plate and the cheeseball vinyl labels instead of a decent rivited nameplate. Come on JET spring a buck or two.

Alright, enough complaining! Lets talk about how this beauty does its job. Punch on the power and this puppy snaps to life. Your first butter smooth perfectly square cut tells the story. This is an outstanding saw. Jet's attention to design and machining accuracy are evident with each cut. The fence has a useful and clever bubble magnifier to aid precise positioning. And is made in USA (which explains why its screws are sae and the saws are metric). Add the handy cabinet and router lift and it seems to me this saw is tough to beat. My suggestion is to use the money you saved over another brand and invest in Jet's sliding table. It's a bit of a challange to set up but makes handling even large panels a breeze.

I was looking for a solid, powerful and highly accurate saw with well rounded features JET delivered and left me with something to spend for more JET products.

Hope my experience helps in your decision! Happy woodworking!

saw was delivered in perfect shape had no trouble putting it together,am very happy

I have a Hitachi 3 1/4 hp plunge router that is attached to my Craftsman router table (after fabricating a piece of 1/4 plastic into a face plate to get the thing to fit the darn table). I wanted a separate router for working off the table so I wouldn't have to pull the Hitachi out which led me to purchase the Makita. After discovering the Makita on/off switch is in a place that requires letting loose of one of the handles to operate, I decided to install it in the table and use the Hitachi for free hand work (thereby requiring more fabrication work on another face plate). I'm not much on government intervention, but there ought to be a law requiring router face plates to be interchangeable!
I'm thinking Makita put the switch in that location as a safety feature to keep someone from inadvertantly turning it on when they grab the handles. Seems unsafe to me to be required to release one hand to turn it on/off. Or, maybe the designer has real long thumbs.
If you want a router for mounting under a table, this one would be a good choice. I am very pleased with all it's features except for where the switch is located.

Being in the construction / cabinet business for more than 30 years I have worn out my share of routers. This makita is by far the most comfortable router that I have ever operated. Little to no vibration,and only as noisy as an average finish sander. Be nice to yourself and get the kit with the plunge base, you will be pleased. If makita had designed it with a spindle lock for single wrench bit removal they would have scored a perfect 100%. I still give it a 99.9% dusty bob, rico colo

This router is an excellent one, soft start, electronic speed control, and very quiet. I have a furniture/millwork/woodie building business and use routers a lot. I own fourteen routers, three of them are this Makita. I have one in a router table, one in a shop built horizontal mortiser, and another for shop use. The only thing I would do different on them would be to have a one wrench blade change system. I highly recommend this router.