Routers Reviews

I am a professional handyman and I find using a hand chisel to square the router made radius type corners to be a minor annoyance. Simply put; this tool does what it is designed to do and it does it well. I've only used it on a few doors but I think it is built to last and has a little more design to it that one would think at first glance or even after using it a couple of times. I actually found myself turning the thing up side down and looking at how it works; it's cool, it works, it's built to last and the price is right...buy it; I think you will like it.

When I first looked at this I thought, "How can it know the exact corner?" But it does. When routing out a template guided area for example, leaving a rounded corner, you park this in the corner, one decent whack with the hammer, and to my surprise, a perfect corner. It is a very simple device. It's a 90 degree blade that slides along a very thin outer shell-guide.
No more chisel-chisel-chisel, and difficulty getting the exact angles. It works as advertised. Saves a lot of time, and does a superb job. Highly recommended.

If you've ever installed door hardware with square latches and latch plates in a house where all the doors arrive with radius mortising, you'll recall how much time you lost chiseling out every corner of every mortise. Buy this tool. It's cheap and simple to use and is definately not a gimmick.

I have to agree with many of the other reviewers who like this router for its smoothness, power,and low noise level. The grips are great, it plunges nicely, and the quality of materials seems top rate. However, my experience with this router has revealed two flaws that greatly detract from what would otherwise be a truly fine machine. While these flaws are not necessarily deal-breakers, those of you who are considering buying this tool may want to be aware of them.

First, as another reviewer has pointed out, it is impossible to accurately center template guides within the base plate. The user must screw the template guide holder into the baseplate, and since the holder does not precisely register into the baseplate, it is thus extremely difficult to accurately center the guides. If you use template guides and require even a moderate degree of accuracy, this flaw is a deal-breaker. Do not buy this router. On the other hand, if you never use template guides or plan on parking this baby in a router table, you'll have no problems. This would be a fine router for those purposes.

The other problem is another quality/design issue that can be remedied but is a moderate annoyance. On my machine, the release/locking lever for the plunge mechanism came loose on several occassions, making it impossible to plunge and lock the router at a desired depth. There is a small set screw in the lever mechanism that works loose and has to be constantly tightened and adjusted. This problem is not an isolated incident as it also has occured with two other cabinetmakers and their identical routers in my shop. In the end, having tired of constantly fiddling with our machines, the three of us adjusted the mechanisms as best we could, applied Lock-Tite to the set screws, and hoped we did it right because there would be no way to disassemble the levers once the Lock-Tite cured. Fortunately, the fix worked fine, and all three of us are happily using our machines without any problems. Again, not a deal-breaker and the problem was fixed, but this seems unnecessary for a $200 router.

The other router to consider in this price range is the DeWalt DW625 3 HP plunge router. Though it has more power than the PC 8529, it is the same size and weight. It's also variable speed and would be great in a router table. I've never been a huge DeWalt fan (many of their products seem overrated and overpriced), this seems to be an excellent machine. Several of the guys in my shop own them and use them for the dual purposes of plunge operations as well as major hogging through lots of material (the extra hp makes a big difference). Add it to your list of possibilities.

I like all the features of this router and for the most part, everything works great. This router follows the PC reputation of quality. I also have a 1 3/4 hp PC 690 and it seems to have more power than the 8529 which is rated at 1/4 hp more. Also, be careful with this router as I accidently dropped mine and the soft start circuit went bad. 80 some dollars later, I was back in action, but am really leary about buying another soft start router.
I don't much care for the trigger lock, but it works.

This is a great router, with good power, excellent precision, and is relatively quiet.

That said, I feel I ought to address the issue with the guide collar mentioned in several other reviews. To quite: "it is impossible to accurately center template guides within the base plate." This and other statements to this effect can only be from users who didn't bother to read the manual. The collet is shaped like a centering cone, and when you fully plunge the router with a guide collet in it, it centers itself. Then you just tighten the screws. Actually, this is pretty much how you center every other router to it's guide collet, so I don't know if these other guys have ever used routers before...

Much improved over the 7529, by the way.

I purchased it primarily for Mortising loose tenons on my furniture work. It cuts very clean. I am using it to cut 1" deep 3/8" wide tenon stock recesses using a 5/8" template guide and patterns that I make from 3/8 plywood. I use a plunge router using the steps to cut about 1/4" each pass and it works great. Be careful and take your time when using solid carbide because they tend to break if you cut to much on a pass. I have not had a 1/2" shank break on me but 1/4" shanks have broken on me before.

This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

Following is letter I wrote to Jasper Audio TWO WEEKS ago. I have yet to recieve a response from this company>>>>>>

Hi,
I bought a model 200 through amazon.com about a month ago and it really is an amazing tool. However I am very dissapointed that after only three uses it has broken. It seems that the plastic supporting the bolt hole is very thin and has broken through despite careful handling on my part. It was NEVER dropped or hit in any way so I am very annoyed to say the least after paying $40 plus shipping for this item only to have it break after three uses. I think the tool worked marvelous before it broke but now need to know if there is any warranty for it or if I have just learned a $40 lesson about plastic jigs. I'd appreciate a response as quickly as possible as I currently have a project underway that I have further need for a jig on. Thank you for your consideration.

Sincerely,
Daniel Dawson
Ft Smith, AR

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Needless to say I am very dissapointed not only at the failure of the product, but it seems that the company obviously has ZERO customer support, not even bothering to respond to my e-mail after two weeks. Buyer beware. I plan to pursue this through amazon but I can't really expect that they will warranty the product since they are not the manufacturer.

Only has two screws to hold to the freud. I pulled off the baseplate and attached the jig. Held solid. I use it with a 1/4" up spiral bit.

I used it to put in floor recepticles in hardwood floors. Worked great, and the setup is very easy. I know it's plastic, and you probably need to accept that it's a semi consumable item, but so far it's holding up fine, and the holes are cleaner than a hole saw, and I would say, just as round if not better.

As with any jig, you do need to take a few passes through scrap to get the feel of it. The closer to perpendicular you can get the pin, the better, but it's not rocket science.

I'm not fond of plastic attachments or accessories as a rule, and clear acrylic - oh no! But... the Jasper Circle jigs work very nicely indeed. Buy them, read the instructions and follow the instructions and you get a excellent circles everytime. I think I'd prefer this jig in an aluminum plate version, but perhaps that would be overkill.

Anyhow, if I ever manage to break this jig, I'll buy a replacement without hesitation. Good Jig.

The Jess Em Mast-R-Lift arrived with out any manuals or supporting documents. The template was also ordered and is nothing more than a 16 X 19 in. by 3/4 in. thick MDF board with a hole in it without instructions. The $9.90 cost for the template is excessive as a 4 X 8 foot sheet of MDF can be purchased for less money.
The use of the template requires the hole to be cut with a 1/2 inch bit with a with a 3/4 inch bearing, none of which are supplied by the vendor.

I have to say that although this is a great product, the poor documentation and support will lose Jessem customers. They lost me.

The lift itself is a great product from what I've seen of it so far. I got mine for Christmas, but it's taken me weeks to get it installed into my router table. The documentation that comes with the lift assumes you will be mounting it into a table with a pre-fab hole, in which case it's just drop it in and go. But if you are making your own table, like myself and many other woodworkers do, you are out of luck unless you've installed one before. The instructions with the lift don't address the installation process into a table at all, and only mention that there is a template you an buy from Jessem for installation into custom tables. I went to the dealer where my lift came from to look at the template to see if I wanted to buy it, and it's just a piece of MDF with a hole cut in it, and no instructions. The dealer also told me I'd have to buy a bushing to use the template. I passed.

When I emailed Jessem to get help on the installation, it took over three days to receive a reply, and when I did it was a simple 'If the instructions aren't with the template, you can find them on our web site'. He didn't give a link to these instructions, and when I searched their site, I couldn't find them. I ended up doing a web search and building my own template that didn't require a bushing.

The lift itself functions great, and I'm looking forward to working with it now that my table is nearly complete. But based on my experience with Jessem, it's highly unlikely I'll buy any more of their products. There are other companies out there with similar products, who actually care about helping their customers after they've gotten their money from the sale. Those are the companies I'll buy from in the future.

The rout-r-lift is an excellent product that can be difficult to setup. Too bad because Jessem will lose customers this way.

The template this company provides is an mdf template which is okay. It's just a template anyway. But, what I really needed was detailed instructions, a kit, something. I had just spent over $200.00 on the lift, the least Jessem could do was help me successfully install it. Jessem really needs to put a kit together, or a brief pamphlet inside the rout-r-lift box that provides detailed instructions, a list of tools and template part number information to make it a little easier for some of us who are "less than mechanically inclined". And, how about making the information available on the web site. This is one company that thinks sharing information with customers will cost them money. Pretty archaic thinking. Jessem, this is an opportunity to increase revenues.

I spent considerable time building a router table and a nice table top which I didn't want to ruin. Jessem's instructions for installing the rout-r-lift were so weak that I had to search on Google for good detailed installation instructions.

Having said all this, the Rout-r-lift is well engineered and works as advertised. Now that I've successfully installed the first one, I'd do it again. It's a nice product.

Because I ordered this item thru Amazon, I have not received it, nor am I optimistic about getting it any time soon. I'm concerned that it will not be delivered in nice shape, i.e. damaged. As were my previous deliveries, read on-

I ordered $1,000.00 in high end tools, including a tablesaw fence that arrived in TERRIBLE condition, i.e ripped entirely open with scattered and broken parts. The exposed pieces, now in two half boxes was set on my porch in the rainy weather.

It is convienient that Amazon lists no phone numbers on thier Web sites, making them unavailable for service.

I have wanted this product for some time now, and now that I am able to get it, I realize that I should have ordered it factory direct. At least they would be available and accountable to the promptness and condition of delivery.

I'm sure I will like my new Nucraft Router Table. I just hope Amazon doesn't ruin the anticipation and quality of this product.

Problem: Cast Iron insert for the P/C 3.25hp router. The plastic insert sags under the strain. I saw the devise, when I bought the "SLAB." Now, I can't find it. Need more info?

Bill

Unfortunately, this product has been MIA for over one year. I wholeheartedly agree with the other reviews that sing the praises of this product. The weight provides a stable, warp free surface that's big enough to handle panels for cabinet doors. Please take to time to review this review! It would be great to see this product available again on Amazon.

I got the router on Monday and on Wednesday the motor burned up, I have to admit I was cutting cabinet faces which is a big bit, but not a too many of them and I was cutting and assembling them one at a time allowing the motor to cool. I had to send in my other router, a Porter-Cable 690 the same model, because it had a lot of vibration. So I now have two of this model, both had problems, I would go for the 3HP model if I had it to do over again.

THE POWER SWITCH IS ON THE TOP OF THE UNIT MAKING YOU HAVE TO HOLD THE ROUTER WITH ONE HAND WHEN TURNING ON OR OFF, MAJOR SAFETY HAZARD. THE DIAL USED FOR SETTING THE DEPTH IS MADE OF PLASTIC, KIND OF CHEAP. ROUTER IS MADE IN MEXICO!!

I'am very pleased with 690LRVS, it gives you the ability to
use bits rated 23,000RPM or 25,000RPM for example.
The only thing I wish I done is the additional 45 Dollors
and bought 694VK.

When everything is working, this is a great router system. Too bad, it seldom works. I've owned the router for over a year and for 6 months of that time it has been in and out of the shop. Problems include broken motor lock mechanism, broken worm gear to raise motor and broken shaft lock. Last time, I bought extra gears and shaft lock pins just to keep it out of the shop. Any sawdust clogs the mechanism so raising and lowering are tough. I've had several other PC routers and have been extremely pleased with all of them, but this one has just about made me lose the faith.

Using the router under the table has been impossible, since I keep snapping the cheap spun aluminum levers PC has used. This especially happens when using a socket to manipulate the lever. Loosening the lever screw so that the lever won't break does not adequately secure the router. The router design is brilliant in terms of the mechanism, but the parts need to be rock solid and they are not. I am extremely dissapointed.

I have used this router only under the table (inside a dust collection enclosure) for about a year now and I really like it. The router is solid as expected from PC. It is much more quiet/less obnoxious than the 690 series and has noticably more power. I don't have a need for the speed control that much. I love the height adjustment features, and even though I would like it even better if they made it out of aluminum, it has held up just fine so far. The only thing I dislike given that all the other features make it so convenient for under-table-use is the safety feature that requires you turn the router switch to the Off position in order to use the spindle lock feature: I use the tool with a table mounted switch in a dust collection enclosure and so I had to cut the plastic safety tab to circumvent this issue. Still like it a lot.

I bought this kit mainly for the offset base to be able to route counter top faces close into inside corners. After looking at PC and other kits I chose the Dewalt because it included the bearing guide. The bearing guide is much better than using bearing guided router bits. The router bit's bearing will gum up with contact cement when routing glued laminate, and if the bit's bearing does not spin freely, it may burn the laminate. The bearing guide on the base turns only at the speed you advance the base, so I have not had it collect glue yet. It's adjustable in relationship to the cutting bit, so you can gap the difference between the cutter and the bearing to account for angles that are not perfect 90 degree angles, which could scalp the laminate. The unit seems powerful enough. Right after purchasing it, I had to use it to cut a sink hole in a post-formed counter top (the offset base was the only way I could think of to cut close to the attached backsplash) -- so through Formica and 3/4" particle board with a straight carbide bit and the task was done. The plastic case is OK, but I wish you could pack the bases in the case with the options (like the bearing guide) attached to the base. As it is, you must remove the bearing guide from the base or the case will not close.

I investigated all the different brands of laminate trimmers and the dewalt seems to be the one with the most accesories. Most people think that the old PC 310 is the best one, but you can't get any bases for it anymore. Since I needed the offset base for some tight spaces I went ahead with the Dewalt.
Like some other reviews the standard base wasn't square - probably off by 15 degrees - so I called dewalt and they shipped me a new one right away. This one is almost square which is close enough for me.
With the replacement base it works fine. Some people might be upset that the kit came with a machining defect - but now days with prices being so low and everything made off shore you need to expect these things to happen. I'm pleased that Dewalt made it right without any fuss. So I give it four stars.

I had this trimmer now for about 5 years and I do like it. I still haven't used the angle base but I have used the other bases. It is powerful and I sometimes use it for routing jobs where a larger router would be better. That said, I wish it came with a seaming kit. Also, dewalt tools seem to be a little on the loud side. I use power tools almost everyday and I appreciate a quieter tool. (I once brought a dewalt jigsaw only to exchange it two days later for a bosch jigsaw) That's why I'm giving it 4 stars instead of 5.

I got this Milwaukee Router in early 2005, and I love it. I had used a Craftsman router for over 20 years, and when it wore out, I bought a Ryobi router. The height adjustment on Ryobi locked up after a very short period and wouldn't move, so i took it back for a refund and got the Milwaukee. Best router I've ever used. Height adjustment is superb...accurate and easy to use. It's far more solid and well built than any router I've ever used. The only thing I don't like about it is the on/off switch is awkward to reach. (It's located in the middle of the housing, instead of being on the side.) I would greatly prefer this switch to be close to one of the handles so I can turn the router on or off without having to take my hand away from the handle. To me, this is a design flaw. Other than that, I'm extremely pleased with the router.

routers do not have machined subases.miter saw tables and table saws do.this tool seems fine but its base is not flat.put a straight edge across.the bushing subase is also far from flat.router users should always check the base plate.i have several routers and have gotten pat warner base plates from him.he machines a clear baseplate.you need a flat baseplate to get the best quality dados dovetails etc.i have not used the machine yet till i get my baseplate but the strap definitely feels nice and the fine adjustment is smooth.i am giving 5 stars on comfort of router.i will have it cranking in a week.

As a professional carpenter/business owner I am always buying new tools so I can find the latest and greatest for quality of work, ease of maintenance and for the safety of my guys. The Milwaukee router is an awesome router hands down. I have always been and porter cable guy for routers until I tried my buddies Milwaukee, and needless to say I had to get one. I was a little disappointed however to see that this router did not have a full 5 star rating. I read the review that was rated 1 star and I have to say that his router was put under allot more stress than it was designed for by using panel raising bits. This kind of router is not designed for that kind of use. It puts allot more stress on the router than a "weekend/hobbyist" would. I own three porter cable routers and have since replaced them with the Milwaukee routers due to there ability to take a beating in a trailer, cabinet shop, job site, and even in my own garage. Routers are used for some things and Shapers are used for other things, i.e. raised panel construction.