Routers Reviews

This product is crap! You'd be better off using kerosene and a tooth brush.
I was told that this product worked great on rust, well believe me when I tell you that it did more harm than it did help, it left my machinery with leopard spots.
I'm very unhappy with the results, you would think that for $30 you'd get a better product.

I have a mixed option about this kit.

I purchased it to remove a couple of rust spots from my table saw top. The rust remover works great. I did have to use it twice. It had the bad effect of changing the color of the table saw top to a darker grey (OK who cares). I also sprayed some on the ruler for setting my fence, and it crinkled it up, and now the ruler is hard to use (OK, I should have thought of that and not over sprayed). Over all this part did the job and I should give it 5 stars.

I use the blade and bit cleaner to clean resin from my router bits and table saw blades. That works well. However for table saw blades it is not much better than washing the blade warm water with Dawn dish soap. (and then drying the blade and spraying it with WD 40). I am uncomfortable washing my router bits with bearings. So I like the product for them. I would give it 4 stars.

The Boeshield is OK. It could be used to coat a metal product for long term storage. If all you want to do is protect the cast iron top of a wood working tool, you would be much better off just using a furniture paste wax. For my application, I give Boeshield 1 star.

I've been using T-9 for some years. Of the three items, the T-9 is really worth the cleaner and rust buster put together. It's too bad they're selling the kit and not T-9 by itself.

The rust cleaner is average. Flitz cleans better and is more versatile. The blade cleaner did clean but certainly not nine dollars better than a few ounces of Oil Eater, which cleaned gummy blades and bits lots faster.

T-9 RULEZ when it comes to keeping rusty crusty away from anything metal. It was even a good defense against a male dog's dislike of a metal bench and handtruck kept outside. It does stay sticky a long while so don't spritz and expect it to be instantly usable. Wet T-9 can stain cardboard boxes and fabric. The best anti-rust protection comes after letting it dry in a thick film.

I don't like T-9 on machine table tops except for storage, where it is the best thing EVER. It's sticky though. You have to clean hard before you can use the tool. The goo can get on wood and it takes strong solvent to get it out. If you live near salty water exposure, there's nothing better.

I bought this Dewalt router to replace a Craftsman that must be 20 years old at least. The pre-Ryobi Craftsman, which I bought almost like new at a yard sale for $13, uses no-longer-available brushes and I was afraid it would quit mid-job so I looked for a new state-of-the-art replacment. Hah! If there is such an animal, it's not the Dewalt.

The Craftsman has a nice bright work light built in (so nice), a "trigger" on/off switch on the handle (so convenient), and a one-wrench bit changing system (not great, but I like it). Rated at only 8 amps, it nonetheless has plenty of power.

The Dewalt has none of these wonderful features (except the power - but not much more that I can notice), and I can't see that any advances have been made since that old Craftsman was made. Yeah, it's nice having the plunge base, but I know how to do plunges without that if I have to. And the Dewalt surely will last for years...but so what? I don't like the thing. It just wasn't designed with the care and forethought of my old Craftsman.

I'm gonna use the Craftsman until its brushes give out, and then I guess I'll have to, unhapplily, get used to the Dewalt.

I was in the market for a new router after a failed attempt at using RotoZip (Junk: Broke after using the first bit). I gave my Sears router that I had since college to another college kid who lived across the street, so I was looking for the very best router I can find to replace it. After reading the reviews, I settled on DW618PK, but I didn't like its feel, so I exchanged it with this one. This seems smoother than DW618 but it might only be my perception. There's only 1 amp difference (DW618 12A, DW616 11A) between the two motors, and I can't tell the difference in power. Now this thing rocks. I'm getting a free D handle base as a promotion, and with it I have a finger trigger (something you can't normally have with a multi-based router because the handle is separate from the motor) made possible due to removable power cord for this router. I also purchased the edge guide, and the case which some people say is too big is just right because there's a place to keep this edge guide in it with even a clip on the lid to hold the bars. There's also a place to hold both 1/4" and 1/2" router bits, and I also can fit a circular cut jig in the case as well. Now when I need a router, all I need to do is just grab this case, because everything I need is in it (!). Plunge base comes with a vacuum attachment and accepts a 3/4" hose (it also comes with a centering jig for alignment). You'll need an adapter for most shop vac (1 1/2" to 3/4") to interface with this base. Edge guide also has vacuum attachment and for this I didn't need any adapters.

This is a complete system, and for me it was perfect. I'll be using the fixed base for a router table, D handle base to do the edges (with edge guide), and a plunge base to cut holes. Each setup can be used with dust collection system (fixed base on the router table will have vacuum on the fence) which alliviated the mountain of dust that spread everywhere when I was using my old router. Highly recommended.

I have Porter also, and this DeWalt one works as well if not better. Very easy to change the motor, adjust, etc.

Being a beginner, I wanted a table that I wasn't going to outgrow for a long time. After reading many reviews on router tables, I decided to spring for the JessEm. Yes, it's more money, but more often than not, you get what you pay for. So far, I haven't been totally disappointed. After waiting over a month, and returning the wrong item shipped, the table arrived in good shape...none of the scratches, marks, or leveling problems reported by other reviewers.

I will agree with another reviewer, that the video and manual that come with the table are not professional quality productions. They offer enough to get started on a few basic operations. For an accomplished craftsman, this is probably enough. For the price, I would like to have seen better literature and/or more (and higher quality) video. I guess part of the learning experience is experimentation and trial and error. The projects I have done turned out well, but it took a long time to figure out the setup procedures.

One operating problem I have is a sticky carriage. It's very difficult to move at a controlled speed on one end. The further I push the slide in, the easier it moves. This tells me that the carriage is too tight on the near end. I will have to see if I can remedy that one.

For now, I will give this item four stars. I would only give it three, but can I see the potential exists for five. I'll try to get more out of it as I gain experience.

Let me start by saying that I do love the table and would never part with it. The possibilities appear endless. The linear measurements are great, and the table is built to super accurate specifications BUT: I was disappointed in the few less than stellar accurracies. The table is designed to be flat, but it comes in three sections- a center, and two wings one to the left and one to the right. When installed the wings slope up to the outside. It would be easily corrected if they would add holes and attaching screws on the outer wings, so the rear stabilizing board would attach it along it's full length. Rather than drilling, I added shims under the center section edges, thereby leveling the table top. At some point in the future I might finish the manufacturing, and locate the proper screws, and drill the holes. When you get yours, you will know what I mean. It is a simple logical need that was not filled. ???
Additionally the legs are predrilled and countersunk for attaching screws. One of the holes in the legs did not line up, so I had to enlarge the opening. Now the table is perfect. I was expecting this dream machine, being all accurate, and heavenly in its precision, so finding a couple of basic flaws in its manufacturing, was a bit disappointing. Tweaking is not what I expected. I don't mind logical adjustments, so that is not what I am talking about. All other aspects of the table are very precise. Using it is a dream. Great adjustability, with setting knobs easily available, true, and smooth in tightening.
At 70 pounds it is solid enough to be stable, not on the large side.
Their is two different forces at work on this machine. On the one hand you have precision table top fixtures, fences, and adjustability. The unit is well packaged BUT: The directions are not as well planned as the table top. Some illustrated diagrams, beyond a single composite sketch at the beginning,would be helpful. Calling a part the same name as used in the sketch would be beneficial as well. Sometimes you have to decipher the alternate name. They give you word only directions in the assembly section, then you read the part name, go to the diagram to see what it is, and you can't find a part of the same name, just one close to it. It's an engineering thing, know what I mean? Ironic when you are buying a table to create the ultimate in engineering.
They provide a video with the unit, which shows you how to make dovetails, and box joints, and their respective jigs. Nice touch, but the video looks like something that we could make in our basements. Additionally, the owners-instruction manual is an inexpensive loose leaf binder with photo copied instructions. The clear plexiglas safety shield had a protective paper on it, with GE or an outside manufacturer on it, with plants in the US and Japan, maybe that is just the plexiglas, or more like the manufacturer of the aluminum precision components. Anyhow I get the feeling that their is a top drawer sophisticated engineering and production facility involved with the top, and gold plated aluminum guides, fence etc, as well as the steel router mounting plate, and their is a newer startup organization involved in the marketing, instructions, and possibly the legs. Don't misunderstand me, the ash legs are nice. Strong and well made.
You can save your money on a biscuit cutter, a dedicated dovetail jig, and several other items, by owing the Rout-R-Slide. Cutting biscuits on this is possible because you move the router into the work. You wouldn't be able to cut biscuits with a standard table, because as you try to move the wood into the bit, it would tend to jump. With this you secure the wood and move the router into the workpiece at a preset depth, although a dedicated biscuit cutter would save adjusting time, because they give you preset biscuit size depths on the dial. This thing does dovetail joints, that are like the hand cuts, completely through the work. Not like most jigs which give you a rounded machine looking dovetail. BR>(...) I am not trying to dissuade you away from buying the Rout-R-Slide. Oh contrare, you don't want to live without one. This new technology is so radical that it makes routing so improved I would have to compare it to tightening nuts with a wrench or socket, instead of a pair of pliers. The price is a little heavy, but if you haven't already sprung for a dovetail machine, the Rout-R-Slide is a no brainer, not counting the endless other possiblities that are created. One last note: Don't try using a plunge router under this table, or any table for that matter. Plunging a heavy duty spring, upside down is difficult to say the least, unless you are using the new Bosch 1619EVS which has the exclusive defeating system for the plunge spring and lock. I just bought that router, and it seems like this table was made just for that router. The attaching plate on the table is universal, so all routers will work on it, but I just installed the Bosch 1619EVS and the plate that comes with the table, mated to it with an area of raised metal that the Bosch perfectly fits into. That is something because the Bosch has the largest base. 3 1/2" bits not only work, but are able to plunge back into the base without touching. You don't have to fully extend the router to allow for them. True 3 1/2" bit capabilities.
Of course fixed base adjustable routers work fine in this table also.
The base plate that comes with this table, requires drilling to mate it to your router. A universal base, with the more popular manufacturers holes predrilled would be nice. All in all I give it 5 stars for usability, and tool usage accuracy, but 3 stars for the mixed experience, averaging it out to a 4. Buy it, you won't be sorry.

I have to add to my other review. I came to realize what the Jessem Rout-R-Slide can do when making mortises.
Since you have the option of fixing the workpiece to the fence, and moving the router instead, AND you have the option of attaching the fence front to back, AND you have front and back measuing tapes, as well as side to side, you can make mortises perfectly, with the least amount of effort.
So here it goes, you mount your workpiece by clamping it to the fence, going front to back. Loosen the fence, and slide it over to just touch the outer edge of the router bit. Note the measurement. Then to set up for the overall length of the mortise, you use the stops on the sliding mechanism, you lock your stops, at where you want the mortise to begin, and the second one where you want your mortise to end.
Now you lower your router bit, so it will clear your workpeice. Loosen the fence, using the imbedded tape guides, you move it over as far as the distance you want your mortise to begin from the edge of your workpiece, plus the width of the bit.
Let's say you want to create a mortise that is one inch away from the edge, and is 3/4" wide. If you are using a 3/4" bit, you move the fence one and three quarter inches over. The 3/4" router bit will give you a perfect 3/4" mortise, exactly one inch from the edge. (I use an upward spiral bit, they leave perfect walls, even when you make multiple graduating passes, and perfectly flat bottoms.)
If you want to make a wider mortise, let's say a 1", then after making your first passes with the 3/4" bit, you move the fence another 1/4" for your final passes. Any size mortise can be made with different size bits, by simply making multiple passes.
Since a router bit leaves a rounded edge, your tenon will need to be rounded as well. I use a Delta Tenoning jig, and then a sharp chisel to create that slight roundness on the tenon.
If you consider all of the alternative to making mortises, this one has them beat. Why? Because it makes an accurate, perfectly smooth, even walled mortise, that can be done easily, at no additional expense.
It blew my mind when I first discovered it. So this table doubles as a super precise mortising machine, in addition to all of the other capabilities. Hope this was helpful.

When I read 2.25 HP being described as "powerful," I thought this must be some kind of sick joke. I use chainsaws all the time with my carcasses, and 16" ain't nothing. First of all, let's get one thing straight, o.k.? Electric chainsaws have their limitations. That being said, I could still use it for chopping down trees and roundin up firewood. However, as for my, shall we say, clandestine operations, I have found this Milwaukee variety of chainsaw to be less than cutting edge, pardon the pun.

I purchased this chainsaw in March 2001 and immediately noticed oil leaking. I notified a Milwaukee representative who informed me that a small leakage of oil was normal but if the oil reservoir was empty then I should bring it to a service dealer. I finally did this once I was convinced that it was leaking too much and after waiting about 4 weeks I was informed that the parts needed were still on back order. In turn for my inconvenience I was given a new chain saw. Unfortunately, this new chain saw is doing the same thing. I have put out an inquiry regarding this problem to Milwaukee but still have not heard back.
I must say that I am very satisfied with the way this chain saw works and easily cuts through large sized logs.

LBuono

when the time came to get a new chainsaw I saw Milwaukee made an electric. With the advent of portable power generators it made sence. The Milwaukee power chainsaw cuts everything it goes up against. The safety features are great and dont impede the "average" guy trying to get a "job done". Its tough, dependable (as your generator), and will cut anything its gas powered "cousin" will without all the "hoopla".

The Router has plenty of power. I used it on 3/4" birch plywood to cut out some cabinet door openings and it handled the task effortlessly, not even a splinter. The draw backs... the knuckle buster bit change system. I can't believe a company as good as PC can't / won't do better. Very disappointing. Invest in the D-handle base. It is by far the most convenient and SAFEST of them all. Dust flies everywhere, so have safety goggles (glasses are not enough).

Porter Cable still makes the routers, and this one's proof. Dependable, easy to use, even makes my work look good (and sometimes that's hard to do.) Its also easy to get accesories, spare parts, extra bases, etc.

This router is a winner. It is the 3rd PC690 series router I own and they all perform extremely well.

This is the worst design of a clamp assembly The one that was talked about of easy removeal of router whe!! it doe not work for the USA. You will wear out a wrench and still not have a router attached. No strage compartment or arrangment for extra plate and tool to align router. Still dont have my router attached. but has been only a couple of weeks. lost alignment tool so had to make a sub. Got it aligned and then and to remove it to insert working bit and not have to realign it. Lousy design should have paid somebody to use the original clamp assembly loosen to platic nuts and remove router. now have to remove 4 plastic nut remove part of clamp and woshers to reconnect router have to realign it. BAD BAD DESIGN

The instruction are so bad I almost sent unit back to seller. Then the clamp assembly sent was al most inpossible to attach and adjust. Have not recived the router I bouught for this bench if I have truble assembly it to the router plate may return the table toe the seller. I am going to make a modificationto the moounting plate in the slots made I intend to increase the sise of the slot at outermost so I can install the carridge bolt after assembly to the mounting plate hope this works but!before doing this must see how rounter is adjusted, mounter and centered will followup with report

What a wonderful design!. Every little piece of this Router table is so well thought out. It is the most stable one and designed virtually for any routher that is available in the market! ( I have tried two routers that I have and they fit really well) I bought it a week or so ago and still have not used it but I am sure it will not have any problem.

The photo of this product made me think it had a straight handle and I ordered it because I already had an angled handle block. So I was disappointed to get it and discover it has an angled handle. Other than that it should be a fine product.

These push blocks are one of the best tools for saving those fingers and hands from spinning sharp objects. Plastic won't hurt your expensive blades and cutters,and the soft rubber foot won't mark your workpiece. They fit the hand very well and are comfortable to use. As one of the other reviewers noted, they don't fit on narrow pieces. So I bought 8 of em, left 4 of em stock size, trimmed 2 of em to 1" wide and two of em to 2" wide. Now I have a set for pretty much any application. You do have to be a little more cautious on the narrow widths, they want to rock, but with a little care they work very well. I use push sticks also and featherboards, but like being able to put downward pressure on the piece, especially on the small joiner.
Highly recommend these...cheap insurance and they work very well.

I recommend this item for the retention of your own fingers. It makes good sense to stay as far away from a spinning saw blade as possible. It's fairly small, ergomontically friendly and has a really good gripping pad.

I'm a sucker for a deal, and probably came out ahead with the price match guarantee and free finish sander, but I have a feeling that I'll be missing the better quality and design of the Bosch down the road.

There are a number of reasons for this conclusion. Here are a few:

1)The Bosch has a better balance in my hands, and I believe is slightly lighter.

2)The Bosch fixed router base has a better design, allowing the user to change the depth of the collet without akwardly twisting the entire router motor around in the base -- it has a simple knob that changes depth as you twist it.

3)The Bosch template guides are of a much better design.

4)The Hitachi router came smothered in grease, which is fine, I guess, but if I'm going to fork over 200 bucks, they could at least realize that the collet wrenches, bases, and motor casing don't need a slathering of thick lubricant -- only the parts that move need oil, guys.

5)The Bosch router has a much better collet. The Hitachi has two collet adaptors (1/4 and 1/2 inch shank) which are okay to deal with and are also covered in a hopeless amount of grease, yet still tend to stick to the shank when attempting a switch.

6)The Bosch motor works more smoothly than the Hitachi, which I've noticed can lag and suddenly change speeds to catch up to the variable speed dial as I twist it.

Most of my complaints are minor, and I still think I'll enjoy my purchase, but sometimes the difference between getting the job done and getting it done with an expertly designed tool is a lot bigger than the difference in purchase price.

Bought the Hitachi KM12VC router kit while Hitachi was offering a mail in rebate for the palm sander. I still have not received the sander, but the router is great. It has plenty of power and it is very quiet for a router. I am still looking for the edge guide...it is proving to be quite elusive...I may just have to buy a universal guide. Overall, the router seems very solid and should last a long time. 4 stars due to hard to find hitachi accessories.

Its been awhile, I like the soft start and quiet. Tools are getting better. Worked great in a jig I made. I put four stars for I don't know what a five should be.

Dan

This router seems well made but has a major flaw. I just recieved it. I tried it out with the 1/2 inch collett tightened fully and while routing some solid surface material (like Corian) the bit came fully out of the chuck and struck me in the leg, causing a large gash.
I again tried it with a brand new 1/2 inch straight bit tightened to my max and watched as the bit slid out of the collett. Hitachi is sending a new collett I will keep you informed.

I have been looking at this router for some time now and waiting for one of the woodworking magazines to include it in a head to head tool review. Unfortunately that didn't seem to be happening, so armed with a discount coupon I took the plunge...and I am happy to report that this is a very good tool. The motor is superb - very quiet for a router, especially one this powerful. The electronic variable speed works flawlessly and so far I have gotten great results hand routing in pine, oak, and walnut. Though the collett wrenches are cheap stamped things, they do the job. Speaking of colletts, this model includes one of each - 1/4" and 1/2". They seem to be of the no-frozen-bits variety so that is all good. I have not tried this router in my table yet as I feel my DeWalt 2 1/4 hp is better suited to that for its ease of adjustment and quick motor removal.

Overall, I am very impressed with the quality, fit and finish of this tool and for the money I am astounded. I don't like it quite as much as my DeWalt DW618, but with a pricetag that is $40 less it is an incredible value. I highly recommend it!

I own and operate a custom carved hand routed redwood sign shop, so I am always looking for a light powerful and best balanced router. www.rcwoodworksonline.com

I found it with the Hitachi M12VC, my favorite router was the Porter Cable 100. It is small and the 7/8 hp offers enough power and balance to hand route a sign even in oak.

Even though the Hitachi is much larger it weighs only a few ounces more then the Porter Cable 100. The Porter Cable is 8.20 and the Hitachi is 9.00. The PC 1 3/4 is 13.4 lbs and very heavy to use!

I really enjoyed the cost at $129.00 you can't go wrong. The Porter cable is normally $149.00 Amazon charges $195.00 and the PC 1 3/4 hp is $139.00. So for the price and the quality for the Hitachi I recommend this router.

I know I will buy another one to add to my 8 other routers!

I got one of these last year. I used it once routing 1/4" x 1/8" with a brand new bit. It overheated and refused to restart. Broken on the first day. I had it replaced but it's still very limited in it's applications, anything over 1/16 x 1/16 and I might as wel use one of my bigger routers. My router bits are Freud Industrial brand- excellent bits I would recommend to anyone, so that is not the issue.

I also purchased a Bosch 1617evs 2.25HP router and it refused to start on day 15 of use. Apparently too much sawdust is bad for it. Amazing engineering - sawdust is bad for a woodworking tool.

Rather than trying to solve my problem and get me a new router the Bosch technician was more concerned with insisting that they did not make the model in 11amps. Despite the fact that 11amps was clearly stamped on my router. After about 15 minutes of arguing with the Bosh technician he finally admitted that they had a known problem with sawdust and the switch.

Still relying on the past reputation of Bosch I purchased to more items- a router bit and 6" random orbital sander. Yes, I'm a glutton for punishment. Both mistakes.

The router bit was supposed to be a 1/2" solid carbide spiral upcut. When I made my first cuts with it I noticed it was only 3/8". When I called Bosch for a replacement the attitide of the service rep was - we can't do anything about that. And also insisting that my bit was really 1/2". They eventually - after about 30 minutes of arguing with the service rep- did agree to send me a new bit, if I made sure to return my bit. As if one of my pastimes is arguing with customer service reps so I can scam companies out of cheap router bits.

I was then foolish enough to purchase a Bosch 6" random orbital sander. It broke on the second day of use. I didn't ever bother to take it apart or find out exactly what broke, but part of the shaft that connects the sanding pad to the motor must have been involved because it had a bad wooble in it. I took it back and got a Porter Cable. This will be my last purchase of any type of Bosch product.

I was lucky enough to have purchased the tools (except the router bit) at Western Tool Supply, which has excellent customer service and helped me replace or exchange my lemons.

The router is good to use if you do not have to change the bit often. Pushing and holding in the locking mechanism as you loosen the collet is a challenge. If you tighten the bit "too tight", you might as well say "foget it" and just weld the bit to the motor because you are not going to remove the bit.

I use my round-over bit all of the time within the router. I keep the base at the right height so that I don't have to keep fussing with the settings when I use it again. Although, when you place the router within the case, you have to reduce the base to make it fit. This means the settings are messed up again. The design of the case does not give you the flexiblity to leave the height as is.

Overall, so-so router. There are many others out there, I would keep looking.

I agree with the previous review that the base is not exactly perpendicular to the bit. This can cause some problems if you are doing precision routing. I may have to come up with a shim and raise one side of the base plate to compensate for this error. What a PITA!!!

I'm looking for a collet that will accommodate 1/8" bits. Anyone have any ideas? I tried the 1/8" collet from the RotoZip but the thread pattern did not match the Colt's. (UPDATE: I tried a 1/8" collet from Ryobi one+ Speed Saw and it fit perfect!!!)

Besides these setbacks, this is one nice hand-held router. The motor has a soft start which prevents the initial kick. Variable speed is a nice bonus when using different size bits. The barrel feels very comfortable in my palm and is easy to maneuver -- points for safety. Bit change is a breeze with the spindle lock.

Great for making dovetails, mortises and pattern cutting.