Routers Reviews

I can't imagine why anyone but a production shop would buy the 7519. The single-speed feature may provide very slightly higher reliability but it greatly restricts the bits you can use. If you shop, there's no real difference in price between the two models. For almost everyone, the 7518 is the best choice.

Don't use an external speed control on this router! Porter-Cable technical support says it will burn out the router.

See my review of the Porter-Cable 7518 router for more thoughts on these routers.

I am planning to build some office cabinetry and needed a new more powerful router. I chose Porter Cable from past experience. I found two choices for making cabinet doors and drawers using a router table. The Model 7519 and the Model 7518 which had 5 variable speeds. The two routers were the same except for the 5 variable speed. I chose the 7519 because it was ... cheaper. I didn't know exactly what the 5 variable speeds would be used for.

Well the router arrived in 3 days, thanks Amazon.com. Upon reading the instruction manual, there was a caution notice twice within the first five pages, that said. WARNING,WARNING,DANGER,DANGER (you have to say this with your arms waving up and down) "DO NOT USE router bits with a diameter in excess of 2 1/2" except when using Model 7518 set for either 10,000 or 13,000 RPM". Well that just shot down all the work I had planned for this router. Having not used it I gave this router 4 stars, because I think it would run like a workhorse, except with large diameter bits. So I will be sending it back and purchasing the 7518. I should have spent the extra bucks! Looking forward to the new 5 speed.

I bought the router extension as an add-on to the outstanding porta-max series of table saw stands. I must say that I have found it to be mainly useless.

1. This router extension slides into the portamax rails and is leveled to the portamax table surface using set screws. As soon as you apply a load to the router extension, the set screws dent the portamax rails. This makes levelling difficult and of course causes unsightly damage to the portamax.

2. The otherwise excellent portamax fence is useless as a router fence. The vibration and pulling motion created when routing with the extension table cause the fence to slide no matter how hard I was able to crank down the friction cam.

3. The thickness (or should I say thinness) of the particle board top and the choice of mounting points makes clamping an alternate fence impossible. Applying appropriate clamping force causes large bowing and flexing of the laminate top. The result is that once you discover that the portamax fence can't be used, you discover you can't clamp a straight board as a fence either.

4. The choice of the pop-out ring sizes in the plastic insert are such that the Dewalt DW-621 cannot be bolted to the insert and must be bolted to an intermediate plate which is then bolted to the insert. This is mainly Dewalt's fault since the DW-621 base is famously small and narrow.

The bottom line is that for $100 you do not get much. I only got the plastic insert which I built my own table around. Anyone looking to add this to their portamax should think twice. Save yourself the hassle and just buy the plastic insert.

Like most home improvements contractors, I place a high value on tools that bring 'shop' performance to jobsites without taking up valuable space in my vehicle and/or several heavy trips to load and unload.

This router table does that and has replaced other router tables because it is durable, accurate, more versatile and takes up a fraction of the space.

Like Rousseau's stable and accurate table saw mounting system, the extension table setup and adjustment, once done, rarely needs adjustment through repeated setups and breakdowns. You slide it into the table saw stand and you're ready to set up bits and/or fences.

While the router table is a great extension to the table saw stand, I use it just as often by itself by just spanning it across horses or a garbage pail(most sawdust goes straight to where it belongs. Though you could rig a shop-vac without too much thought if you need better dust removal).

While Rousseau's table saw fence can be used in this configuration for some applications and as a stable and accurate stage for jigs, their router table fence is another fine tool that deserves very serious consideration too.

Additional removable base plates are readily available(or can be easily made in the field). This allows you to mount a variety of tools to different base plates and swap them rapidly.

Several years ago, when I first bought the table saw stand, router/extension table and router fence system, I had doubts about its durability,.. and I'm beginning to wonder how many more times it will pay for itself and how many more years of abuse it will take for me to finally be able to claim I was right all along.

)

P.S. I found this company's customer support to be one of the best I have dealt with, and if y'all read these things, I'd like to thank you again for helping my distributor get your product to me more quickly than they thought(or told me was) possible.

The unit is a nice addition. For some reason, while the RA 1161 base that come with the router comes with a hex key to allow depth adjustment from the top if the router is installed in a table, the RA 1164 which is dedicated to a router table has no provision for depth adjustment from the top of the table. It looks like the new base design does accomodate this feature.

What can I say, if you have the right Bosch router this is a must have no matter what brand table you use. It works very nicely and saves alot of time if you only have one router. If you have funds enough to buy a second router than you don't need this.

It's great to not have to remove the baseplate from the router to install it on the table, just flip the clamp and slide out the router motor head!

Ordered this table and got to me just fine. However it did take a bit of time to assemble. The good side of that is now I know how everything goes together if it should break someday. Some that reviewed this item found the bit hard to change, My guess is they are incompitent. I have had no trouble with any of the operations or features with this product. Either myself or one of my crew use the table once or twice a week. My advice, buy the tool that works right the first time, this is one of them.

First off I must say I purchased this table because LOWES had put them on clearance for $138.00 and I thought, what the heck.
I have several BOSCH tools and have been pleased with all of them. I have found this table to be handy to have in the field and serves me well during various remodeling tasks. I have a 1617EVS under the table and have not experienced any of the bit changing or fence issues others have posted. I've run edges on MDF for flat door panels, made trim from composite Tuff Board as well as pine and various other trim carpentry applications and I not have had any issues or complaints with the table. The real plus I feel is it's size and portability factor. It takes up little room in the truck and I take it to every job where I find I use it for something. While my tasks are not as demanding as cabinetmaking, I suspect the table could be used for those tasks if properly set up and adjusted. I did however have my buddy make an aluminum mounting plate to replace the composite plate supplied. Not because of a specific problem, I just felt it was a need "upgrade". All in all, I feel it was a worthwhile purchase.

Home Depot has the table and stand assembled for $175, so I took a chance. I was very nervous due to the bad reviews. Here's what I've found. First off, the Bosch 1617evspke does not mount on the 'b' plate with the 'j' pattern as described. It drove me nuts. Just align the 3 tapered head screws to base plate 'b', forget the 'j' pattern. It can only go on one way. The above the table depth adjustment works great. The fence is a bit complicated, but is otherwise excellent. I want to address a couple of issues that concerned some other reviewers. One is base plate flex. There is none. The base plate is suspended on EIGHT screws. There is no room to flex! I'll bet the reviewer who complained about base flex never took the time to properly adjust the height of the support screws. Second is the difficulty of changing bit. This is true if you are used to lifting the router/plate assembly out every time. However, that's not the design of this table. Simply take the motor assembly out of the base form under the table, change the bit, stick it back in. Takes 2 seconds. Don't mess with the fence. This is an excellent table, and not deserving of some of the criticisms. I would check the local Homedepot since they have much better price.

At one time I had planned to stock my shop with all PC tools, now they can all sit on the shelf next to Black and Decker. This router has difficult ergonomics, difficult bit changing, and the variable speed controller malfunctions, reducing power. PC really made a lemon with this one. I own a PC belt sander, orbital sander, jig saw, and this router. Only the small orbital sander has not suffered electronic maladies.

I spent a good chunk of change on this router 2-3 years ago. It got great reviews at the time.

I am a weekend woodworker and I take good care of my tools. With high price, light use and good maintenance I was repaid with this:

1. Motor lost at least half of its power within 2 years. Has trouble cutting small dadoes in poplar. Problem may be related to the known issue with the switch on the handle, but I don't really care to find out, especially since PC has discontinued it. I only use it to round over edges in soft wood now.

2. The knob that pins the depth setting rod failed totally. I am not King Kong or anything, but even my casual use was too much for this feeble part. Now it is impossible to set a plunge setting.

I have had good experiences with PC in the past, but my experience with this product makes it impossible for me to pay a premium for that name brand, at least for the foreseeable future. Will wait to see whether this was a fluke or an indicator of things to come.

I just found the Hitachi M12V and have ordered it to replace this miserable unit. Funny that it is a much more powerful machine and cheaper today than what I originally paid for the 7529. Live and learn.

I have to agree with many of the other reviewers who like this router for its smoothness, power,and low noise level. The grips are great, it plunges nicely, and the quality of materials seems top rate. However, my experience with this router has revealed two flaws that greatly detract from what would otherwise be a truly fine machine. While these flaws are not necessarily deal-breakers, those of you who are considering buying this tool may want to be aware of them.

First, as another reviewer has pointed out, it is impossible to accurately center template guides within the base plate. The user must screw the template guide holder into the baseplate, and since the holder does not precisely register into the baseplate, it is thus extremely difficult to accurately center the guides. If you use template guides and require even a moderate degree of accuracy, this flaw is a deal-breaker. Do not buy this router. On the other hand, if you never use template guides or plan on parking this baby in a router table, you'll have no problems. This would be a fine router for those purposes.

The other problem is another quality/design issue that can be remedied but is a moderate annoyance. On my machine, the release/locking lever for the plunge mechanism came loose on several occassions, making it impossible to plunge and lock the router at a desired depth. There is a small set screw in the lever mechanism that works loose and has to be constantly tightened and adjusted. This problem is not an isolated incident as it also has occured with two other cabinetmakers and their identical routers in my shop. In the end, having tired of constantly fiddling with our machines, the three of us adjusted the mechanisms as best we could, applied Lock-Tite to the set screws, and hoped we did it right because there would be no way to disassemble the levers once the Lock-Tite cured. Fortunately, the fix worked fine, and all three of us are happily using our machines without any problems. Again, not a deal-breaker and the problem was fixed, but this seems unnecessary for a $200 router.

The other router to consider in this price range is the DeWalt DW625 3 HP plunge router. Though it has more power than the PC 8529, it is the same size and weight. It's also variable speed and would be great in a router table. I've never been a huge DeWalt fan (many of their products seem overrated and overpriced), this seems to be an excellent machine. Several of the guys in my shop own them and use them for the dual purposes of plunge operations as well as major hogging through lots of material (the extra hp makes a big difference). Add it to your list of possibilities.

You want to know the cons, here they are. I replaced the 2 piece fence as soon as I got it out of the box and put on a 6" oak 1 piece fence. I don't like to waste time setting up a two piece fence when you can do a better job with one. You just have to cut out a slot big enough to handle your bits. The height adjustment knob should have been made bigger for easier bit changes. If you don't have a vacuum system, you'll have to remove the power switch every once in a while and clean out the sawdust. Just remove two screws, pop out the switch housing, and blow it out. Cudos to Delta for designing the switch for easy cleaning. Sawdust will collect quickly in the chute without a vacuum. It doesn't take much to clean it out, however it does get old pretty quick. The wrenches are a waste of time. Delta took a shortcut on this one. They should've made better quality wrenches that don't bend and open up. Overall, it is a solid tool that gets the job done. I milled Oak cabinet frames/doors from scratch and she never bogged down. I would buy it again based simply on performance. The pros outweigh the cons.

While this unit is not as heavy as a professional shaper, it is certainly better than a router table assembled from pieces. The 1/2 in collet is driven on its own outboard spindle, supported by two ball bearings. The motor is belted to the spindle in a step-up fashion to get the tool turning at 12,000 rpm. The whole assembly, along with the raising and lowering mechanism, is a complete unit, fully assembled, and simply bolted to the metal cabinet stand. It is well made and quite robust.

I had no problems putting the unit together and doing the few simple adjustment to get the spindle perpendicular to the table. I am using 1/2 inch shank router cutters rather than true spindle units, and find the motor delivers more than enough power to handle edge shaping and such basic operations. I have not tried the heavier shaping jobs that are needed to make raised panels, etc.

I purchased separately the extension table for the earlier 505 machine, since it was stated to work for the Sh100, but had to cut through it in the back for the dust collection vacuum cleaner exhaust system to connect.

I bought a B&D workmate for a support stand for the unit. This has worked well, without the need for additional clamping. Reproducibility in setting the router blade height is acceptable, as long as you follow the directions and raise the cutter to the desired level from the bottom UP.

I found the fence to be OK, considering the price of the unit. You have to make the fence adjustments "by hand" using a straight ruler or board to set the two segments to be parallel. It takes a little time to do this, but it's no big deal. It's not a good idea to be in a hurry setting up the fences and cutter height anyhow.

I am happy with my purchase. If I wanted a professional calibur shaper I would have gotten a Grissley or bigger Delta for more money. The SH100 is working nicely for me now doing heavier (and safer) routing than a hand or plunge router would do, and for that it is more than worth what I spent for it.

I was not at all pleased with the way FedEx delivered it. There was a big rip in the carton corner, and the side of the SH100 base cabinet for the unit had a big dent in it. I did not want to go through the hassle of returning it, since I had to cut up the box just to get the unit out to look at it. So I took a couple of hours and straighted the cabinet dent out, but it doesn't say much for FedEx in that they just dumped it in this condition on my door step. This is why I did not give the unit 5 stars.

The product was as discribed and I was very pleased with it. The delivery was faster then expected.

but it *can* be made useful...I bought my PC router and table kit new (including the floor stand that is not included here) and materials to make the table top and fence useful. I threw the aluminum top and the dippy "fence" away and salvaged the remaining pieces for reuse with a shop-made top and fence. TIP: Buy the PC 69x router combo kit (fixed & plunge) but build your own table and fence.

I've had this router work station for about 8 months now. I've probably only logged about an hour of run time on it and have encountered several problems. Shortly after I started to use it, the power switch fell out of the cover. I looked by this thinking that porter cable is known for good quality. The switch still won't stay in. After about the 3rd time of using it, it got stuck in one of the bases and I spent several hours trying to remove it. It's only done that once, but it was so frustrating to deal with at a time I needed to use it. The plunge base has moved on me a couple of times while running, like it doesn't stay locked into place. Most recently, It started to make some noise while running it. I began to notice small pieces of plastic falling out of the cover. I removed the cover and found that the 'Plastic' fan on the motor arbor had completely sheered all of it's fins off. I also noticed a piece of wood in with them. Obviously, a small sliver of wood had fallen in the motor(because there's no protection from this while in the table) and removed all of the cooling fins on the fan. Now, I need it again, and I must send off to be repaired. I know that industry is moving to a lighter and cheaper way to make things, but plastic in some things is just not durable and reliable. It may just be me having all of these problems, but I just simply haven't had much luck with this setup. The table is extremely shakey, it works, but I would rather use a home made one rather than this. The table is definitly not worth the money. I like the ergonimics of porter cable, but I'm honestly not completely sold yet on quality of their new products.

This is my fifth router. I bought it for the small and light jobs. Router is impressive. Table is rock solid. fence may need improvement, but acceptable, and I entend to "fine tune it". When you do the calculation, I got the table and the fence for [a low price] What a deal!
Thanks Amazon, Thanks Porter- Cable.

I have 5 doors to install. I did one and this template and bit are not going to make it all the way.
1) Flimsy tabs on the insert pieces. It's just a matter of time before they break.
2) The insert pieces don't sit flush in the template. They stick up 1/8". It makes your router base ride against the two inserts that stick up. At the two edges of the cut your 6" router base will "fall" off the insert pieces and cause a gouge in the wood. You need to buy a larger router base so this doesn't happen.
3) Poor instructions
4) Bit wears out quickly

I don't expect this type of product from Porter Cable. I am going to return it.

I found that a small, low-horsepower router or laminate trimmer works best with this plastic template. You have to be very, very deliberate in setting it up and you have to pay close attention to your router's cutting depth so as not to set the hinge too shallow or too deep but once you get it set up correctly, it works surprisingly well. Practice, practice, practice and if you only use it occasionally as I do, write concise notes and document your settings for future reference.

The instructions that come with it are awful and useless for the most part so try it out several times on the edges of a few scrap 2x4's. The setup for the door edge and for the jamb are completely different and it's easy to get confused and make a bad (expensive) cut.

Remember that it's just plastic and that you'd be wise to start the router up with the bit clear and untouched, inside the template and away from the door edge. Work slowly and keep the router base sitting flush on the template for even results.

The router bit alone makes this tool an excellent value.

I use this jig for door projects from time to time. It's easy to use but takes a little figuring out as the instructions aren't great.

The included bit is good for a couple doors. Get the carbide bit if you plan on doing several doors.

I have done a half dozen exterior doors and about two dozen interior doors. Worked well for all. Have not had a single hinge not line up.

Can't really complain for it's price. Sure beats freehanding it with a router or chiseling it out. It could use a little redesigning though.

I used to recommend DeWalt products to everyone who would listen to me because the ergonomics are so superior. Lately, though, the quality has gotten so bad, I have a hard time doing that.
My suggestion is to skip all the reviews by people who just pulled it out of the box, and read the reviews by people who have used it for a while.
I bought the DW618PK through Amazon several years ago. After about the 10th use, the plastic spindle lock button broke. I didn't care too much because it was a pain to use, so I started using two wrenches instead.
Then, everything went into storage for 2 years (past the warranty period). Later, after about the 20th use, the motor died. It turns out that the magnetic ring on the armature fell apart (apparently, a common problem), but the pieces took out the windings on the armature, as well. I called a DeWalt repair shop for an estimate. They want $20 to tell me what's wrong and then there will be an hourly rate plus parts to repair it. Also, they are backed up for weeks with work. It will be about a month before they can get to it. It may cost as much as a new DW618 (for about $170 from Amazon), so I'm trying to decide if I should buy another brand, instead.
If it wasn't for the quality problems, I still like the ergonomics. The handgrips are comfortable and the dust collection on the plunge base is great - as is the detachable cord, the quick-release latch for the motor, and the centering tool used when changing the subbase. When it runs, the motor is a good, strong motor, and I especially like the ability to easily switch between 1/4" and 1/2" bits. The spindle lock could have been better designed and it is much easier to lock the bit in using two wrenches, instead. A real spindle lock would have been nice.
If ergonomics are important to you, then buy this one and cross your fingers. If you want reliability, look elsewhere.

Had this router for 3 years...used it on avg 3-4 days/week for moderate tasks. I thought overall it was a great tool until first, a bearing went bad, then about 6 months later the fan attached to the motor armature and the piece securing the collet to the body broke into pieces during a slight chamfer cut in clear, soft REDWOOD! It's going to be $100+ to fix it, and I, like another reviewer above, didn't know whether to have it repaired or buy a different tool. However, after reading the other negative reviews and reports of motor failure, I am convinced that this tool doesn't belong in a professional woodshop.

I purchased the 618PK (fixed & plunge base kit) two years ago. I researched all the comparable 2.25 hp models (porter cable, bosch, etc), and decided this was the best. I've used it a lot over the last two years, both free-hand and table mounted. I've had no complaints whatsoever...until two weekends ago. I had it in the table using a 3/8" round-over bit on 3/4" pine, and was using a middle speed RPM. After a few passes, the RPMs spiked up to an EXTREMELY high level. I shut the thing off and checked it out. I'm not sure what happened, or why, but now the thing only spins on a dangerously high RPM; variable speed control does not work anymore. The RPMs it does spin at is higher than the highest speed setting, so something is obviously wrong with it. I can't use it, because it is spinning too fast. My local DeWalt service center said they have a standard router repair fee; $102, regardless of what is wrong. I think that is very steep, considering it is probably just the brake/speed control that broke and not the actual motor itself. So now I have to decide whether I want to pay $102 to get it fixed, or buy a whole new router (with fixed base; DeWalt said I can't just buy the motor assembly) for $170...

But up until my speed adjustment broke, I loved this tool. Here are my thoughts:

POSITIVES:

- Without question the best ergonomics of any router out there. Handle base/width is wide and comfortable. On/off switch and speed control located at top of router and function smoothly.
- Plenty of power. I've used a large multi-profile bit on oak, and the motor had no problems.
- Comes with a wide opening base, and small opening base to fit standard guide templates (my new Porter Cable router doesn't have the template-sized base)
- 1/2" and 1/4" collets are included; very convenient.
- the power cord detaches from the motor assembly. This makes it much easier to mount/dismount the unit from my router table insert plate.

NEGATIVES:

- The micro-depth adjustment ring works well, but when clamping the base closed on the motor, it oftens knocks off the depth a little but, thus requiring a depth readjustment.
- I do like the sturdy feeling toggle switch that is used for on/off. However, it would be nice if they put the on/off within thumbs reach of one of the handles.
- My freakin' speed adjustment problem...

All in all, I think this is a great router. I am generally a DeWalt loyalist and I think most of their products are top notch (except I think the blades they give with most of their saw products are absolute garbage: DW744S table saw and 12" dual bevel compound miter saw; definitely upgrade to Forrest WWII and 12" Chopmaster). I'm not sure what to do about my busted router, but I replaced it with the Porter Cable 894 (which I haven't used yet). Porter Cable is arguably the best name in routers, but I originally opted for the DeWalt due to my satisfaction in all of their other products I have. The second time around, I had to say no to DeWalt and go with the Porter Cable.

I received this as a gift for what I thought would be an "upgrade" from an old Craftsman dovetail jig. The Craftsman saw some heavy use. If not for the plastic construction, it would probably be still in use.
I have also had several opportunities to use the Porter Cable 12" dovetail jig with excellent results.
I have over 25 years experience as a woodworker, building custom cabinets, furniture and other specialty items.
The first time I attempted to work with this Dovetail jig, to add to our bedroom set of Honduran Mahogany, I was livid. The instruction manual is the most useless piece of misinformation I have ever laid my eyes on.
Set your router bit 7/8" below the base as they recommend, and see what happens. One look at the results and it is obvious that this will not produce a workable dovetail.

If you have countless hours to spend trying to figure out how to make this dovetail jig work, go for it... If you want a dovetail jig that will work for YOU - look somewhere else!

I recieved this jig for xmas last year, but just unpacked it this month. Usually cut my dovetails by hand as most of my jewelry box's are 4" or less in depth. With the Lee Valley/Veritas dovetail guide and dovetail saddle, layout and cutting on smaller pieces is pretty quick and accurate. I have a xmas project for 12 jewelry box's this year, for granddaughters, and decided they would all be basically the same design, but using differant woods for each.Also they will be 7" deep. Figured I could set the jig up and then cut all the dovetails for the 12 box's in one session.
The jig, at first, does not seem overly robust. Haven't seen or used any others so my impression may be wrong on this. The manual is pretty dismal, took a couple hours of trial and error to get everything locked in the way I wanted. I ended up making 6 "shop box's" before I was happy with the results. The clamping system does an adequate job of holding the wood in the jig. Seems flimsy but does do the job. I agree with the previous reviewer who said to use a straight bit to hog out first then use the dovetail bit to finish. This makes for a nicer finish on the joints, leaving just a little cleanup. Once I got the jig set it did a pretty good job, it repeated nicely and I had no problems with any of the pieces or parts. Counting setup and cutting time it took about 6 hrs to do all 12 box's. I figure that was 4 hrs actually cutting on the jewelry box's. It probably would have taken me 6hrs to cut and fit them by hand. So..two hours of actual labor saved. The joints fit well and look nice, so I guess I am happy with the results. I don't think I would have bought a dovetail jig for myself, or if I had it would have been a much larger one. Would be nice to use one on the hope chest's I seem to making more of. They tend to be 18"-20" deep and cutting the dovetails by hand takes up a lot of time.
That being said, I do miss some of the satisfaction I get out of cutting them by hand. I will keep this jig and use it when I have "production" work to do, but for individually sized box's, I can cut the dovetails by hand in the time it would take to set this jig up.
For the price I think this jig will be hard to beat, and would recommend it as a first jig, or one for occasional use.

I just recently purchased the Jet Dovetail jig, and I have to say I had absolutely no problems with it. I didn't have to make any adjustments besides the fence to get a perfect dovetail the first time used. For the weekend woodworker this jig is definately worth it, considering the low price. The equation in the instruction booklet made no sense, just trial and error on some scrap pieces of wood to set the fence. I gave this jig 5 stars because of the low price and beautiful dovetails this jig produced for me the first time out of the box.