Routers Reviews

I bought one of the packages recently and love the
mobil base. I have the same one on my table saw and
life is much simpler with them. The router spindal is
another story. It is of great quality but it has a
3/4 shaft. Now my Delta heavy-duty shaper model 43-379
has a 3/4 and 1/2 spindal with a 1/2 shafts. Since the
shaft size is not given in the promotional reveiws I
thought it should be. Great deal if it fits.

I am very please with this accessory package. I have a small shop and the mobility offered by the base allows me to easily move the Shaper where needed and then back to the storgae area. I have found the base to very strong and well constructed. I have used the Shaper many times and the base shows no wear and tear. I have used a generic mobile base and find the one in this package far superior.

I am very pleased with the spindle accessory as well. I am able to use all of my router bits and door making kits without having to buy any shaper cutters. I may break down and get a set later though. The fit and finish of the spidle is great. It, along with my shaper, have given me results superior to work I have done in the past.

The router bit set was just what I needed to use with my Dremel.

I use these router bits and the two styles of routers for building minuature wild west buildings and doll house furniture
With these bits I can make very percise cuts and with the finished product I've sold them for as much as 250-300 dollars each. My only regret is that dremel would make some other types of router bits just like the big boys.

Purchasing this 1/4" collet will increase the usability of your Fein RT-1800 router. Seems like they should include it with the purchase of the router. Buying the 1/4" collet, is almost a neccessity because of the popularity of the 1/4" bits. In addition to that, you may consider the 8mm collet as well, which is not so common.
An interesting note is that the international standard for the 1/4" equivalent is 8mm, which is a 56% larger shaft, but still is small enough to fit into the smaller template sizes. So you get a lot more strength, which means less vibration. Is it possible that the disdain for the 1/4" standard, drove this W. German manufacturer into offering the 1/4" collet as an option? The 8mm collet is available from Fein Power Tools in Pittsburgh PA> Part number 0000433085, or you can check with Amazon.com in the Tool Crib at 1-800-635-5140.
I first learned of the 8mm standard when I bought the Leigh Dovetail Jig. Leigh manufacturing offers a 15 piece bit set with 1/2" and 8mm bits, in addition to the other set with 1/2" and 1/4" bits. They find superior results with the 8mm's, so they make special mention of offering them. I bought the 8s, and they are substantially larger. I plan on acquiring more 8mm bit sets in the future, in addition to the 1/4"s that I now have.
This 1/4" collet is substantially made, just like the rest of the Fein line. The RT-1800 is unique in that it has linear bearings instead of ball bearings. Consquently, Fine Woodworking magazine, in a follow up article to their router run off, stated that the new Fein Rt-1800, had such a little bit of run out, that it was off the chart next to every other router they tested. The long shaft-surface area of a linear bearing, holds the shaft in line a lot greater than the microscopic surface of the edge of a ball bearing. Some resort to dual ball bearings to improve on that. Back to the collet.
It doesn't come with the locking nut. Switching the nut into the collet is easy. It snaps in and out of the nut rather easily. The Fein collets really hold onto the bits very well. It is like the rest of the Fein line, it costs more, but you get more. The engineering is second to none.

If you own Fein router, you've seen its 1/2" collet. Fein's 1/4" collet is its twin sister with a little bit smaller hole. It's very deep (30 mm, approx. 1-1/4"), 8-prong, precise machined self-ejecting collet. All my small 1/4" shank bits fit the collet perfectly and get out easily. Collet is perfectly centered (I couldn't measure the runout with 0.02mm=0.001" calipers, it's less than that), it holds the bit very tight, so there is no vibration, slippage, or anything else that can go wrong.

Without hesitation I can say that Fein collets are way better than dozens of other collets I've seen. No question about it.

The only complain that I have is the absence of additional collet nut -- I wish it supplied as an collet/nut assembly: despite it's relatively easy to remove collet from the nut (thin 1/2" goes out easily, thick 1/4" with some effort, both go in easily), I don't like the the process -- the nut has a groove with a sharp edge used to keep the collet in, and moving collets in and out on regular basis will ruin the nut (or collet) sooner or later. Besides that, the need to bend collet prongs slightly in order to release it from the nut does not increase collet life as well. Finally, it takes time. When I get bored, I will buy additional nut for 1/4" collet.

I just used it to cut some mortises in oak. It's sharp and straight. I haven't used it long enough to know how it will hold it's edge. It did a really good job on the mortises. I have been quite pleased with my Freud router bits.

i expect quality when i get freud router bits and this one did not let me down. cuts great and stays sharp a long time. if you want quality get this bit.

I used this bit in a 2.25hp router (and Porter-Cable guide bushing) to make some dovetails with a jig. Cuts in quartersawn white oak were super smooth, with hardly any tear-out. I also used this bit in a router table setup, again with a 2.25hp router, and the cuts were just as impressive.

Overall this is a very high quality bit at a very good price. I highly recommend it!

What can I say?? Fantastic bit, extremely sharp, cut through red quartersawn oak with no chip out at the ends - One of the nicest bits I've used.

I have long been a fan of Freud bits and blades and this cove bit lives up to my expectations of quality. Recently I was in need of a large cove bit to make some custom trim for a project and picked this bit up for 30 bucks locally. It made many smooth, burn free cuts in some of the hardest yellow birch wood I have ever worked. My only hesitation in buying the bit was that it is a 1/4" shank instead of 1/2", but the cuts were so clean that I am glad I bought this bit anyway. Highly recommended!

OK it's a router bit. All I can say is that it cuts great and I have never had any trouble with the Frued bits. I run a custom furniture shop and all the tools get a workout. So far all the Frued router bits have held an edge well and I would recomend them to anyone. It just isn't worth killing a $10,000 custom bed for the $15 difference in price between the cheap and quality. I am sure that everyone feels the same about thier work... Or, they should.

Un producto de excelente calidad que no se ve en Costa Rica y a un buen precio

Bueno creo que el titulo lo dice todo, son cuchillas de excelente calidad y a un muy buen precio.

De hecho ya estoy comprando otras mas de la misma marca

Whether you are making one or twenty cabinet doors, these bits from Freud will give you the results you are looking for. Red and white oak is no match for the sharpness of these bits. My one and a half horsepower shaper is enough power to turn the raised panel bit through oak with minimal drag. More power is better but less will do. The design of the bits prevents you from taking too much bite causing kickback and dangerous flying objects. The included instruction booklet provides step-by-step detailed instructions on constructing raised panel doors. I found this very helpful. The finished edges require no sanding and the fit, if time is taken for proper set up, is unmatched by competitors sets. I am currently replacing my entire bit collection with Freud products. Two words "they work".

This cabinet door set does an outstanding job of producing a smooth finish surface. Setups are easily accomplished and the finished styles and rails match perfectly. The panel bit produces a profile that requires no finish sanding.

This router bit worked perfectly. The resulting edge required very little sanding and I received the result that I expected.

This bit was used for a table top and it produces very clean shoulders even on end grain. The end grain had to be sanded at the top of the shoulder to remove the fuzz, but the cut was exceptional. I slowed down the router to about 14,000 rpm. I felt that becasue of the size, it couldn't hurt. I have a lot of Freud router bit and saw blades and I keep going back to them. All of the router bits have been worth the money. They probuce clean cuts in all woods.

So I just bought a house in NE DC that I am renovating. Lots of work. Every last thing in the place is a disaster that needs attention. So I am focusing on the building envelope, a part of which are the windows. My sashes are so entirely screwed that I originally assumed that I would have to eventualy buy all new windows. Problem. All of the windows are non standard sizes. Another problem, I don't have the money to buy all new windows. So while trying to repair a window I broke a pane and replaced the sash with an piece of an old door. It looks great from the street. About one step above plywood on the scale of ghetto to fabulous (do not confuse with the "ghetto fabulous" scale, it measures something completley different). So in my research on how to build a sash, I came across some instructions, and router bit sets. I got the 13 piece Freud set a few weeks ago, so came back to check out if Amazon had a sash set by freud. Needles to say I found the set, and read the review that R. Feeser wrote. After reading that review, I got so excited about building my own windows I just about wet myself. That was yesterday. Today I am still freaking excited. If I wasn't so cheap, and didn't allways use the supersaver shipping, I'd be rushing home to start pumping out window sashes. So thank you R. Feeser! Your review was so freaking awesome I wan't to wet my pants all over again!!!

This Freud 99-051 and 050 work as a set to give you complete sash making capabilities. My woodworking buying of equipment went into overdrive when I went into my local home center and saw how expensive it would be to replace the windows in my house. This Freud bit combination is making my intentions realizable. I made my first window sash and am ecstatic over how professional it looks. Each sash is the standard 1 3/8" thick, and has true divided light (French door style sash bars, and mullions) All done by using these two bits.
I must admit the instructions that come with the Freud bits leaves you a little dizzy. They eliminated all hand holding, and went into mechanical-arithmetic formulas for getting the job done. Then I discovered the CMT USA bit manufacturing instructions that are available at the CMTUSA.com web site under "How To" It is a lot more intuitive, whereas they give you step by step instructions. The thing about the CMT set is they are based on 5/8" of an inch spacing on one side, and 1/2" on the other. That makes for a lot of adjustment in doing the different stages. This Freud bit set, which is similar to the CMT in every way, except one. They are 9/16" on both sides, with 1/4" tongue area in the center.
You could make a casement sash with these bits, and simply build a frame to mount it in, and include the necessary configuring to allow for handles and opening mechanisms. That and a little weather-strip and you're set. This bit set also makes twin sashes for your standard double hungs. I bought a book here at Amazon called Windows and Skylights, and it went into a lot about making different style windows. Not about how to buy them, but about how to build them. Highly recommended book, listing suppliers of hardware, and the ins and outs of insulation properties of different styles. In that book the author states that using vinyl jamb liners with built in springs are preferred, and will save you a lot of time.
What I am actually going to do, is buy Honduras Mahogany, and make beautiful windows. I am looking for a good supplier of high quality solid polished brass for the locks and hardware. I could go on for hours, but this is supposed to be a review of the Freud bits, and it is.
These bits are not cheap, but if you plan on building lots of windows, and may possibly need to build more than one set, their strong carbide, and balanced, no vibration cut, will give you the quality you are looking for. It is nice to not have to sand the edges at all, or at least not very much, when they are as highly figured as these edges are.
The local largest window showroom has suggested that I carry a sample of the Mahogany creations in their showroom. I'm honored, and plan on doing that once I am confident in my own houses creations. Once you see what the truth is about the lack of true insulation properties of the common vinyl window, you will all the more want solid wood windows. Combining the insulating properties of solid wood, with the natural weather resistance of mahogany, and you have a combination that is hard to beat. I am leaning toward the single glass, and then doubling that on the inside with a removable storm panel, and tripling it with an exterior storm window. (That is a popular Pella design)
What is significantly different is with typical "insulated glass" windows, you have a vinyl shell, which conducts cold instead of insulating, and then passes that cold through the aluminum wedge that is sealed between the glass, which also transmits cold readily, on through to the inner glass, which is cold on the outer areas, and only warm on the inside center. Consequently the major window testing association, using a rating system that measures both the center of the glass on the inside, and the outside edges, and averages them. With your own wood windows, you eliminate that. In addition to Mahogany's natural wear properties (Decks are built from it without any finish put on it whatsoever) You have to look into Sikkens line of semi clear finishes. I coated my Cedar Addition with it five years ago and it looks as new right now as it did when I first applied it. It is expensive, but worth every dime.
Anyhow, get the Freud bit set, turn out your first sash, and get excited about the possibilities.