Bosch Reviews

I have purchased every grit of Mirka sanding disks from Amazon, and I find them to be good quality. The price per disc works out to be a great value if you purchase them in packs of 50.

I used these disks on my Bosch random-orbit sander. The hook-and-loop backing is strong and holds on through rough sanding. The aluminum oxide sanding material lasts for a good amount of time. I've used them on a variety of wood surfaces, and I have used them to remove paint, and they last long enough to take down a lot of material. I have bought other brands of sanding discs that do last longer, but the Mirka discs definitely hold up well.

The discs are packaged in a sturdy box with a cover, which makes it easy to dispense them as needed. Also, having them stored in a box keeps them clean, which helps the hook-and-loop function. This actually helps out a lot in the shop. Other brands come wrapped in plastic, and you have to find a container for them, or let them sit on a shelf and get full of sawdust. I appreciate this extra touch.

The paper stock is somewhat thin, but this does not really affect their use. Since they are stored in a box, they stay flat. Other brands, which are stored in bags, get curled up on the edges.

Bottom line: these are good quality sanding discs that last for a good amount of time, are a good value for the money, and are packaged in a convenient way.

I HAVE PURCHASED MOST OF ALL YHE MIRKA H&L 5'' 8 HOLE SANDPAPER
AND FIND IT TO BE WORTH EVERY BIT OF YOUR MONEY SPENT.I AM AMAZED
AT THE QUALITY OF THIS PRODUCT.I LIKE THE PACKAGING ON THIS
PRODUCT .THE DURABILITY AND TO WITH STAND PUSNISMENT IS #1

This is excellent stuff for those *really* tough jobs where you'd start thinking about getting a planer or similar "big" guns. Used this on my Makita orbital sander (which it fits just fine, in spite of the missing listing in the specs), and it stands up to punishment. Worked over a couple of 6x6 pressure treated beams and could get a reasonably nice finish pretty fast. These disks last surprisingly long, considering the work they perform. Also tried to use this to sand down a rusty old steel bulkhead coated with enamel, but the 60 grit doesn't cut it - you'll still need a steel brush head and lots of elbow grease for that kind of work.

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The Bosch 11248EVS is a rotary hammer drill using a spline drive for the drill bits. The capacity of this drill is 1-9/16" solid and 4" for the core drills. You also have capability to use other attachments such as a ground rod driver, chisels, etc. in the "hammer mode" (more on this later).

The house I moved into a few years ago was a basket case. It seemed that everything needed to be repaired or replaced. The time was right for me to find a rotary hammer drill.

There are different type of drives. There are: SDS, SDS-MAX and spline drives. As I understand it, SDS is for smaller diameter holes. SDS-MAX was designed for larger holes. It seems that spline drives seem to fall in between SDS and SDS-MAX drills. Any supplier of drills can supply you with drills and other accessories for your drill.

There is some debate if spline drives or SDS-MAX last longer. Some contractors claim the spline drive "teeth" shear off rendering the bit useless. So far I have not found any claim to be reliable and fault is with the user. The service centers find it is the abuse of the tool and contractors or whoever buying poor quality bits. I have used many spline drive bits all without fail.

This Bosch 11248EVS is a spline drive tool that has two operations. The first one being the rotary hammer drill. This is where a drill is rotated, much like any other drill, and then is struck with a "hammer" to pulverize the concrete or stone that you are drilling. During this operation the drill is struck thousands of times per minute with a force of about 7 foot pounds of energy. This means that each hit is the same as you raising a 7 pound hammer one foot and dropping it. May not seem like much, but remember that this is happening THOUSANDS of times per minute. In the case of the 11248EVS it is rated at 1700-3300 blows per minute and the bits rotates at 170-340 RPM.

If you use the tool in the hammer only mode you get a 20% boost in the hammering energy. To go from one mode to another you rotate a selector switch. In the hammer only mode you also can adjust the rotation of the tool in 30 degree increments. This is handy if you are using a spade bit and need to turn the bit for a better operating position.

The drill has a "soft start" feature in which the drill starts slowly and then comes up to full speed. This helps to keep the bit from walking. The speed can also be adjusted by rotating a small dial on the drill body for the maximum drill operating speed or by using the trigger. The more you squeeze the trigger the faster the drill will go. With some practice you can easily vary the speed. There is a "lock on" mode to keep the tool on all the time, but this feature works in the hammer only mode.

"Auto-Max" is a feature in which the drill is automatically set to the highest speed when the drill has been unplugged and then plugged in. I wasn't too sure if I liked or disliked this feature so I am somewhat neutral on it.

Drills are held in place by a very easy to use chuck. Pulling the locking collar of the chuck towards you unlocks the chuck. You insert the bit fully into the chuck and then release the collar. Pull on the bit and it is now locked into place. If you see red on the collar you have not installed the bit correctly. Take it out and try again. A few minuets fiddling with this and you'll be a pro. Bosch recommends using "bit grease" on the ends of the bits before putting it into the drill. You can buy this grease from Bosch or any of their service centers. You will greatly extend the life of the tool by doing this AND making sure the bits is clean going into the chuck. Wipe all and grime and grit off the spline teeth, inspect for any deformed or missing spline teeth, place a small amount of grease on the end and insert into the drill.

The 11248EVS uses 11 amps of current and has a 12 foot three prong cord. The Bosch 11248EVS is NOT a double insulated tool and it requires a GROUNDED circuit. This is NOT the time to be sharing the circuit with everybody else or you'll be making a trip to reset the circuit breaker. And... don't get cheap on the extension cord. Use a heavy duty cord rated for the drill. Use that heavy duty 14 gage or even a 12 gage cord for minimum voltage drop.

Hearing and eye protection is a must with any tool of this sort. You are drilling hard and very unforgiving materials with tools that are made of hardened and tempered tool steel and/or carbide tipped. The hammering action creates noise, vibration and dust! A dust mask is also recommended as the dust can cause health problems down the road.. There is a nice feature on the drill and that's the dampening handle. It is a spring loaded handle to help cut down on the vibration. Seems to work pretty well. I have used many other tools without and it's fatiguing.

The side handle must always be used as there is considerable torque produced. The clutch helps prevent the drill from getting away from you and spinning around without you holding it. Hopefully you'll have the presence of mind to let go of the trigger before 50 feet of power cord is wrapped around the drill! The handle can be positioned at just about any angle you desire.

A power indicator shows when the tool is plugged in and power is present. The other light is the service soon light. Once illuminated you have 8 hours of operation left and then the tools stops and will not work until taken to a service center. As far as maintenance is concerned, there really is not much to do. Keeping the case free of grime and the air vents clear of dust is about the only thing that one needs to do. The other maintenance is best left for the service pros, i.e. brush and bearing replacement and lubrication.

Actual use. When I got it I started out by drilling about seventy five 3/4" holes into 4 inch concrete. The speed is on par with other brands and may be a touch faster. The next test was driving ground rods. That was scary. Scary meaning how fast it did it. The first ground rod ran into hard pan soil and this took a while to get through. Driving it in with a sledge hammer bent the rod and made the rod useless so... that's when I tried the hammer drill method. To drive ground rods you'll need a ground rod driver and if you drive a lot ground rods you'll want this accessory in your tool kit! The hammer drill got it into the hard pan with much less effort than with the sledgehammer and it did not bend the ground rod into a pretzel. The second ground rod went into the ground like butter. I am totally sold. A 3-3/4" core bit was purchased to install a drain and this was done without too much fuss.

Hammer drills are about the most expensive tools around the remodeling or construction site. I've worked with many contractors and they say the Bosch is the tool that lasts. It is more money but in the long run they are well worth the extra cost.

The drill is about 15 pounds and comes with a fitted plastic case that has compartments for the drill, drill bits, and small accessories.

Bosch is the best in terms of build quality and overall stability. I own several Bosch products, they are very impressive, including this combination hammer. I'm sure it will last a long time and can be counted on for performance everytime time it is needed. Very stable.

Very durable, powerful, runs smoothly, one heck of a workhorse. I must say I'm so impressed.
Do yourself a favor, invest in this hammer, you will be glad you did! It is designed and built to last. The BEST of the BEST!

Robert Bosch pretty much has the market cornered with worm drive saws, rotary hammers and jigsaws. I bought the top handle version about 5 years ago and decided to buy the barrel grip because of the control aspect. I'm glad I did. This is by far the best jigsaw money can buy. As usual, Norm got it right. He uses all P.C. except for his plate jointer and his Bosch barrel grip jigsaw. (Bet that chaps P.C.'s a_ _). Buy this saw. You won't regret it.

I purchased this tool hoping that the barrel grip design would give me much better control than the top handle Freud I have been using. I reasoned that better control would lead to better results.

My choice to go with the Bosch was based on the outstanding reviews this saw has received. After using this saw on my last 3 projects, I am just delighted with it. The barrel grip is just wonderful to work with. The quality of my work has been greatly improved because of the great control offerred by the barrel grip design. I don't believe I will ever go back to a top handle.

I am a big fan of Bosch's tool-less blade changing mechanism. Not only is it a unique design, it is quite functional, quick and easy to use. Two thumbs up for that!

The saw dininitely has all of the power I need. I have easily cut through 1" thick hard maple. It is very smooth and has little vibration. When used in conjunction with Bosch blades, you will be able to produce some nice, clean cuts.

In conclusion, the Bosch 1584AVS barrel grip jigsaw is solid, uniquely engineered, powerful, smooth and easy to control. I am gladly rating it 5 stars and enthusiastically giving it my endorsement. I am 100% happy with this purchase.

This jigsaw has no comparison. You can make a smooth cut in 1\4 inch plywood, change blades in about 15 seconds, and then easily cut though a 2x4. I lost my first saw, so I am buying another one. I like every Bosch tool I have bought.

I recently purchased the bosch 1942 heat gun. I am very pleased with my purchase. I like the fact that it doen't get hot enough to burn the wood, Although they all have the potential too. The last gun I had would get very hot. Hot enough I would burn the wood.You can really tell the difference in the areas I stripped with the old heat gun and the new one. I would recommend this
heat gun to anyone interested in purchasing such a product.

I've used this heat gun for many different projects while working on my old house and I am amazed that it still works as consistently as the day I bought it. As with all of my tools, I follow the instructions included - Bosch reccomends you need to let it cool down every once and a while - not use it for extended periods on high. In addition, instead of just turning it *off*, you have to turn it to the no-heat setting, open the side vents full, and let it run til the barrell is no longer warm to the touch. Perhaps that's why my gun has lasted so long? Probably so, because Bosch designed it to be used that way. I also agree with the other reviewer that this is the heat gun to buy. Incidently, I own or have owned about ten Bosch power tools and their accessories from saws and blades to routers and bits, so perhaps I'm biased. However, I also have always noted that Bosch tools seem to rate high in contractor (FHB) and contruction (JLC) magazine reviews. Oh yes - don't forget to buy and use a *respirator* (not a dopey dust mask) when using this tool.

I really like this heat gun. It is commercial quality. It will last for years, can be rebuilt ( if necessary ), the base is very convenient ( this does not cool quite as fast as the variable heat range model ), and always comes up to the same temperature. I think if I were to buy another the variable heat range model, just because there are times when this model is too hot for the project at hand, and varying the distance between the gun and the work is not enough. That is my only complaint w/ this tool, but it is not the tool's fault. If you intend to use this gun for the same project and you don't need to vary the range, this is the heat gun to buy !

I agree with the last reviewer from Centreville - this is one heck of a bargain, and let's face it, this grade of tool is pricey enough for the home handyman. Like a lot of people I did my research on cordless 14.4V drills and decided that any of the recent ones - Bosch, Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee etc. would have been OK for what I wanted - a deck building tool. At one local store I was advised to get a Makita 12V impact driver for about $220, but then the additional chuck for drilling would have put the price over what I wanted to pay. I'm glad I resisted and got a drill / driver. Anyway, more research on this particular out-of-production-combination (the 3660CK) reveals that the drill has been replaced by the 2 new tough series (Brute and Compact). If one does the detailed comparison, the 3660K drill in this set has almost identical specs to the new Brute tough - except for some metal casing - which alone is about $190. The newer drills don't add any useful features to what the 3660K has. The saw is still being sold as a combo with the new Compact tough 14.4V drill and retails also for $190. With the Amazon discount I paid $195 for both - with free shipping - which can't be beat I think.

As far as performance etc., I find the 5.3 lb drill to be the heavy end of what is comfortable for me as a handyman, but it is very well balanced. One thing that surprised me was that the variable speed trigger gives you a lot of control over slow drilling - you don't have to run it with a lot of torque if you don't want (the clutch setting notwithstanding). The saw was an added bonus, but already I have been impressed with how smooth and easy it is to use.

In short, this deal won't last forever, and there's little reason to prefer the two newer Bosch models that don't come with the saw (unless you plan on frequently dropping them from the roof). Like the other reviewer, I find the case is too big for everyday use, and I suppose I'll now get the flashlight as well for $20. Would I buy this again - you bet!

I needed to replace my 8 or so year old Bosch 12v drill, and naturally considered Bosch again due to the fantastic experience I had with the 12v. I considered DeWalt and Makita, which I'm sure would have been good, but ultimately went with this Bosch kit for the amazing price. Just the saw alone is $180, the new Compact Tough 14.4v drill is about $140, so for $200 ($220 minus $20 rebate) this kit was a steal!! The drill isn't much heavier than my 12v, and it is significantly more powerful, I from 250 to 425 inlb of torque. I drilled a 1/2" speed bore longways (the 5-1/2" way) through a 2x6 on high speed setting and it flew through, probably just as fast as my 6 amp DeWalt electric. I then cut the 2x6 with the fantastic 14.4v saw, and it went through just as easily as my 12 amp Skil electric. Both the drill and the saw have a fantastic feel to them, they fit my hands well and feel top-notch quality. I can't get over the saw, everything about it says quality - including the very nice flip-up exhaust port for your shop vac.

The good? Price, performance, feel, quality, reliability if its even close to my previous 12v. Which still works fine, by the way, but one of the batteries is bad.

Bad? The case is too big. It is designed to hold drill, saw, charger, rip fence, drill handle, owners manual, and cordless light (guess I will have to get one of those now.) I wish it had a separate case for the drill and saw, since I rarely need to carry the saw anywhere.

This set is one HEavy-Duty drill and saw. Not for a weak person to use. Gets the job done without a hassle. I love the carbide tipped blade.

These blades cut cleanly and retain their sharpness for quite a while. Although I have blades for finer cuts, I have found they're unnecessary since these work so well and I don't want to take the time to change. Bosch blades plus Bosch jigsaw makes a killer combination. Word of caution: no blade is invincable. I've tried to go too long on a worn blade and have snapped the blade on 2 occasions. Guess I just got spoiled by their durability.

This blade is just plain AWESOME!

It cuts like butter... Extremely FINE cuts... Easy to control...

In my opinion, this is the BEST jig saw blade in the World, and will continue to be for years to come!

It's hard to find the words to fully describe it... It's wonderful!

The swiss make great knives and jig saw blades! :-) These Bosch blades are swiss made. It is stamped on the side. The instructions tell you to wear gloves when changing blades. I didn't listen, and my finger glanced against the edge, and it created a shaving of my skin. Do I wear gloves when I change bits? No, but I am very careful to grab just the back of the blade.
Blades this sharp make a very clean cut, and will fly through the material. I cut an eight foot piece of MDF with one of these, using a straight waste edge of a sheet of plywood as a guide. It came out so well it looked like a factory cut edge.
Combining these blades with the Bosch jig saw, gives you the best combination in the industry. Highly recommended.

Improved over the Mag 77- more power (15 amps vs 13 of the Mag 77, the redesigned blade guard is less likely to hang up on bevel cuts, and the shoe is far less likely to flex than that of the Mag 77. The Direct Connect works great; plug your extension cord directly into the saw. The built in rafter hook is a slick idea. Saw looked new ............ no way to tell it was a recon other than a sticker and the box it came in. Great saw at an excellent price.

So far, good performance, comfortable weight, good power, can't tell it has been reconditioned. Sky hook is wonderful feature.

I just received this saw from Amazon today after shopping for quite some time. My original pick was the Skil Mag worm drive saw but I like the features of this one better. The direct connect is a great idea. The tool hook they refer to in the specs doesn't show up in the pictures (it's NOT the hook you see below the handle, that's to hook the cord onto.) The tool hook is a folding piece of round bar, very heavy duty & looks like it's sized to hook on 2x framing material. The picture shows a blade with it but doesn't specifically mention it but it does come with a 24T diamond arbor Bosch blade. My unit came looking brand-new except for a couple of small nicks in the paint, I'm verry happy with the condition. [...] Also in regards to the Skil brand which is owned by the same company as Bosch, it mentions releif bellows & an oil level indicator. This saw does require oil for the gear box but it has a plug you must remove to check the level.
Overall I am very excited to use this saw, I have built a few decks over the years in addition to home projects & can't wait to see how it performs, I'm sure I won't be disappointed. One other note: I own a Bosch jig-saw & it's also the finest one I've ever seen.

You would be better served if you did your shopping on eBay. I've found this same item on eBay for half the price and "free Shipping" I just purchased one hundred discs for $14.00 and no shipping charges.

First of all I have to say that the reason why I happen to be writing this review is because I was on Amazon ordering another box of these sanding discs! There is no higher praise in my book than a return customer!

Now for the review: I have to agree with the other positive reviews and say that I have long been a fan of these Mirka sanding disks. I am a home woodworker whose projects range from DIY stuff around the house, to refinishing, to building fine furniture projects. I have been using these discs for years (in every grit from 80 to 220) and could not be more pleased with the smooth surfaces they produce with my rather inexpensive sander.

I completely agree with the assessment that although these are not the absolute best hook and loop discs on the market, they have performed every task I have asked of them. Overall, I would give this product an A- for quality/performance, and an A+ for value.

When I first bought my Bosch 3727DVS, I bought a box of the popular grades; 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, and 320. The 100, 120, and 150 are the most frequently used.To tell you the truth, I rarely use the 320. I just went through over 50 boards of 80+ inch cedar, in three grades, and I only used about 10 sheets all combined. That is about 3 for each grade. The advantage to quality paper, is that you can get in a groove with some consistency. Instead of having cheaper paper that gives you the new disc agressiveness, then quickly to the used paper smoothness, which may be a grade finer, and miss the deeper lines from the coarser grade of paper in the previous step. Additionally the backing paper is stiff enough to do the job. That way you don't wind up with a buggered edge on your sander. The 6 or 8 hole paper is nice for the dust free environment. I simply attach a 2 1/2" vac hose to the dust port on my Bosch, which is way smaller than that, so a lot of air escapes. The vacuum draw that leaks around the inlet, sucks up that last 1% of the dust coming off the paper. It is still recommended to wear a mask because the shop vacs only capture to a micron or so. So technically you have a vac system that is actually a mini-part of a micron, invisible dust manufacturing plant. Over time, even that is a consideration. A good respirator, not a paper mask is advisable. A fresh air system is even better.
I had a body shop for 20 years, and after using the cheaper paper on the random orbit sanders, and winding up with a floor full of used paper, I can attest to the savings of using quality, aluminum oxide paper. It is actually cheaper, in addition to doing a better job. Highly recommended.

When I first bought my Bosch 3727DVS, I bought a box of the popular grades; 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, and 320. The 100, 120, and 150 are the most frequently used.To tell you the truth, I rarely use the 320. I just went through over 50 boards of 80+ inch cedar, in three grades, and I only used about 10 sheets all combined. That is about 3 for each grade. The advantage to quality paper, is that you can get in a groove with some consistency. Instead of having cheaper paper that gives you the new disc agressiveness, then quickly to the used paper smoothness, which may be a grade finer, and miss the deeper lines from the coarser grade of paper in the previous step. Additionally the backing paper is stiff enough to do the job. That way you don't wind up with a buggered edge on your sander. The 6 hole paper is nice for the dust free environment. I simply attach a 2 1/2" vac hose to the dust port on my Bosch, which is way smaller than that, so a lot of air escapes. The vacuum draw that leaks around the inlet, sucks up that last 1% of the dust coming off the paper. It is still recommended to wear a mask because the shop vacs only capture to a micron or so. So technically you have a vac system that is actually a mini-part of a micron, invisible dust manufacturing plant. Over time, even that is a consideration. A good respirator, not a paper mask is advisable. A fresh air system is even better.
I had a body shop for 20 years, and after using the cheaper paper on the random orbit sanders, and winding up with a floor full of used paper, I can attest to the savings of using quality, aluminum oxide paper. It is actually cheaper, in addition to doing a better job. Highly recommended.

Holds up longer than the home center variety. Works great on my Bosch 6".

These pads are the best I have used at any price, velcro doesn't wear, bite is aggressive, and the paper is strong.