DeWalt Reviews

I purchased the JS102 few years ago and the others cost about 50% more at the time but with more features. First there was no oil in the oiler - the plastic cap cracked and I had oil all over inside the plastic case. The plastic case is blow mold and never closed right, like my cheap Chinese tool cases. Initially the I thought the cutting blade was missed aligned or too wide since the biscuits fit very loose in the slots even with plenty of glue in it, but now, after a few years, its ok, nice and tight with the same box of 1,000 biscuits I purchased elsewhere. The stick-on angle scale came off but the factory gave me a new one - never needed it anyway, all my cuts are at 90 degrees. If you have different thickness boards, the height adjustment on the fence could be a PIA since there are no fine adjustments like the other biscuit cutters. You need to make a few test cuts to make sure the slot is in the middle of the board or where you wanted it - I don't trust the scale. I have no problems with the dust bag, just empty it every 10 cuts - yes, lots chips form those slots.

Now the most erratic part: the motor/gear box sounds like it has a bunch of loose parts inside, sounds like they forgot to grease the gear box at the factory or it has broken teeth in gear box. Sounds worse than my Craftman 4.5" grinder. Other than that it feels solid and it does cut well after its set up. If only they would put in one dollar more for a better case, two dollars more for a fine adjustment and a little better quality control.

I had been looking at this joiner for a while and finally bought it when it was on sale for $83.99 + 10% off + free shipping (marked down from $119). I am very happy with it so far, a satisfied customer. I just used it to build an entryway bench for the Mrs and it came out great.

Since I like to know the downside of items I buy on amazon, here are the things I would change about this joiner if I could. None of them are deal breakers:
- The on/off switch is slightly clumsy.
- The dustbag does not stay on. I solved this problem by wrapping some tape around the dust port a few times.
- Dust collection is very marginal. Hooking the shop vac up to the dust port completely solved this problem.
- Setting the fence height is slightly difficult. The scale on the front isn't super accurate, so a few test cuts in scrap wood helped get things lined up before making real cuts.
- There is no angle scale on the tilting fence. I probably will not be making too many cuts that are not 90 or 45 degrees, so no biggie once again.

Overall, I am quite happy with this joiner and feel like I got a great deal on it.

The first joiner I recived was defective and needed to be returned. The next one proved to be the easiest one I've used yet. The only weak point so far is the fence hold down nut loosens a little too easy. That is something that needs to be monitored during operation. The bottom line is that I would definitely buy it again.
My sincere thanks to Amazon.com, you are the most awesome people and faster than a magician and always willing to please a customer.

I bought this drill at lowes for $75.00 with 2 batteries and case. At 4.2 lbs it feels like a feather compared to my monster 18v Bosch hammerdrill(6.7 lb). It seems to have all of the power I need,and it can handle the bigger bits.It is a real arm
saver.
Dewalts new compact series drill has more power than the 928,but also weighs several ounces more. The 928 is the most comfortable drill I have ever used.
I have found that the 928 has several limitations.
1. Limited runtime, while the 928 can use the big bits,it can't drill nearly as many holes as my 18v Bosch,this would probably apply to most 14.4v drills.
2. Two sleve chuck,Single sleeve is better.
3. Poor finish, The seam between the two body halves, are poorly finished,and are irratating in the handle area. I have noticed this on many of Dewalts Mexican made tools.My bosch on the on the other hand the body is perfectly finished.
All in all,it is a fine drill,if you can get one at a good price(like I did). Remember,The current drill goes for about $170.00 in most stores,I only paid $75.00. I have learned that when at home depot or lowes,always to check the return rack.

This is a replacement for my old 9.6V. Did not want to go up in voltage because of the balance and wieght of my 9.6V. Wrong answer.
The DW928 is well balanced and the weight is not noticable. The speed switch works easily. Which is a great improvement in the cordless line. Others i have looked at were hard to move. Many more clutch settings over my old one.
Battery life is unreal. Really gave it a workout. Good Job DeWalt
I would highly recommend this drill if 14 Volt is your game.

When I began looking around for a replacement for my 9.6v DeWalt cordless drill, I assumed I would be buying a 12v DeWalt. My 9.6v almost always had the power to do what I asked of it, so 12v seemed the next logical step. Then I found this 14.4v drill for an incredible price at a day-after-Thanksgiving sale (Lowes). In fact, the 99 bucks I paid for this drill is less that what I paid for my 9.6v 8+ years ago!

After using this drill on a couple of projects I can say two things with all honesty. First of all this drill is not overly heavy (I was worried about that), and second, it has power to spare. I suspect that the torque this drill provides is overkill for driving screws in most applications - afterall I was happy with the screw driving abilities of my 9.6v. However, it is very nice to have that torque when you are drilling through wood with big bits.

Basically, this drill is a very strong performer. The charger is well made, I have had no problems with it or the batteries, and the case is well made. If you have need for this kind of power or you find a good deal like I did, I highly recommend that you make this purchase!

RTC Construction, Inc. bought this tool for the purpose of finding level while hanging dropped ceilings, footer digs,leveling for kitchen installs, and establishing other benchmarks.
We found that DeWalt is on the cutting edge with this tool. We were pleased at how it worked in general. It was easy to use and I would not hesitate to recommend this tool. The dual diode was very bright and that was a nice treat.
The only thing I believe that needs to be improved is the bump warning system. It is very sensitive to any movement, and I wonder how the laser will react to a windy day outside. Often we found that the level was still level even while the bump warning light was blinking due to minor movement of a wall or the floor.
One other thing that needs improvement is the green vile to find level. The viles were hard to see in low light. Mounting to the ceiling, we had to use a flashlight to read the vile. Part of the problem was due to low lighting, but the other part was due to the green vile.
I was happy not to have to buy alot of accessories with this tool. It had all the essential accessories to get the job done.

I am not a professional home builder, so when posed with a few chores that would be a lot easier with this type of tool, I was unsure if the cost would be justified. However, I grabbed the checkbook and bit-the-bullet after researching the pros and cons, and playing with one for a while in our local tool store. After recently installing a suspended ceiling, and looking forward to installing vinyl siding and a shower room install, I feel that the cost was totally justified. Even though I am a do-it-yourselfer, my time is valuable to me, and this rotary laser saved me enough time and headaches that it is almost justified already. After the siding is done, I will probably pat myself on the back for the purchase and send DeWalt a thank-you note. The only downside is that this model, while versatile and accurate, is not a self-leveling device--that would have been nice, but with the DeWalt self-leveling laser at more than double the price, it is simply something for the professionals. Leveling it is easy enough, but does take some time to get it perfect. I like the fact that the mounting plate is integrated into the unit--seems like a good design, but time will tell on that one.

I am an advanced amateur carpenter/builder living on a small horse ranch in Southern California. I bought my DW073KD at Lowe's on an impulse and am in love with the darn thing. I do recognize the notion that self-leveling units are easier to operate. But I have been working with bubble levels all my life and feel very comfortable doing the manual setup. I am doing a remodel in my guest house and have used the unit for everything from laying out recessed lighting to plumbing out a new door in a new wall. The battery power works great and it mates up well with my 12-volt Dewalt drill and trim saw. Went to Lowes last night to buy the tripod and grade rod, then surveyed my property in the dark. Awesome.
P.S. If you are an automation freak, by all means get the latest automatic unit. But if you have craftsman genes, this is a great device.

I could not remove lugs torqued at 95ft/lbs,just sat there. My air impact easly removed them,and I could remove the lugs by hand without a problem. They were torqued with a torque wrench,Husky brand(not a cheap wrench),not rusted and no extension and impact socket was used(craftsman). Tightening was better but not even 95 ft/lbs, and you have to stay on the wrench along time and it will get very hot. I do not tighten with an impact normally but I wanted to see what the tool would do. Tried 3 of them from a local store,could not be an isolated problem,bad design for non woodworking use.

I got this becuase I didnt have air tools.

Its NOT a replacement for a true air wrench. However it isnt a bad substitute.

"Crack" the lug nuts using a *large* 4 cross before jacking the car and then use the wrench to spin em off and back on. Dont spin em on too tight - and set the torque using an accurate "clicker" type torque wrench.

That being said - for many other bolts its a life saver.

Front wheel drive stub axle hexes. I cant BUDGE those things uisng a huge breaker bar (the car moves!) but this wrench will bust em off - eventually.

The tool will get hot with extended use.
Its HEAVY but rugged. I drop/drag mine all across the floor all the time.

Wear hearing protection and safety glasses as well as using the appropriate IMPACT sockets.

Too heavy IMHO for "construction" work.

I build deluxe redwood and cedar swingsets for a living and use this wrench daily. In fact i dont think anyone anywhere uses a single tool as much as i use this wrench. In an average day i will sink between 300-500 3/8inch lag bolts into relativly wet redwood. i burned out another manufactures gun in 3 weeks last year this lasted me the whole year, went in for dewalt free maintenance service in january and is still running strong. I ve dropped this tool more times than i can count, often use it as a hammer( don't recomend that but in a pinch it works), used it in heavy rain(dewalt says not to but I use a GFI to be safe), and tossed it around my truck in all kinds of conditions and all it does is keep working. One thing that went wrong was the detent pin on the anvil broke, which didn't affect its performance I just stuck a broken nail in the hole till dewalt got me the replacement. Also its seem s that this gun is a little weak when brand new as I just bought a new one for my helper and it took a about 2 days to get it up to speed with my old one. It now runs fine though and its probably just a case of ait needing a little break in time. This may explain why some people have had trouble un torquing lug bolts, also could be that their lug nuts are really overtigtened by an air impact or a long extension bar. All in all a great tool that I would and have bought again .

This is very useful - for more than just Crown Molding. When used in conjunction with the clamp, the work piece will not move on the mitre saw. My only reservation is that I wish they were larger to hold larger pieces of stock.

For a while the catch phrase was "Did I mention I hate crown molding". I had stops for the DW705 and that all changed. I wouldn't do crown molding without these. After buying the new DW715, it was common sense that I had to have them. I wouln't pay over $20 for them however.

Before I got these crown stops, mitering crown moulding was like rocket science, now I don't have to think about which way to turn the crown moulding to make a proper cut, I can do it in my sleep.

Ahhh yes DeWalt has a cordless reciprocating saw. This tool is ideal for drywall, metal stud and thin steel cutting. It is perfect for the tool line up. Keyless clamp make blade changing easy and allow you to get right back to work. Cordless is convenience but not all powerfull. For heavy long jobs the corded dewalt and milwaukee reciprocating saws will get the job done. I give this 5 stars for light duty (drywall, metal and wood studs, thin steel, plywood etc.) but only 2.5 for long lasting work.

Another reviewer mentioned that he only got 90 to 120 seconds of cutting time with his saw. I got much better performance. Right after pulling it out of the box, the included battery needed charging, so I borrowed a 5 year old, partially discharged 18 volt battery from our Dewalt cordless drill and proceeded to cut away 14: 2x6 roof rafters, 3: 2x8 rafters, the soffit and fascia, then a few 4" diameter saplings and various branches from nearby maple trees. The battery was still going strong. With a sharp blade, this tool will melt through 2" lumber. It's seems to cut more quiclky than my old Milwaukee Sawsall, but it is not as smooth and vibration free as the new Makita reciprocating saw (which is AC). This is a great tool that will get far more use than just for demolition around our house.

This tool really amazed me. I thought it would be a toy but to my suprise it could handle just about any task. When it was broken by another worker, in a pinch I bought a Milwaukee. Talk about a joke. No battery life. No power to speak of. Milwaukee should stick to making corded tools because they will never compare with the DeWalt. I got a quick $250.00 lesson with the Milwaukee and ordered another DeWalt. Now to find someone who will take the Milwaukee.

Although this drill is compact and works OK for lightduty drilling/screwdriving, it has several drawbacks. Many a coworker has picked mine upto use it, and then stand it on the battery only to find a big dent or scratch in a finished floor from the drill falling forward. Ive owned mine for 2 and1/2 years and the batteries are so weak I can stop the drill with my bare hands.Never did have enough power to drive Tapcons.

I've used this tool for 5+ years and it has never failed me. I've driven 1000s of screws and drilled 1000's of holes. Each battery has been charged probably 200 times and they still are going strong.

I use it mostly for driving in #8 and #10 screws up to 3" long. Plenty of power for that.

It would probably be underpowered for drilling anything bigger than 1/2", but that's what what my drill press or corded drill is for.

I have a couple of these little drills. They backup my other bigger, fancier drills, and have done an good job of it. I suppose you could level lots of critcism - like "They are not as strong, nor as well finished, nor do the batteries hold their charge as well as a Makita, a Bosch, a Panasonic, or even as well as other 12V Dewalts." - BUT what makes a "good" drill is it will reliably do the job for which it was purchased. This drill has done a good job of that. Several times I have reached for it when I am between charges on my "other" drills, and I have been able to finish the job, or when a friend needs to borrow a drill. I don't feel "undergunned" with it. Would I work it all day on a tough job site? - No, but it is a good DYIer or household drill for not much money. At that level, this drill should last a long time, and it is certainly a better drill for the money than some of the others on the market. I guess it is kinda like a serviceable, basic sedan compared to an SUV or sports car. There is always a place for a good, no-frills sedan. Will it get you there, sure. Will it climb mountains or go 0-60 in 5 seconds - no. This drill is a basic "sedan" of drills, but it gets the job done, and if you don't abuse it, it should last a long time.

I have used this saw for many diferent projects around the house from fine coping to 3/4" plywood. I even used it with a masonry blade and a makeshift rip fence to cut an imitation marble vanity top to size. I have beeen very pleaed with the performance and durability of the saw. The only problem I have had with the saw is when I am cutting low radius curves. The blade often slips out of the groove on the roller and bends to the side. This problem is diminished with a narrow coping blade but still doesn't go away. Overall, I would recommend this saw.

I have used this saw for many different projects around the house from fine coping to rough cutting 3/4" boards. I even used it with a masonry blade and makeshift rip fence to cut an imitation marble vanity top to fit into an opening. I have been extremely pleased with the performance of this saw and it seems to be holding up very well. The only problem that I seem to experience on a regular basis is when I am scrolling and I try to make a low radius cut, the blade slips from the channel on the roller and bends to the side. This causes a lot of problems with your cut. I can eleminate most of the problem by using a much narrower coping blade but it still happens from time to time.

I've been very pleased with the DW318 after only a few uses. I've not found the out of square problem that others have noted perhaps because I've only cut 1 1/2" RC Cedar which is very soft.

I am disappointed that the foot is prepared for a fence of some sort but none are listed in DW's accessory list. What's this all about? It would be nice if DW offered an adjustable radius cutting fence for repetitive accurate radius cuts.

Based only on reviews I bought this sliding table for my DeWalt table saw. The sliding table is fine, easy to install and regulate, and works smoothly. But the Miter Gauge is a joke and not a toy. Toys allow you to play with it, at least. This miter gauge wobbles so much that is even dangerous using it. I called DeWalt and after 3 days feeling myself like a tennis ball between DeWalt customer service and the local technical service, I finally received a phone call from DeWalt and the first person who knew the product I was talking about sad "- sorry, bud there is some play on it and we don't have a fix yet". What's worse: the local Technical service told me that my Miter Gauge, model number DW 7471, has been discontinued and they don't even have support for that. How can they sell things they don't support anymore? Should I call a lawyer?

So, if you are planning to buy this table, be ready to spend some extra $150.00 to have the Miter Gauge this table deserves and for this price you could think about an Excalibur sliding table- if you have the space for it. The bad feeling is that I can't trust DeWalt anymore, they should think about this.

I've found the table to be a great addition to the saw; the mitre gauge less impressive. The table is fairly easy to set up--although the instructions could be improved, if you have a helper for the lifting step the parts are all well-engineered and fit together well. It took me about 5 minutes to level it perfectly--you should set the horizontal distance from the main table before adjusting the set screws. It slides smoothly. And it adds 100lbs or so to the saw, making it even more stable--a big plus.

But I'll be saving my pennies to buy a replacement mitre gauge, as the DeWalt gauge is very sloppily put together. Even locked down at every adjustment, it wobbles, and I have no confidence in any angle set. I'm using the stock mitre gauge for the time being, and that's a workable interim solution.

EDITED 9/7/04: DeWalt shipped me a replacement gauge which locks down beautifully, and will enable great precision. Altogether I now have a very fine package--certainly worth five stars.

I had absolutly no trouble with reading, understanding and following the instruction when installing the DW7461 Heavy Duty Table Slide to my Dewalt Table Saw.

To me the key was. Don't go to the following step until the prior one is completly understood and inplemented.

Well worth the cost.

We're a G.C. specializing in timberframe construction. We've found the Prazi to work very well both in trimming timbers and in cutting 4&6 inch panels. Invariably we get customers who want a window added or moved and we used to use a Sawzall. The Prazi paid for itself the first day we used it.
We use it on a Milwaukee 8-1/4 inch worm drive saw and although a bit on the heavy side, the thing is a beast. Change-over is a bit exaggerated in the ad. In actuality it takes about 2 minutes.

I bought a Prazi Beamcutter to trim and notch the tops of 8x8 installed posts that were required for a foundation on a room addition that I'm building. I just needed a saw the would cut the posts square. Also, I knew that I couldn't make a square cut on these posts with a chain saw or with a Sawzall and a long blade. Moreover, I needed something that would work but didn't cost a fortune. With that, I bought a Prazi PR-7000 for my Skillsaw Mag-77HD. It's not perfect, but it does the trick. Mounted on the Skillsaw, the Beamcutter feels a bit awkward, especially when used at a 90-degree angle. Don't think that you can just walk up to a verticle 8x8 post, mark a line, and expect to cut it off square just buy holding the saw steady. You will need to use some sort of fence to rest and guide the saw on in order to get the square cut. I use one of those nifty aluminum clamp-on fences which works very well.

My only real complaint is, like Evan Neale put it in his review, "the bar bounces around a lot when you begin to cut into a beam so you get sloppy cuts starting out". The bar actually vibrates quickly from side to side thus making the start of the cut a little wide, but he vibration quickly goes away once the bar and chain enters the kerf. Overall, the cuts are fairly clean and very satisfactory for my job.

I find the Prazi Beamcutter to be a good value.

We were doing some very heavy timber beam end detailing (8" x 13" solid mahogany). We used this tool to rough them in and finished up with pattern bits on the routers. We could find no other tool that could come close to doing what this one did. It paid for itself on the first beam in labor savings. We put it to some hard use and its still working fine.