Delta Reviews

Solid and stable. Easy to assemble. Too short for my liking. Would have liked it to be ~4" taller. Bolting the grinder with a 2X under helped.

Excellent heavy duty grinder stand. Very sturdy with handy center tray adding very good support. Easy to assemble with only one socket wrench. Took only about 15 minutes to assemble. Delta had the foresight to even include the necessary bolts, nuts and lockwashers for mounting a grinder to the stand. A nice touch. The included rubber leg caps keep the stand from slidiing around on tile workshop floors. This is a must have item for anyone who wants to save space on their workbench. This stand makes your grinder totally portable making it a far better choice then the pedestal type stands that must be permanently bolted to the floor. Highly recommended!

I just purchased the Delta 23-735 10" industrial grinder after looking at other options such as Baldor or Dayton. While the quality of the grinder is not in the same class as either of the aforementioned units, neither is the price. A 10" Baldor or similar with the pedestal would run at least $200 more.

The grinder arrived in two boxes, each adequately packaged to prevent damage. With the heaviest box weighing in at 115 pounds, some damage to the packaging was expected, and sure enough found. The grinder was undamaged.

Assembly of the unit was straightforward, and all parts required were included with the exception of an Allen wrench for tightening the pedestal post to the base. While these were factory installed, they were not tight enough to prevent the post from turning in the base once the grinder had been installed. Also, the holes in the flanged post base were not centered, and in order to mount the flanged post base on the square baseplate, some minor filing of one of the bolt heads was required.

Upon initial startup, the grinder exhibited some vibration. Close examination seems to indicated a small imbalance due to non-symetrical grinding wheels, but facing of the wheels should cure this. Power of the unit is adequate, and motor noise is much lower than expected. Coast down time after the grinder is switched of is quite long. The heft of the unit does a nice job of minimizing vibration.

The flexible lamp does not include a light bulb, but does seem to be constructed fairly well.

All in all, the unit appears to be solidly made, and should be more than adequate for most users looking for a heavy duty 10" grinder.

Excellent professional grade grinder

I've had the Delta 23-735 10" industrial grinder for a couple of years as of this writing. If you already own a grinder, consider retrofitting your old machine with wire or buffing wheels. Overheating metal parts was a serious issue on my previous 3450-RPM grinder, but is less so on this 1725 RPM machine - that alone made this a worthwhile investment. The 23-735 is big and heavy; 125 pounds; 15 1/4" wheel center to center; and 11" tall at the motor housing. All that cast iron in the motor frame and tool supports keeps vibration well within the acceptable range, and gives the tool a look of quality and heft. The toggle switch is protected, so it's unlikely you'll accidentally turn it on, a good safety feature. I prefer a can of water for a quenching tray as it's quicker to fill and empty, but the built-in water tray is amply sized. The fitted lamp is nice, but the goose-neck section should be a few inches longer. At the rear of each wheel's housing is a 2.5" dust port. I usually keep a rubber-banded sock on each port; but attach a vacuum on dusty jobs.

Since I'm tall, the grinder is mounted on a 39" high bench. I used the very sturdy 33" high cast iron pedestal that comes with the grinder for another shop tool. I only use the Delta grinder a few times a week, so buying a Baldor 10" grinder (triple the cost), couldn't be justified. The Baldor was also much too wide for the available space.

The Sears Craftsman 10" professional grinder (model #21160) costs about the same as this unit from Amazon.com, but it doesn't include that nifty pedestal. (I'd give no credence to Sear's claim of 1 HP versus Delta's stated 3/4 HP, since the machines are virtually identical. Delta's is plenty powerful, and they probably make the Sears machine anyway.)

In summary, if you use a grinder for hours every day or need the wheels to be really far apart, get the Baldor. For everyone else, the Delta is a professional grade grinding machine.

The clamp goes on well and holds on to material securely. The only draw back is that the size that will fit in the miter clamp is limited by the rails securing the hold down. Really not a flaw, just an inconvenience. Amazing how Delta stuff fits so well on Delta products.

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I just received this Delta Deluxe Miter Gauge #34-928. You wouldn't believe me if I told you how long ago I ordered it. I guess a fresh batch is in so order it quick. Now on to the item. When they say that it is accurate, the first thing I did, when I took it out of the box, was break out the Bosch Digital Protractor. It measures angles with a digital readout in tenths of a degree. (Equal to 3600 dots in a circle, no matter how small the circle) I put the miter gauge to the test. I clamped an aluminum level onto the face to extend the surface, and guess what? I got perfect readings after trying the detent stops, and even got the same results when I eyeballed a setting just using the pointer. It wasn't even off by a tenth of a degree.
At first I was confused, because some of the stops weren't right on the number, then I realized that they have stops at the popular detents, and some of those are in tenths of a degree.
Point number two is that I was impressed that the miter gauge bar that rides in your miter slot has little Allen bolts imbedded in it, so you can adjust it perfectly, to eliminate any play. When I put it in my Powermatic 66, it fit so perfectly, without any play, that I don't even need to fiddle with it. It is so snug that you would have to measure the play in thousandths of an inch, as in non-existent, yet it slides along the track like it was on greased wheels. It fit my Bench Dog miter track on their Router table extension for table saws the same way. The Might T track miter track guides had a little slop in it, but that is obviously the track and not the gauge. I guess you can tell where I will be using it. (Although the play is adjustable for any 3/4 x 3/8 track)
Point three is that the bottom of the gauge is polished so smooth that it will not scratch your saw tabletop. The front face of the gauge where you rest your work, looks like it was fine ground-polished with something like a 1000 grit wheel. You can see ultra-ultra fine lines going in a circle from where it was fine machined.
I strongly recommend that you also get Delta's clamp attachment that works with this gauge. The one that I bought is the 34-568 clamp assy, and it fits and works perfectly. Delta and Amazon feature the Delta cheapy miter gauge with the clamp as a combo package for about the same money as buying this Deluxe gauge and the 34-568 clamp assy as separate pieces. So for about the same money you are getting Delta's best, and in this example it is worthy of that title.
The gauge and clamp combo perfectly resolves the problem of when you are trying to cope the ends of your rails in a raised panel bit set. You know the problem, you have to hold that two-inch wide board and run the bit over the tip. Trying to get the bit to not move the board, by either pushing it a little away from the fence, or run into the second fence face causing a stop is a major accomplishment. Many use sleds with clamps on them, but then you are raising the work piece off of the table to make up for the sled base plate. With a router, that is a major consideration, because that oftentimes leads to having to raise the bit higher up out of the collar, causing more vibration and potentially a dangerous bit flying condition. This gauge and clamp combo locks it in just the same, but keeps the work piece flat against the tabletop. The other advantage to that is if you are running some larger pieces at the same time, you can do it by removing the gauge, and not have to change a bit setting. Wow! I'm getting off on this, I don't know about you. :-)
Another point is that the picture doesn't do it any justice. The fit, the finish, the accuracy of the deluxe gauge is better than any other miter gauge I have seen, even the one that came with the Powermatic saw. I can't recommend this high enough. Is it because it is a waxed Ferrari sitting in the garage? No, it is because it is as accurate and fine as a miter gauge can get. Buy one, you won't be sorry. Hope this helps.

Simply put, this tool does the job. It is well constructed and built for heavy-duty use. I found out the hard way that the only reliable way to get quality cuts is to use a feeder. It's also a terrific safety device. It keeps your hands from getting anywhere near the cutter. Without it, you must stop feeding the material to reposition your hands and results in imperfections in the final product.

I gave it 4 stars only because the gear cover is plastic and the knobs/studs that hold it in place are cheaply made. These items were damaged when I received the feeder and replaced under warranty. The rest of the machine is excellent.

A while back I bought a shaper to build passage doors & windows. When I pushed the stock thought the cutters I didn't have total control of the material being pushed thought. Then is the time I decided to buy a Power Feeder, now I have full control of my material being fed thought. The feeder has the right speed settings for my projects (slow). The way I can set the feeder to the angles of force to keep the material next to the fence, and on the table is total control for me. The only accessoire that came with the stock feeder is the grease gun, which is a big joke, thank goodness for the America made grease guns.

What can one say about the Unisaw that has not already been said... well considering I'm the first person to review this model it looks like it's up to me. The Delta Unisaw (and it's predecessor the Rockwell Unisaw) is a standard piece of equipment in just about every shop I've ever seen, been in or worked in (including my own). Solid, well made and built to last and last and last. The mechanisms for raising, lowering and angling the blade are accurate and easy to use, but keep them clean and lubricated, the arbour is dead on and the table surfaces are as flat as required for woodworking.

If your looking into table saws here are a few recommendations:

1.) Never buy a table saw with a motor less than 3 HP unless it is going to be carted around and used on job sites (having said that, I have seen Unisaws used as job site saws!). 3 HP may seem like overkill, but this is a safety issue more than anything else. A gentleman I knew years ago had a horrible accident when a piece of lumber he was ripping got kicked back dragging his hand through the blade... he lost half his hand and mangled his thumb beyond recognition. The cause? By his own admission, a saw that didn't have enough power to cut through a piece of lumber that was distorting as he cut it, it just kicked back and his hand was in the wrong place at the wrong time. In 30 years of woodworking I have never had wood kickback; bog yes, smoke yes, pinch the blade many times, but never kick back and I attribute this to the power of the saw. If a 3 HP motor can't cut through a piece of wood, toss it out and move on. Thickness has nothing to do with this, some lumber just has too much internal stress and as the stress is released by a cut (usually when ripping) it distorts pinching the blade or jamming the wood between the fence and the blade. FYI, I don't use a saw guard, splitter or anti-kickback pawls; we were taught how to use saws without guards and to have a good healthy respect for the inherent danger in all woodworking machinery.

2.) Buy either the Unifence or the Beisemyer fence system. I can't believe that Delta still make and ship as "standard" the old two rail fence... it was junk on the first Rockwell Unisaw I purchased 30 years ago and is more than likely still junk. I own a Unifence (and have used these many times in other shops) and I am very pleased with it's performance even after 15 years of use on my current saw. My only complaint with the Unifence is the difficulty in attaching special hold-downs or guides to it.

3.) Take the standard mitre guide that ships with the saw and throw it away. This is another "I can't believe that Delta still makes..." statements. Ditto on this and the standard fence, junk then, junk now. Invest in a decent mitre guide or buy the Delta sliding table attachment for the Unisaw (I've also reviewed this item) you'll be glad you did. I have an old Accumitre which is very good and they have improved the way the bar fits in the table saw slot (and as an added bonus, you can buy the new bar for older versions of the guide). Precision mitre guides are all about how the bar fits in the table saw slot, the head of the guide could be machined to 1000th of an inch accuracy, but it all goes out the window if the bar wiggles in the table slot. The Osborne looks interesting, but Accumitre make a material hold down which I need for some of the work I do.

4.) Get the mobile base. I've never been overly happy with the mobile base that I have for my Unisaw with a 52" Unifence, it just doesn't seem to be designed to accommodate this configuration. However, I'll admit that I have a box of saw blades and a considerable number of glue batons sitting on the lower shelf... so in many ways I've compromised the functionality of the mobile base myself. I'd still get the mobile base even if you have the luxury of a permanent location for your saw, at the very least it makes clean up around and under the saw a breeze.

5.) Hook the saw up to a dust collector and get the motor cover (don't get the motor cover without dust collection or you will run into over-heating problems). Dust collection in the cabinet keeps the mess down (well duh!) but it also keep the mess off the worm gear mechanisms used to crank the blade up, down and to angles. I'm currently trying to find a suitable dust collection mechanism for above the blade for the well being of my lungs. Nowhere near 100% of all dust travels downwards in cutting operations especially with sheet stock.

Right tilt or left tilt is more-so related to the type of work you are planning to do. Mine is the right tilt version which is perfect for cutting mitres off the mitre guide positioned to the left of the saw, but tricky to rip angled cuts off the fence. This is because the second cut will always have the tip of the angle from the first cut trying to go under the fence. Ripping angles off the fence is simplified on left tilt saws; but I personally have never liked having the blade angled towards me when making mitre cuts with a mitre guide, and I've never liked using the right slot for this purpose (old dog, new trick kind of thing). There may come a day when Delta will make a saw that tilts both left and right, but until then you have to make a choice at the get go.

A table saw is perhaps the most important piece of equipment in your shop so get a good one, with the Unisaw you can't go wrong. If Delta shipped the saw with a decent mitre guide this would be a 5 star rating.

I've owned a Delta 34-829 10" 3 HP Tilting Arbor Unisaw with 52" Delta Unifence since 1989. The only differences I can see between my saw and this model, is this one has a better switch, and my fence guide-bar is black.

I've used my Delta table saw hundreds of times and have found it to be an outstanding tool. The cast-iron main table and two cast-iron side-wings are still perfectly flat (although not highly polished like the Powermatic model 66 table saw).

The 3 HP motor is a total powerhouse. When doing heavy-duty cutting, the motor never bogs down, or even slows down -- there are two V-belts to keep the blade turning. Tough work will go into the blade at a slower speed, but just push harder. Unless you run a production shop, there is no need to buy the 5-HP unit (which needs 3-phase service anyway). You'll need a 220-volt outlet for this tool.

If you can afford it and have the room in your shop, get a 52" cabinet grade table saw. With it, there's virtually no wood size you won't be able to handle. E.g., you can even rip a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood in half (at the 48" point) with this saw. The right hand table area is perfect to double as a router table. Not as good as a shaper, but less expensive and it takes no additional shop space. If you have less than a huge shop, put the table saw on a wheeled stand. I roll mine in place to use it, and then roll it back against the wall when done.

Getting the fence parallel to the blade took some time initially, as I recall, but I've never had to realign it in 16 years of use. E.g., wood never binds because the fence isn't parallel to the blade. The fence is so accurate and perfectly flat on all sides; there is no need to mark the wood to be cut. A ruler is adhered to the guide-rail and that's what you use to determine where to lock the fence. Simply put the red line from the fence locking assembly on the exact place on the ruler, and cut. The wood is the right width, every time.

I have no complaints with the Unifence. It's amazing that it has stayed in perfect alignment on my Unisaw for 16 years. It never warps, bends, or twists. Unlike other fence systems, you can slide the fence forward or backward on the fence locking assembly, before tightening the fence in place. I find that useful, for example, when an anti-kickback device is attached to the fence and it gets in the way of the blade guard. It's also useful if you want extra fence length forward or backward, for control purposes. Simply unscrew two knobs and slide the fence into the desired position, then tighten the knobs. The fence shape is ideal for attaching kickback devices that clamp on because the aluminum is 1/8" thick and there is a large flat area the length of the fence that is ideal for this purpose.

The fence can be attached vertically (normal), or horizontally (flat) to the locking mechanism. In the flat position, the fence part that touches the wood is only 1/2" high, versus 3 �", when the fence is vertical. This is advantageous if the blade is tilted towards the fence and you need the fence close to the blade (i.e., when a high fence would impede the saw guard or blade), or, if part of the side of the work to be cut pokes out, assuming that part will ride above the 1/2" high fence (e.g., as in laminate work). I don't use this often, but it's a nifty feature of the Unifence. To move the fence to the left of the blade, loosen those two knobs, flip the fence end over end, and mount it on the right (instead of the left) of the fence locking assembly. Pull up on the locking mechanism's handle and the fence is easily removable from the saw to move it to the left, or, to get it out of the way (e.g., if using the "router table"). Like all top-of-the-line fences, the Unifence firmly locks into place with a single handle and the fence mechanism rides on a single guide rail.

There is a Delta 34-878 Cut-Off Fence for Unifence Saw Guide accessory that is unique in the professional fence market. Check that out.

You cannot do precision table saw work without a perfectly accurate fence. The Unifence fills that bill.

My Unisaw's 4" dust port is connected to a 3 HP dust collection system. I don't use the Delta blade guard that came with the saw -- made my own out of 3/16" polycarbonate. Mine has three advantages over Delta (and most other) blade guards. My saw guard:

1.Is stronger, since it's thicker material
2.Prevents sawdust from flying out the front of it since it has piece of polycarbonate blocking that path
3.Has an airtight 3" hose port facing to the rear (tilted 11 degrees up from the table) on top of the guard. A 3" flexible hose is connected to the dust collection system. Between the 3" vacuum hose on top and the 4" vacuum hose underneath, almost all sawdust is sucked away.

About the only mechanical negative on the Delta, is that the blade raising/lowering and tilting mechanisms binds slightly at the end of their travel (unlike the Powermatic 66, which is better in this regard).

Table saws are amongst the most dangerous shop tools, along with radial arm saws. You can be seriously hurt, or even lose a body part if careless. In addition, on certain types of cuts, if you don't use an anti-kickback device, the blade can hurl a piece of wood backwards at great speed. To keep from being distracted, I always work alone, with no radio or TV going.

In spite of this being a professional grade cabinet saw, there are better saws, but they are more expensive. Two examples:

-- Saw Stop brand table saw, (Sawstop dot com). Probably the safest table saw made; the blade stops instantly if it contacts your hand or fingers.

-- The new Powermatic 2000. Seeing this machine on display at a recent woodworkers show made me envious.

The chuck is really well made and the wrench moves the jaws very smoothly. Unfortunately I have to return it. Not because the chuck has any faults, but rather because the description and the professional reviewer failed to tell me that the jaws are adjusted individually, rather than concentrically with one turning of the wrench. Now that's a good feature if you are working with blanks that need that. But my needs were stricly for round concentric bowl use, and I wanted to be able to ensure the bowl blank was centered with one tightening operation. The picture shows the T-wrench and one adjustment socket. No hint that the chuck has independent adjustments. By the way, the Delta label on the box indicates the independent adjustment. So should Amazon's description.

So, if that's what you need, it is a solid product, just what you'd expect from Delta. That's why I gave it 4 stars. Couldn't give it 5 without actually using it, and since I'm returning it, I couldn't do that.

Good deal, package well. This chuck is great for odd shaped parts, since each jaw moves independent of others.Good for home hobby or commercial use.

I bought this 50-284 base extension and the 50-277 machine base (ASIN B000022364) to use with my Powermatic 64 tablesaw, which has the 50" fence and table. I was a bit worried about whether the other part was properly sized for the Powermatic 64's foot dimensions, but it was just fine. This part mostly accomodates the extension table's feet, because the joints for the extension table feet are not predrilled or anything, so you control their placement.

I only had one little problem -- and I believe it is either my misunderstanding something or a problem with the Powermatic extension table -- not a problem with this base: The feet that came with the table saw extension table were not tall enough to reach down to the mobile base's angle irons, even when the feet were unscrewed completely from the legs. Seems pretty odd to me, as that means they were probably not tall enough for use without the mobile base, either... But the problem was very easily solved by cutting a piece of scrap wood and laying it down across the mobile base extension's depth, which then added enough height for the feet to make contact.

I gave the product 4 stars because I feel it is overpriced.

What's there to say. It fit perfectly and all 400+ pounds of saw rolls around easily.

I recieved this collector as a gift. Probably would not have bought it on my own, mainly because I thought I needed more hp. I was wrong. Have had this little jewel in the shop now for about 7 months and its perfect. I have a very small shop, 120 sq ft, and this unit fits under my home made saw table (New Yankee Workshop version). I generally only have one machine running at a time so I just move the hose around. Very seldom have to move the machine. It does a great job of collecting the dust and chips from the table saw, planer, miter saw and band saw. The only problem I have had is with the zipper on the bag, I think it could have been a little heavier construction, but if you remember to vacuum the zipper edges before you attempt to close it up again it works fine. I added an additional length of 4" hose (10ft) to the hose that came with the machine so I could easily reach all my chip producers as I did not want to constuct a permanent pipe system and have not had any problems with static electricity. I'm thinking of adding one of the "can" type second stages to my little system so I am not emptying the bag so often. This is a perfect upgrade from a shop vac type of system.

My shop consist of a one car garage and I do alot of Bandsaw projects. The amount of sawdust produced by a Bandsaw is enormous and with very little air circulation this poses a health hazard. This dust collector takes care of this problem. Its ease of mobility to go from one machine to another has keeped sawdust to a minimum with very little to clean up at the end of a day, also making it easy to store. This unit does get warm but not hot and has not tripped any breakers during long operating periods. It is rated at 80db but because of the size of my shop is seem alittle louder than that. I had this unit running in about five minutes out of the box and have been pleased with its perfomance.

This drill has a 1/2 inch chuck and about 300 inch pounds of torque. It weighs about 5 lbs. Although the torque to weight ratio is not the greatest compared to newer smaller battery models, this drill is about as good as you're going to get for the money. Deltas smaller shopmasters are too underpowered for bigger jobs. I would compare this one favorably to any of the Skills and it blows away most B&D's. Blows away all "cheapie" 18v's. I don't know if replacing batteries will be easy nor do I know how long they will last. This drill seems powerful enough to tackle most household/home improvement work.

From the company best known for it's table saws and other woodworking tools comes the Delta Shopmaster line of cordless drills geared toward the do-it-yourself homeowner. This drill is an adequately powered, quality cordless drill at a cost that you can easily handle. It's great for screwing around. [...]

Do you have to pay extra for all of the required parts? And do you have to pay even more for the instructions? Amazon, what is wrong with your company? I would highly suggest not to buy anything from amazon that is suppose to come in more than one piece. This looks like a nice stand, however, right now it is just a big paperweight as I can't even mount the saw to the stand. Do yourself a favor, buy elsewhere!

I bought this stand some time ago, and I guess I should have opened the box right away. Now that I finally really to start working on my project, I have a stand that I cannot assemble because the stupid instructions are not in the box! One reviewer says he or she found them, but does not do the rest of us losers the courtesy of letting us know where they found them. And, I don't see that Amazon or Tool Crib took any initiative to do so either given all of the complaints about missing instructions. Does anyone know where they can be found?

No need to write an extensive review as there are many already. This product works perfectly with my Bosch 10" sliding compound miter saw. I had no difficulty assembling it, and it is rock solid as a base for the saw.

I have not tried other bases, but I see no reason to based on my very positive experience with this unit. For those that did not receive instructions, I can tell you mine came with them. After seeing that others had complained about not receiving them, I went online and was able to find them within about 1 minute, so I don't believe that their omission is a good reason to ding this stand heavily.

To clear up another misconception: Delta is NOT owned by Black and Decker. Delta is owned by Pentair, which also owns Porter-Cable. The operations of these two entities have been consolidated. Both Delta and Porter-Cable are still producing excellent product. As an owner of a Delta Unisaw and this unit, as well as many PC tools, my own experience is that the quality is there.

Using a mobile base like the Delta 50-155 is the only way to go.