Freud Reviews

This is fine set--strong, well-made, sharp, and packaged in a handsome wood storage box. Well worth the price. Only negative for me is the reveal on the panel raising bit wasn't quite the size I would have liked.

Here are some points that may prove helpful to you.

A. The description doesn't identify the five bits. They are from left to right in the picture 1) a bit for mating edges of boards for glue-ups 2) the panel raising bit, 3) a door lip bit--for making center panel lips that overhand rails and stiles, 4 and 5) a matched pair for cutting rails and stiles. If you are doing raised panels 2), 4) and 5) are the bits that count.

B. The set comes with a helpful how-to booklet. It is first rate. But, alongside the picture of the five bits on page 6 is a caption that misidentifies the five. The order is wrong. Left to right the bits shown are actually panel raiser, rail cutter, stile cutter, glue joint and door lip.

C. The panel raising bit will produce a relief of 3/4" (excluding the 3/8" that recesses into the rail and stile grooves). That's less than the more common 1-1 1/2" reveals on many kitchen cabinet doors. It turned out to be very acceptable for my rather small doors (20"x20"), but it may or may not be what you need or want.

D. You absolutely need to use a router/shaper table. The panel raising bit has a 2 1/2" diameter, so you need no less than a 3" throat opening.

E. The bits all worked fine on my 2 HP variable speed router--using red oak stock. (Variable speed helps a lot and is probably a must.)

F. You will want to make practice cuts on scrap, back up end cuts with waste stock to minimize tear-out, use a safety guard on the router/shaper table--along with safety glasses and use hold-downs to secure work pieces as they pass through the bit.

The raised panel doors were fun to make and they look splendid. Good luck with yours!

The large review written here, really covered all of the bases. The one more thing worth mentioning, is that Freud sells the larger more popluar 1 1/2" reveal in a set, which has the 3 1/2" bit to make it, plus the stile and rail set. They come in different part numbers starting with 97- So two of them for example are 97-100, and 97-104. Be sure your router base is at least 3 5/8" to accept them.
It does not include the glue up joint bit, or the drawer lock bit. The glue up joint bit is great for mating a number of panels. Avoids the lip of one or more boards sitting a little proud, that is frequently a problem. It is not a problem, if you have a very large sanding station, belt or drum, you can send a complete door through and get all of the surfaces even. For the rest of us, a glue up bit is just what the doctor ordered. What happens is that you run the bit in adjoining pieces. One piece is run face up, then next is run face down. Then the two mate together perfectly, as long as you have the registration set proplerly. When the boards are clamped-compressed together, they line up. The other thing is the drawer lock bit, which gives you the drawer front, by (rabbetting) the back of the drawer front, including and edge lip which is beneficial to ensure a clean close.
Freud bits are superior in the job they do. They leave a clean finish on the work, and saves a lot of time not having to sand out imperfections. All in all this is a very nice set. Highly recommended.

I'm new to the world of wood but enjoy making many different projects including raised panel cabinet doors. I have used 3 of the 5 bits in this set and like the previous reviewer, have found them to be extremely sharp and to leave a perfectly smooth edge in hardwoods including red oak and ash. As a side note, I'm particularly greatful for Amazon's online shopping resource as my local supplier feels justified in gouging me for top quality Freud products such as these. A similar set through him would cost easily 3 times as much as Amazon is charging. Overall the product and the price are certainly a fair value.

When I received the Freud raised pannel bit set, I was very anxious to try it out. The bit set included a very detailed booklet on making raised pannel doors - I found it to be quite useful and a nice surprise. The reverse glue joint bit works very well - I have been using biscuits up to this point, but I think I will use this bit for any future pannel glue ups. It took about 10 minutes to set it up for the first time - but it works really well and I can run boards through very quickly. The rail and stile bits are exactly what I was expecting - a high quality set that produces clean, sharp edges and a tight mating joint. The raised pannel bit itself was pretty awesome - unlike some of the other bits I looked at with two cutting edges, Freud uses four edges which results in an extremely smooth cut - even on the end grain. Finally, the multi-profile bit is pretty fun to use - I have created some pretty interesting table edges and pieces of molding by just playing around with the height settings - since I don't have a shaper I find myself turning to this bit whenever a small piece of trim is needed. This bit set offers everything a woodworker needs to complete raised pannel doors and the addition of the multiprofile and glue joint bits make it a great deal!

This is an excellent blade and I do recommend it.It cuts clean and smooth every time.About the teflon coating reducing friction well....I use a cutting lubricant so I cant say much about that. I do know that any blade coated in this fashion is less likely to rust and that's important stuff.Don't forget to dri-cote all your blades when your finished and plan to store them. It will extend their life. Now get out there and cut something.

What a blade. The low-profile teeth are nice, as they don't hog out your expensive wood! Also, I have always been impressed with Freud's fusing of the teeth to the blade itself.

If you want a good blade, a good cut, and less of a headache... buy a Freud!

I've just started to use it and it does have the power. My only complaint is that Freud is best known for it cutting blades of all type sizes and tools including all other brands. How come I can't find the replacement blades on this site or anywhere else for that matter.

I bought this planer about 3 months ago. I have been using it to flatten pine logs after ripping them with a chain saw, even set at full depth it doesn't bog down.Good value.

I am using this saw blade on a radial arm saw. It makes excellent crosscuts on anything from 1/8" plywood to 2 x 4's. It does have a slight tendency to grab on the thicker wood. Overall I am satisfied.

I've tried a few of the [similar] range 80-tooth blades, and this one is by far the best. Don't try to compare it to the higher end blades like a Forrest Chopmaster because you will be disappointed, but for [the price], it's a keeper. For the couple of projects I've used it on, it cut smooth and left a nice surface with little sanding needed. It's also very easy to clean up with just soapy water and a brush. I'd say it's a very good blade for the money and likely the best in its class, thus the 5 stars.

Using this blade with a Delta TwinLaser miter saw, I have consistently obtained clean, splinter-free cuts. Look at the blade, however. The shot on this site depicts a 72T blade, and the rack at the home improvement store where I purchased mine also had 72T and 80T "Fine Cut Off" blades mixed together. I have the 80T blade.

Sure, it doesn't have a PTFE coating, but wiping down a blade from time to time with a bit of solvent to clean off pitch is no big task. And Freud's carbide tips are beefy and sharp. I don't anticipate any problems, having had good luck in the past with their Diablo 7.25" circular saw blades.

Freud makes the best bades for your money. I'm a custom home builder and use Freud blades exclusively for all my trim work. I've been building custom homes for 25yrs. and have tried every blade made. You can't beat Freud!

The main problem I found with the router was the poorly fitting 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch collet. Both were too large to fit standard router bits when the compression nut was in place. I had grind the hardened steel collets on a lathe ( to avoid unbalancing the rapidly turning bits) to fit. The second problem I found was that the system that controls the depth of bits is sprung to high. This makes it difficult to extend the bits without using excessive force to compress the springs. The adjustment knob, usefull for fine adjustments, also requires excessive force to turn when the springs are near full compression. Because the knob compresses only one side it will jam pulling the router out of alignment. This makes it difficult to use in a table. The final major complaint is the collet doesnot extend far enough for some short router bits. In summary inexpesive but beware of its limitations.

This is the second Freud router I have purchased. The first one I overheated. Outside the warranty period, Freud replaced it for free with no questions asked. I attended a factory representative demonstration of the router and other Freud products. The technology Freud puts into all its products is superior and worth the price. This is the only plunge router that I tried that "plunged" up and down smoothly.

This router is simply amazing. I have owned a few routers, from fixed base to plunge type, and am very pleased with this router in peticular in comparison to the others I have owned in the past. I own two of these work horses, and they never let me down. Positive features include the soft start, multiple speed for different types of router bit aplications, and micro adjustment knob. When the router is plunged and attempting to adjust with knob even further, it is a little difficult, as there is a lot of tension under the springs. However that is no set back. It performs awsome in the table I have it mounted in. I do mostly custom car audio aplications with this router, but I own cabinetry bits such as a raised panel set that this router turns amazingly. This is not your average router, and for the price, I plan on owning one more to add to my collection. Very happy with it.

I am a remodeling contractor and do a lot of cabinet and finish work.
First things first. This router fence is nice! I like the fact that I can micro adjust both sides of the fence independently. This allows for adjustment to obtain full contact of the routed work to be in solid contact with the out feed fence. The dust collection port works wonderfully. All in all, this fence is very very nice.
Secondly, I was torn between rating this product a 3 or a 5. Like many, I purchased the SH-5 prior to Freud including the adapter plates, which are needed on most router tables. Now that the plates ARE included, this is no longer an issue. I did find it quite frustrating when I first received the unit. Also, the quality control department overlooked the fact that the 1/4 -20 machine screw holes in the in feed bracket were only tapped � way thru. I found it frustrating that I had to finish the tapping of the threaded holes myself. After my anger passed, the assembly was very straightforward. Instructions are not included, but really people, they are not needed. With the above mentioned the product would qualify for a 3 star rating.... Please read on.
I routed 12" x �" x 3/8" deep slots in my table so that I could mount mini-T-tracks perpendicular to the router fence. This allows for much improved positioning of the fence to bit situation over the limited threaded screw inserts supplied. The total assembly of the t-tracks, re-tapping and assembly of the adapter plates was an hour and a half. All well worth the time spent.
I have this setup installed on my Rousseau table saw wing using a Porter Cable 890 router and a Rockler on/off switch plugged into a Craftsman Auto switch that activates my Shop Vac when I turn on the router. I made accurate and smooth passes on the Freud fence. I played a little with the out feed table and even used it to joint �" edges on finish work. The whole wing of course is removable with all the hardware attached for easy storage.
Would I buy this router fence again? Yes. Would I use it in my home workshop? Yes, IF my budget was limited and I wanted a quality manufactured router fence. This is a good solid product and I look forward to using it more.

Received fence and was very happy with craftsmanship. Took almost a month to get here but I assume that was because it was on back order. The only problem is that it did not come with Brass/SS inserts that are screwed into the table to fasten the device to the table. When I emailed Amazon.com they told me I needed to contact Freud. When I emailed Freud they never responded so I'm back to square one. I'll buy the things myself just tell me what they are called and I'll buy them.

I looked at and studied many different ad's on router fences for a router table that I made to my specs. This ajustable Freud fence is difinitely number #1. It micro ajusts to the smallest measurements so easy. I love it, and can't really say how much right here. Thanks Freud for making it. And thank you Amazon.com again for marketing it.


Gary Audet
Brandon, Vermont

....master of none. This blade has all the great aspects of a typical Freud blade - quality carbide, well built, anti-vibration slots, lifetime warranty, etc. It does alot of things reasonably well, but isn't particular strong in any regard, other than the TCG teeth are more durable than other grinds. Several of Freud's other general purpose blades crosscut better, rip more efficiently, have faster feedrates, and are generally more versatile. Being that it's full kerf, it also bogs the motor on my saw more than many others. I just can't find an application that gives this blade any advantages over others in my shop. I much prefer the LU86, LU88, and even the LU84.

It's probable that we didn't get exactly the blade that we wanted, but we got this for our Dewalt table saw and found that it cuts much slower than our previous (dull) blade and tends to burn the edge (it might be that we are out of alignment--but we didn't have that problem on the old blade and nothing has changed). It also has a very wide kerf, much bigger than we expected. If we hadn't already used it, we would have returned it and got something different.

I find this blade to do an excellent job in my table saw. I have had many Freud blades in the blast and they have all been good.

I purchased it primarily for Mortising loose tenons on my furniture work. It cuts very clean. I am using it to cut 1" deep 3/8" wide tenon stock recesses using a 5/8" template guide and patterns that I make from 3/8 plywood. I use a plunge router using the steps to cut about 1/4" each pass and it works great. Be careful and take your time when using solid carbide because they tend to break if you cut to much on a pass. I have not had a 1/2" shank break on me but 1/4" shanks have broken on me before.

This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.