Freud Reviews

Doing woodwork, two of the most asked for features in building custom cabinetry, is a bullnose finish on a front edge surface, and an antiquing bit for the edges of trim. Freud makes top drawer router bits, and this one is no exception. Leaves a very smooth surface. It is great for your three quarter inch stock.
Highly recommended.

This Freud 99-051 and 050 work as a set to give you complete sash making capabilities. My woodworking buying of equipment went into overdrive when I went into my local home center and saw how expensive it would be to replace the windows in my house. This Freud bit combination is making my intentions realizable. I made my first window sash and am ecstatic over how professional it looks. Each sash is the standard 1 3/8" thick, and has true divided light (French door style sash bars, and mullions) All done by using these two bits.
I must admit the instructions that come with the Freud bits leaves you a little dizzy. They eliminated all hand holding, and went into mechanical-arithmetic formulas for getting the job done. Then I discovered the CMT USA bit manufacturing instructions that are available at the CMTUSA.com web site under "How To" It is a lot more intuitive, whereas they give you step by step instructions. The thing about the CMT set is they are based on 5/8" of an inch spacing on one side, and 1/2" on the other. That makes for a lot of adjustment in doing the different stages. This Freud bit set, which is similar to the CMT in every way, except one. They are 9/16" on both sides, with 1/4" tongue area in the center.
You could make a casement sash with these bits, and simply build a frame to mount it in, and include the necessary configuring to allow for handles and opening mechanisms. That and a little weather-strip and you're set. This bit set also makes twin sashes for your standard double hungs. I bought a book here at Amazon called Windows and Skylights, and it went into a lot about making different style windows. Not about how to buy them, but about how to build them. Highly recommended book, listing suppliers of hardware, and the ins and outs of insulation properties of different styles. In that book the author states that using vinyl jamb liners with built in springs are preferred, and will save you a lot of time.
What I am actually going to do, is buy Honduras Mahogany, and make beautiful windows. I am looking for a good supplier of high quality solid polished brass for the locks and hardware. I could go on for hours, but this is supposed to be a review of the Freud bits, and it is.
These bits are not cheap, but if you plan on building lots of windows, and may possibly need to build more than one set, their strong carbide, and balanced, no vibration cut, will give you the quality you are looking for. It is nice to not have to sand the edges at all, or at least not very much, when they are as highly figured as these edges are.
The local largest window showroom has suggested that I carry a sample of the Mahogany creations in their showroom. I'm honored, and plan on doing that once I am confident in my own houses creations. Once you see what the truth is about the lack of true insulation properties of the common vinyl window, you will all the more want solid wood windows. Combining the insulating properties of solid wood, with the natural weather resistance of mahogany, and you have a combination that is hard to beat. I am leaning toward the single glass, and then doubling that on the inside with a removable storm panel, and tripling it with an exterior storm window. (That is a popular Pella design)
What is significantly different is with typical "insulated glass" windows, you have a vinyl shell, which conducts cold instead of insulating, and then passes that cold through the aluminum wedge that is sealed between the glass, which also transmits cold readily, on through to the inner glass, which is cold on the outer areas, and only warm on the inside center. Consequently the major window testing association, using a rating system that measures both the center of the glass on the inside, and the outside edges, and averages them. With your own wood windows, you eliminate that. In addition to Mahogany's natural wear properties (Decks are built from it without any finish put on it whatsoever) You have to look into Sikkens line of semi clear finishes. I coated my Cedar Addition with it five years ago and it looks as new right now as it did when I first applied it. It is expensive, but worth every dime.
Anyhow, get the Freud bit set, turn out your first sash, and get excited about the possibilities.

Every router bit I own is made by freud. All of their bits cut very smoothly. In fact they cut so smooth you don't even have to sand. This bit gives a very nice edge to you're raised panel doors. It is weel worth the money.

This is my first rail/stile bit sit I've ever used. I mounted the inside bit first (I don't even know which one! The one that makes the groove for the panel...), milled up a couple of pieces of white oak test pieces. Using my jig for my raise panel bit (which is basically a fence, and 1/2" board, which raises the piece above my router table top. I need this because the opening for these bits in my router are not large enough...) I eyeballed the height for the bit. Ran the piece though, PERFECT on the first pass. No burning, no tearout. Perfect.

Replaced the bit with its complement, eyeballed the height, and using a square long board, ran the rail through holding it tight against the guide board. It ran though fine, but the height was slightly off. One adjustment later, I ran it through again, and again the fit was PERFECT!

I highly recommend this set.

if you do an type of woodworking this is a must have tool excellant quality great for duplicating angles or cuts easily tranfer an angle of a roof pitch or to keep your cuts uniform...just a great tool you will always wonder how you did without this one in your shop.1001 uses

I just bought 6 of these bushings to recycle a 1" arbor dado set I have from a previous saw for use on my new Delta table saw. I was skeptical about stacking these things, but they worked great! The dado ran true and round with no wobble or vibration. The only problem I had with these bushings was that the fit is rather tight. I needed to tap them into the 1" hole on the dado blades, then "work" them on to the saw arbor. Once they were on the arbor, the center hole loosened enough for easy blade removal, except for 1 bushing that was still a little too tight. I guess a tight fit is better than a loose one for something like this, so I believe they will be fine. Once the bushings were on the blades, they remained in place. To remove them I had to place the blade on a block with a space under it, and tap the bushing. My summary is that they do exactly what they say they will do, adapt a 1" saw blade to a 5/8" arbor without any performance loss.

Used this Freud C400 knive set to replace the OEM knives in my Ridgid (Home Depot) 6" jointer. They fit and perform perfectly--plus Amazon's price for these knives can't be beat!

I have placed several orders for these knives, two sets each order. They only seem to keep one set in stock so it takes some time to receive the blades. I just wish that I could order a few sets and have them shipped sooner, a service issue not a product issue. The knives are great and at this price it does not pay to have them re-sharpen, just buy new.

I was just working with a framer who had this blade on this Mag 77 and I was stunned at how fast this blade cut through wood. It's hard to believe that a blade could make that much difference. All cuts with this blade were effortless. We ripped a 6"x10"x12' beam on the 6" side. You would have thought we had just used a table saw. This is a sweet blade.

this is an outstanding blade. I have tried many blades in my Big foot saw and this is by far the best.