Porter-Cable Reviews

When I first bought my Bosch 3727DVS, I bought a box of the popular grades; 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, and 320. The 100, 120, and 150 are the most frequently used.To tell you the truth, I rarely use the 320. I just went through over 50 boards of 80+ inch cedar, in three grades, and I only used about 10 sheets all combined. That is about 3 for each grade. The advantage to quality paper, is that you can get in a groove with some consistency. Instead of having cheaper paper that gives you the new disc agressiveness, then quickly to the used paper smoothness, which may be a grade finer, and miss the deeper lines from the coarser grade of paper in the previous step. Additionally the backing paper is stiff enough to do the job. That way you don't wind up with a buggered edge on your sander. The 6 hole paper is nice for the dust free environment. I simply attach a 2 1/2" vac hose to the dust port on my Bosch, which is way smaller than that, so a lot of air escapes. The vacuum draw that leaks around the inlet, sucks up that last 1% of the dust coming off the paper. It is still recommended to wear a mask because the shop vacs only capture to a micron or so. So technically you have a vac system that is actually a mini-part of a micron, invisible dust manufacturing plant. Over time, even that is a consideration. A good respirator, not a paper mask is advisable. A fresh air system is even better.
I had a body shop for 20 years, and after using the cheaper paper on the random orbit sanders, and winding up with a floor full of used paper, I can attest to the savings of using quality, aluminum oxide paper. It is actually cheaper, in addition to doing a better job. Highly recommended.

When I first bought my Bosch 3727DVS, I bought a box of the popular grades; 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, and 320. The 100, 120, and 150 are the most frequently used. The 180 takes it a step higher. The 220 produces the glass smooth look. To tell you the truth, I rarely use the 320. Local home centers sell the 5" variety, so if you are enjoying the additional cutting surface of a 6 inch, this is one of the best places to stock up.
I just went through over 50 boards of 80+ inch cedar, in three grades, and I only used about 10 sheets all combined. That is about 3 for each grade. The advantage to quality paper, is that you can get in a groove with some consistency. Instead of having cheaper paper that gives you the new disc agressiveness, then quickly to the used paper smoothness, which may be a grade finer, and miss the deeper lines from the coarser grade of paper in the previous step. Additionally the backing paper is stiff enough to do the job. That way you don't wind up with a buggered edge on your sander. The 6 hole paper is nice for the dust free environment. I simply attach a 2 1/2" vac hose to the dust port on my Bosch, which is way smaller than that, so a lot of air escapes. The vacuum draw that leaks around the inlet, sucks up that last 1% of the dust coming off the paper. It is still recommended to wear a mask because the shop vacs only capture to a micron or so. So technically you have a vac system that is actually a mini-part of a micron, invisible dust manufacturing plant. Over time, even that is a consideration. A good respirator, not a paper mask is advisable. A fresh air system is even better.
I had a body shop for 20 years, and after using the cheaper paper on the random orbit sanders, and winding up with a floor full of used paper, I can attest to the savings of using quality, aluminum oxide paper. It is actually cheaper, in addition to doing a better job. Highly recommended.

These fuel cells are great! They are a great value for the benefit they afford: namely portable power nailing without a compressor. The only drawback I have found to these fuel cells is that you must remove them if you will not be using your Bammer for an extended period of days/weeks. If you do not, all of the fuel will slowly seep out and your fuel cell will be empty when you next need it!

And speaking of the nail gun itself, I have owned a Porter-Cable "Bammer" for about five years now and I remain well pleased with its performance. I am a do-it-yourselfer primarily using the nailer for basic home remodeling and woodworking in my garage shop. I have used mine to hang all types of moldings and casings throughout my house and friends' houses, as well as to attach moldings to furniture projects in the shop. The worst "problem" I have ever had with this nail gun is a feed/jam, which was easily cleared (it has only happened once or twice).

Bottom Line: If you read and follow the instructions, and take your time with this tool, I see no reason why you cannot have as much success with it as I have.

Still have this drill for sentimental reasons, 1st "real drill" I have owned. Low speed of 350rpm is excellent for driving screws. Powerful for a 12volt, I actually drove timberlock screws w/ it(do not do this as it drove 3-4 timberlock screws on a charge but this ultimately led to early battery pack failure, but it was strong enough to do this w/o prdriiling holes, I know better now, I reach for my milw lok tor 18volt drill for timberlocks). Great balance and feel. Built a deck w/it, but had problems w/gears that was fixed under warranty. Still use it on occasion.

I bought this blade to replace a dulling Oldham 60-tooth that kicked back so badly that it deflected the blade far enough out that the teeth caught and jammed on the blade guard. Thankfully, I can still count to 10 with my hands...

I was skeptical of the variable tooth design and the miraculous claims, but it was reasonably priced and the salesman recommended it so I gave it a shot. I expected it to be a compromise blade: not cut as smoothly as an 80-tooth, or be able to chew through lumber like a 24-tooth.

Now I'll concede that it is much sharper than the old blade, but I have to say that I think the claims are accurate. It's made very clean cuts, rapidly chews through 4 x 4's, and it's actually quieter than the old blade (which rang like a bell).

I've only had it for a month, but I'm very satisfied so far. With the carbide teeth, I expect to get about the same life out of it as I've gotten with other carbide blades.

The only downside of this blade is that it cannot easily be re-sharpened (because of the variable spacing/angles). But I'm more of a "Harry Homeowner" than an "Al Borland", so I can afford to just toss it and get a new one when it wears out in a few years.

The 120 tooth blade handles 1/2 inch Russian Birch plywood like a laser through butter. I use the blades exclusively in cabinet making and find that this 4 1/2 blade is the best for clean precise cuts. Always remember to score your cuts with a utility knife first and there is virtually no rip out.If you are cutting plexiglass or plastics always use a sharp and very clean blade. Cleaning with one of the new 'orange' based producsts is best.
Remember to unplug the saw when doing any adjustments.

I picked up this blade on clearance somewhere for $20 if I remember correctly, and now I see just how great a deal it was since they're listed here for $75. I use the blade in my 5000rpm Ryobi miter saw (which is a great saw). The two combined are fantastic and I've been very happy with the performance and results of the blade. As it says-- it makes fast cuts but also makes them nice and smooth. Just keep in mind if you purposely jam it hard into the wood it'll cut seriously fast but might have a little bit of tear on soft woods. Cutting just a bit slower will still be plenty fast but give great results on finish and framing lumber.

In the 12100P Drum and Spacer Kit - Is the 2" diameter rubber spindle also included? Your price $$$

These PorterCable recip saw blades are good at cutting things other than metal. I have used them successfully with my cordless PC Tiger Saw to cut through very tough woods like oak and aged, time hardened rafters in the attic of my 1930's vintage home. The fine teeth produces smooth cuts in plywood and pressed board, too. They are great for cutting through nails on the ends of studs during demolition work. That way, you can remove the wood without ruining it and reuse it in the job later. I always carry a pack of these blades in my tool tote.

These blades mow through drywall before you can even think about it, leaving clean, straight, cuts. They cut off drywall nails, and wooden baseboard, too. I used them to cut a doorway into a room addition with a cordless PorterCable Tiger saw (see review) and I was done in no time. Great blades!!