Porter-Cable Reviews

One problem people have with the Porter-Cable router base is that the hole in the base is too small to accept some of the larger diameter bits that are now available. The hole in this base is larger than the hole in the standard base. However, the Porter-Cable bushings that work so well are fitted for the standard base opening.

It might as well be said that if you are at the skill level where you are using a router you are at the skill level where you can make this yourself. All that is needed is some 1/4 inch thick plexiglass and the ability to drill and countersink three holes. Get this if you want to avoid the hassle of making your own custom base.

Didn't take long after the purchase of my PC router that the base included would not do the job. Standard base would not accept a �" round over bit. I thought about enlarging the hole someway but thought it might leave some burrs that would mark my wood. New base was the only solution. The base plate accepts the larger router bits I sometimes use just fine. The added bonus to the base plate is its clear design. This is a good plus when using the router as you can precisely get the bit on the wood by eyesight.

Clear router base plates should be standard on all routers produced IMHO.

I have made up my mind never to use 1/4" shank bits again. This posed a problem in that many 1/2" bits won't fit through the standard sub base. The large sub base permits easy bit changes, allows for the use of larger bits, and the clear plastic makes seeing the progress of your work much easier than the solid black standard sub base. In fact I purchased an extra base, the D-handle, installed the 2 1/2" sub base, and in combination, I've never routed edges and dadoes with such ease. Highly Recommended.

Although all the pictures depict the flashlight with a battery be fore warned it does not come with one, I little misleading I would say.

I have owned two 12v Porter-Cable drills, two 12v Porter-Cable flashlights & four 12v Porter-Cable Ni-Cad batteries for over 10 years, all of which work fine to this day. Because the batteries are Ni-Cad, they need to be completely discharged before being recharged in order to carry an effective load. So there's a gap between their effectiveness in the drill & their readiness for charging. How to drain the remaining charge?

That's where the flashlight comes in. It will actually stay quite bright for many hours, days even, on the remaining charge, but if you're in a hurry, just leave the light on until the battery is completely dead.

I have never had an unusable drill in all that time and when my wife & I take our dogs out for walks at night, the flashlights are powerful, flexible & comfortable to use.

Last not least we've saved several hundred dollars in unbought throwaway batteries.

I don't think I'd buy this by itself. You need a battery, and flashlights are pretty cheap. I like my Snake Light (Black & Decker) a lot. However, I bought a 12 V Porter Cable drill set with 2 batteries and charger so thought I might like the flashlight. Glad I bought it. This flashlight fits in the drill case. It is very nice having a heavy duty flashlight that uses the spare battery. Having it in the case is very convenient and makes lots of home repairs work well with the excellent task lighting that you get.

The flashlight stands well on the battery base. The head swivels, and the switch is protected by a rubber membrane that will keep construction grime out.

I am a full-time carpenter.

This is a professional quality drill/driver, with metal gears, heavy-duty trigger switch, ratcheting chuck with carbide teeth. It has heft and although some might complain about its weight, anything that generates over 400 in. lbs. of torque and doesn't fall apart after 40 hrs. of hard use HAS to weigh something, right?

I read an April 2005 review on 'premium' vs. 'homeowner' grade cordless drills and was interested to see that in nearly every photo of a disemboweled premium drill, said premium drill was the Porter-Cable. It's built to last.

Here's what to watch out for:

1) If you charge the batteries, then don't use them for a few days, your amp hours will be far lower than if you charge the batteries and use them the same day. I don't get quite as much run time out of the batteries as I would like, but I am doing mean things to my drill, like running a 3/4" x 16" masonry bit in hammer/drill mode and leaning into the poor little drill, driving 1/2" x 12" lag screws into pressure-treated wood, drilling holes through 20 oz. copper and tin in -5˚ weather....and so on. When used for what I imagine is a more appropriate application, like driving sheetrock screws into sheetrock, the batteries last long enough for me to wonder when they'll die so I can take five.

2) The HIGH/LOW switch. Works great, but one day I somehow left it in between settings: i.e., in the middle, not on HIGH or LOW, and the drill made a horrendous racket and would not drive anything to save its life. Convinced the drill was completely shot, I began hunting for the case so I could take it back to Home Depot and give them puppy dog eyes. At some point I noticed that the switch was not engaged in either range, flicked it to LOW and all was right with my world again.

3) Despite the all-metal chuck with carbide jaws, things still fall out of it ocassionally. This and the less-than-an-18v battery time warrants fours stars instead of five. Yes, I really crank on the chuck when tightening a bit. For a 14.4 volt drill that I bought new at Home Depot for $100, I'd give it five stars with no caveats. (Home Depot was discontinuing the line and I got lucky).

A few +s you might not know about:
The drill has an automatic brake, so when you take your finger off the switch the chuck comes to a complete stop. The onboard bit storage is not a gimmick and gets constant use (I usually have a #3 Phillips and square drive bits onboard and a #2 Phillips in the chuck, covering 95% of all driving applications). The charger is a diagnostic, 'smart-charger,' which means it knows to NOT charge when the battery is too cold, too hot, or just plain worn out (haven't seen that yet). And, unlike cheaper drills, there is more heavy-weight copper in this tool than a jug of pennies.

Note: Treat yourself to a DeWalt, Ryobi, Sears--whatever-- quick-release 1/4" bit chuck. You chuck it in the drill and leave it in. Then, use the drill bits, Phillips drivers, etc. that have the notched speed shank and changing bits is lightning-fast--much faster than ratcheting the drill's chuck. I have the DeWalt (because it's bright yellow and I can find it if I drop it, not because it's a DeWalt) and it's been great.

That's about it. This drill has enough torque to sprain your wrist, snap heads off stainless steel deck screws, drive 1.5" spade bits through mahogany, and push big masonry bits into concrete (although using said bits in hammer mode really drained the power, and fast). It won't replace my 1/2" Milwaukee corded drill completely but the Porter Cable is what I reach for 90% of the time. If $ is no object, get the Milwaukee Lok-Tor 18v; it has received top reviews from several trade magazines and will drill more holes on a charge than the Porter-Cable, being 18 volts vs. 14.4. If its chuck is the same as on my corded Milwaukee it holds like a pit bull on a mailman.

I received the drill kit today but haven't had a chance to put it through its paces. I will update this review later with my impressions. The drill seems solidly built, and comes packed in a nice blow-molded plastic case with metal latches. The case is black and has Porter-Cable in bright white "Steal me, I'm expensive!" lettering.

The drill body weighs approx 4.2lbs. With battery pack installed, approx 5.8lbs. The drill measures approx 10-3/4" from the tip of the chuck to the back of the motor shell, and 9-1/2" from the top of the housing to bottom of the battery pack. The pack is the widest part of the assembly and is about 3" wide. The drill is labeled "Assembled in Taiwan." The main label on my drill was a bit scuffed. The included screwdriver bit had come loose during shipping and probably caused the scuffing.

The torque selection ring and gear shift are very stiff but seem to engage positively. When set to hammer mode, the hammer action occurs only when downward pressure is put on the bit. I was expecting a mini jackhammer, but the effect is much more subtle, as if the spindle was riding on detents. There is a separate Drill setting on the ring which bypasses the slip clutch. The ratcheting chuck is made by Rohm and has a very solid metal feel.

The battery release button is somewhat awkward to use. I think it's designed to be released with the pinky finger, but the position and motion are somewhat awkward. The button is flush with the housing to prevent accidental release. The battery slides back to release. The forward/reverse selector can also be placed in the center position to lock the trigger. I suggest doing so before fumbling with the battery or holstering the drill.

I have medium-small hands and found the difference between the 3 GTF inserts to be minor. I selected the medium insert. The inserts are secured by a phillips screw. I think it would be nicer to have inserts with different softness and texture instead. All of the inserts are hard rubber. A sticky gel-like insert might be nice, especially when using the hammer.

The kit includes a threaded side handle which can be installed perpendicularly on either side of the drill just in front of the trigger. The handle is hollow plastic and the threaded portion is zinc-plated metal. The plastic seems a little thin and I would not put my full weight on it during use.

The drill emits a noticeable high pitched noise at low speeds. The manual says that this sound is normal. One feature that my corded drill has is a knob that lets me select the maximum allowable speed. I find it useful and wish that this drill had that feature. The brake works well and stops the chuck as soon as I release the trigger.

The carry case holds the charger, extra battery pack, and side handle. It holds the drill with the pack installed. There is also a compartment for the manual and the GTF inserts. On the lid above the charger, there is a compartment for holding a bit set. The bit compartment has a hinged plastic lid. It is not very deep, but would probably hold one small bit set in its case.

The charger can also charge Porter-Cable 12V batteries. It has keyholes on the back for wall mounting, and a 2-prong power cord. It gets a little warm during charging, but will charge a pack in about an hour. It also has diagnostic features to warn you if the battery is too hot, too cold, or needs replacement. On first use, the charger emitted a strong, plastic odor.

The packs appear to be rebuildable. The top is secured by a set of torx screws, and is available as a spare part. It is a 2 Amp hour NiCd pack. There are 3rd party services that can rebuild it with higher capacity NiMH cells. People also seem to be buying these kits for the packs and chargers and selling the drills as new.

UPDATE: I've been using it to drive Phillips wood screws into aged pine and it is more than powerful enough. In fact, I need to get ACR bits to lessen the stripping of the screw heads. It is a big heavy drill though. I opted for a small tool tote that has a built in drill holster and shoulder strap. It does not have a lanyard loop or anything else that I can easily attach a tether to, and it is too heavy for hanging off the belt and pants.

I have been a remodeling contractor in California since 1979. My crew and I have managed to break or ware out every make of battery drill since then.

This is a real tough drill, with a decent Hammer drill mode , and good batteries and charger that last. Unlike Dewalt. Have droped it a bunch of times and haven't managed to break it in three years, unlike my last Hitachi. I have only had to replace the latches ( with steel ones ) on the case after the plastic ones wore out.

The longest I have ever been able to keep a battery drill is five years, and that was with buying new batteries and a charger.

So we give this one a two thumbs up.

I've been searching for a portable compressor for a couple of months now and near the end came up with three to chose from: the Emglo 55155, a Hitachi dual stack and this PC.

After looking at the reviews here, elsewhere and comments from a friend about his Emglo, I decided to go with the 2540S. My requirements were portability (60 lbs or so), oil lubed, at least 4.0 SCFM @ 90 PSI so I can use some automotive tools as well. Other compressors did meet these, but what draw me was the oil lube system that permits you to use it on uneven surfaces. This should be the norm! Other good things are excellent build (USA), non-ball type draincock (ice can ruin a brass ball), pressure release valve (to lower the pressure before you open draincock that can shoot projectiles), caged, not too bad noise level about 83 dbA (noisy street), lower running 1.3HP (2.5max) to not trip the circuit breakers, filtered intake (not output though) for longer motor life, shrouded motor for airflow from fan and good manual. Whoa! not bad at all.

Well, all is not well. The regulator unit is actually the weak link here, made of plastic and from Taiwan. Mine leaked just like the last reviewer had, so I opened it from the front and saw that the valves inside weren't centered to each other. The small metal cup also bit part of the plastic grommet retainer. Fixed all those, put a little non-petroleum lubed and it worked. Well I had to fix mine so I can work that day. The only thing I added at the universal coupler end is a water/air filter. It's at an angle but removable. It's been good so far. Hope this helps.

So far I'm really impressed with this compressor. I've run the unit 3-4 times the past 6 weeks, shot 200+ nails and have had zero problems. It takes about 65 seconds to charge from empty and 12 seconds to recharge when in use. I can get about 40 shots from a brad nailer and 10-12 shots from a finish nailer between charges. The handle does make it fairly easy to transport, but it is still heavy so I recommend buying a second hose to reach the work instead of moving the compressor. The motor is quiet in relation to other compressors I've heard. I can work next to it while it runs and my ears don't ring. The pressure gauges are easy to read and the pressure adjustment knob is simple to use.

after you read the directions follow the break in procedure. add the oil before you fire it up. open the tank drain and run it for 20 mins with the tank drain open to break it in. then close the drain. after i used it to inflate some tires on various pieces of equipment i shot 25 or so narrow crown staples into some oak, no problems ( at 100lbs on the regulator. always check your equipment for the proper pressure). then to check the presure gauges i left the tanks fill. tank gauge read 155 lbs. regulator 145. i'm not sure why there is a difference, but the regulator control when it seem to be turned all the way to where it's tight, can still be rotated which i did until i reached 145lbs at the regulator. however, i stopped at 145lbs so that i didn't break it. hope this is helpful.

I live in Brooklyn, MI and recently purchased a "reconditioned" Porter Cable RN175A roofing nailgun. It shipped quickly, looked brand-new and worked perfect. I needed it right away to roof a 16 square house and it did the job great! No jams-- I mean zero.Maybe 2 nails out of the whole roof needed to be hit down. However, I agree that a case would be nice.

I own 5 different types of air nailers from Bostich, Porter Cable, and Senco and this nailer is by far the best. It is easy to load and use, never jams, reasonably priced, and is not too heavy. In other words it is perfect. It makes those dreadful roofing projects just a little more tolerable.

Executive Summary: Just buy it. It works very well!

Story: I started a small project over the Holiday weekend and got way in over my head. I only had a small 160 square foot edition to re-roof. After a three layer tear off, rotted decking and two days of prep work I was ready to give up. I went to Home Depot and purchased the least expensive gun they had (this Porter Cable for $228). I was able to nail 2/3 of the roof in two hours with no issues.

Tech Specs: I used a Porter Cable Dual Stack compressor set at 105 PSI and 100 feet of hose. I set the gun to the shallowest depth drive and it had more than enough force.

These are functional, but not very tough. They seem to be a little softer than some other brads I have used, which lets them deflect fairly easily at this long length. Therefore, keep your fingers out of range! They do hold well and are difficult to remove if you make a boo-boo.

I used these in a Senco brad nailer to install 3/4" cedar in a walk in closet as well as to install 2400 square feet of 3/4" pine v-groove in the ceiling of my dome home and they worked perfectly. Although I tried to avoid knots there were some situations where I had no choice but to go through them and the brads worked fine when using the turbo setting. I have a finish nailer and a pin nailer as well and B&C Eagle is the only brand I use because I know for a fact that when I use them there will not be any problems.

Just finished the casing on the closet door frames in my daughters' room. These were flawless in my Accuset 200BN.
Never a jam with the 2" brads or the 1 1/4" brads!

I have several PC drills/tools that work fine; however, this driver leaks oil/lubricant. I returned it to our area's PC repair facility in Maryland and they could not correct the problem. Their conclusion was that I had to live with it. Neither a cleanly operating tool nor good service. Fortunately, this has been an exception albeit a miserable one. Disappointing to say the least.

I have had this driver for several years and use it for hanging sheetrock as well as decking screws. It has been easy to use, easy to adjust the depth and reliable.

The only thing it doesn't do well is set screws to the correct depth on an inside corner - the body hits the wall, and keeps the bit from coming straight down. The same problem would happen on any similar tool. All it means is that a few screws will have to be set by hand with a regular screw gun.

There are a few models on the market that have a faster RPM, but they aren't recommended for decks; just drywall. This one, at 2,500 RPM is plenty fast for me.

If you are just hanging a few sheets, it may not be worth spending the money, but if you hang much drywall, it'll save you lots of time.

Anything you set out to accomplish with this baby is a zip. The 2500 rpms are more than enough to drive screws up to 3 inches with no prob into rafters, decking, and drywall. The depth setter is accurate, and allows for proper penetration into drywall. Grip provides comfort, and the belt clip seems durable, and hasn't broke yet, (as it has on my Dewalt). I always reach for this one... get it?

I actually have two of these saws at my disposal and one of them is great, the other i have had trouble with the quick change mechanism. Both saws have lots of power and can tackle any project they are assigned to. They have no problem cutting fiberglass or metal with the correct blades. My only gripe is that the quick change on one saw will not unlock sometimes and when you finally get the blade in it, it doesnt lock: it can be a little finicky. Power to spare and then some- however porter could also work on some better in-box blade storage for longer blades. The milwaukee sawzall seems to have it all down pat- after all they are the original manufacturer of reciprocating saws.

I had one of these for several years without the rotating handle. When it was stolen recently I replaced it with this one. It feels very well made and you can see the fit and finish quality when you hold the tool. It is powerful enough to use a 9 inch blade through 2x8 silt plates. The rotating handle snaps into position at 90-degree angles but can be used in-between angles as well. When I did not have a rotating handle, I did not ask for one, but now that I have it, I find that it is very comfortable. The orbital action is effective and it does not disengage under pressure. The no-tool blade changing mechanism works well. The only negative, which is not enough for me to give this saw a lesser score, is that when you stop cutting if the blade stops in a retracted position the blade changing ring may be too hard to reach. I find that pulling the trigger again solves this issue. If you are changing blades every few minutes you could find this annoying. Overall this is a great saw. If this one gets stolen, I would buy a third one.

UPDATED I purchased a PC drill a couple of months ago (see my reviews) and am so happy with that I purchased a PC tiger saw (reciprocating, whatever). I use this a lot at work when I install new heaters, I cut through a lot of PVC pipe and brass pipe. I really like how you can rotate the handle, makes things a little more comfortable. The only things I would change is the fact you only get one blade, $150 saw with one blade. I solved that quickly with the dewalt variety pack that came with a nice case. UPDATE I have put this thing through hell and it is just fine. A couple of things I would change is to have the blade change system more like the true Milwakee Sawzall and that the button to remove the shoe wasn't so stiff. I use my boss's Mil. Sawzall all of the time and it is great but I hve notice the PC cuts the bigger jobs a little easier.

For the money this gun is a great additon to your home tool collection. I have used it to build several decks and sheath my roof, and found it worth every cent. Unfortunately, I would not recommend this gun for commercial use. Compared to some of the other guns is is very light weight and modestly build.

I just recieved my nailer and I am very pleased with the product. I would suggest it to anyone, no matter if you are a weekend handyman or a pro. The only draw back is finding the nails locally, but don't worry amazon carries the nails and you can recieve them in less than a week of ordering them.

If you are looking for a solid tool at a reasonable price, look no further. I have read many reviews of the FR350K varying from very positive to very negative. The negative reviews usual center around frequent jams. I can tell you my personal experience with this tool has been very positive. I have used the tool for only a short while (around 1000 nails) and have yet to have a jam. I have tried two different brands of 2 2/8" nails and one 3 1/2" brand without problems (neither was Porter-Cable). My one negative comment would be that with the standard trigger it is very easy to double fire. Now, this does not mean it has a hair trigger, simply that if you keep your finger on the trigger a little too long, it will fire another nail. Porter-Cable does offer a free restrictive trigger (I haven't ordered it yet) so I kept my rating a 5 star. I also have not had any major issues with oil spraying all over. You will notice a small amount of oil around the exhaust, but short of over oiling the tool, it should not cause any issues. The bundle is a great deal too. The 50' hose is of top quality and makes this already good value a great value. Lastly, this tool is made and backed by a top name in tools: Porter-Cable.

worked fine no jams. best for toe nailing. length will penetrate and stick out through doubled 2x lumber so if that's an issue go for 3" nails. eye proteciton is a must as plastic collating flies in every direction and is sharp. you'll find out if you kneel on a piece by accident like i did. you do save on bulk purchase though as a 4,000 nail box of similar nails is around $45.00 at home depot(less than half the price).

If you have a Porter Cable FR350, for some reason finding nails can be a slight problem. The mega home store with the orange sign has them, but not consistently. So these are a good stop-gap until you can find more.

They drive well and seem to hold well.

I have used these in an old Senco gun that I get to borrow once in a while. I have never had a jam or feed problem with them. They are a plain shank, but are glue coated. The heat generated by the friction of driving them in at a rapid rate sets the glue and makes them difficult to pull without a longer prybar. You can get them out with a claw hammer, but I always like the easy way - a cat's paw to start and a 30" prybar to finish the job. That's the long way of saying these nails have some real holding power. Try a box on your next big project.