Porter-Cable Reviews

I purchased this combo about three years ago when I started an addition project on our house. The drill is an excellent tool however the saw leaves much to be desired. There is not enough battery to power the saw. I have four batteries for this saw and it takes all of them to do a small project. I mainly have Porter Cable tools and have been very satisfied with them. If you want a cordless saw don't buy the 14.4 volt. I have used an 18 volt saw and they run circles around this one. My guess is the 19.2 would be a good choice. I did not buy the 19.2 because I already had two batteries and I thought four 14.4 batteries would work as well. My mistake.

I've used two other drill/saw combos: Porter-Cable's 19-volt, and deWalt's 14.4-volt. This combo (14.4 drill/saw) is far and away the best combination of power, weight, price, and convenience. Drill is well-balanced, has two molded bit storage slots. Sounds and feels tight and solid, w/ good trigger response. Motor is smooth and powerful, drives half-inch holes in 2xs without a pause. The 1/2" chuck is great, and it works: grabs and holds bits tight. The P-C 19v. drill is essentially the same tool, but w/ the bigger battery not as balanced and much heavier--more than I'd want to use all day. The re-designed deWalt XP drill is an improvement over earlier deWalts, but it has significant gear lash and I found it frustrating to use. The forward/reverse switch is too near the handgrip. When I picked up the tool my knuckles pushed the switch into neutral or reverse. (Also: only one bit slot-and I'm using both square and Phillips, so what to do with the one not in use?) The P-C 14.4v. saw is heavier than the deWalt saw, but it's got a slightly larger blade and it's still easy to use, even one-handed-on scaffolding (where the cordless is unmatched) or the shop, where I reach for it now in preference to the big corded saw. Saw cuts smoothly everything I've put to it--3/4" CDX to 2x12s. Great blade, too. I've found P-C stuff in general tough and durable. Drill has been used hard (and dropped off scaffolding) and still sounds and works like new. The P-C combo case is bulky and bigger than it has to be, but hey.

It took well over a week to arrive after ordering. The laser was checked out today. The remote, the speed of rotation and the out of level LED work fine. The unit is a bit bulky. When checked against a level line, the dot feature was dead on at distance of 30 feet. I can't say the same for the 'line' generating feature. The line (ie., dot series) was off level by 3/16 inch at 30 feet.
The 'line' has a tilt to it and apparently does not self level but rather has to be manually repositioned within the +/- 10 degree range according to the manual. This to me defeats the idea of a self leveling device. The is apparently no way to recalibrate the line feature as can the dot. The problem lies within the internal optics.

I picked this up on Ebay at a great price. Unit arrived perfect and worked perfect. I tried the setup procedure and it was out 1/4" over 100 feet. I adjusted it per Porter Cables instructions and it is dead-on level over 100 feet now. The remote is perfect for a single person to rotate the beam to where they want. Just be aware that this unit does not constantly spin like some do. You rotate it once so the unit will "find" level and from there, you rotate the dot until it appears on the spot you desire. The line projection feature (a mirror that bounces the beam into a series of dots) is a little inaccurate so I never use it. It works excellent and is very accurate. I have used it for about 3 or 4 months now and am very pleased. I have rechecked it for level and it is still dead-on. I have done foundation work (a real time saver for that) and a lot of interior work and it works great.

At one time I had planned to stock my shop with all PC tools, now they can all sit on the shelf next to Black and Decker. This router has difficult ergonomics, difficult bit changing, and the variable speed controller malfunctions, reducing power. PC really made a lemon with this one. I own a PC belt sander, orbital sander, jig saw, and this router. Only the small orbital sander has not suffered electronic maladies.

I spent a good chunk of change on this router 2-3 years ago. It got great reviews at the time.

I am a weekend woodworker and I take good care of my tools. With high price, light use and good maintenance I was repaid with this:

1. Motor lost at least half of its power within 2 years. Has trouble cutting small dadoes in poplar. Problem may be related to the known issue with the switch on the handle, but I don't really care to find out, especially since PC has discontinued it. I only use it to round over edges in soft wood now.

2. The knob that pins the depth setting rod failed totally. I am not King Kong or anything, but even my casual use was too much for this feeble part. Now it is impossible to set a plunge setting.

I have had good experiences with PC in the past, but my experience with this product makes it impossible for me to pay a premium for that name brand, at least for the foreseeable future. Will wait to see whether this was a fluke or an indicator of things to come.

I just found the Hitachi M12V and have ordered it to replace this miserable unit. Funny that it is a much more powerful machine and cheaper today than what I originally paid for the 7529. Live and learn.

I have to agree with many of the other reviewers who like this router for its smoothness, power,and low noise level. The grips are great, it plunges nicely, and the quality of materials seems top rate. However, my experience with this router has revealed two flaws that greatly detract from what would otherwise be a truly fine machine. While these flaws are not necessarily deal-breakers, those of you who are considering buying this tool may want to be aware of them.

First, as another reviewer has pointed out, it is impossible to accurately center template guides within the base plate. The user must screw the template guide holder into the baseplate, and since the holder does not precisely register into the baseplate, it is thus extremely difficult to accurately center the guides. If you use template guides and require even a moderate degree of accuracy, this flaw is a deal-breaker. Do not buy this router. On the other hand, if you never use template guides or plan on parking this baby in a router table, you'll have no problems. This would be a fine router for those purposes.

The other problem is another quality/design issue that can be remedied but is a moderate annoyance. On my machine, the release/locking lever for the plunge mechanism came loose on several occassions, making it impossible to plunge and lock the router at a desired depth. There is a small set screw in the lever mechanism that works loose and has to be constantly tightened and adjusted. This problem is not an isolated incident as it also has occured with two other cabinetmakers and their identical routers in my shop. In the end, having tired of constantly fiddling with our machines, the three of us adjusted the mechanisms as best we could, applied Lock-Tite to the set screws, and hoped we did it right because there would be no way to disassemble the levers once the Lock-Tite cured. Fortunately, the fix worked fine, and all three of us are happily using our machines without any problems. Again, not a deal-breaker and the problem was fixed, but this seems unnecessary for a $200 router.

The other router to consider in this price range is the DeWalt DW625 3 HP plunge router. Though it has more power than the PC 8529, it is the same size and weight. It's also variable speed and would be great in a router table. I've never been a huge DeWalt fan (many of their products seem overrated and overpriced), this seems to be an excellent machine. Several of the guys in my shop own them and use them for the dual purposes of plunge operations as well as major hogging through lots of material (the extra hp makes a big difference). Add it to your list of possibilities.

but it *can* be made useful...I bought my PC router and table kit new (including the floor stand that is not included here) and materials to make the table top and fence useful. I threw the aluminum top and the dippy "fence" away and salvaged the remaining pieces for reuse with a shop-made top and fence. TIP: Buy the PC 69x router combo kit (fixed & plunge) but build your own table and fence.

I've had this router work station for about 8 months now. I've probably only logged about an hour of run time on it and have encountered several problems. Shortly after I started to use it, the power switch fell out of the cover. I looked by this thinking that porter cable is known for good quality. The switch still won't stay in. After about the 3rd time of using it, it got stuck in one of the bases and I spent several hours trying to remove it. It's only done that once, but it was so frustrating to deal with at a time I needed to use it. The plunge base has moved on me a couple of times while running, like it doesn't stay locked into place. Most recently, It started to make some noise while running it. I began to notice small pieces of plastic falling out of the cover. I removed the cover and found that the 'Plastic' fan on the motor arbor had completely sheered all of it's fins off. I also noticed a piece of wood in with them. Obviously, a small sliver of wood had fallen in the motor(because there's no protection from this while in the table) and removed all of the cooling fins on the fan. Now, I need it again, and I must send off to be repaired. I know that industry is moving to a lighter and cheaper way to make things, but plastic in some things is just not durable and reliable. It may just be me having all of these problems, but I just simply haven't had much luck with this setup. The table is extremely shakey, it works, but I would rather use a home made one rather than this. The table is definitly not worth the money. I like the ergonimics of porter cable, but I'm honestly not completely sold yet on quality of their new products.

This is my fifth router. I bought it for the small and light jobs. Router is impressive. Table is rock solid. fence may need improvement, but acceptable, and I entend to "fine tune it". When you do the calculation, I got the table and the fence for [a low price] What a deal!
Thanks Amazon, Thanks Porter- Cable.

I have 5 doors to install. I did one and this template and bit are not going to make it all the way.
1) Flimsy tabs on the insert pieces. It's just a matter of time before they break.
2) The insert pieces don't sit flush in the template. They stick up 1/8". It makes your router base ride against the two inserts that stick up. At the two edges of the cut your 6" router base will "fall" off the insert pieces and cause a gouge in the wood. You need to buy a larger router base so this doesn't happen.
3) Poor instructions
4) Bit wears out quickly

I don't expect this type of product from Porter Cable. I am going to return it.

I found that a small, low-horsepower router or laminate trimmer works best with this plastic template. You have to be very, very deliberate in setting it up and you have to pay close attention to your router's cutting depth so as not to set the hinge too shallow or too deep but once you get it set up correctly, it works surprisingly well. Practice, practice, practice and if you only use it occasionally as I do, write concise notes and document your settings for future reference.

The instructions that come with it are awful and useless for the most part so try it out several times on the edges of a few scrap 2x4's. The setup for the door edge and for the jamb are completely different and it's easy to get confused and make a bad (expensive) cut.

Remember that it's just plastic and that you'd be wise to start the router up with the bit clear and untouched, inside the template and away from the door edge. Work slowly and keep the router base sitting flush on the template for even results.

The router bit alone makes this tool an excellent value.

I use this jig for door projects from time to time. It's easy to use but takes a little figuring out as the instructions aren't great.

The included bit is good for a couple doors. Get the carbide bit if you plan on doing several doors.

I have done a half dozen exterior doors and about two dozen interior doors. Worked well for all. Have not had a single hinge not line up.

Can't really complain for it's price. Sure beats freehanding it with a router or chiseling it out. It could use a little redesigning though.

Similar to others...I've been through 2 of these sanders. I'm kind of stuck as all of my dust collection is setup for the PC hookup(why can't we have universal connections on a tool where DC is so imperative, I will never know). Suppose we have to understand that a sander is a continuous use tool and expectations may need to be reduced for longevity. I do woodworking as a side job and I have had other sanders seize up as well.

If you read the Intermediate Woodworkers review, that's my story also. I agree with everything he said. I would add that this Porter Cable sander uses a rubber band as part of the random orbiting action. Also there is a gasket which is applied with basically a double sided tape. Once it comes loose it loses its adhesion. If you buy this sander you should expect to have to replace the pad, gasket and rubber band at one time or another. All and all, a poorly and cheaply designed sander. That being said - when the sander is working it does a very nice job.

I just purchased my third. My previous two lasted over two years each. I am a hobbyist woodworker but also refinish furniture and I estimate I've put 100+ hard hours on each of my previous two. I use dust collection about 80% of the time. I rate this sander's performance at 5 stars because it is agressive and powerful with little vibration and performs its intended duties well. In my experience it outperforms direct competitors' models and has better reliability. I am more than satisfied with the durability and rate it 5 stars as well because the operating cost relative to purchase price is quite cheap - beats hand sanding!

I've had to replace my charger, and purchase two new batteries (8823 Model) (which lasted only 1 year of minor use). I am very disappointed in this product and Porter Cable will no longer receive my business. The batteries should at least be cheaper if they won't last long. Never again...
Porter Cable should be ashamed.

I went to the store to buy a DEWALT 18v cordless drill/driver. When I arrived I foolishly let a Porter-Cable Sales Rep. talk me into buying a Porter-Cable 19.2v Drill/Driver. BIG MISTAKE the drill works fine, the battery life is terribly short. The main selling point the Porter-Cable Sales Rep. had was that he insisted the new Porter-Cable 19.2v Batteries were a new technology in the way they charge and would outlast the DEWALT batteries-WRONG. I SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT THE DEWALT which is exactly what I am doing now.

My last driver/drill was still running strong on the 2 original batteries supplied with the tool. Not bad for 30 months. But in Feb. of 2005 someone stole this tool from my shop. I hope the thief does NOT have the same good luck that I had. The previous reviews indicated to me that the more you use these tools, the better the performance. All of the contractors (including myself) seem to have much better luck than the weekend warriors and the hobbiest crowd. This also seems to fall in line with the typical way that most rechargeable batteries work. I have a "just for fun" Jeep that sits for long periods of time. I've had it for 5 years and am currently on the third battery. My old Makita and old Porter Cable Magnaquench drills also died as I replaced them and used them less. Overall, I don't see a problem for the professional who is looking for a daily use tool. By the way, to ALL of the tools that were stolen from me ,,, I miss you guys. ALSO,, be careful when buying replacement batteries. Porter Cable offers other batteries in 19.2v configurations. I currently have a set with Porter Cable 8923 2.4 a/h batteries. the higher the a/h(ampre/hour)rating, the better the performance should be.They also offer a 1.3 a/h battery that I wouldn't recommend to anyone.

I bought one, which broke after a few weeks, returned it for another one -- Customer service was very pleasant and helpful -- and the second one broke after a few more weeks. They both had the exact same problem, wouldn't hold the bit. Useless. Buy something else. Porter Cable used to be a good name in tools, but this was far below any expectations.

At best its a power scredriver. As a hammer drill it doesn't compare to the Milwauke which I also own. I actually got a second one of these in a combo kit that had a saw that I wanted. And the forward/reverse clutch on that one is shot. Overall I recommend the Milwauke above this one.

I've had this cordless for a few years, and it has some major weaknesses. First, the hammer action is far weaker than expected, even for a cordless. P-C (last I heard) was using the same hammer motor for all 3 sizes(voltage ratings).
Also, I have gone through several batteries. Even bought new,they have fried quickly.I have since heard from other contractor types complaints about P-C batteries- weak, go bad or dead quickly....
Thirdly, even though I use my gun mostly for driving short screws to hang pipes, I'm a plumbing contractor, my high range only slips now, and the low range is starting to go too.
It's not the deal I thought it was for sure.
On the pos. side, it has a good feel, balance and torque that I'll be looking for in my next cordless.

I bought this drill a few years back and was never happy with it. The chuck on this drill is poor quality as are the gears inside the drill. The batteries are okay. And Porter Cable just doesn't make that good a product anymore.
I switched back to Milwaukee and wondered why I ever changed in the first place.
Buyers beware of this drill.

I bought my drill in Nov. 2003, and the performance it puts out is outstanding. It's expensive, but it's worth every penny I spent for it. 2 years ago I paid with tax, $230.00 for one, because I was building a patio room and a deck. The power it possess!!! This drill is so powerful, it will drive 6" to 8" bolts in the wall like childs play. I promise you that you will not be sorry if you purchase this one, it's a keeper. WARNING: Be careful if you're driving bolts, this drill will sprang or break your wrist if you're not careful, and I do mean careful, and that's the only down fall. Battery charging, in 1 hour the battery is fully charged, and it last for, (depending on use) heavy 1 to 2hrs, light use 3 - 5hrs, it comes with 2 Batteries. Plus you can have it repaired if it breaks or if you need a part you can order it and replace it yourself, the info is in the case. So all I can tell you now is go and get one.

It was cheeper to buy this hammer drill with two batteries than to buy just two new batteries. The hammer drill is a nice add to my collection of tools for all my projects.

The pressure switch occasionally will not shut of the compressor. The only way to shut it off is to pull the electrical plug from the wall. There is no consistancy in the amount of pressure it builds. Sometimes 140 PSI and othere 165 PSI. Fifty percent of the time the safety valve blows. I called Porter Cable to send me a new one and they wouldn't. Referred me to a service center 30 miles away. I phoned the service center and they said they may not have the parts for this compressor and may have to order them. So far I am not impressed. I had a CH for 7 years without a problem. My PC is a week old.

I ordered my P-C 3HP/4GAL compressor from Amazon, and their tool supplier, Tool Crib, shipped the unit to me via UPS. When I unpacked the compressor there was a broken piece of plastic in the bottom of the box. After reading the Owner's Manual and starting the break-in procedure I realized the plastic piece was the on/off switch! Using plastic for such a high-use piece like the on/off switch is a very poor design.

I took the compressor to the local Porter-Cable service center and they tell me the boxes the P-C compressors come in are NOT designed to handle the rigorous treatment of UPS shipping. The compressor is very heavy and the support inside the box is just flimsy cardboard, so the unit will shift alot during UPS shipment. The boxes were designed to be shipped on pallets and sold in stores off the pallet.

No wonder the switch was broken. I'm just wondering what other parts may have been damaged in the shipping. Won't know until the replacement part comes in and we can turn the unit on. It's been two weeks now and the replacement switch unit still has not arrived.

Be advised about this shipping problem with this compressor. Your's might arrive damaged also. Tool Crib should know better than to ship these heavy units in flimsy boxes! Luckily the local Porter-Cable service center is willing to fix it under warranty!

This little Porter Cable compressor is all (and more) that I expected it to be. It pumps the 4-gallon tank to 125 psi in less than a minute, and then cycles automatically as the pressure drops. The output should be more than adequate for my needs to run an air ratchet, blow nozzle, hand sandblaster and pressurize a small auxilliary portable tank. The order arrived ahead of schedule with no damage via UPS. Works like a champ, the price was right and Amazon's Free SuperSaver Shipping made this a no-brainer bargain.

The gauges, regulator and hose coupling on this model are out in the open, and exposed to potential damage if used at a busy construction site. A better choice for that kind of a work environment would be the 3HP enclosed, stacked-tank model offered by Porter Cable. The downside to that model is about twenty more dollars, and about twenty more pounds of mass to move around. For my application, however, the exposed fittings are not an issue.